Fun and Easy Amigurumi Book

Before I start with book announcement I would like to use the chance to thank you all for being part of my life for the past three years. Some of you have become my dear friends I always love to hear from.

I am this sentimental and thankful for all I have because in the last month I’ve seen and heard and witnesses sad and heart breaking people destinies, where in almost every second case children are part of it. I assigned myself as a volunteer at refugee camp at Eastern Croatian border, where we welcome, shelter, dress and feed refugees that are on the road for months before they continue their journey for some better lives out there in Europe.

Beside my gratitude to all of you who are with me and come to learn something new or try to find inspiration for your new projects or simply looking for new crochet patterns for your beloved little ones, I would like to use the chance to apologize for my lack of time and attention I give to all of you lately. I need to apologize to my publisher as well, for making this announcement post few weeks to late. I simply didn’t have time to make it earlier.

Once again thank you all for all your love, support and kindness! You are the best and I am one lucky person knowing some of you and having you around.

Now let me say few words about this awesome new book.

Few months ago when Rob Appleboom, and you all know Rob from his fabulous GREATAMIGURUMI blog, asked me if he could use my bear bunny pattern for his book I felt so honored and so happy. Later he needed doll pattern, and that is when I made Lana dolls I presented to you few months ago. Whoo hoo, I thought! Two patterns in my first book!

Isn’t that awesome!?:)

Rob hired magnificent group of designers who did fabulous work putting all of our (amigurumi designers who participated with their patterns in this book) patterns and photos together into one harmonized, happy and colorful book easy to follow for everyone. I am sure you’ll love this book!

In the book you can find:

  • 14 easy to follow patterns,
  • photos and detailed pattern instructions to lead you all the way,
  • beautiful illustrations and colorful pages you will enjoy.
  • awesome designer patterns whose works have been tried and tested over the past few years are presented with new designs.

Some of these designers are:

And finally little preview of the book with links where you can purchase your own copy.

amigurumi page

Cover Page Front

amigurumi-page61

Cover Back

spread page 2 and 3 all dolls

Patterns you can find in the book

For your copy of the book, press the tittle below.

Fun and Easy Amigurumi

Thank you, thank you, thank you …. my dear and beloved friends.

I will try to return soon with some news and patterns for the Halloween. I can show you sneak peak on what I’m trying to finish (but like I said, situation is changed. I will do my best to finish this pattern in time so you can try making one yourself for this year’s holidays).

Little Witch Doll

Sending you all lots of love.

Vanja

One Piece Doll

One piece doll from head to toes!doll finished

As announced few weeks ago, it is time for little lesson on how to make doll in one piece.

There are several ways on how I do it. In this, first lesson will try to show you, which I find, the easiest way on making such doll.

It is started from head and worked downwards.

This simple way can be adjusted and worked few different ways, but this post is on showing you the basics and giving you ideas on what you can do, and how it can be done when crocheting doll in one piece.

I didn’t try to write the exact pattern, but rather tried to show you the way, leaving you to try and work your own one piece doll.

It is very simple and I am sure after reading this post and seeing all the photos you will know your way and will be able to make you doll from the first try.

So how it is done?

As always, you have to have general picture on what size or kind of doll you wish to make. Size is more important, I think, because the size of your doll will determine number of stitches used for the head, arms, body and legs.

Before you start, think of what size doll you wish to make. Try to remember some nice patterns you worked on before or doll’s you liked to make, and based on that, write down these, approximate parameters.

  • how many stitches you will use on widest round of the head,

  • how many stitches you think on working for the arms

  • do you wish your doll to have improvised thumb or you’d like to make fingers instead

  • how many stitches you think on making for the body

  • what shape your wish body to be (oval, cone looking…)

  • how wide you wish your legs to be

  • do you want doll with feet…

Important is to have idea on size of the head compared to the body.

In my case, I like making smaller size dolls (around 25 cm, 9.8”), with big heads compared to their bodies.

I know it must sound to much to think about before starting your doll, and for some must seem pretty terrifying but it is not so.

Imagine your doll, write what you think is important for you and start. Once you’ll have the work in front of you and all those stitches to count and work with, will be easy as breathing:)

You’ll see!

As said at the beginning of this post, the work is started from the head and worked downwards.

Making head

Remember that you’ll need to add all featured on the head before starting to work on neck and further down.

If using safety eyes:

Add eyes as you go. If you are not sure where to place eyes, I suggest you stuff the head first, check how different sizes work with the head you made.

Place them different positions and see where you like them the best. You wish to make nice looking doll, without mistakes, so take your time. There’s no rush to place eyes that will completely destroy the look of your doll. Or to choose different size. Not stuffed head looks different from stuffed one. You are designer now, and you need to decide how your doll will look.

Once you are sure with where to place the eyes and which size to use, take the stuffing out, place eyes on, and stuff again.

Now you have doll’s head looking exactly as you imagined, right!?:)

Head

You can embroider nose and lips. Try to add as many details as you wished there would be on the head.

Done and moving forward.

Make sure head is stuffed nice.

Making neck and shoulders

After you finished with head and decreased to certain amount of stitches for the neck, repeat one or two rounds to make neck visible.

After neck is done, continue evenly increasing each round for that many rounds until you reach, at least, the same stitch count as used at repeating middle rounds of the head (in most cases these are the widest rounds of the head as well).

In my case, those counted 48 sts.

My neck was 12 sts wide. After neck was made, I increased each round evenly (using 6sts increase count) until I reached round counting 48 sts.

Important, when working at doll in one piece, is to plan your stitches in advance. That is why I told you to think before you start, on how wide you wish your body to bee, arms …

You need to know approximate size(s) in order to increase to right stitch count where needed (as in this case was increasing to shoulders width. Shoulder round will soon be divided into three parts. Two for arms and one for body opening.

neck and shoulders

Making arms

We increased to shoulders. At this point, you can repeat this round one or two times. Repeating round will give you nice round shoulders and will keep your arms closer to the body. Will also circle this shoulder part nicely.

I haven’t repeated this round, and later you will see how arms on my doll are flying away from the body. It is charming for such small dolls, but if you prefer arms closer to the body, repeat shoulder round two times before proceeding with making arms.

It is time for some stitch count. Time to mark stitches where arms will be created.

Do not cut yarn . Secure the last stitch while stitches are counted and marked for the arm openings.

Flatten the shoulders or upper body part. Flat sides have to be parallel with front and back face, while corners of this flatten piece will point to the sides of the head.

Look at photos for better understanding.

Now count both sides, of this flattened shoulder piece, even number of stitches for doll’s arms.

In my case. My shoulder round was 48 sts. On each side I counted 9sts (for each arm). Marked them all, for easier crocheting later.

Same way count your stitches, mark first and last stitch of each arm opening.

arms2

arms

As you have marked your stitches for arm openings, start working on first arm, or one where your last stitch of previous round was made.

Now this might sound confusing, but I have to mention it…

Depending on how you flattened the shoulder piece, your last stitch might end up on body opening instead on arm. In that case, make the body first, and then return to finish with arms. Nothing to worry about!:)

Whichever part you make first, or whichever order you choose to do is the right one. You can work body first and then make arms, or in my case arms first then body. You can even work arms at the very end, after body and legs are finished. Marked stitches are there. All you need to do is to work them in rounds, and in that many rounds as wished for arms length.

In my case, arms are done first, so let’s see what happens next.

Continue working where you last round ended and work in rounds. Make sure to connect both sides, or both of the marked stitches for each of arms.

Suggestion:

when connecting sides, I like to slip stitch and pull that stitch a little in order to bring sides very close to each other, in order to avoid wholes where connections are made.

If you choose not to, and wholes show later, you can always sew them closed with same color yarn, so no biggie, just my suggestion.

Once first round is closed and prepared to work in rounds, work as many rounds as you wish for your arms to be long.

Depending if your arms will be finger-less, with improvised thumb or with all 5 fingers made, make sure to make them appropriate size.

I know that many of you will wonder, on how to determinate arm length. I have no idea what to tell you on this one!:) Really, I have none!

And again it depends on what you like, what you wish to make.

I can tell you what I like and how I count most of the times.

Like said, I like heads to be bigger compared to the body. If the head counts 20 something rounds, I like to keep my body few rounds shorter, and at least 3 increasing rounds less wide. Does it make any sense to you? That is when it comes to body.

For example, if my head was 48 sts wide, I like to keep widest body round at 30 sts the most.

If head was 20 something rounds long, I will try to keep body few rounds shorter (that would be 16, 17 or 18).

Arms and legs, most of the times, will try to keep same length as body. This is nice ratio, and you can try working with one like this on your first doll.

Now, let’s get back to our tutorial and see how arm is done and looking so far.

I’ve decided to make hands with improvised thumb.

After reaching the wrist length, I increased one round to fist width and on next round added cluster on the inner side of the arm (or the side closer to the body).

The same way you can make fingers. Sharon Ojala @ Amigurumi To Go has great tutorial on making fingers this way, towards the fingertips which will help you greatly if you decide to make fingers on your doll.

Here is the link with the pattern and video to check it needed

http://www.amigurumitogo.com/2014/02/crochet-doll-fingers-tutorial.html

Arm3

Arms3

One done. Don’t forget to stuff it before making last round and closing. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing last round closed. Hide end inside the arm.

Prepare for next arm.

This time, we have to attach the yarn. I like to add it on one of the stitches on the back side of doll. This way, if I make them “not so nice” they keep hidden on the back😀

Arms4

Once attached and first round closed and prepared to work in rounds, work the second arm same way as first.

Arms5

Both arms are done!

Here you can see how arms are “flying” away already. Missed to make one or two repeating rounds on shoulder (what I mentioned and talked about earlier).

Before continuing stuff head, neck and shoulders well. It will be very hard to add stuffing to these areas later.

Making body

body

Now there is body opening that needs closing and finishing.

In my case, my body opening remains with 30 sts around.

Body2

Whichever stitch count you decided to work with, connect all of the remaining stitches left for the body and work the body desired shape and length.

I decided to work on simple cylinder shape with slight decrease on the bottom. My whole body was made with 30 sts in each round.

I planned to make legs 12 sts wide. In order to reach this count I decreased on second last round to 24.

Count in advance. Know what your leg count will be, and plan your body ending and last round in advance.

Body3

Making legs

Body is finished and some more stitch count are required in next step. We need to make openings for legs, or to divide last round into two openings with same stitch count each.

You can do this two different ways. The most simple way is to count equal amount of stitches each side (and again flatten the body piece, edges facing sides, while flat sides facing front/back of the head).

Mark first and last stitch of each leg and simply continue by working on first leg, or the one where your last stitch on the previous round was made (this way you don’t need to tie off).

Legs hug stitches closure

As you can see from above photo, this way is very simple. Each leg will be simply connected by one stitch in the middle and continued downwards in rounds.

This method is really the easiest, and the most simple one, and I am sure you won’t have any problems making it. The above connection I like to call hugging stitches connection. Nice and easy way to make legs on small dolls with few stitches on each leg.

I decided to work different way. One I like to call bridge connection.

Bridge connection leaves space between legs which is much better for bigger dolls, long legged dolls or dolls you make with more than 12 sts in each leg round.

Let’s see how the bridge is made.

And again you need to count. The bridge will determine how many stitches you wish to increase or decrease for the legs (depending on stitch count you have on the last body round).

How is that?

For example; My last body round ended with 24 sts count.

I like to make legs 12 sts in a round each, but I also want to make this gap between legs.

I decided that 3 sts between each leg is nice gap to leave. That means I have to take off 3 sts on front and 3 sts on the back of last body round (front/back= flattened sides of body piece). Taking off, is working them into bridge and closing them this way so they can’t be worked on when I start on with legs.

So where and how to add those 3 sts back?

We will add them over bridge, making bridge 3 sts wide and 3 sts long.

Wide side is our front and back, but long (depth) side where we will make new stitches for our legs.

This way you can make bridge longer, shorter, wider, more narrow….adding or decreasing stitches this way Hope it makes sense:)

Once stitches are counted, slip stitch to first of your bridge stitches (either side, back or front) and work as many rounds as you wish to add or decrease for your legs.

As you can see, I worked 3 stitches each side, and worked them for three rows.

Legs bridge connect

Once you made your bridge, cut off the thread and sew it over the marked bridge stitches opposite side

Legs bridge connect2

Bridge is done and we can start making legs. At this point stuff the body nice and firm. It is very important to stuff it best possible now. It will be very hard to add stuffing later.

Legs bridge connect3

stuff body

As you can see, I didn’t fasten off the yarn. I used small amount of other yarn for the bridge. This way I tried to keep my work of one piece doll really, as much as possible, one piece.

It also looks nicer not to keep attaching yarn all the time. No matter how neat your work is, good eye can always tell where work was fastened off and started again.

And I like to keep my work as clean and as neat as possible.

Legs

legs2

Whichever way you decided to make your openings for legs, it is time to make them.

Work one leg at the time.

Make them desired length. Decide in advance how you wish to make the feet. Simple cylinder ending, nice round, improvised feet or complete feet with all toes on….

legs3

I’ve decided to go for middle solution, and make nice round improvised looking feet.

I know many of you will wonder how to shape feet working backwards, or from top to toes. Well…you work backwards!😀 And I am not joking!

For example, if you have nice foot pattern you worked on earlier, but worked from bottom up, you can simply use that same pattern to make your foot, but this time using the pattern backwards.

Let’s say your pattern was like this:

(using Fairy doll’s leg pattern)

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

What you will need to do is work backwards and instead of starting at R1, you’ll start at R6 (if your leg stitch count is 9. If different from 9, adjust the stitch count accordingly, it is easy, you’ll see).

In this case your backwards work would look like this:

R1 inc3, sc6 (12)

R2 inc6, sc6 (18)

R3-R4 sc18

R5 (dec, sc) x6 (12)

R6 dec x6 (6)

Hope it makes sense. When working backwards, for increase work decreasing stitch and vice versa.

For small feet, you will never go wrong if you will simply increase 2-3 rounds  over 2-3 sts each, and those stitches have to be centered in the front part of the foot. Will explain it little bit more further below.

To make sure doll’s improvised toes will point front, you need to count stitches again. And again some flattening the pieces.

Prepare your leg for foot making. Flatten the piece, but this time flattened sides, facing body sides, while edges are facing back/front

legs4

This front edge you see on above photo is crucial. This is where increases need to be centered in order to face foot right direction.

For the most simple foot shaping, like earlier said, increase this front edge of doll’s leg by 2-3 sts for two or three rounds. This is the most simple way for all of those who dislike counting stitches by number (not good if you wish to write the pattern though😀 In that case you will have to make sure and count exact number of stitches on each round, as count exactly where these increases will be made. For your first trial, simply flatten the bottom of leg piece like shown on photo above and for each of the next 3 rounds, increase top two to three stitches. This way doll’s foot will grow longer and foot will form.

Once increasing rounds are done, repeat round or two to shape the bottom of your leg before starting to decrease.

legs5

I like to make my first decreasing round in the back loops only. This way bottom of the foot folds nicely and stays flat.

legs6

Before working last decreasing round, stuff leg nicely. Finish last round, tie off and sew last round closed. Hide yarn inside the leg.

legs7a

One leg down. One more to do!

Working on remaining stitches on the body, work them all in round the same way done for first leg.

legs8

legs9

legs11

doll finished

And doll in one piece is finished.

Add her clothes, hair and prepare for playing:)

one piece doll by AmigurumiBB

I know this was very, very long post….hope you enjoyed it and hope you learned something new.

Also hope I have covered everything so you can start making your doll in one piece right away. In case you’re missing any info, please feel free to write and ask.

I will try to make next tutorial on how to make one piece doll from toes to head soon.

Like said many times during this post, think in advance. Plan your stitch count and know what you’ll do next. I hope all the photos I made will help you enough to overcome all doubts when making your first one piece doll.

Looking forward to see your one piece dolls soon. Many of them!

Thank you all for you time with me today.

Hugs,


Vanja

Long hair for Liz the Goth Doll

Long hair pattern for Liz the Goth doll is finished!

Long hair for Liz the Goth Doll

I (think) I’ve sent it to everyone who has purchased Liz the Goth Doll pattern.

Please check your e-mails!

Pattern is  addition to Liz The Goth Doll pattern and and my gift to you.

Wishing you all lots of fun creating short and long version hairs for your dolls!

Vanja

Liz The Goth Doll

As promised my first pattern is finished!

This week managed to finish Liz the Goth Doll. Liz, together with her friends is really lovely (if I can say so):)

Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB

Liz is another of my simple and rather fast doll projects to make.

She comes with changeable clothes and on top of these fabulous features, most of our little ones like playing with, Liz comes with her own little doll. Little voodoo doll. Little voodoo doll is 5 cm (2″) big and goes really nice with little Liz. Pattern is in photo tutorial form you will find together with your Liz doll pattern.

voodoo done bonus by AmigurumiBB

I tried to write this pattern with as many details as I could remember, that I found very important for all of you to make exactly the same doll as you can see on above photo.

You can make one Liz with different colors, changeable clothes or make many different Liz dolls, each in her own favorite color(s).

I am specially proud of doll’s hair style.

For a long time I wanted to make this particular style, and I am so happy I succeeded in making one so easy and so lovely, that I really hope you’ll enjoy.

And this is not all!!

After this pattern was finished I worked on little key chain Liz for my nieces school backpack. She wanted doll with long hair, so I adjusted little Liz’s hair to create longer one this time. This is what I came up with: Little Liz doll by AmigurumiBB Little Liz doll by AmigurumiBB While regular Liz doll is 21 cm (8 inches) tall. This little one, worked in thread and with 1,5 mm hook ended up half original doll size. I smudged and decorated her with crayons, markers and glittering nail polish. 

Pattern for Liz the Goth Doll is available in my Etsy shop and you can find the link right here

I would like to use a chance to announce that I’ll be going to make additional free of charge bonus to this pattern, and it will be the version for long hair, as you can see on little Liz I made for my niece.

For that reason I would like to ask everyone who will purchase the pattern, to leave me message with e-mail address where wishes to receive this long hair pattern. The pattern will be finished by Monday, when I will start sending it.

Few more photos of Liz and her friends…

Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the Goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB

Hope you like this little one! Next week starting with one piece doll explained in details and working on new free pattern to share with you soon.

Wishing you all wonderful weekend!

Hugs

Vanja

Ella The Rainbow Princess

Hello dear friends,

after long and very hot summer, I have returned with Ella The rainbow Doll.

Las week I had friend over for a visit, who came with her 6 year old daughter Ella. After I showed Ella my crocheted dolls collection she had hard time deciding which one was her favorite. So I offered her a deal.

I told her I would make her the most special off all dolls, doll she dreams of. In order to make her wish come true, I asked I gave her colored pencils and markers and asked her to draw such doll. Told her to take her time, to take some time thinking and when completely sure to draw her dream doll.

After a while Ella came with this drawingDSC_0002-001On the left side of the drawing you can see tarantula, while on the right side, giant African millipede is crawling. I keep few of such lovely creatures (many of you will have goosebumps hearing this:) ) as pets, and Ella loved seeing them. She was specially fascinated by giant African millipedes and their size, as well as hissing Madagascar cockroaches who hissed at her every time she came near.

Now I had the drawing and next day had to start making this lovely doll we named Rainbow Princess.

As with starting any other doll, important is to know which shapes to use, where to start, and  to prepare your material in advance.

I finished this lovely princess in one day. It was wonderful experience and so much fun to return to childhood and create something so simple and something so extraordinary and beautiful as Rainbow Princess Ella had drawn. Colors she has chosen, the way she put them together. High heel boots in orange color that were must have…. and so many other details that were so much fun to make.

I remember, when I saw the drawing for the first time, my first thought was “oh, nooooo”… for the open mouth with tongue showing. I was so worried and thought of ways making such mouth without many complications while crocheting.

At the end decided to simply draw the mouth using textile paints and apply them as more as drawing than to fill each stitch with color trying to make them as perfect as possible. At the end it worked nice (so I think).

On what I came up and how I crocheted doll after 6 year old Ella’s drawing is here:

thaa-dhaaa….

DSC_0001

At the end Ella was thrilled with her doll. Do you know what amazed her the most?

Those criss-crosses you can see in front of her dress, and off course, high heels on doll’s boots😀

If you have a little child or grand child and you don’t know what doll to crochet for them. Ask them to draw doll they’d like to have, and simply make one.

Same as your child has drawn in simple way, you crochet that simple. Keep an eye on details and colors. Those are important. If you make or fail the shape of head, or body, or make legs little shorter or even longer, child won’t notice that.  On another hand, don’t forget to add details as fingers, use exact colors on locations your child drawn them, if doll has eyelashes, add them, if there is one single polka dot on drawn dress, don’t forget to make it on your doll too. Those little things are what children won’t forget and will check your work to see if it matches their drawing. I warmly recommend you try this, making a doll or toy based on your child’s drawing. Happiness when they see their dream doll come to life, is priceless.

Really hope you like little Ella The Rainbow Doll. If you wish to make doll based on your child’s drawing but not sure where to start, feel free to write and I will try to help you.

This is not the only project I’ve done this summer. I was not near PC and internet each day, but whenever I had little bit of time (and when it was not hell hot), I did work a little.

In the following weeks there will be several patterns I’ll share for free and sale.

Some of them are:

Flower Fairies

Flower Fairy by AmigurumiBBLiz the Goth dollLiz the Goth doll by AmigurumiBBOne piece dolls work in details( project)…general information will be shared here, but on actual project we will work through FB group.

Will be exciting with lots of news coming up. If you had hot summer, cool down in the following two weeks, gather your yarn, sharpen your hooks and get ready to start the new adventures with AmigurumiBB😀

Thank you all for your time stopping by and reading this post. Hope you’ve enjoyed Ella the Rainbow Princess.

Till next time,

hugs and love

Vanja

Time flies when we work or play… or simply enjoy the life! For the past moth I have been working and playing with my work a lot!

Finally, and yes, finally have managed to finish Flip the grasshopper pattern, one from the series of already started (Maya & Willy), and yet not all finished patterns (ants, hornets…) from Maya the Bee movie.

Finishing the pattern was disturbed and prolongated by various toys I had to make to order, and here are some of them you can see.

Made to order toys by AmigurumiBBLeonardo from Teenage Ninja Turtles and Laalaa from Teletubies are my own creations. With Olaf was running out of time so I took a shortcut and worked based on pattern created by  www.kasiulkoweprace.blogspot.com

Children who received them were over excited and really enjoying their time with new friends. Have to say that Olaf is on his vacations at the sea and is enjoying Mediterranian sun these days:)

Flip the grasshopper patiently waited for his pattern to be done, and finally I’ve managed to finish him today. He ended up as one remarkable toy. I am more than pleased with the outcome.

Flip, The Grasshopper by AmigurumiBB

This is  my second Flip. First one is already at my nieces hands, who was the initiator and has ordered all these characters from Maya the bee movie :)

I don;t think you’ve seen my first Flip finished, so let me  show you

Flip by AmigurumiBB Flip by AmigurumiBB1There is slight difference and variation of colors used in each of Flips made, but this will just give you the idea on what to expect if decided to start working on one of your own.

Working with 2 mm crochet hook and cotton yarn in sport weight, your Flip will end up of some 50 cm (20 “) tall (from foot to top of the hat).

Pattern is edited and prepared for you to download and use. The link you can find here

Violin or better say guitaoline Flip is holding is something I’ve done at the very last minute.

It doesn’t make part of the pattern!

As I have hard times keeping my patterns to myself, and I didn’t have time to write the violin pattern in details, I’ve decided to offer you basic violin shape pattern, I used, and make it possible for all of you to create violin by yourself.

Here is plain violin pattern :

Violin is made from three pieces. Bottom part, cover and neck.

Bottom part

Start with making ch12

R1     sc10, sc 3 in the last chain stitch, continue working around chain, sc9, sc 2 in the               last chain stitch

R2     ch1, to alter the stitch, inc hdc, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc x4, hdc, dc x2, inc dc x3, dc           x2, hdc, sc x4, hdc, x2, inc hdc x2, sl st to ch1 made at the beginning of this round

R3     ch1, hdc, inc hdc, hdc x2, sc x4, hdc, dc x2, inc dc, dc, inc dc x3, dc, inc dc, dc x2,           hdc, sc x4, hdc x2, inc hdc, hdc, inc hdc, hdc, sl st to ch1 made at the beginning of  this round

R4      sc around working in back loops only

fasten off leaving long tail for sewing later.

Cover part of violin

chain 12 and repeat from R1-R3

To make violin sides strong, you can add some cardboard inside. Cut out the shape that fits your violin and place it inside the top and bottom part of your violin. Thread the needle with tail yarn of the base violin part and sew around both part. Before closing add some stuffing. Do not overstuff! You need to keep the violin shape!

violineViolin neck:

R1     ch6, sl st last to first st to create circle and continue working in rounds

R2-R5     sc6

R6          dec1, sc4

R7-R9    sc5

R10       flatten the top round and make two sts across (working through both side stitches of your flattened piece) Make 2 sts. Continue working in rows (ch1 and turn after each row)

R11      inc2

R12-R14     sc4

R15      dec2

fasten off leaving long end for sewing. Roll the top (flattened part worked in rows) and sew it just a little so it keeps this rolled shape.

The bottom of your neck, sew on top of your violin.

Use your imagination to add details. I used toothpicks and beads for string curlers, added tiny little wooden piece to hold the strings on violins top.
Chin holder and pieces you see black are crocheted.

Bow is made from wooden stick wrapped in yarn.

violine2Making violin is fun and I hope you will find this basic pattern useful to come up with some extraordinary ideas and make your violin beautiful and Flip happy:)

Hope you have enjoyed your time with all these news and most of all you will enjoy your time making Flip!
Cover2Hugs to all

Vanja

Colorful Lana Doll(s)

I would like you to meet these lovely and colorful Lana dolls.

Lana Doll

Created this pattern two weeks ago as addition to one book on small crochet toys and dolls (that I will talk about some time in the future). This is one of two patterns I made for this book. The second pattern will show and share with you soon, and both will be available only through the shop. So far you can find it in my Etsy shop.

If you liked BB dolls, than you will looove these little ones. Easy to make, and long lasting! I have tried to come up with

  • the doll that can fit any little girls bag or back pack,
  • durable doll that can be played with for many years,
  • doll that can be washed,
  • doll which can change her clothes/shoes….
  • doll girls will love!

So far, both of my nieces, 4 and 7 years of age love it. Hope your little ones will feel the same!

Lana Dolls1Lana Dolls

Before I finish for today, wanted to mention that Flip from Maya the Bee movie is progressing pretty nice. So far missing only the hat to finish the pattern. If times allows me, he might be finished and pattern shared next week. Fingers crossed!

Here is little preview on how the Flip looks so far.

Flip

Have a wonderful day and happy working Monday tomorrow.

Hugs

Vanja