Long hair pattern for Liz the Goth doll is finished!
I (think) I’ve sent it to everyone who has purchased Liz the Goth Doll pattern.
Please check your e-mails!
Pattern is addition to Liz The Goth Doll pattern and and my gift to you.
Wishing you all lots of fun creating short and long version hairs for your dolls!
Vanja
As promised my first pattern is finished!
This week managed to finish Liz the Goth Doll. Liz, together with her friends is really lovely (if I can say so) 🙂
Liz is another of my simple and rather fast doll projects to make.
She comes with changeable clothes and on top of these fabulous features, most of our little ones like playing with, Liz comes with her own little doll. Little voodoo doll. Little voodoo doll is 5 cm (2″) big and goes really nice with little Liz. Pattern is in photo tutorial form you will find together with your Liz doll pattern.
I tried to write this pattern with as many details as I could remember, that I found very important for all of you to make exactly the same doll as you can see on above photo.
You can make one Liz with different colors, changeable clothes or make many different Liz dolls, each in her own favorite color(s).
I am specially proud of doll’s hair style.
For a long time I wanted to make this particular style, and I am so happy I succeeded in making one so easy and so lovely, that I really hope you’ll enjoy.
And this is not all!!
After this pattern was finished I worked on little key chain Liz for my nieces school backpack. She wanted doll with long hair, so I adjusted little Liz’s hair to create longer one this time. This is what I came up with: 
While regular Liz doll is 21 cm (8 inches) tall. This little one, worked in thread and with 1,5 mm hook ended up half original doll size. I smudged and decorated her with crayons, markers and glittering nail polish.
Pattern for Liz the Goth Doll is available in my Etsy shop and you can find the link right here
I would like to use a chance to announce that I’ll be going to make additional free of charge bonus to this pattern, and it will be the version for long hair, as you can see on little Liz I made for my niece.
For that reason I would like to ask everyone who will purchase the pattern, to leave me message with e-mail address where wishes to receive this long hair pattern. The pattern will be finished by Monday, when I will start sending it.
Few more photos of Liz and her friends…
Hope you like this little one! Next week starting with one piece doll explained in details and working on new free pattern to share with you soon.
Wishing you all wonderful weekend!
Hugs
Vanja
I would like you to meet these lovely and colorful Lana dolls.
Created this pattern two weeks ago as addition to one book on small crochet toys and dolls (that I will talk about some time in the future). This is one of two patterns I made for this book. The second pattern will show and share with you soon, and both will be available only through the shop. So far you can find it in my Etsy shop.
If you liked BB dolls, than you will looove these little ones. Easy to make, and long lasting! I have tried to come up with
So far, both of my nieces, 4 and 7 years of age love it. Hope your little ones will feel the same!
Before I finish for today, wanted to mention that Flip from Maya the Bee movie is progressing pretty nice. So far missing only the hat to finish the pattern. If times allows me, he might be finished and pattern shared next week. Fingers crossed!
Here is little preview on how the Flip looks so far.
Have a wonderful day and happy working Monday tomorrow.
Hugs
Vanja
Hello dear friends,
This week presenting beautiful princess Merida.
Jo Merriman made this adorable doll based on my FairyDoll pattern, and you will all agree, she made wonderful job designing Merida. Thank you Jo for this great idea and pattern you share with us!
Materials you will need to make this doll can be any of your choice yarn with matching hook.
Yarn in flash color – peach or pinkish one will work great for princess Merida
For dress use some petrol green color, darker green or blue, all will work nice.
Bow and quiver make in brown (some leftover yarns will work well) – same color you can use to make Merida’s shoes.
Jo added tiny bits of beige on top of the dress and sleeves.
And orange to make Merida’s beautiful hair.
Darning needle for sewing, stuffing of your choice
2 black beads 4-5 mm round ones for the eyes.
Abbreviations:
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
Hdc – half double crochet
Dec – decreasing stitch
Inc – increasing stitch
Head
(flesh color yarn)
R1 Sc6 in magic ring
R2 Inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8-R12 sc42
R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)
R14-R16 sc54
R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R18 sc48
R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R20 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)
R21 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)
R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)
At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.
R22 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)
Tie off. Stuff more if needed.
Legs & body
(You will need flash color yarn, brown-for shoes, and start with brown for shoes, green or similar for dress)
We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.
Legs and body is the same pattern as used for BB dolls.
Leg1:
Start with brown
R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)
R4: 18 sc
Change color to flash
R5: dec6, sc6 (12)
R6: dec3, sc6 (9)
Stuff the bottom of the leg.
R7-R16: 9 sc
Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.
Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!
Work with white or color you will use for dress.
Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.
Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.
R17: stitch around both legs making 18 stitches count. (18)
R18-R22
R23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)
R24-R25: sc18
R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)
R27 Either change to a separate color as in photos or change to flesh color. Sc6, insert hook in r below (1st pic) yarn over and pull long loop, insert into same sc and create a second long loop into same sc(2nd pic), sc 5. 13sc.
R28. Change to flesh colour if not done in r27,sc 6 invisible dec 1(dec using front loops only) sc5. 12sc
R29 12 sc.
Pic 3 is the completed doll body changing colour at r27 and again at R28..,,
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.
Stuff the body.
Photos below are showing what is done R26-R29
This pic is r27, placing hook into r25 whereas the other is just r below. This one I didn’t dec in R28 and just sc 13 in the last 2 rounds, as you can see I didn’t think it made a difference,
Arms
Start with flash color
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2-R4 sc6
Change color to one used for dress
R5-R10 sc6
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.
Sew the arms on sides of the body, where neck area,
Jo’s tip: use a running stitch of the tan colour at where the hand and sleeve start and about half way up at about elbow
Dress
With same color yarn you used to make the
body, starting at R23
Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R23, ch1
R1 inc18 (36 sts)
R2-R6 sc36
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8-R24 sc 42
R43 sc in front loops only
Tie off hide end.
Bow
In brown color yarn
R1 sc4 in magic ring
R2-R11 sc4
R12 inc1, sc3 (5 sts)
R13-R16 sc5
R17 inc1, sc4 (6 sts)
R18-R21 sc6
R22 dec1, sc4 (5 sts)
R23-R26 sc5
R27 dec1, sc3 (4 sts)
R28-R37 sc4
Tie off leaving long end for closing the last round nicely.
Cut the wire little bit shorter than the bow is. Secure the ends with little bit of tape or glued yarn over wire ends.
Place the wire inside the bow. Fold the piece so it forms the bow shape.
With silver or white or beige color thread make bow string.
Knot it on one side, wrap few times, stretch over the bow from one end to opposite, tie knot, wrap few times.
To secure ends you can either glue them or sew them inside the bow.
Bow made with pipe cleaner:
the bow is a 12inch pipe cleaner folded in half and shaped as a bow. using brown yarn tie a knot near bend, wrap yarn around tight to the end and then back down over knot, next bit a little tricky, sc a row down length of bow to the next bend, wrap yarn around to the end, tie a knot and wrap over knot, I put a dab of glue at both ends has yarn tends to fall off when wrapping, this took a few attempts to correct as it can be a little tricky. the bow string I used some very fine silver thread, tie and trimmed a knot at each end wrapping yarn a few times around the knot for picture effect.
Quiver and belt
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2-R4 sc6
R5 inc1, sc5 (7 sts)
R6-R10 sc7
Ch20 (making belt), wrap the belt around Merida’s waist and sc to first chain stitch made. Tie off , hide ends.
Arrows: place some shaped pins inside the quiver
You can also make arrows with some tiny feathers.
Hair:
For the hair you will need orange yarn, o
ne size bigger crochet hook (than the one used to crochet head and doll)
Piece of cardboard 6 x 9 inc (15,5 x 23 cm),
A piece of paper and scotchtape
Hair cap (or base we’ll use to attach hair)
Work with hook size bigger than used when making head. This will make the cap fit the head nicely.
R1 Sc6 in magic ring
R2 Inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8-R12 sc42
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the cap on the head.
Making crocheted swatch. It is worked in rows. Ch1 and turn after each row.
Ch41
R1 sc40
R2-R17 sc40
Don’t tie off,
Dampen the swatch made, put it on a towel and leave to air dry naturally over night.
When dried:
Unravel the dry swatch wrapping it around the paper and card together lengthways, when finished push one end of the loops together till approx 2-3 inches and place tape over yarn to attach to paper, overlap tape onto paper, remove the cardboard, do not cut loops at the loose side! then I hand stitched a row of small
backstitch across the tape making sure to catch all the yarn. I made a couple of rows over just to make sure the stitching was firm. I attached cap to dolls head then the hair, pin in place from the front then to the back, the row of back stitch acts as a parting guide in the hair, so for mine I placed it over left eye at front going towards middle of head at the back. I then used same yarn as hair and made small back stitches over thread attaching hair to cap. Then cut a few loops at a time, depending on were you attached the hair will depend on if you cut the hair in the middle of the loops or to the side like mine, I left mine loose but the hair could be trimmed once fitted.
Ears
R1 sc5 into a ring but don’t close ring,
R2 ch4 sl st first stitch made, tighten the ring, 1 sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st.
Fasten off leaving long end for sewing.
Sew all parts together and your princess Merdia is done!
Here is mine! I can’t even express how much I enjoyed making her!
Hope this post and our Facebook friends as well as all of you who will come to see this post and leave the message, will encourage Jo to finish what she started with creating other Disney princesses, we can share and make.
Hip, hip hooraaay for Jo!
Thank you all for stopping by and taking time reading this post. Hope you like it. Looking forward to hear from you and see you Meridas soon!
♡
Vanja
p.s.
added .pdf of this pattern under Free Patterns page for your easier download and use.
Hello dear friends. Finally managed to finish the little ones. Dolls were easy, but I promised to make tutorial on easy way to needle sculpt the face and added one more about crocheted doll’s hair that I hope many will enjoy as well.
Since BB dolls were published and the pattern released I have have been asked many times how were different hair styles done. That is why I
made this very simple pattern for dolls hair, where I have tried to explain what you have to look and pay attention to when adding crocheting hair on any doll’s head. That is basics and I hope will help many of you that weren’t so sure about how to start and how to make crocheted dolls hair.
Understanding this basic pattern and making at least two of these mermaid hairs, I am sure you will become familiar and free with trying out some of your own creative hair styles and maybe even free making your own little dolls and patterns.
The pattern on crocheted hair basics you can find under Help pages and tutorials.
There you will also find tutorial I have made as addition to these little mermaids that will show you, step by step on how to easy needle sculpt dolls head to make her smiling.
Today will share simple pattern on how to make your little mermaids. These are very special mermaids! When they are outside the water they look as any ordinary girl, but the second they enter the water they turn into beautiful mermaids enjoying the depths of the deepest seas, swimming with whales and dolphins. Decorating hair with starfish and pearls.
Materials needed:
2 mm crochet hook
DK 100% cotton in flash color of your choice, color of your chice for the hair, swimming suit and mermaid fin/body
4 mm round black beads for eyes
stuffing of your choice
darning needle
glue (optional) for extra reinforcing the hair and top of the swimming suit.
Abbreviations (US terminology used):
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
Bpsc – back post single crochet
Ch – chain
R – round or row
Finished doll size:
Around 19 cm / 8 inches
Head
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8-R12 sc42
R13 inc12, sc30 (54sts)
R14-R17 sc 54
R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R19 sc48
R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)
R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)
Stuff the head nice and firm.
R23 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)
Add some more stuffing if needed, tie off .
Hair patterns of three mermaids
Goldie locks
R1 sc5 in magic ring
Do not close the magic ring
R2 inc5 (10)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)
R8-R12 sc35
R13 *ch13, starting from 4th ch stitch from hook, inc10 with dc sts, skip 3 stitches on the fundamental row (R12), sl st in 4th st* repeat around (before the last ch13 you will have only 3 stitches left, skip 2sts and sl st in this 3rd, repeat chain 13 and 10 inc dc over chain made to finish this row.
Continue stitching single crochet on the side of the hair piece (working towards the top – where magic ring is)
Sc in magic ring, ch23, starting from 4th chain stitch, increase 20 chain stitches with dc; *sc in magic ring, ch10, sl st9 over the chain made* x2
Continue sc on the other side of the hair piece (from magic ring towards the end of the side made), tie off leave long end for sewing the hair on the head, or hide ends if you decide to glue the hair on the head.
Pink curls
R1 sc5 in magic ring
Do not close the magic ring
R2 inc5 (10)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)
R8-R12 sc35
R13 ch3, dc2 in each stitch across
R13 *ch3, turn, sl st to next st* across
When reaching end, continue in this manner ch3, slst next around side towards magic ring,
In magic ring sc1, ch13, sl st to 4th ch stitch from end, *ch3, sl st to next st*…across (repeat 3 times in order to make 3 fringes)
Note: 3 fringes will make pretty mess in front. Yo can make just 2 of them, or you can make them standard way, by slip stitching instead of chaining 3 and sl st. Possibilities are many)
After fringes are made, continue with *ch3, sl st next st* across the other side of the hair piece.
When reaching end, tie off and leave long end for sewing (if you will sew the hair on the head) or tie off and hide ands if you are gluing the hair on the head.
Green braids
R1 sc5 in magic ring
Do not close tha magic ring
R2 inc5 (10)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)
R8-R12 sc35
R13 ch21, sc20 (over chain made), sc to next st on the base (R12) repeat ch21 x2
Skip one, *hdc4 in the next st, skip 1, sl st next, skip one* repeat until you make 7 shells, then repeat ch21-sc20 for the last 3 sts
Sc on the side, stitching up, towards magic ring, make 3 fringes (or as desired) with ch10, sl st 9, finish with sc over next side (towards bottom of the hair piece) tie off leaving long end for sewing or tie off and hide end if your hair will be glued to the head.
Legs (make2)
With color of your choice (one you’ve chosen for your mermaid)
R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)
Change yarn color to flash
R4 bpsc18
R5: dec6, sc6 (12)
R6: dec3, sc6 (9)
Leave long end of your mermaid color (one you used for shoe to sew the flip-flops top or to add top of the shoe)
Stuff the bottom of the leg.
R7-R16: 9 sc
Tie off. Stuff the leg.
Body
With mermaid color yarn.
Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.
R1 Slip stitch to one stitch and stitch around connecting legs with closest two stitches, making total of 18 stitches around
(I always like to slip stitch to the stitch that is closest to next leg, so I can connect legs right at beginning and simply stitch around).
R2 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R3-R4 sc24
Change color to flash
R5 sc24
R6 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
R7-R11 sc18
R12 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R13-R14 sc12
Stuff the body nice and firm. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and head together.
Swimming suit top
R1 sc6 in magic ring (leave about 15-20 cm yarn before making the ring)
R2 sl st last to first st, ch3, dc2 in next st, dc2 to next, ch3, sl st to next st, ch3, 2dc to next st, 2dc to next st, ch3, sl st to starting sl st.
Tie off leaving long end.
Wrap the yarn around middle three times, pulling on every round, in order to make nice bow looking piece.
Then using both yarn ends make a knot on the back side of the bow. Cut them to desired length but enough to tie around mermaids neck and make a little bow.
You can sew or glue this top on mermaids chest.
Fin
Make two little fins from R1-R9
R1 sc4 in magic ring
R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R4 sc8
R5 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R7 sc18
R8 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R9 dec6 (6 sts)
While making second find, do not tie off, but connect second fin and stitch around both making 12 sts
R10 bring both fins together and stitch around making 12 sts
From the next row, continue stitching using back loops only
R11-R12 sc12
R13 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R14-R15 sc18
R16 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R17-R18 sc24
R19 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R20-R34 sc30
R35 *skip one st, 5hdc in next one, skip one, sl st next* around
Tie off hide end. Your mermaid body with fin is done.
You can add some beads or bows or shiny threads over front loops. You can also stitch across in spiral using some nice simple edging pattern. It is to your choice. I left it simple but possibilities are endless, and do not hesitate to experiment and add your own touch to it.
Arms (make 2)
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2-R11 sc6
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the head.
By now all of your body pieces are done, and your head is needle sculpt. Sew all of them together nicely.
Put the mermaids outfit on your doll and she is ready to play with.
I hope you have enjoyed making your mermaid and that you will make at least two of them.
What I hope more is that your daughters, granddaughters, nieces or little girls next door will enjoy them even more.
♡
Vanja
I must say that this is my favorite doll and pattern I worked on so far. This doll is just a treasure. She is soft and so darling. The size I reached by this one (30 cm -12 inches) is little bit bigger than the rest of my dolls but that makes her even more beautiful.
I know many of you will give it a try. Specially moms and grandmothers who grew up with one of these jersey sewed dolls with yarn hair. Here is your chance to refresh your childhood memories and opportunity to crochet one Waldorf inspired doll for your daughters, granddaughters or even for yourself.
Here is the pattern I hope you will enjoy
Isn’t she just lovely? Both are 😀 I really enjoy these dolls and hope you will too.
Thank you for your time.
Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and relaxing weekend to come.
♥
Vanja
I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.
First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then
as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!
At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.
First will show you my Bratz doll.
As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.
Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):
http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi
on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html
This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there). It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.
You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.
Patterns are:
1. Basic Bratz doll body
2. How to create hair from satin ribbon
3. How to connect limbs to the body
Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉
This is my Lolly!
Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.
Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.
Hugs
Vanja
♥
Last week I announced doll I was working on, zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.
In most of European countries, the February is month of carnivals.
“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)
I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course, because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉
All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!
Here is zombi me
This doll was made from my second try.
FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.
Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀
Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.
Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.
Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.
Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.
The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.
Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.
This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but now I know more and will share it with you.
Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.
What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.
Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.
They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.
My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.
Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.
♡ Vanja
This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.
Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.
Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.
Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.
To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. 
As you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.
I have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.
Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).
Materials needed:
Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress
The rest of the doll (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.
Matching hook
Stuffing
Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.
Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.
If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).
Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.
Embroidery needle
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)
Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)
** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)
R – round
Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm
Head
I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.
With yarn in flash color of your choice
Ch6
R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)
R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)
R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)
R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)
R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)
R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)
R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)
R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)
R10-R19 sc60
R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)
R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)
R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)
R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)
R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)
R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)
R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)
Stuff the head nice and firm.
Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck
Neck area
R1 sc18
R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)
R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)
R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)
R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)
R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)
R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)
R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)
R9-R10 Sc60 x2
Forming arms
Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)
R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count
R2-R21 Sc15
Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)
R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)
R23 *dec1, sc1* x5 (10 sts)
R24 Sc10
R25 Dec5 (5 sts)
Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.
Next arm:
Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm
Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)
Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.
I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.
Body
Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.
Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.
R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)
R2 Sc34
R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)
(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)
R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)
R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)
R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)
R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)
R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)
R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)
Change color for panties
R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)
R11-R16 Sc42
R17 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.
First we will sew the body.
Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)
Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).
Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.
Legs x2
Ch6
R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)
R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)
R4-R5 Sc24
R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)
Change color (shoe is done)
R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)
R8-R32 Sc18
Stuff legs nice and firm
Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.
Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.
Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.
Hair
Color of your choice
Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn
Sc5 in magic ring
R1 inc5 (10 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)
R8-R17 Sc40
R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)
R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)
R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)
R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)
R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)
R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)
R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)
R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)
R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)
R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)
Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)
sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.
Pony tails can be made many ways.
We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.
Simple buns (blue haired doll)
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 sc12
R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4-R6 sc18
R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
Stuff the bun well
R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.
Longer buns (orange haired doll)
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)
R2 sc9
R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)
Stuff the first part
R4 inc6 (12 sts)
R5-R7 sc12
R8 dec6 (6 sts)
Stuff second ball
R9 inc6 (12 sts)
R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R11-R12 sc18
R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R14 dec6 (6 sts)
Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing
Dress
Ch29
Sc28
Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)
Dc42
Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)
Dc56
Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)
Sc32
Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)
Dc48
Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)
Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds
Ch2, dc64 x5
Change color
Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around
Eyes and creating dolls face
Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.
To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.
If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.
Crocheted eyes:
With black embroidery thread
Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch
Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown
Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)
Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.
For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.
For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.
Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.
Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.
You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.
You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.
Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.
Place the lips two rounds below the nose.
Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.
Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).
And that it is! Your Moosha is done!
Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.
Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!
♡ Vanja
These three dolls were one of my first attempts when started crocheting dolls. Experimented a lot with different head shapes, hair styles. BB dolls came out of these little ones.
Have ben asked recently more than just few times for the pattern on how to make these dolls. Instead of writing separate mails and sending them, decided to share the pattern for all and make it available as all of my patterns so far.
This one is really easy and fast to do. For those that have tried making BB dolls will see that only the shape of the head and hair is different.
Suggest you work with fine cotton yarns (DK to be the maximum weight to use), together with 2-2,5 mm hook (depending what yarn you will work with).
Dolls are small, only 5 inches (12 cm) tall, and were created as pocket or girl back pack/bag dolls. Ones girls can carry all around.
I don’t have all the photos made to show you all of dolls I have made in such way, but they turn out when crazy colors are used for hair; like green, pink, purple. It gives them this bright and cheerful appearance that girls like very much.
Let us start with the pattern (so you can get started making them )!
Abbreviations (US terms):
R – round
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch (stitches)
inc – increase (two stitches in one stitch)
dec – decrease (invisible decrease or two stitches together – I used invisible decrease making these dolls)
** – repeat what you find between
HEAD
Ch6
R1 Sc4, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain – sc3, 2scin one stitch (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R8 sc48 sts
R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)
R10-R13 sc54 sts
R14 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R15 sc48 sts
R16 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)
R17 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
R18 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)
R19 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)
R20 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
start stuffing the head at this point.
R21 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
Tie off, finish stuffing the head nice and firm
HAIR
In the photos below, I made sample of two same size hair pieces, placing them evenly on each side of the head. You can play and make them differently. You can make one bigger, the second one smaller making hair look as combed on side. You can make one big one on top of the head with pony tails on each side or just one on top of it. It is really up to your wishes, likes and desires.
Here is just a sample on how it goes for you to understand on how to play later.
Hair is done out of two “discs” and two tessels.
Discs (make2):
Ch6
R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue working around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hair piece on the head later.
Tassels
Proceed shown on the photos.
I used an old embroidery thread cardboard, that was about 3 cm wide (1,3 inches) to make a tassels. So before everything cut a piece of cardboard of desired length to use to make tassel.
Once you prepare the cardboard or anything you can wrap your yarn over, wrap the yarn over the “tassel maker” 30 times (less or more… depends on how thin or thick your yarn is or how you want your tassel to look). I wrapped 30 times.
Cut the yarn leaving long end and thread the needle (as seen in photo above).
Now what you have to do is push the needle through the middle of wrapped yarn (close to cardboard you go). Once gone through, make a knot you will tighten when pulling the yarn.
Now take the tassel of the cardboard and make few more knots like this, pushing through the middle of the tassel, making knot and pulling.
Once done, you will see your tassel becoming firm at the end where you have sewed. Now try to push the needle through the yarn on top of the tassel (one you sewed while making knots). make three-four knots on top of it.
Your tassel is finished and ready to be sewed on head now.
If you will find it difficult to follow (because I am very bad describing and specially bad taking photos) please try to google on how to make tassel in order to find instructions for your better understanding.
Once done with all four pieces, pin them all on the head the way you like and sew all around.
In order to make one big piece of “disc” on top of the head, start making the disc as described in above pattern but increase evenly every round by 6,until you make 54 stitches total count. You can add two more rows 54 to finish the piece and make it fit nicely the head.
For one bigger one smaller; start as described in the pattern above, bigger disc make with last round stitch count 48, and the smaller counting 24 or 30 stitches.
LEGS & BODY
Make legs first, then join them together and continue making body.
Leg1:
Start with shoe color of your choice
6 Sc in magic ring (6 sts)
R1 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
R2 *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 sc18
R4 dec6, sc6 (12 sts)
R5 dec3, sc6 (9sts)
Stuff the bottom of the leg.
Change color of the thread and continue with R7.
R6-R15: sc9
Tie off; stuff the leg.
Repeat the same for Leg2
Body
At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together. Fingers/heals pointing same directions.
R16 Stitch all around making 18 stitches around.
R17-24 sc18
R25 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R26-28: sc12
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.
Stuff the body nice and firm.
ARMS X2
Sc6 in magic ring
R1-R5 sc6
Change color
R6-R9 sc6
Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.
DRESS
R1 Sc18 in magic ring (don’t close the ring completely) or stitch over piece of bow or yarn you can tie in front later
R2-R3 18 sc
R4: *inc1, sc2* x6 (24)
R5-R6: 24 sc
R7: *inc1, sc3* x6 (30)
R8-R9: 30 sc
R10: *inc1, sc4* x6 (36)
R11: 36 sc
Change color
R12: *ch2, skip one, sl st* repeat all around
Tie off and hide ends.
Assembling the pieces together
Put the dress over the body and sew head-body parts together. Add some stuffing between head, body so the head doesn’t flop around. Sew on the arms. When done with body, you can start sewing the hair pieces together. Place and pin discs on top of the head. Sew them nicely all around. Place and pin tassels the way you want them to be and sew them nicely.
Designing the face:
Embroider the eyes or if you are using safety ones place them in between rows 9-10 (embroider over round 10).
Embroider mouth right below round 12.
Your new doll is done! Quick and easy, isn’t it!?
I hope you will enjoy making her and your daughters and granddaughters will love playing with her.
Thank you for staying with me!
Wishing you all wonderful weekend.
Hugs to all,
Vanja
