Christmas Elves Pattern

Presenting you the Christmas Elves pattern!

Christmas Elves - AmigurmiBB

My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep around 😀

Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are really looking for one of them I am sure you have already started making some of them. If not, check the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern soon.

For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses in crazy and bright holiday colors.

Less talking and more working!

Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.

I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as many photos as I could take. I know there will be some that will need more clarifications, so please do not hesitate to write and ask.

If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will make correction a.s.a.p.

Christmas Elves

Christmas Elves - AmigurumiBB

Materials needed:

Medium weight cotton yarn:

        • colors of your choice:
          • skin
          • green (in two shades)
          • white
          • red
          • yellow, brown or any other color for the hair
        • 7 mm safety eyes
        • 2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is used for the hat only)
        • red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for lips)
        • needles for sewing the parts together and mouth embroidery
        • textile glue (for the hair)
        • textile hardener (starch)
        • powder blush or oil based crayons to color the cheeks

Finished size: 24 cm / 9.5 inches

Gauge: 8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5 cm). Try to obtain the gauge when working head and body.

Abbreviations (US terms):

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.

pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch. Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch. This stitch is used for making nose.)

fpsc – front post single crochet

R – row or round

* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following after

inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)

dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in order to create 1 stitch)

blo – work only the back loops of the stitch

flo – work only the front loops of the stitch

note:

if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less visible as possible.

Change color on the last stitch of the previous round (having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second color and draw through these loops to close the stitch).

Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.

Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip stitch was made (now making the stitch through both loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the round. When reaching the end and starting new round, skip the slip stitch.

 

Head

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x6 (12 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *inc x1, sc x3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R8, R9: sc x42 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x21 (45 sts)

R11, R12: sc x45 sts

R13 inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x22 (48 sts)

R14, R15: sc x48 sts

R16: sc x8, inc x3, sc1, pop corn st, sc x2, inc x3, sc x30 (54 sts)

R17, R18, R19: sc x54 sts

Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15 leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes in the round below them, centered between both eyes.

R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42 sts)

R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)

R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Arms

start working with flash color yarn

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)

R3: sc x9 sts

R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)

R5: sc x12 sts

R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)

stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff arms light.

R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts

change color to one you will make sleeves.

R10: blo sc x9 sts

R11: sc x9 sts

R12: blo sc x9 sts

R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts

R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)

R17 to R29: sc x10 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.

 

Legs:

start with shoes (make 2)

R1 sc x4 in magic ring

R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)

R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)

R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)

R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)

R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)

R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)

R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)

R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)

R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)

R12: sc x12 sts

pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to make the shoe tip keep desired form.

R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts

R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts

R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)

R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6 sts)

R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)

R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)

R19 ch1, turn, dec x1

R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch. We’ll skip this one on the next round)

R21: sc18

before continuing with edging around the shoe, you might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12 sts round.

Now return to shoe.

R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the last chain stitch

skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the third st.

repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st to third st* around (making 6 star points areound shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn

R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.

Tie off, hide end.

Your shoe is done. 

Here are few photos that might help you understand the shoe pattern little bit better.

Elven shoe - AmigurumiBB

Legs (x2)

working in one or multiple colors

R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on shoe

stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs nice and soft.

R2 to R31: sc x12 sts

tie off. 

Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and sew across. This will make your elf sit better.

 

Body

color of your choice

place legs side by side, both facing same direction.

R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs. Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.

Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet around making total of 30 sts. 

From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few photos on how to connect legs with chain in between. Hope it’ll help!

Connecting legs with 3 chain - AmigurumiBB

R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R4 to R11: sc x42 sts

R12: blo sc x42 sts

R13: sc x42 sts

R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)

R15 to R17: sc x36 sts

R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R19 to R21: sc x30 sts

R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R23 to R25: sc x24 sts

change color to collar

R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

R27: blo sc x18 sts

change color to skin

R28: sc 18 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head together.

Stuff body nice and firm.

Elf Boy - AmigurumiBB

Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: sc x42 sts

R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts

R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)

R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)

tie off hide end.

Elf Girl - AmigurumiBB

Skirt for girl:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)

R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)

R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)

R5 to R10 sc x120 sts

tie off and hide end.

Belt(s):

make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls, but make sure to measure the length and add or decrease stitches accordingly.

To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up and standing in between two loops.

Look at the photo for more details.

Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the bottom and top.

For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I worked with half double crochet across the chain to create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.

Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the body to secure the belt stays in place.

Belt bucket:

work in the magic ring

sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1

close the magic ring

Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.

Glue the belt bucket on the belt.

Bow:

work in the magic ring

ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1

close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.

Hanging bow ends:

ch18, starting from the the 3rd chain st, hdc1, sl st next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch to 1 st and finish nicely.

Hide ends in the back of the bow.

Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew them or glue them on the belt.

Ears

R1: sc x10 in magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic ring. Ch1, turn.

R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

R1: sc x10 in the magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6

ch1, turn

R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4 to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry completely.

Collars:

Boy elf collar:

working on the front loops of R27 of the body

sl st to one of front loop stitches,

*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3rd * repeat around

For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).

*Ch1, sc2*… around

tie off hide ends inside the body

Girl collar:

R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1* ….around (6 petals)

tie off hide ends

edgings on sleeves:

You can try variations.

For boy I used simple single crochet around top round and then attached back loop stitches just made with front loops left on the lower arm part using single crochet again

For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the bottom line.

Hat:

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light green one you can see on girl)

Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one you used to make the doll).

I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to top. You can do either way. Important is to start stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.

On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after decreasing or increasing previous round, next two rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it would be 42. Following round either decrease or increase – depending if you started from bottom or top of the hat).

My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).

R1 to R4: sc x45 sts

R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)

R6, R7 : sc x40 sts

R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)

R9, R10: sc x35 sts

R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)

R12, R13: sc x30 sts

R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)

R15, R16: sc x25 sts

R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)

R18, R19: sc x20 sts

R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)

R21, R22: sc x15 sts

R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)

R24, R25: sc10 sts

R26: dec x5 (5 sts)

R27 to R30: sc5

tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside the hat.

After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all around.

If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24 repeatedly.

Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc remaining stitches.

I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease, all around would look same way.

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.

Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50 stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in rounds.

Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for easier counting the stitches and rounds.

First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round

then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5, followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two rounds of same stitch count again.

From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat only.

For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5 decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches. Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on this half.

After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of the same stitch count.

This way I worked all the way it was possible to count and work decrease on the half of the hat.

Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before closing the last round.

Important is that decreases are at the same part of the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will have time I will try to write down exact pattern for this hat. It is really nice one.

I am also sure that many of you will be able to make such hat without my help.

Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)! That is all the magic there is!

Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th round finished with reverse (crab) stitch.

These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra charm to this little pixie hat.

Hair:

Elf's hair - AmigurumiBB

Boy’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
  • repeat above (ch10) three more times
  • repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

from next round do not chain1 but turn each round. Skip 1st stitch and make decrease (2nd and 3rd st). Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.

R13: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)

R14: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)

R15: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)

R16: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)

R17 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)

R18 (skip 1st st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)

R19: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)

R20: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)

R22 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)

R23: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)

R24: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)

R25 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)

R26 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)

tie off.

Close the magic ring now.

Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second chain hook, sl st3

repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side and bottom to R13 opposite side.

This will create little hairs on the back of the head. Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6 instead of 4. Will look even better than these short ones.

Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange the hairs in front of doll’s face.

Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and fringes arrange the way you like.

You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you prefer.

Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are. Loose and free. They will shape the head and give extra touch to your doll.

Girl’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
  • repeat above (ch10) one more time
  • sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
  • repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row. Ch1 and turn when starting new row.

R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)

R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)

R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)

R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)

R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)

R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)

R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)

R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)

tie off.

Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.

From the photo you can see I worked only the sides. You can work all the way, including the bottom row of back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or make shorter ones.

I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to make for your doll.Elf girl's hair - AmigurumiBB

And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀

I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.

…while my elves were coming to my house from far away North they met someone special on their journey. This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted invitation with great joy.

I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll see him you’ll know why! 🙂Snowman - AmigurumiBB

The more the merrier!

DSC_0035

Regards to all,

Vanja

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Christmas Ornaments Part2

Colleen, our blog neighbor made a wish; as this is kind of a year when wishes are fulfilled (for some at least 😉 ) I decided to add two more patterns in Christmas Ornaments group!

How could I ever forget to make Mrs. Claus!? Or penguin ornament!!!???

Felt so guilty that started to work as soon as I red Colleen’s message! 😀

If there is anything else I have forgotten to add, please, please let me know so we can make them in time!

Like said, Mrs. Claus and penguin ornaments are finished and ready for you to try them out! Easy and fast as previous ones. MrsClaus&Penguins

Ready, steady, go!

Basic ornaments info and head pattern to make Mrs. Claus you can find here

https://amigurumibb.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/christmas-ornaments.pdf

together with the rest of the information regarding yarn, hooks…

Mrs.Claus’s head is made of two parts only. Basic head pattern and hat on which is attatche the hair as well. Make both, attatch one to another and Mrs. Claus will be done in no time.

You can use safety eyes, 4-5mm beads or embroider eyes with black thread.

Here is how hat and hair are made to finish Mrs. Claus

Mrs. Claus’s Hat

With red yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R11 sc to every second stitch (33 sts)

R12 front looks only  ch2 (counts as 1st dc), dc to same st, 2dc in each stitch around, slip stitch last dc to first chain made, attach white yarn

R13 ch2, slip stitch to next stitch, ch2, slip stitch to next…around

Tie off hide ands

 

Now add hair. We’ll add it to the hat, so once hat made, the had will be complete.

 

To back loops of R12, attach white yarn. Through next 12 stitches make single crochets (this will make the front of the hat, right above eyes)

The rest of the hat-hair make: ch8, slip stitch to next stitch, ch8, slip stitch…

When reaching first sc made earlier, slip stitch, tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat to the head.

Design face as snowman, or make Mrs Clous look the way you prefer. I used same facial features as ones used for Snowmen and Santas described in Christmas Ornaments post.

Lady Santa is done 😉

Penguin & MrsClaus Ornaments

Next one is Penguin!

Penguin ornament

We will make same size basic head but this time will work in two colors.

White and color of your choice for the penguin.

 

Before we start, for those that don’t know how to change colors, let me say a word or two.

Whenver I will write “change color” – will count as one sc.

To change color, you will work with working color. Pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over with the working color yarn, pull it through the loop. Having two loops on the hook!

To finish the stitch, now change the color; yarn over new color yarn, and pull through both loops on the hook. Stitch is finished, yarn is changed.

Simple as this!

 

Start with white yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 sc13 sts, change color, sc27, change color (42 sts)

R8 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change color, sc27, change color

R9 repeat R8

R10 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change coolor, sc28

R11 change color, sc3, change color, cs3, change color, sc3, change color sc29

From this round working with not white color only

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff head nice and firm

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Add more stuffing if needed

R17 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing (closing) the last round nicely. Hide ends.

Tiny hat

With red yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 sc6

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R7 *inc1, scx7* x2 (18 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R9 reverse or crab stitch around

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat on the head (or if you prefer gluing, glue the hat on).

 

Pompom on top of the hat.

Made 1 cm wide pompom.

I made mine wrapping yarn over my index finger 20 times. Cut the yarn, threaded the needle, sewed and tightened the middle of pompom. Trimmed it and made it nice and round. Sewed it on top of the hat!

Beak

With yellow or orange yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)

Tie off and sew the beak on the head, right beneath and in the middle of eye section.

Place eyes (I painted mine) in the centers of white section, little bit over beak level (one row upper).

And penguin ornament is done! 😉

 

Wishing you best of time making them! For any help….drop a line!

 

Wishing you lovely end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

With love,

Vanja

Ready for Christmas fever?

I know many of you will say how it is early to even start thinking about Christmas but I had to in order to get all things done before the “fever” starts.

In most of European countries the Saint Nicholas day, december 6th is celebrated and is big event for children, as this Saint is gift bringer (and not to forget all the yummy cookies made for that day). Most of the Christmas fairs all around European main city squares will be opened at this time of year….it is just wonderful time of the year!

For all of us crafters that means lots and lots of work and preparations before December 6th!

Now you can understand how I didn’t start early! I started right on time!

Before I continue with my ornaments would like to add link to Christmas patterns made by my dear blogger friend Serah. She designed little Teddies caring tiny stockings and those are something you should check out (if you already haven’t) and try to make them this year. Here is her link:

http://talesoftwistedfibers.wordpress.com/2013/09/28/naughty-or-nice-free-patterns-for-all/

I have thought of few easy designs do be made. I have to make them easy in order to make them fast so I can finish them in time and prepare the sale during Christmas fair.

As I like to share what I come up with and try to encourage all of you to try making the same, have written the patterns for these little ornaments hopping you will have time to make them for you family and friends or if you a crafter and will sell this year, will have time to make them for sale (if you will like them at all!)

I have taken the photo of my tiny ornaments, placing them on one blue/black coral branch for you to see. Here they are. Some are finished (those hanging) and some are still in progress

Christmas Ornaments - AmigurumiBB - Free Patterns

All are done out of one basic head pattern and then the hats have made all the work. With reindeer is little bit more work to do with the horns but the final result is worth all the trouble.

As you can see there are Santa’s helpers, Santas, Gnomes, Snowmen, Gingermen and Reindeers…

You can use these heads and Little Karlas bodes for example, and make complete tiny dolls if you like to have doll ornaments, instead of just heads. I wanted something little, cute and fast to do so I decided to go with heads only.

The other option what can be done is mixing hats with heads and you will get many more combinations than ones presented here.  If you will have time, play, enjoy making these little ones you kids will love and will make great addition to you christmas tree.

Think we can start with the patterns. Will give you as many details as possible. If you will have any further questions to ask, feel free to leave me message here or send me mail. Will be glad to help!

Materials used:

5 ply cotton yarn in various colors (white, black, green, red, brown light/dark)

Merino wool or any other wool suitable for brushing (for Santa’s and Gnome’s beard)

2 mm crochet hook

darning/embroidery needle

little tiny jungle bells for hats (if you can’t find these, make pom-poms or use bows, beads, buttons…)

4 mm round black beads for eyes

blushing powder (for cheeks)

textile glue (to make everything easier and faster)

5 mm wide satin ribbon

Polyester stuffing or any other of your choice

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet (US terms)

ch – chain

inc – increase, two stitches in one stitch

dec – decrease, invisible decrease

2sctog – 2 stitches together decrease (used on beard only)

sl st – slip stitch

hdc – half double crochet (US terms)

Basic Ornament’s Head

color of your choice, depending what ornament you will make

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R11 sc42

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head.

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R17 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Sew/close the last row and hide ends.

Once you finish the head, and close the last round nicely and clearly, turn it up. The last row will be up (will be covered by hat later).

The eyes are placed in between rows  9-10 (but as you need to turn up the head, last row up, they will sit on the right place. Will be placed on the upper half of the head). This is for those that are using safety eyes. Place the eyes in between rows 9-10, leaving three-four stitches between them

For those that will sew the eyes as I did will be easier. Place the eyes between the second and third middle row (those of 42 stitches count).

With red yarn embroider the nose one row below the eyes.

Embroider or paint the lips and as final touch add blushing on the cheeks.

Santa's Helpers - AmigurumiBB - Free Patterns

Elf’s hat (green top and bottom, white/red stripes)

Start with green yarn

Sc6in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

Change color at the last stitch of the previous row.

You will change it following way. Push the hook through the stitch, yarn over and pull the working color yarn. Now you have 2 loops on the hook. Change yarn color at this point to one for the next row and pull thorugh both loops in order to finish single crochet stitch. Continue with next row. In the same way, continue changing the yarn color at every row.

R3-R18 sc6 (changing color at each row from R3-R37)

R19 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R20 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R21 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R22 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R23 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R24 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)

R25 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R26 *inc1, sc9* x2 (22 sts)

R27 *inc1, sc10* x2 (24 sts)

R28 *inc1, sc11* x2 (26 sts)

R29 *inc1, sc12* x2 (28 sts)

R30 *inc1, sc13* x2 (30 sts)

R31 *inc 1, sc14* x2 (32 sts)

R32 *inc1, sc15* x2 (34 sts)

R33 *inc1, sc16* x2 (36 sts)

R34 *inc1, sc17* x2 (38 sts)

R35 *inc1, sc18* x2 (40 sts)

R36 *inc1, sc19* x2 (42 sts)

R37 *inc1, sc20* x2 (44 sts) change color to green at last stitch

R38-R40 sc44 following way (one stitch back loop, next one front loop. Work this way for entire row. Overlap the bl/fl for the next two rows as well. If you start with back loop at the first row (R38) start every following row (39 & 40) with back loop stitch as well.

If this seems to complicated, stitch the last three rows in plain single crochet through both loops.

Elf’s Star collar

sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

*sc1, ch5, starting at the second chain from hook sl st1, sc1, hdc2, slip stitch to next stitch* repeat until all 5 points of the star are made. Tie off, hide ends and sew or glue on the bottom of Elf’s head. Decorate with glitter, beads or anything you like.

Snowmen Ornaments - AmigurumiBB - Free Patterns

Black Snowman’s hat

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 inc10 (20 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x10 (30 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x10 (40 sts)

R5 work blo sc40

R6-R7 sc40

R8 *dec1, sc6* x5 (35 sts)

R9-R11 sc35

R12 *dec1, sc5* x5 (30 sts)

R13-R15 sc30

R16 work flo *inc1, sc1* x15 (45 sts)

R17 sc45

R18 *inc1, sc2* x15 (60 sts)

Tie off hide end.

For hat decoration I used white/red twisted yarn pieces I placed under tiny crocheted wreath I made by making  8 sc in magic ring, slip stitched last to first stitch and tried not to close the ring to tight.

You can use beads, buttons, glitters, bows…play a little and experiment. Decorate the smiling snowman the way you like.Santa and Nisser Ornaments - amigurumiBB - Free Patterns

Santa’s hat

White yarn (I used Red Heart, Soft Merino yarn, but any yarn you can brush later or one that will give you fuzzy effect will work fine)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Change to red yarn

R4-R5 sc6

R6 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R7 sc8

R8 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R9 sc10

R10 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R12 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R13 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)

R14 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R15 *inc1, sc9* x2 (22 sts)

R16 *inc1, sc10* x2 (24 sts)

R17 *inc1, sc11* x2 (26 sts)

R18 *inc1, sc12* x2 (28 sts)

R19 *inc1, sc13* x2 (30 sts)

R20 *inc 1, sc14* x2 (32 sts)

R21 *inc1, sc15* x2 (34 sts)

R22 *inc1, sc16* x2 (36 sts)

R23 *inc1, sc17* x2 (38 sts)

R24 *inc1, sc18* x2 (40 sts)

R25 *inc1, sc19* x2 (42 sts)

R26 *inc1, sc20* x2 (44 sts)

Change color to white

R27-R29 sc44 sts

Tie off, hide ends and brush well top of the hat and bottom edge.

Santa’s/Gnome’s Beard

ch17

we are making  rows here, don’t forget to chain one before turning

R1-R2 sc16

R3 2sctog, sc12, 2sctog (14 sts)

R4 sc14

R5 2sctog, sc10, 2sctog (12 sts)

R6 sc12

R7 2sctog, sc8, 2sctog (10 sts)

R8 sc10

R9 2sctog, sc6, 2sctog (8 sts)

R10 sc8

R11 2sctog, sc4, 2sctog (6 sts)

R12 sc6

R13 2sctog, sc2, 2sctog (4 sts)

R14 sc4

R15 2sctog x2 (2 sts)

R16 sc2

R17 2sctog (1st)

R18 sc1 (tie off)

Gnome’s Nose

sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

add some stuffing

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

R4 flatten the piece and stitch through both sides (should make 2sc). Tie of leaving long end for sewing.

Instead of embroidering the nose, sew this one on the Gnome’s had.

Gnome’s hat – longer

In order to make gnome’s hat longer, what you will do is repeat each increased row. For example, if you increased working row is 8 sc, the next one you won’t increase, but will repeat same stitch count.

I suggest increasing+repeat way, maximum reaching stitch count 20 (otherwise the hat will be too long), then continue with increasing each line (as written in the pattern for Santa’s hat)

Gnome’s hat has no fuzzy edges, so make it all one colored. Add one or two extra rows at the end so the hat falls more over Gnome’s eyes.

Rudolf the Raindeer - AmigurumiBB - Free Patterns

Reindeer

Horns

 

Tiny Side Horns x2

sc4 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc4

Tie off

Top horn to start with:

Sc4 in magic ring

R1-R3 sc4

R4 sc2 attaching one of the smaller horns previously made (stitch through the loose horn and working horn), sc2 (on the working horn) (4 sts)

R5 sc2 (recently attached horn only),  sc2 working horn (4 sts)

R6 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (attaching the third horn-again stitch through both, lose horn and working piece) (6 sts)

R7 sc5, sc3 (work the stitches attached horn only) (8 sts)

R8 sc8

R9 *dec1, sc2* x2 (6 sts)

R10-R11 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing

Ears x2

leave long end here, when starting the chain

for sewing the ear on the head later Ch5

Starting as second chain from the hook: slst1, sc1, hdc1, 3hdc in last stitch, work around chain, hdc1, sc1, slst1

Tie off. To secure the knot at the end of the ear piece, I like to add drop of glue or drop of clear nail polish (this way don’t have to hide the end and ear finish with nice pointy look)

Nose

Ch4

R1 sc2, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain, sc1, inc1 (8 sts)

R2 inc1, sc1, inc3, sc1 inc2 (14 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc2, *inc1, sc1* x2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1, inc1 (20)

R4-R6 sc20

Tie off, stuff, pin and sew onto head.

On top, with red yarn and embroidery or darning needle embroider red nose.Gingermen Heads - AmigurumiBB - Free Patterns

GingerMen heads are just in addition to all above! One is using Santa’s hat. Girl has Elf’s collar. You can really use many different variations.

The bows used are done:

ch6

R1-22 sc5

Tie off, sew ends together. Use yarn to wrap around middle in order to create bow.

or

ch23

R1-R6 sc22 (changing colors as desired)

Tie off, sew the ends, create the bow.

And that is it!

Now we can all start making ornaments!

Wishing you all the  happiest weekend!

Love to everyone,

Vanja