Waldorf Inspired Baby Doll

After almost one moth of break from new posts, returning with, I hope, lovable gift to you all.

New crochet addition to all Waldorf admirers.

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBB

Simple testing the head for this pattern has taken our little Facebook group into wonderful doll making adventure. Many new ideas opened and new patterns were created. 25 wonderful and kind ladies have applied to test the pattern. Those that finished came up with the most adorable little princess dolls 🙂 Some we still wait to finish their projects. If ladies agree I will post their photos for all of you to see.

What I am specially satisfied that not matter which weight yarn or size hook was used, the pattern worked well for all.

For the first time we have tried joining limbs with cotter pins, and making joints with whatever we could find at home. Instead of original discs, washers and cotter pins, we mounted cotter pins over buttons, and if cotter pins were not available, wire or paper clips were used. Please feel free to check on home made options on joints. Few photos and how the joints are done I have added HERE

My baby grew to little girl very fast. It is amazing how fast the kids grow these days!!! 🙂 Like mushrooms after the rain. One day I saw her bald and crying and the next one she asked for her hair to be done!

Waldorf Inspired baby by AmigurumiBB

The next day her friend showed ….

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBBKids!!!

🙂

The pattern is pretty long.

Pattern has several additions. I will try to explain what each of them will bring and you cna choose from.

Basic Waldorf Inspired Baby includes instructions on how to crochet baby’s body from head to toe.

This is what you will get with the basic Walsdorf Inspired Baby pattern:

Waldorf Inspired BabyThe pattern can be found and downloaded HERE

During testing the pattern, one of tester ladies and my dear friend wanted to make baby with open mouth, or the mouth baby can place her finger in, pacifier or baby bottle. Based on Waldorf’s baby head she made adjustments and came up with open mouth head which is absolute must have. I warmly recommend everyone to try this technique not just for this baby head, but for any of your baby heads in the future. Thanks to wonderful friend and generous and kind TB Cess, this pattern we can share as addition to basic Waldorf Baby.

Head with open mouth looks like this:

Waldorf Inspired Baby with open mouthand you can open and download it HERE

This head required more bent arms, so the hand and sucking finger can reach the mouth easily. For that reason I adjusted and added one more pattern for arms. Called it Sucking finger arms. You can make each arm different and still keep the same size and proportion of your baby. Rounds on both arms (one you can find in basic pattern and this one) are equal. The only difference is thumb crocheted separately and added later to position you prefer and position that matches baby’s mouth the best, and this arm is bent little bit more in the elbow.

Sample on these arms you can see here:

DSC_0003Pattern can be viewed and downloaded from HERE

Hair for Waldorf doll’s I made and I always make following Beth Webber’s photo tutorial. This is the best one on the web  I have encountered so far and all of you who are following me for long time by now, know that I keep repeating myself and suggesting By Hook By Hand blog any time I can, because Beth always inspires  me  with her doll creations. Her patterns and tutorials are easy to follow and yet all are masterly made.

Photo tutorial on how to make wig for your doll you can find HERE

Following this tutorial I have made simple wig cap, and here are few details.

DSC_0004DSC_0002DSC_0003What I have said to the ladies who tested the pattern, when working on the wig, so will tell you too. Same as with crochet work, in wig making and waving the hairs on, you have right and wrong side. While following Beth’s tutorial, pay attention on how the hairs are waved to the wig. It makes huge difference later. If you will need more help regarding this, please feel free to ask and I will make a short post, showing you through photos what exactly to pay attention to.

At the end what is left are the clothes.

Clothes are crocheted in No.5 thread and still using 2 mm hook. Writing pattern for babies clothes and making it perfect to fit everyone, if you ask me, is the hardest part for most of us who write patterns wishing the pattern will work the same for all.

For that reason I tried to make pattern(s) easy enough so each and every one of you can adjust the stitch count based on yarn and hook used. Important is to work with lighter yarn and adjust the stitch count accordingly. By any chance don’t try crocheting clothes with same weight yarn as doll was made of, or even worse, using heavier one. Clothes needs to be light and fluffy. For this doll I have tried to keep clothes old fashioned.

Created little girlish top,

DSC_0005DSC_0006Nice little pants that can fit the baby even if she wears diapers on,DSC_0007DSC_0008and sock looking booties.
DSC_0009All are very, very easy to make. You can view them or download them HERE

Little by little we came to the end 🙂 I hope I haven’t missed anything.

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new baby pattern, and even more I hope you will enjoy every second while making one.

For any questions, please feel free to write and ask.

Wishing you all happy, relaxing and blessed weekend.

Vanja

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Bunny Babies and other Easter additions….

Can you believe I haven’t shared any new pattern in 2015?

This year started with amigurumi lessons (and there are still more than few coming), and even though I worked on my new patterns all these time, haven’t found time to share them here. Have to break that “magic circle”!

Easter is month ahead but I think, it’s not too early to start with preparing and sharing something cute for that occasion.

Bunny Babies! Ta-daah!

Bunny Babies by AmigurumiBB aWhen making these bunnies I really felt as making baby toy, so they ended up as Bunny Babies and are suitable for nursery rooms and baby showers, so not necessarily Easter toy to make. If making as baby toy, stay alert when adding eyes. I suggest to embroider ones, if baby will play with toy (and skip the ribbon).

Bunny Baby by AmigurumiBBBunny Babies by AmigurumiBBPattern for these lovable Bunny Babies you can find under Free Patterns Page, or direct link here

I’ve also prepared two more Easter patterns:

Colorful Easter Eggs

Colorful Easter Eggs by AmigurumiBBand fun and playful Dixie Chick

Dixie Chick by AmigurumiBB

Dixie Chick

Both of these two patterns, for the first time, I offered for sale and you can find them in my Etsy Shop

If you feel as buying me cup of coffee or skein of yarn, please feel free to visit the shop.

Thank you for stopping by and taking time to read this post.

Hope you like new patterns and will find something for you and your loved ones.

Wishing you all wonderful Friday and happy, blessed weekend to come!

Vanja

Christmas Elves Pattern

Presenting you the Christmas Elves pattern!

Christmas Elves - AmigurmiBB

My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep around 😀

Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are really looking for one of them I am sure you have already started making some of them. If not, check the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern soon.

For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses in crazy and bright holiday colors.

Less talking and more working!

Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.

I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as many photos as I could take. I know there will be some that will need more clarifications, so please do not hesitate to write and ask.

If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will make correction a.s.a.p.

Christmas Elves

Christmas Elves - AmigurumiBB

Materials needed:

Medium weight cotton yarn:

        • colors of your choice:
          • skin
          • green (in two shades)
          • white
          • red
          • yellow, brown or any other color for the hair
        • 7 mm safety eyes
        • 2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is used for the hat only)
        • red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for lips)
        • needles for sewing the parts together and mouth embroidery
        • textile glue (for the hair)
        • textile hardener (starch)
        • powder blush or oil based crayons to color the cheeks

Finished size: 24 cm / 9.5 inches

Gauge: 8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5 cm). Try to obtain the gauge when working head and body.

Abbreviations (US terms):

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.

pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch. Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch. This stitch is used for making nose.)

fpsc – front post single crochet

R – row or round

* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following after

inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)

dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in order to create 1 stitch)

blo – work only the back loops of the stitch

flo – work only the front loops of the stitch

note:

if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less visible as possible.

Change color on the last stitch of the previous round (having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second color and draw through these loops to close the stitch).

Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.

Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip stitch was made (now making the stitch through both loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the round. When reaching the end and starting new round, skip the slip stitch.

 

Head

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x6 (12 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *inc x1, sc x3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R8, R9: sc x42 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x21 (45 sts)

R11, R12: sc x45 sts

R13 inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x22 (48 sts)

R14, R15: sc x48 sts

R16: sc x8, inc x3, sc1, pop corn st, sc x2, inc x3, sc x30 (54 sts)

R17, R18, R19: sc x54 sts

Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15 leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes in the round below them, centered between both eyes.

R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42 sts)

R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)

R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Arms

start working with flash color yarn

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)

R3: sc x9 sts

R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)

R5: sc x12 sts

R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)

stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff arms light.

R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts

change color to one you will make sleeves.

R10: blo sc x9 sts

R11: sc x9 sts

R12: blo sc x9 sts

R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts

R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)

R17 to R29: sc x10 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.

 

Legs:

start with shoes (make 2)

R1 sc x4 in magic ring

R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)

R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)

R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)

R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)

R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)

R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)

R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)

R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)

R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)

R12: sc x12 sts

pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to make the shoe tip keep desired form.

R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts

R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts

R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)

R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6 sts)

R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)

R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)

R19 ch1, turn, dec x1

R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch. We’ll skip this one on the next round)

R21: sc18

before continuing with edging around the shoe, you might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12 sts round.

Now return to shoe.

R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the last chain stitch

skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the third st.

repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st to third st* around (making 6 star points areound shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn

R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.

Tie off, hide end.

Your shoe is done. 

Here are few photos that might help you understand the shoe pattern little bit better.

Elven shoe - AmigurumiBB

Legs (x2)

working in one or multiple colors

R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on shoe

stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs nice and soft.

R2 to R31: sc x12 sts

tie off. 

Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and sew across. This will make your elf sit better.

 

Body

color of your choice

place legs side by side, both facing same direction.

R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs. Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.

Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet around making total of 30 sts. 

From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few photos on how to connect legs with chain in between. Hope it’ll help!

Connecting legs with 3 chain - AmigurumiBB

R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R4 to R11: sc x42 sts

R12: blo sc x42 sts

R13: sc x42 sts

R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)

R15 to R17: sc x36 sts

R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R19 to R21: sc x30 sts

R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R23 to R25: sc x24 sts

change color to collar

R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

R27: blo sc x18 sts

change color to skin

R28: sc 18 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head together.

Stuff body nice and firm.

Elf Boy - AmigurumiBB

Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: sc x42 sts

R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts

R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)

R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)

tie off hide end.

Elf Girl - AmigurumiBB

Skirt for girl:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)

R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)

R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)

R5 to R10 sc x120 sts

tie off and hide end.

Belt(s):

make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls, but make sure to measure the length and add or decrease stitches accordingly.

To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up and standing in between two loops.

Look at the photo for more details.

Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the bottom and top.

For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I worked with half double crochet across the chain to create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.

Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the body to secure the belt stays in place.

Belt bucket:

work in the magic ring

sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1

close the magic ring

Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.

Glue the belt bucket on the belt.

Bow:

work in the magic ring

ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1

close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.

Hanging bow ends:

ch18, starting from the the 3rd chain st, hdc1, sl st next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch to 1 st and finish nicely.

Hide ends in the back of the bow.

Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew them or glue them on the belt.

Ears

R1: sc x10 in magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic ring. Ch1, turn.

R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

R1: sc x10 in the magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6

ch1, turn

R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4 to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry completely.

Collars:

Boy elf collar:

working on the front loops of R27 of the body

sl st to one of front loop stitches,

*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3rd * repeat around

For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).

*Ch1, sc2*… around

tie off hide ends inside the body

Girl collar:

R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1* ….around (6 petals)

tie off hide ends

edgings on sleeves:

You can try variations.

For boy I used simple single crochet around top round and then attached back loop stitches just made with front loops left on the lower arm part using single crochet again

For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the bottom line.

Hat:

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light green one you can see on girl)

Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one you used to make the doll).

I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to top. You can do either way. Important is to start stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.

On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after decreasing or increasing previous round, next two rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it would be 42. Following round either decrease or increase – depending if you started from bottom or top of the hat).

My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).

R1 to R4: sc x45 sts

R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)

R6, R7 : sc x40 sts

R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)

R9, R10: sc x35 sts

R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)

R12, R13: sc x30 sts

R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)

R15, R16: sc x25 sts

R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)

R18, R19: sc x20 sts

R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)

R21, R22: sc x15 sts

R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)

R24, R25: sc10 sts

R26: dec x5 (5 sts)

R27 to R30: sc5

tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside the hat.

After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all around.

If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24 repeatedly.

Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc remaining stitches.

I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease, all around would look same way.

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.

Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50 stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in rounds.

Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for easier counting the stitches and rounds.

First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round

then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5, followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two rounds of same stitch count again.

From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat only.

For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5 decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches. Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on this half.

After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of the same stitch count.

This way I worked all the way it was possible to count and work decrease on the half of the hat.

Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before closing the last round.

Important is that decreases are at the same part of the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will have time I will try to write down exact pattern for this hat. It is really nice one.

I am also sure that many of you will be able to make such hat without my help.

Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)! That is all the magic there is!

Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th round finished with reverse (crab) stitch.

These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra charm to this little pixie hat.

Hair:

Elf's hair - AmigurumiBB

Boy’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
  • repeat above (ch10) three more times
  • repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

from next round do not chain1 but turn each round. Skip 1st stitch and make decrease (2nd and 3rd st). Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.

R13: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)

R14: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)

R15: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)

R16: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)

R17 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)

R18 (skip 1st st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)

R19: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)

R20: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)

R22 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)

R23: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)

R24: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)

R25 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)

R26 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)

tie off.

Close the magic ring now.

Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second chain hook, sl st3

repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side and bottom to R13 opposite side.

This will create little hairs on the back of the head. Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6 instead of 4. Will look even better than these short ones.

Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange the hairs in front of doll’s face.

Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and fringes arrange the way you like.

You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you prefer.

Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are. Loose and free. They will shape the head and give extra touch to your doll.

Girl’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
  • repeat above (ch10) one more time
  • sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
  • repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row. Ch1 and turn when starting new row.

R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)

R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)

R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)

R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)

R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)

R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)

R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)

R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)

tie off.

Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.

From the photo you can see I worked only the sides. You can work all the way, including the bottom row of back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or make shorter ones.

I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to make for your doll.Elf girl's hair - AmigurumiBB

And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀

I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.

…while my elves were coming to my house from far away North they met someone special on their journey. This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted invitation with great joy.

I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll see him you’ll know why! 🙂Snowman - AmigurumiBB

The more the merrier!

DSC_0035

Regards to all,

Vanja

Coming soon…

Here is preview of the pattern I am working on at the moment.

Christmas Elves

Christmas Elves - AmigurumiBB

Few more details to finish and if all goes well, as planned will share the pattern in few days.

Finished size of these elves made in cotton DK and with 2 mm crochet hook is 24 cm (9.5 inches) -without hat. What is special and new in this pattern are two different hair styles you will learn.

Hope you like them so far! 🙂

See you in few days with the patter and more photos to show.

Wishing you all wonderful Friday!

Vanja

Step by Step photo tutorial on how to make a Fairy Doll

I have been asked a lot recently to teach and show how to make a doll. Was thinking of easiest way to do that and decided to make this photo tutorial and try to explain in details how this little doll is made. Pattern itself is very easy, but took me week of work, taking photos, painting and preparing for easy to follow HowTo you can find and download here.

Hope you will like it and find it useful.

Let me explain what you can find in each of these tutorials.

Part 1. – Head and body – Basic FairyDoll pattern in written and photo form. Photos tried to take on parts I thought, beginner might find difficult to understand. This part includes doll’s head, body, arms, dress and sewing parts together. All I know and how I work is explained inside. How to attach arms and much more.

Part 2. – Hair – this HowTo is following Easy Way To Make Fairy’s Hair. Step by step photos and description on how to crochet and make your doll hair beautiful

Part 3. – Painting Eyes – This part many have been waiting for since last year, when my first Fairies were released. Finally I made it 🙂 Step by step instructions on how to paint your dolls eyes. Addition to eyes, I added tips and trick on how to  add color on your doll’s cheeks and lips. One thing I forgot to add to this part and are designs I made for you to follow when paining eyes. Will add this photo with several eye designs under Help Page, so don’t forget to download that one as well.

And that is it, was lot of work from my side and is you turn to try and make your doll. 🙂

For any help and questions you might have, please feel free to write and ask. Most of the time I try to answer within few days, but lately was in delay sending replies to your mails. Please forgive me. Thank you for your patience. Will answer to each and every one during next few days.

Have fun making your doll(s) and don’t forget to send me photos of your work or share it with me and my friends on Facebook.

For now leaving you with two photos of doll I made while preparing this tutorial. She ended up so nice! I love those fairies!

You will also find the front pages of each of three  tutorial parts. Under each one is direct link to .pdf file from where you can save it to you computer.

Happy crocheting dear friends!

Wishing you all happy and blessed weekend

Vanja

Fairy doll Fairy doll Fairy HowTo Part1 Head and Body Fairy HowTo Part1 Head and Body Fairy HowTo Part2 Hair Fairy HowTo Part2 Hair Fairy HowTo Part3 Painting Eyes Fairy HowTo Part3 Painting Eyes

Pammy the Piglet

And again we have little treat from our Facebook group. I try to encourage and post free patterns done by dear friends and amigurumi enthusiasts who make these for pleasure and fun. If you remember first one we shared this way was little Bianchina by Stefania Bianchi. She was accepted great and there are many Bianchina projects finished and photos shared on Facebook what makes me so happy. Really hope Stefania will come up with some new pattern we can share soon.

This time I can proudly present little Pammy the Piglet made by NVkatherine from Vietnam. This is her third free pattern. She also makes video tutorials of her projects and I will share you her links so you can visit and see her work.

She was very kind to offer this pattern to be presented and shared in my blog and I feel very honored and happy I have this blog and all of you dear friends who follow to share this little one with.

So here it is, little Pammy the Piglet:

pammy_the_piglet__free_pattern___tutorial__by_nvkatherine-d7mbvwt

PATTERN:

Abbreviations:

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

inc = increase (a.k.a. 2sc in 1st)

dec = decrease (a.k.a. sc2tog)

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only

FO = fasten off

 

HEAD

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 1sc in each st around [24]

6. 3sc, 1inc [30]

7. 4sc, 1inc [36]

8. 5sc, 1inc [42]

9. 1sc in each st around for 5 rows [42]

10. 5sc, 1dec [36]

11. 4sc, 1dec [30]

12. 3sc, 1dec [24]

~> Add safety eyes between row 9 and 10, 11 stitches apart.

13. 2sc, 1dec [18]

14. 1sc, 1dec [12]

15. dec around [6]

FO. Leave a long tail to sew up the gap.

 

BODY

*With white yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 3sc, 1inc [30]

6. 1sc in each st around for 3 rows [30]

*Change to pink*

7. 4sc, 1dec [25]

8. 1sc in each st around [25]

9. 3sc, 1dec [20]

10. 1sc in each st around [20]

11. 2sc, 1dec [15]

12. 3sc, 1dec [12]

FO. Leave a long tail to connect the body to the head.

 

LEGS

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [18]

5. 4sc, 1dec [15]

6. 1sc in each st around [15]

7. 3sc, 1dec [12]

8. 2sc, 1dec [9]

9. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [9]

FO. Leave long tails to sew the legs onto the body.

 

ARMS

*With pink yarn*

1. 7sc in the magic ring [7]

2. 1sc in each st around for 10 rows [7]

F/O. Leave long tails to sew both arms onto the body.

 

NOSE

*With pink*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 2sc, 1inc [16]

4. sc around in BLO [16]

5. sc around normally [16]

F/O. Leave long tail to sew onto the face.

 

EARS

1. 4sc in the magic ring [4]

2. 1sc, 1inc [6]

3. 1dec, 4inc [9]

4. 1inc, 2sc [12]

5. 3sc, 1inc [15]

6. 4sc, 1inc [18]

7. 1sc, 1dec [12]

8. dec around [6]

Sl st into next st and F/O. Leave long tails to sew the ears onto the head.

 

TAIL

1. ch6

2. 1inc across starting from the second chain from the hook [10]

F/O. Leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

NOTE: After sewing on everything, you can add decorations onto your pig. It’s totally up to you! ^^

 

For complete video tutorial on how to make your Pammy the Piglet, please fee free to visit Youtube and watch the vide NVkatherine made for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6tGSbjx0Co

Pammy the Piglet by NVkatherine

For all questions, likes and anything else you would like to find about designer and her patterns you can find her on these two links:

Devianart:

http://nvkatherine.deviantart.com/art/Pammy-the-Piglet-FREE-PATTERN-TUTORIAL-460769357

Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/vi.lenguyennhat

 

So what do you think? Isn’t this one so adorable that you feel like making one for yourself?

Hope you have enjoyed. Thank you for staying with me and little Pammy  the Piglet.

Hugs

Vanja

Designed by NVkatherine2014

This is originally designed by NVkatherine so please do NOT claim this pattern yours. Don’t repost the pattern any where or sell it. You may sell the finished dolls but please give NVkatherine/Vi the credit as the designer.

Thank you

 

Bianchina by Stefania

Proudly presenting little Bianchina, first pattern made by Stefania Bianchi.

For those that don’t know, some time last year I have created little Facebook group named FairyDolls Crochet. Was easier to give hand and help with my patterns this way. There are 300 of us members but are growing daily. We share experiences, help each other, share photos, links to free patterns from fellow bloggers and just hang up as a group of enthusiasts who like to make dolls and toys. Stefania is one of our oldest members and few weeks ago she shared this Bianchina pattern with us. I have fell in love with little sheep, and same day star

ted making one myself. As the pattern was in Italian (and have to first Italian pattern I worked on), I translated it to English as I worked on it (to help Stefania and group members who were excited about this pattern as much as I was).

 

So here is Bianchina I made.

Bianchina - pattern by Stefania BianchiBianchina

With with Stefanias permission offering you her free pattern so you can make your own Bianchina 🙂

Pattern is easy to follow. For any questions you might have, you can freely ask me, or contact Stefania through her Facebook page. All the details you will find herewith.

Here is the copy of the pattern. You can also find it free to download and save for personal use on my Free Patterns page.

Wishing you all lots of fun times with Bianchina! Big thanks to dear Stefania. Hopefully new pattern from her will be available soon!!!

Bianchina 1

Bianchina 2Bianchina 3Bianchina 4Bianchina 5Bianchina 6Bianchina 7

 

 

 

 

While you are all working on your new pattern, I will go back to finish my new project; Waldorf inspired doll. Dear friends, I love this doll!!!!

By now you all know I love dolls. Not only making them but I really enjoy having them, seeing them, being around them… This one is real treasure. Really, really a doll! Soft, cuddly, beautiful… Here is sneak peak to what I am working on these days.

Waldorf inspired doll - AmigurumiBBAmigurumiBB - work in progress, Waldorf/Steiner inspired doll

Wishing you all happy and peaceful rest of the weekend.

 

Vanja