After almost one moth of break from new posts, returning with, I hope, lovable gift to you all.
New crochet addition to all Waldorf admirers.
Simple testing the head for this pattern has taken our little Facebook group into wonderful doll making adventure. Many new ideas opened and new patterns were created. 25 wonderful and kind ladies have applied to test the pattern. Those that finished came up with the most adorable little princess dolls 🙂 Some we still wait to finish their projects. If ladies agree I will post their photos for all of you to see.
What I am specially satisfied that not matter which weight yarn or size hook was used, the pattern worked well for all.
For the first time we have tried joining limbs with cotter pins, and making joints with whatever we could find at home. Instead of original discs, washers and cotter pins, we mounted cotter pins over buttons, and if cotter pins were not available, wire or paper clips were used. Please feel free to check on home made options on joints. Few photos and how the joints are done I have added HERE
My baby grew to little girl very fast. It is amazing how fast the kids grow these days!!! 🙂 Like mushrooms after the rain. One day I saw her bald and crying and the next one she asked for her hair to be done!
The next day her friend showed ….
Kids!!!
🙂
The pattern is pretty long.
Pattern has several additions. I will try to explain what each of them will bring and you cna choose from.
Basic Waldorf Inspired Baby includes instructions on how to crochet baby’s body from head to toe.
This is what you will get with the basic Walsdorf Inspired Baby pattern:
During testing the pattern, one of tester ladies and my dear friend wanted to make baby with open mouth, or the mouth baby can place her finger in, pacifier or baby bottle. Based on Waldorf’s baby head she made adjustments and came up with open mouth head which is absolute must have. I warmly recommend everyone to try this technique not just for this baby head, but for any of your baby heads in the future. Thanks to wonderful friend and generous and kind TB Cess, this pattern we can share as addition to basic Waldorf Baby.
This head required more bent arms, so the hand and sucking finger can reach the mouth easily. For that reason I adjusted and added one more pattern for arms. Called it Sucking finger arms. You can make each arm different and still keep the same size and proportion of your baby. Rounds on both arms (one you can find in basic pattern and this one) are equal. The only difference is thumb crocheted separately and added later to position you prefer and position that matches baby’s mouth the best, and this arm is bent little bit more in the elbow.
Hair for Waldorf doll’s I made and I always make following Beth Webber’s photo tutorial. This is the best one on the web I have encountered so far and all of you who are following me for long time by now, know that I keep repeating myself and suggesting By Hook By Hand blog any time I can, because Beth always inspires me with her doll creations. Her patterns and tutorials are easy to follow and yet all are masterly made.
Photo tutorial on how to make wig for your doll you can find HERE
Following this tutorial I have made simple wig cap, and here are few details.
What I have said to the ladies who tested the pattern, when working on the wig, so will tell you too. Same as with crochet work, in wig making and waving the hairs on, you have right and wrong side. While following Beth’s tutorial, pay attention on how the hairs are waved to the wig. It makes huge difference later. If you will need more help regarding this, please feel free to ask and I will make a short post, showing you through photos what exactly to pay attention to.
At the end what is left are the clothes.
Clothes are crocheted in No.5 thread and still using 2 mm hook. Writing pattern for babies clothes and making it perfect to fit everyone, if you ask me, is the hardest part for most of us who write patterns wishing the pattern will work the same for all.
For that reason I tried to make pattern(s) easy enough so each and every one of you can adjust the stitch count based on yarn and hook used. Important is to work with lighter yarn and adjust the stitch count accordingly. By any chance don’t try crocheting clothes with same weight yarn as doll was made of, or even worse, using heavier one. Clothes needs to be light and fluffy. For this doll I have tried to keep clothes old fashioned.
Created little girlish top,
Nice little pants that can fit the baby even if she wears diapers on,and sock looking booties. All are very, very easy to make. You can view them or download them HERE
Little by little we came to the end 🙂 I hope I haven’t missed anything.
Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new baby pattern, and even more I hope you will enjoy every second while making one.
For any questions, please feel free to write and ask.
Wishing you all happy, relaxing and blessed weekend.
Can you believe I haven’t shared any new pattern in 2015?
This year started with amigurumi lessons (and there are still more than few coming), and even though I worked on my new patterns all these time, haven’t found time to share them here. Have to break that “magic circle”!
Easter is month ahead but I think, it’s not too early to start with preparing and sharing something cute for that occasion.
Bunny Babies! Ta-daah!
When making these bunnies I really felt as making baby toy, so they ended up as Bunny Babies and are suitable for nursery rooms and baby showers, so not necessarily Easter toy to make. If making as baby toy, stay alert when adding eyes. I suggest to embroider ones, if baby will play with toy (and skip the ribbon).
Pattern for these lovable Bunny Babies you can find under Free Patterns Page, or direct link here
I’ve also prepared two more Easter patterns:
Colorful Easter Eggs
and fun and playful Dixie Chick
Both of these two patterns, for the first time, I offered for sale and you can find them in my Etsy Shop
If you feel as buying me cup of coffee or skein of yarn, please feel free to visit the shop.
Thank you for stopping by and taking time to read this post.
Hope you like new patterns and will find something for you and your loved ones.
Wishing you all wonderful Friday and happy, blessed weekend to come!
My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep around 😀
Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are really looking for one of them I am sure you have already started making some of them. If not, check the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern soon.
For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses in crazy and bright holiday colors.
Less talking and more working!
Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.
I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as many photos as I could take. I know there will be some that will need more clarifications, so please do not hesitate to write and ask.
If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will make correction a.s.a.p.
Christmas Elves
Materials needed:
Medium weight cotton yarn:
colors of your choice:
skin
green (in two shades)
white
red
yellow, brown or any other color for the hair
7 mm safety eyes
2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is used for the hat only)
red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for lips)
needles for sewing the parts together and mouth embroidery
textile glue (for the hair)
textile hardener (starch)
powder blush or oil based crayons to color the cheeks
Finished size: 24 cm / 9.5 inches
Gauge: 8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5 cm). Try to obtain the gauge when working head and body.
Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.
pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch. Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch. This stitch is used for making nose.)
fpsc – front post single crochet
R – row or round
* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following after
inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)
dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in order to create 1 stitch)
blo – work only the back loops of the stitch
flo – work only the front loops of the stitch
note:
if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less visible as possible.
Change color on the last stitch of the previous round (having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second color and draw through these loops to close the stitch).
Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.
Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip stitch was made (now making the stitch through both loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the round. When reaching the end and starting new round, skip the slip stitch.
Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15 leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes in the round below them, centered between both eyes.
R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45 sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42 sts)
R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)
R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.
Arms
start working with flash color yarn
R1: sc x6 in magic ring
R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)
R3: sc x9 sts
R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)
R5: sc x12 sts
R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)
stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff arms light.
R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts
change color to one you will make sleeves.
R10: blo sc x9 sts
R11: sc x9 sts
R12: blo sc x9 sts
R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts
R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)
R17 to R29: sc x10 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.
Legs:
start with shoes (make 2)
R1 sc x4 in magic ring
R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)
R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)
R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)
R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)
R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)
R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)
R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)
R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)
R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)
R12: sc x12 sts
pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to make the shoe tip keep desired form.
R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts
R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts
R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)
R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6 sts)
R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)
R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)
R19 ch1, turn, dec x1
R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch. We’ll skip this one on the next round)
R21: sc18
before continuing with edging around the shoe, you might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12 sts round.
Now return to shoe.
R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the last chain stitch
skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the third st.
repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st to third st* around (making 6 star points areound shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn
R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.
Tie off, hide end.
Your shoe is done.
Here are few photos that might help you understand the shoe pattern little bit better.
Legs (x2)
working in one or multiple colors
R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on shoe
stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs nice and soft.
R2 to R31: sc x12 sts
tie off.
Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and sew across. This will make your elf sit better.
Body
color of your choice
place legs side by side, both facing same direction.
R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs. Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.
Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet around making total of 30 sts.
From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few photos on how to connect legs with chain in between. Hope it’ll help!
R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)
R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)
R4 to R11: sc x42 sts
R12: blo sc x42 sts
R13: sc x42 sts
R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)
R15 to R17: sc x36 sts
R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R19 to R21: sc x30 sts
R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R23 to R25: sc x24 sts
change color to collar
R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
R27: blo sc x18 sts
change color to skin
R28: sc 18 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head together.
Stuff body nice and firm.
Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:
slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: sc x42 sts
R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts
R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)
R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts
R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)
tie off hide end.
Skirt for girl:
slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)
R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)
R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)
R5 to R10 sc x120 sts
tie off and hide end.
Belt(s):
make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls, but make sure to measure the length and add or decrease stitches accordingly.
To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up and standing in between two loops.
Look at the photo for more details.
Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the bottom and top.
For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I worked with half double crochet across the chain to create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.
Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the body to secure the belt stays in place.
Belt bucket:
work in the magic ring
sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1
close the magic ring
Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.
Glue the belt bucket on the belt.
Bow:
work in the magic ring
ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1
close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.
Hanging bow ends:
ch18, starting from the the 3rd chain st, hdc1, sl st next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch to 1 st and finish nicely.
Hide ends in the back of the bow.
Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew them or glue them on the belt.
Ears
R1: sc x10 in magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.
R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic ring. Ch1, turn.
R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch made on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.
R1: sc x10 in the magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.
R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6
ch1, turn
R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4 to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.
To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry completely.
Collars:
Boy elf collar:
working on the front loops of R27 of the body
sl st to one of front loop stitches,
*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3rd * repeat around
For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).
*Ch1, sc2*… around
tie off hide ends inside the body
Girl collar:
R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)
R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1* ….around (6 petals)
tie off hide ends
edgings on sleeves:
You can try variations.
For boy I used simple single crochet around top round and then attached back loop stitches just made with front loops left on the lower arm part using single crochet again
For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the bottom line.
Hat:
Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light green one you can see on girl)
Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one you used to make the doll).
I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to top. You can do either way. Important is to start stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.
On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after decreasing or increasing previous round, next two rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it would be 42. Following round either decrease or increase – depending if you started from bottom or top of the hat).
My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).
R1 to R4: sc x45 sts
R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)
R6, R7 : sc x40 sts
R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)
R9, R10: sc x35 sts
R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)
R12, R13: sc x30 sts
R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)
R15, R16: sc x25 sts
R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)
R18, R19: sc x20 sts
R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)
R21, R22: sc x15 sts
R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)
R24, R25: sc10 sts
R26: dec x5 (5 sts)
R27 to R30: sc5
tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside the hat.
After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all around.
If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24 repeatedly.
Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc remaining stitches.
I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease, all around would look same way.
For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.
Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50 stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in rounds.
Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for easier counting the stitches and rounds.
First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round
then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5, followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two rounds of same stitch count again.
From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat only.
For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5 decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches. Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on this half.
After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of the same stitch count.
This way I worked all the way it was possible to count and work decrease on the half of the hat.
Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before closing the last round.
Important is that decreases are at the same part of the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will have time I will try to write down exact pattern for this hat. It is really nice one.
I am also sure that many of you will be able to make such hat without my help.
Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)! That is all the magic there is!
Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th round finished with reverse (crab) stitch.
These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra charm to this little pixie hat.
Hair:
Boy’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely
R1:
sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
repeat above 1 more time
sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
repeat above (ch10) three more times
repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn
R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn
R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
from next round do not chain1 but turn each round. Skip 1st stitch and make decrease (2nd and 3rd st). Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.
R13: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)
R14: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)
R15: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)
R16: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)
R17 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)
R18 (skip 1st st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)
R19: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)
R20: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)
R22 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)
R23: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)
R24: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)
R25 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)
R26 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)
tie off.
Close the magic ring now.
Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second chain hook, sl st3
repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side and bottom to R13 opposite side.
This will create little hairs on the back of the head. Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6 instead of 4. Will look even better than these short ones.
Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange the hairs in front of doll’s face.
Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and fringes arrange the way you like.
You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you prefer.
Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are. Loose and free. They will shape the head and give extra touch to your doll.
Girl’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely
R1:
sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
repeat above 1 more time
sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
repeat above (ch10) one more time
sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn
R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn
R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row. Ch1 and turn when starting new row.
R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)
R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)
R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)
R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)
R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)
R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)
R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)
R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)
tie off.
Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.
From the photo you can see I worked only the sides. You can work all the way, including the bottom row of back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or make shorter ones.
I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to make for your doll.
And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀
I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.
…while my elves were coming to my house from far away North they met someone special on their journey. This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted invitation with great joy.
I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll see him you’ll know why! 🙂
Here is preview of the pattern I am working on at the moment.
Christmas Elves
Few more details to finish and if all goes well, as planned will share the pattern in few days.
Finished size of these elves made in cotton DK and with 2 mm crochet hook is 24 cm (9.5 inches) -without hat. What is special and new in this pattern are two different hair styles you will learn.
Hope you like them so far! 🙂
See you in few days with the patter and more photos to show.
I have been asked a lot recently to teach and show how to make a doll. Was thinking of easiest way to do that and decided to make this photo tutorial and try to explain in details how this little doll is made. Pattern itself is very easy, but took me week of work, taking photos, painting and preparing for easy to follow HowTo you can find and download here.
Hope you will like it and find it useful.
Let me explain what you can find in each of these tutorials.
Part 1. – Head and body – Basic FairyDoll pattern in written and photo form. Photos tried to take on parts I thought, beginner might find difficult to understand. This part includes doll’s head, body, arms, dress and sewing parts together. All I know and how I work is explained inside. How to attach arms and much more.
Part 2. – Hair – this HowTo is following Easy Way To Make Fairy’s Hair. Step by step photos and description on how to crochet and make your doll hair beautiful
Part 3. – Painting Eyes – This part many have been waiting for since last year, when my first Fairies were released. Finally I made it 🙂 Step by step instructions on how to paint your dolls eyes. Addition to eyes, I added tips and trick on how to add color on your doll’s cheeks and lips. One thing I forgot to add to this part and are designs I made for you to follow when paining eyes. Will add this photo with several eye designs under Help Page, so don’t forget to download that one as well.
And that is it, was lot of work from my side and is you turn to try and make your doll. 🙂
For any help and questions you might have, please feel free to write and ask. Most of the time I try to answer within few days, but lately was in delay sending replies to your mails. Please forgive me. Thank you for your patience. Will answer to each and every one during next few days.
Have fun making your doll(s) and don’t forget to send me photos of your work or share it with me and my friends on Facebook.
For now leaving you with two photos of doll I made while preparing this tutorial. She ended up so nice! I love those fairies!
You will also find the front pages of each of three tutorial parts. Under each one is direct link to .pdf file from where you can save it to you computer.
And again we have little treat from our Facebook group. I try to encourage and post free patterns done by dear friends and amigurumi enthusiasts who make these for pleasure and fun. If you remember first one we shared this way was little Bianchina by Stefania Bianchi. She was accepted great and there are many Bianchina projects finished and photos shared on Facebook what makes me so happy. Really hope Stefania will come up with some new pattern we can share soon.
This time I can proudly present little Pammy the Piglet made by NVkatherine from Vietnam. This is her third free pattern. She also makes video tutorials of her projects and I will share you her links so you can visit and see her work.
She was very kind to offer this pattern to be presented and shared in my blog and I feel very honored and happy I have this blog and all of you dear friends who follow to share this little one with.
So here it is, little Pammy the Piglet:
PATTERN:
Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (a.k.a. 2sc in 1st)
dec = decrease (a.k.a. sc2tog)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
FO = fasten off
HEAD
*With pink yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]
2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]
4. 2sc, 1inc [24]
5. 1sc in each st around [24]
6. 3sc, 1inc [30]
7. 4sc, 1inc [36]
8. 5sc, 1inc [42]
9. 1sc in each st around for 5 rows [42]
10. 5sc, 1dec [36]
11. 4sc, 1dec [30]
12. 3sc, 1dec [24]
~> Add safety eyes between row 9 and 10, 11 stitches apart.
13. 2sc, 1dec [18]
14. 1sc, 1dec [12]
15. dec around [6]
FO. Leave a long tail to sew up the gap.
BODY
*With white yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]
2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]
4. 2sc, 1inc [24]
5. 3sc, 1inc [30]
6. 1sc in each st around for 3 rows [30]
*Change to pink*
7. 4sc, 1dec [25]
8. 1sc in each st around [25]
9. 3sc, 1dec [20]
10. 1sc in each st around [20]
11. 2sc, 1dec [15]
12. 3sc, 1dec [12]
FO. Leave a long tail to connect the body to the head.
LEGS
*With pink yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]
2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]
4. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [18]
5. 4sc, 1dec [15]
6. 1sc in each st around [15]
7. 3sc, 1dec [12]
8. 2sc, 1dec [9]
9. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [9]
FO. Leave long tails to sew the legs onto the body.
ARMS
*With pink yarn*
1. 7sc in the magic ring [7]
2. 1sc in each st around for 10 rows [7]
F/O. Leave long tails to sew both arms onto the body.
NOSE
*With pink*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]
2. 1inc around [12]
3. 2sc, 1inc [16]
4. sc around in BLO [16]
5. sc around normally [16]
F/O. Leave long tail to sew onto the face.
EARS
1. 4sc in the magic ring [4]
2. 1sc, 1inc [6]
3. 1dec, 4inc [9]
4. 1inc, 2sc [12]
5. 3sc, 1inc [15]
6. 4sc, 1inc [18]
7. 1sc, 1dec [12]
8. dec around [6]
Sl st into next st and F/O. Leave long tails to sew the ears onto the head.
TAIL
1. ch6
2. 1inc across starting from the second chain from the hook [10]
F/O. Leave a long tail to sew onto the body.
NOTE: After sewing on everything, you can add decorations onto your pig. It’s totally up to you! ^^
For complete video tutorial on how to make your Pammy the Piglet, please fee free to visit Youtube and watch the vide NVkatherine made for you:
So what do you think? Isn’t this one so adorable that you feel like making one for yourself?
Hope you have enjoyed. Thank you for staying with me and little Pammy the Piglet.
Hugs
Vanja
Designed by NVkatherine2014
This is originally designed by NVkatherine so please do NOT claim this pattern yours. Don’t repost the pattern any where or sell it. You may sell the finished dolls but please give NVkatherine/Vi the credit as the designer.
Proudly presenting little Bianchina, first pattern made by Stefania Bianchi.
For those that don’t know, some time last year I have created little Facebook group named FairyDolls Crochet. Was easier to give hand and help with my patterns this way. There are 300 of us members but are growing daily. We share experiences, help each other, share photos, links to free patterns from fellow bloggers and just hang up as a group of enthusiasts who like to make dolls and toys. Stefania is one of our oldest members and few weeks ago she shared this Bianchina pattern with us. I have fell in love with little sheep, and same day star
ted making one myself. As the pattern was in Italian (and have to first Italian pattern I worked on), I translated it to English as I worked on it (to help Stefania and group members who were excited about this pattern as much as I was).
So here is Bianchina I made.
With with Stefanias permission offering you her free pattern so you can make your own Bianchina 🙂
Pattern is easy to follow. For any questions you might have, you can freely ask me, or contact Stefania through her Facebook page. All the details you will find herewith.
Here is the copy of the pattern. You can also find it free to download and save for personal use on my Free Patterns page.
Wishing you all lots of fun times with Bianchina! Big thanks to dear Stefania. Hopefully new pattern from her will be available soon!!!
While you are all working on your new pattern, I will go back to finish my new project; Waldorf inspired doll. Dear friends, I love this doll!!!!
By now you all know I love dolls. Not only making them but I really enjoy having them, seeing them, being around them… This one is real treasure. Really, really a doll! Soft, cuddly, beautiful… Here is sneak peak to what I am working on these days.
Wishing you all happy and peaceful rest of the weekend.
To all that celebrate and are getting ready for Sunday, wishing HAPPY EASTER!
For this occasion prepared special little treat chick and bunny I made following the free patterns from the fellow bloggers. Both creative designers and dear friends.
First one is the Rainbow Chick
This super awesome rainbow chick comes from Jennifer and her SquirrelPicnic.
Next one is just some bunny I found pattern on the internet. On one of the Russian forums. The pattern doesn’t state the author or original designer and for that reason can’t share the link to it, so will show just the photo. Look how lovely this bunny is:
WIsh photo can show you how soft this bunny is and how cuddly in real he looks. Working on the pattern made few changes such as longer arms and legs. Really nice bunny pattern for babies and small children.
To finish with, addin one more photo with all of them together. Wishing you happy weekend and for those that celebrate
Happy Easter!
♥
Vanja
(sorry for not making “normal” links but have very hard time writing posts and creating anything on my blog lately because of very old computer I am working at. Sometimes I just can’t see the buttons to add or create links. Sorry for this, really hope these old fashioned write the link way will work for all)
In addition to Bunny family adding the pattern for their Easter basket and daffodils.
Dear friend Rhondda from oombawkadesign and her followers have made this special request that I couldn’t turn down.
For them and all that love tiny baskets and beautiful daffodils here is the pattern!
Basket and daffodils were crocheted with 2,00 mm crochet hook. Yarns are left overs of different yarns I had.
My basket is only 10 cm (4 inches) wide and 8 cm (3.1 inch) high.
Daffodils measure 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) in diameter.
Abbreviations used in the pattern:
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
bpsc – back post single crochet
blo – back loop of each stitch is worked
sl st – slip stitch
inc – increase stitch, making two single crochet stitches in one stitch
dec – decreasing stitch, decreasing two single crochet stitches in one
rev st – reverse or crab stitch
R – round
EasterBasket
Sc8 in magic ring
R1 inc8 (16 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x8 (40 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x8 (48 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x8 (56 sts)
R7 back post sc 56
R8 sc56
R9-R13 blo sc56
R14 *inc14, sc14* x2 (84 sts)
R15 sc84
R16 rev st around
Tie off hide ends
Handle
Attach wire in the middle of each side of the basket where we haven’t done increases (you will notice one side is strait and other is curving forward, on each side). look at the photos below
Sc each of the handles so the stitches cover the wire completely. For my handle that was 10 cm long I used 70 sc
Twist around crocheted work so it gives nice twisted look over the wire.
Daffodil
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 inc6
R2 *ch5, sc in the second chain from hook, hdc to next chain, dc in each of next two chain sts, skip one stitch on the base of the flower, sl st to next* repeat this for each of the next 5 petals (6 petals in total)
R3 at this point you can change the color if you want the middle to be different (darker yellow color) or you can continue with the same.
Ch1, sc to front loops of each of the skipped stitches of the R2 (6 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R5 sc8
R6 *ch2, sl st to next st* x8
Tie off hide ends
This makes our daffodil finished.
I have made daffodils on wire. to do that you have to create the daffodil’s back.
Back of the flower (green yarn)
R1 sc to back loops of each of the stitches we skipped at R2 when making daffodil.
R2-R3 sc6
R4 add some stuffing and prepare the wire you will push inside this piece (on wire end, that will be stuck inside the flower, make a tiny litle hook, that will hold on stuffing). Sc every second st. Tie off leaving pretty long end for wrapping the wire in yarn.
Depending on what yarn you will work with, you might want to close this last round (instead of decreasing nad stitching) with needle. See what suits you better. At R4 all that matters is to close our work nicely, to add wire and wrap it in yarn.
Push the wire inside the back of the flower, add some glue at this tiny opening so will hold the wire and yarn nice and firm, start wrapping the wire.
When reaching the end, add some more glue to secure the end and finish off.
And that is it. Your 3D daffodil is made.
Use some fabric starch to form and model your daffodils to make them look nice.
For the tiny eggs I have added in the basket haven’t posted the pattern. For each egg I made I tried out different pattern I found online (and there are many, many you can try).
Eggs were done in thread and 1,5 mm hook.
Hope you have enjoyed these two tiny projects and that will give them a try this Spring.
It is little bit more than one month till Easter! This year my Easter bunnies wanted to share their family photos with you. They were also so very kind that allowed me to write the pattern so all of you can make their relatives and send us their photos when done. This way all the bunnies will see their relatives around the world and will be able to make a family album and maybe even create a family tree 🙂
Let me introduce the Bunny Familly
As you can see it is pretty much the modern Bunny family; grandparents, mom and dad an one child (in tis case son).
Lets look at some more photos from their family album
Here are Bunny grandparents with their grandson. Grandma was first I made. From her pattern all other bunnies were born (It should have been grandpa, but….I started with the girl this time 🙂 )
On the next photo are young mom and dad with their son. The pattern you are going to have is for this kind of bunny. I have written down as many details as I could. Eyes are crocheted as well, and you will find instructions on how to make them as well.
Here the ladies decided to take photo alone…the little one jumped in last second.
For any questions regarding the pattern, please feel free to contact me. I really hope you will make a bunny or two and don’t forget to send photos for our family album!
Kids!!!
The pattern can be found and downloaded HERE
and you can open and download it HERE
Pattern can be viewed and downloaded from HERE
What I have said to the ladies who tested the pattern, when working on the wig, so will tell you too. Same as with crochet work, in wig making and waving the hairs on, you have right and wrong side. While following Beth’s tutorial, pay attention on how the hairs are waved to the wig. It makes huge difference later. If you will need more help regarding this, please feel free to ask and I will make a short post, showing you through photos what exactly to pay attention to.
Nice little pants that can fit the baby even if she wears diapers on,
and sock looking booties.
All are very, very easy to make. You can view them or download them HERE
