Posted on 20 Comments

Week in a Fairy Land

This week was pretty busy! It was al about fairies!

As my older niece’s birthday is coming up this month was n a hurry to start with and finish fairy house I told her the fairies started to build in my garden 😀

Photo that gave me idea to make such house one day popped out on Pinterest.  Fell in love with the houses this young woman is making/creating.  Here is the link to her beautifully fairy house.

http://alittlefurinthepaint.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-fairy-house-revisited.html

You should go and see how wonderful work she is doing!

Here is the house I have been working on.  Construction of the house is made in paper clay. Have the roof done, and walls are painted so far. Now have small work in polymer clay to do. Windows, doors decorations such as flowers…  I am planning on making the house door movable, so my nice can open and sneak peak inside to look for the fairies;  will try to make few pieces of furniture to decorate inside as well.

This will keep me busy for the next few days, maybe whole next week, depending how well my fingers will listen my creative mind 😀  Will make sure to take the photo of the house when completely finished.  Here are the photos of what I have done so far.

Still lots of work to do….

Speaking of fairies… making this little house, and me loving fairies and fantasy, I tried to make a little fairy doll.

The biggest problem was finding suitable wings to fit the fairy. Not to small, not to big, not to difficult, not to simple….ahhh….. what problems …..

I am still not sure my choice is the best one made but this pattern was easy to make, wings are firm and steady…. and I still have time finding new ones and trying them out 😀

Today I am not going to talk about the pattern. Didn’t have time to write it all down for you to try to make the fairy doll. It is the hair that need lots of explaining(s).

Aha…before I continue talking, let me show you few photographs of this Fairy Doll I have made.

Doll is same size as BB Dolls. Changed the head shape and made arms little bit longer. Dress is different (this one is cut in waist – but again easy to make).

Hair is not so difficult to make even though it looks pretty complicated wrapped here and there.

It can’t bee seen on the photos well, but hair is done in two pieces. Back with pony tail, and front with bangs and side hairs to fill al the gaps around ears.

Aha, this doll has the ears! 😀 Elvish ones!!!

I hope the pattern will be finished by the end of next week. Will try to make it. Still wish to work some more on this Fairy Doll.  Wish to change shape of the shoes, have to unblock my mind so can finally remember how to make left/right ear instead of making both right 😀 … Have few more hair styles I would like to try making …

Did try making tiny fairy as well. You can see her on photo below.  Size smaller than little Karla doll. Here she is compared to finished fairy. The head in front of the dolls is new airy I am working on.

Hope you enjoyed these little fairies and their stories!

I didn’t want to finish this week without at least one pattern to keep you busy over the weekend 😀

As a mater of fact I have prepared two patterns for you that am sure you will enjoy very much.

Both are fast and easy to make. Outcome is amazing! You will have lots of fun making them and I am sure will find someone to make a nice gift to!

First one comes from dear blogger friend Sharon and her Gentlestitches.com. She has created this little Koala that I have made and love it.

I have added the branch and made Koala as a keychain. My Koala ended up about 6-7 cm high what made him just perfect for a keychain. Is really so adorable. I didn’t have safety nose to put it on, so I sewed, embroidered one instead. So did with the eyes. Photo is not the best one (but again, when did you see any of my photographs turning out perfect 😉 ).

Link to the pattern and free download to this pattern is here:

http://gentlestitches.com/free-amigurumi-patterns-2/

The second pattern I warmly recommend is one quite unusual but again so outstanding and gorgeous one. I fell in one with this one at first sight. Did not have peace until I tried it out! The second pattern is made by Jennifer at Squirrel Picnic. Her pattern is Cuddly Robot or MEAP 🙂

This is my MEAP made following the Jennifer’s pattern!

She has got this great, great idea on making the wheels! You should try it!

Link to MEAP pattern and Squirrel Picnic blog is here:

Cuddly Robot Crochet Pattern

Really hope you will enjoy making both of these wonderful toys and have lots and lots of fun! 😀

 

Wishing you all wonderful and peaceful weekend.

Love and hugs to all,

Vanja

Posted on 22 Comments

One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll.  Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking!  He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.One piece boy

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

one piece boy

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25  shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it.  Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!

Trousers

ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from behind.one piece boy

Hair

This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:

ch21

R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .

Hat

Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:

Body

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end

Head

sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts)  – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.

Tail

ch5

R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉DSC01760

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,

Vanja

 

Posted on 45 Comments

One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head.  If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.

 

Abbreviation:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease

 

- cloth doll inspired crochet -

cloth doll inspired crochet

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5th stitch from the end, ch1,  sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49  sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair,  paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on. DSC01681

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,

VanjaDSC01683

Posted on 27 Comments

Blue Bear friends you can make

My dear friends. Last week I shared Blue Bear pattern. Bears are classics and are suitable for big and small, young and old…

This week wanted to show you what you can make out of one pattern you like or find easy; will show you on Blue Bear pattern example, but in same manner you can play and make different animals from any pattern you like or find easy to make.

I have made just few examples, but possibilities are endless. Will show you how to make a cat, dog, bunny and koala.

Head, body, arms and legs are done all the same as in Blue Bear pattern. Ears and noses are changed in order to make different animal expressions.

For each animal will give you instructions on how to make. If you will wish to make some other animal that is not listed here and you don’t know how to do it, let me know and will try to help you out.

Let us start with the kitten!

Bear pets - 4Bear pets - 3

As mentioned, from the Blue Bear pattern, I have added new ears and have made different nose base.

 

Ears (make2)

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (6sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x3 (15 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x3 (18 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x3 (21 sts)

R8-R9 sc21 sts

R10 *dec1, sc5* x3 (18sts)

tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later

 

Nose base

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12 sts

tie off. Make another circle the same way. Connect both circles with one stitch and with black yarn sew the nose and mouth on.

Next one is little koala

Bear pets - 1Bear pets - 2

Koala ears (make2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6-R7 sc30 sts

R8 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R9 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later

Nose

I have made the nose base, but  it is not necessary at all. You can sew the big black nose right on the head. If you want to make the nose same way I did, make a nose base this way:

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in on st, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose later.

Bunny

Bear pets - 5Bear pets - 6

For making bunny, again, we will change the ears. Nose I have used same as made for the kitten.

Bunny ears (make2)

R1 sc 6 in magic ring

R2 sc6 sts

R3 inc6 (12 sts)

R4 sc12 sts

R5 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18sts)

R6 sc18 sts

R7 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R8-R12  sc24 sts

R13 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R14-R16 sc18 sts

R17 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18-R23 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later.

 

And the last one is little puppy

Bear pets - 7Bear pets - 8

Little puppy is made out of bunny ears and kitty nose. You can use kitten ears as well. You can sew hem on the sides pointing down, or more up on top of the head (pointing up). It is really the way you like more.

Like I mentioned earlier, possibilities are really endless. You can make a mouse, elephant, monkey, fox…

I hope you have enjoyed this post. Also hope I gave you something to think about when starting on next project. You should remember one thing, there is anything you can’t do!  😉

Fingers crossed that by next week my new doll will be done.

Wish you all great end of the week and happy relaxing weekend!

Posted on 39 Comments

Blue Bear pattern

To all marvelous grandmothers and great-grandmothers who have asked and waited patiently for this pattern to be written, I would like to thank.

This little one is really done as a softy toy. Little pocket on his belly makes him nice hiding treasure bear as well 😀

Wish you all great Blue Bear crocheting!

Blue Bear - 5

Blue Bear Pattern:

Abbreviations:

sc -single crochet

ch -chain

inc -2sc in one stitch

dec -decrease (I used invisible decrease on this one)

sl.st. – slip stitch

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8ply cotton yarn in blue for the bear, white for the nose and pocket belly and starting ups on the legs and arms.

embroidery thread in black, embroidery needle for sewing up the parts and to embroider nose. eyes.

 

Head

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R25 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R26 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

Stuff the head well.

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 sc46 sts

R25 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R26 sc40 sts

R27 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R28 sc34 sts

R29 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

R30 sc28 sts

Stuff the body. Stuff it well, but try it to stay nice and soft.

Tie off, leave long end for sewing the body to the head. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Change color

R4-R8  sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R27 sc12 sts

Stuff the arms softly. Try to push the stuffing only to the bottom of the arms. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

 

Legs (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

Change color

R5-R9 sc24 sts

R10 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R11-25 sc18 sts

Stuff the legs softly. Try to push the stuffing  to the bottom of the leags only. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the legs to the body.

 

Ears (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18 sts

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R8 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears to the head later.

 

Nose

(continuous rounds)

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around the chain, sc3, in1 (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24sts)

R4-R5 sc24 sts

Tie off, leaving long end for sewing later.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3-R4 sc9 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail later.

 

Pocket Belly

We are working in rows here. Finishing each row, ch1, turn the work and continue as indicated in the patter.

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 inc4 (8sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x4 (32 sts)

R9-R10 sc32 sts

When done, chain one and sc through the edge. Make 2sc in the magic ring, continue with 1sc till the end.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the pocket on the body later.

Blue Bear - 3

Assembling the parts:

Sew the head and the body. You should have nice joint of 28 stitches all around. Add some stuffing as you go if needed.

Sew on the arms. Flatten them and sew them through both side stitches to the body. Try to leave 11-12 stitches between looking at front side.

Before sewing, place them nice, pin them well and sew.

Sewing the legs. Sew them between rows 6-7 (looking from the bottom).

Flatten the leas, place them close one to another, pin them and sew them nicely through he stitches between row 6 and 7.

Now sew the ears. Place them on the sides of the head. Looking from the top of the head, place them on sides starting row4 until row 10. Pin them and sew them nicely.

Sew on the tail. Place it right after row 6, in the middle of back side of the body. Sew it nicely.

Nose

You can design the tip of the nose now, or you can do it later. It depends how you like it and feel comfortable with it. Important is that you embroider the tip of the nose on the upper side of the nose construction.

Embroider mouth on the bottom part of nose construction, using black embroidery thread.

Stuff the nose (construction) a little,  place it on the bottom half of the head, pin it and sew it nicely.

Sew the eyes to the very top edge of the nose construction, leaving 7 stitches between them. It is optional to make the eyebrows or eyelashes (if you will be making a girl bear)..

At the end, place and pin the pocket belly. Sew it nicely, hide the ends.

Your Blue Bear is done and ready to play with.

Hope you enjoyed making it and kids will have fun playing!Blue Bear - 1Blue Bear - 6

Copyrigh on written pattern reserved

Posted on 59 Comments

Oopsie Doll

Little LalaOopsie is finished!

Was fun making this little one and hope you will have as much fun making her, as well as you daughters playing with her. Possibilities are endless. Specially when it comes making hair or dress. Looking forward to hear how about your ideas!

Here is the one I made (this is just the first one…many more will follow 🙂 )

Think we can start with the pattern right away. There is a lot of work to do!oopsie

Abbreviation, US terms:

Sc         Single crochet

Dc         Double crochet

Inc         2 sc in one stitch

Sl.St.         Slip stitch

Dec.         decrease, invisible decrease or 2 stitches together

Ch         Chain

Blo         back loops only

Flo         front loops only

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

felt:          black (for eye lashes and under the button placement)

pink (cheeks)

Black embroidery thread for designing the lips

Two 7 mm buttons

Embroidery and darning needles for sewing up the parts and designing the face

Wire (for legs and arms – to make them flexible and mobile)

P.T.F.E. thread seal tape to secure the wire ends

Stuffing of your choice for the head and body

Finished size of this doll is 23 cm (9 inches)

Gauge per 1 inch (2,5 cm): 9stx8rows

Head

In skin color of your choice:

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R19 sc66 sts

R20 *Dec1, sc9* x6 (60 sts)

R21 *Dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R22 *Dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R23 *Dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R24 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R25 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R26 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R27 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head. Stuff it nice and firm.

R28 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Finish stuffing.

Body

Working on the panties. Choose the color you want panties to be.

R1 sc6 in magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R9 sc36 sts

Change color to one you are using for skin.

R10 sc36 sts

R11 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R12 sc30 sts

R13 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 sc24 sts

R15 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R16 sc18 sts

At this point begin stuffing the body

R17 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head.

Finish stuffing the body

Legs (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2  Inc4 (8 sts)

R3-32 sc30  8sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing

Arms (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3-R4 sc6 sts

R5 ch3, sl.st2 (to this chain you have just made – we are making thumb here), *sc2, inc1* x2 (8 sts)

R6-R25 sc8 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arm to the body later

Now take the legs and hands and wire you have prepared.

Measure the length from one end to another (for leg and arm) and cut wire in same length.

Now use a little bit of stuffing, wrap it tightly on the top of each side of the wire. You can tighten it with some thread if it will be easier for you, take the seal tape and start wrapping it around ends, through the middle, towards the other end, until you have this nice looking, safe piece, with both ends closed and secured.

Here is the photo of materials used in my Oopsie doll and how this “stick” looks like before put into arm or leg.

wire sticksfinished stick

As you finish all four of the sticks place them inside the limbs.

Make another one short though, about 5 cm  ( 2 inches) long. This one make little bit thicker (If the wire is narrow as mine, fold it twice and twist it a little before wrapping it and making it safe. This piece we will use for head-body connection so the head doest wobble around.

Now you can start sewing the body parts together.

Start with head and body first.

Place the “stick” (wire) in the middle of both parts and sew the head and body nicely through all of 12 stitches. Add some stuffing if needed.

Legs:

Sew the legs on the bottom of the body, starting at R2-R6 at each side.

Safety pin them, check them twice and sew them nicely.

Arms:

Place arms on the sides of the body. Place them second row below from where the head and body are sewed together. Sew them through two rows, nicely. Be aware to place the thumb pointing front.

Lala

we can start working on hair

Hair

In color of your choice

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R15 sc66 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head.

 Ringlets

I have done mine in pair of two bunches, but then sewed them all together to look as made in one piece.

You can do the hair many different ways. You can make ringlets longer or shorter. You can make them thicker or thinner. You can make them less or more in numbers.

Start working, make few, place it on the head and see if you like them to be that way. Play and have fun. It really is fun! 😀

I will give you directions n how I did the ringlets. Will give you the instructions on two bunches with 5 ringlets each and you decide if you will make them looking as one or will sew them as two pony tails on each side of the head.

I made each different size. Some are the same, some are not. Was making the chains from 45-50 stitches.

In instructions will say 45 for each ringlet, but you increase or decrease as much as you like it.

Ch 47

Starting at the third stitch from the hook, stitch 3dc, repeat this for each stitch on this chain. (3dc in one st)

Reaching the end chain 47 again and repeat 3dc in each st.

This way make all 5 ringlets. Tie off and leave long end for sewing them on the head later.

Make two of such ringlets bunches.

Bangs

I did almost the same way. Didn’t have the same shade of purple that’s why these are little bit darker. Use same color yarn for the bangs.

For the bangs I also started with chain

Ch23

Sl.st.22

Make 3 more the same way

Instead of crocheting the bangs, you can just sew on few bangs on top of the head when hair will be done (before placing the bow). It is easier and also gives very nice effect. Oopsie1

Shoes

Starting with sole base (chose the color)

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3sc in one st, continue working on the other side of the chain, sc5, 2sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 inc1, sc5, inc3, sc5 inc2 (22 sts)

Change color in one you like shoes to be.

R3-R4 sc22 sts

R5 sc5, dec3, sc8 (16 sts)

R6 sc5, dec4, sc5 (14 sts)

R7 sc6, ch1 turn backwards and stitch 12 sts

(from this point on we will be working the rows, not continuous rounds)

R8-R13 sc12 sts

Change color (or use this one you have been working with) and single crochet around the edges .

Wave in the shoe laces with needle and thread of your choice.

I made chain and used it as shoe lace, but you can use a piece of yarn or thin bow.

You can make boots higher if you like.

Or, what can be done is to stitch the socks using the back loops only on the boots (making the sock or just nice lace effect coming out of the boots). Giving you just few ideas you can try to play with.

Dress!

Uf! This can be done 1001 way, trust me!

It was challenging to make it in one piece without buttons, zippers…and easy enough for girls that will play with the doll be able to take it off and change (if you will make a several 😉 ).

Dress is not done in continuous rounds. So after each row, ch1 or ch2, depending if you are starting with single crochet od double one. Finishing the row, slip stitch the last stitch to the first chain you started.

I have started my dress with chain of 36 stitches. Before closing the chain into circle, check if it fits to your doll (so you can add or decrease stitch or two).

Here we go:

Dress

Use color of your choice for the base dress color

Upper part

Ch 36, sl.st. to close the chain into a ring

R1 sc36

R2 sc36

R3 dc36

R4 dc36

R5 dc36

R6 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Using long chain (you made out of thread, yarn) in color of your choice, or string, or bow, wave in between the R5-R6 starting in front of the dress, going allthe way around and finishing in front right before you started. This we will use to close the dress after it is put on the doll, to give her nice fitting effect 😉

Turn the dress upside down, to where we have started with the chain row. We are making the skirt now. Slip stitch to any stitch and start with our first row making the bottom of the dress.

I used yellow yarn here (that was later decorated with green) to make belt effect on this dress. You can change the color or just continue with the same one you have worked the top with.

Skirt:

R1  sc36 blo

R2 sc36 blo

Change color (here I switched from yellow to pink again)

R3 2dc in one st FLO all the way around

R4 dc in each st

R5 2dc in each st

R6 dc in each st

R7 2dc in each st

Change color (for this row I used turquoise color)

R8 sc in each st

Change color (for the final row I used yellow)

R9 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Under skirt

With thinner white yarn

Slip stitch at one of the back loops on R3 of the dress’s bottom.

R1 sc all the way around

R2 2dc in each st

R3 dc each st

R4 2dc in each st

R5 dc each st

R6 2dc in each st

Change color (I used green here)

R7 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st* repeat till the end of this row.

Shoulder sleeves

Put the dress on the doll. Tighten the upper part with the bow or string you waved in, and mark best place where the strings for the shoulder sleeves would go best. This is how I did it.

Mark all four points. Two in front and two on the back, take the dress off the doll and start making the shoulder strings in the same color as the dress was made.

R1 Sl.st. at the front of the dress. Ch10, sl.st at the back (of the same shoulder side)

Change color (first one I did was pink, and now was switching to turquoise)

R2 sc10 st

Change color (mine is yellow here)

R3 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat till end

Tie off sew and hide ends nicely

In addition there is bow to make on the belt, and if you like you can add one row of zig-zag motif.

Choose what will you use for the belt. Starting at front, wave in the string or bow or whatever you have chosen for this.

In one of the rows where you have front loops visible slip stitch the yarn in color of your choice and make this motif:

*Ch2, skip one stitch, sl.st* all the way around.

Tie off, hide the ends.

oopsieb&w

Bow

Ch18

R1 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 4sl.st. 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch2, turn

R2-4 repeat the pattern from R1

When finished with R4, sc all the way around the bow.

Tie off, hide the end.

Bow middle

Ch8 (one color)

R1 sc7 (second color)

R2 *ch2, skip one, sl.st1* repeat for all the stitches (third color)

Tie or sew this piece at the middle of the bow, and sew the bow nicely on top of the head.

Finishing:

Hair:

Place the hair “cap” on, Position it the way you like it the best. Safety pin it and sew it all around.

Now place the ringlets the way you want them to be. Safety pin them and sew them so they stay at place where you wanted them to be.

If you are using bangs with slip stitched chains, the way I made my Oopsie doll, place it on the very top of the head, safety pin each bang and sew one by one, little by little on the front of the head.

At the end sew on the bow, One in the middle, on top of the head, or two at sides, depending how you will make your ringlets to be.

Eyes:

Use little bit of black felt. Place the buttons you will use of eyes on the felt, draw the outline and cut out two black felt pieces you will put under the buttons.

We will glue them first. Buttons on the felt and felt on the head, so once sewed on will stay nice and firm.

For eye lashes cut black felt, making kind of V shape pattern (as for two lashes to stick on the eye sides).

Safety pin the eyes and using black thread sew them on the head.

With embroidery needle and black thread, sew the  smiling mouth.

Using pink felt, cut two circles of about 1cm big and glue them on the face. I used regular all purpose crystal glue.

If you don’t have the felt for eyes or cheeks. Embroider the eyelashes on each side of the eye. Use little bit of powder blush for the cheeks.

Was a little work to do for this doll but at the end it’s al worth it. Hope you enjoyed making Oopsie and most of all hope your kids will enjoy playing with one! 😀

Looking forward to hear all you comments, suggestions, replies. Let me know how it goes! Send me some photos of finished doll! Looking forward hearing from you and seeing the photos.

Wish you all the best of luck and lots of fun making these dolls.

If you will come up with some special and new ideas, let me know so we will publish them on the blog!

lalaO

‘till next time wishing you lots of fun and joy!

p.s.

On the left side of the home page I have added the box with several patterns in .pdf  for your easier download and work.

Posted on 88 Comments

Sleeping buddies, lavender stuffed doll

This week was inspired by my first doll I ever got (had). Was a plush, red, patch doll think is called in English, with rubber face. Was one of those you take for sleeping. Soft and cuddly. This week remembered that doll again, and said, why not making one. In my yarn stash had this ball of very old white cotton yarn. Even the way it looked you could say  was very old. That was inspiring as well. “Vintage” looking doll, old yarn to go with..could not be better.

Added few details at the end and came up with this little one. Rice stuffed dolls - 11

Little sleeping buddy doll in cow pijama. Topic of this post is sleeping buddies stuffed with rice/lavender. This doll is stuffed with rice and fiber fill  stuffing. As I was stuffing the doll, was stuffing her in layers, mixing rice and fiber fill together. Only the head is stuffed with fiber stuffing all the way (but because had this head made some time ago).

The first doll was done! Now I had to try out the pattern and make new doll. Used tiny bits of different colors, to match the yarn weight and gauge. Basically left over yarns I found, but were the same producer. In second try I got the pattern done completely and finished doll looking like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 10

Difference at this one is the filling. This doll is mainly stuffed with rice. Fiberfill is added on top of each part for easier closing and sewing the parts later. I must say that this dolls fills great when held in hands, and I like her the most. It is heavy, when you squeeze her you can feel the rice grains inside and is fun to touch and play with.  Head I stuffed with fiberfill at this one as well. To be honest, wasn’t in the mood to experiment with rice. 🙂

While working on the second doll, this idea of stuffing the doll with lavender crossed my mind. While having breaks, took a trip to wardrobe in search of the lavender bags hiding there. Picked up fw, took the lavender out and now had to make one more doll to try this out! Lavender stuffed doll!

Rice stuffed dolls - 09

That is why the third doll is all flowery looking 😀 She is lavender one!

Stuffing it just with lavender doesn’t work. I was using last years lavender, and was pretty dry and light weight. You can’t really “stuff” the doll. Furthermore, lavender breaks and makes dust. To avoid this breaking of lavender and dusting, again used the layers stuffing method. Little bit of stuffing, little bit of lavender and at the end you get this beautifully nice smelling soft doll, what makes ideal sleeping buddy.

Here are all three of the dolls made together 🙂

Rice stuffed dolls - 07

Think we can start with the pattern. I am giving you the basic pattern, no details on the flowers or cow pijames.

Even the colors I didn’t mention in the pattern, so you can work based on own wishes or yarn availabilities. Important is to keep the yarn weight same or very similar.

Here is the Rice/Lavender stuffed Doll pattern:

Abbreviations (US terms):

Sc: Single crochet

St: Stitch

Inv.dc: Invisible decrease

Ch: chain

Materials used:

5ply or sports weight yarn in different colors

2mm crochet hook

black embroidery thread

embroidery needle

4mm round beads for eyes (if you are making the doll for babies, use safety eyes or sew the eyes on the face. do not use beads!)

Head

R1: Sc6 n magic ring (6)

R2: 2sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24)

R5: *2c in one st, sc3* x6 (30)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36)

R7-R10: sc36

R11: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42)

R12: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48)

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54)

R14-R16: sc54

R17: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x6 (48)

R18: sc48

R19: *inv.dec1, sc4* x8 (40)

R20: *inv.dec.1, sc2* x10 (30)

R21: *inv.dec.1, sc1* x10 (20)

R22:  inv.dec. x 8, sc4 (12)

Tie off. Stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

Ch12

R1: starting from the secong ch from hook, sc10, 3sc in one st (turn around),  sc9, 2sc in one st.

R2: 2sc in ne st, sc9, *2sc in one st* x3, sc9, *2sc in one st* x2 (30)

R3: sc1, 2sc in one st, sc10, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc10, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st. (36)

R4: sc2,  2sc in one st, sc11, *2sc in one st, sc2* x2, 2sc in one st, sc 11, 2sc in one st, sc2, 2sc in one st. (42)

R5-R14: sc42

R15: sc2, inv.dec.1, sc11, *inv.dec.1, sc2* x2, inv.dec1, sc11, inv.dec.1, sc2, inv.dec.1 (36)

R16: sc36

R17: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc10, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc10, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (30)

R18: sc30

R19: inv.dec.1, sc9, inv.dec. x3, sc9, inv.dec. x2 (24)

R20: sc24

R21: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc4, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc4, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (18)

R22-R23: sc18

R24: inv.dec.1, sc3, inv.dec. x3, sc3, inv.dec. x2 (12)

R25:  sc12

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body with the head. Stuff the body well.

Legs  (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3:  sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st (24)

R4- R6: sc24

R7: *inv.dec.1, sc10* x2 (22)

R8-R9: sc22

R10: *inv.dec.1, sc9* (20)

R11-R12: sc20

R13: *inv.dec.1, sc8* x2(18)

R14-R15: sc18

Stuff the leg. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 8 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the leg to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Arms (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3-R5: sc18

R6: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x2(16)

R7-R8: sc16

R9: *inv.dec.1, sc6* x2(14)

R10-R11: sc14

R12: *inv.dec1, sc5* x2(12)

R13-R14): sc12

Stuff the arm. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 5 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the arm to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Hood

Ch51

R1-R18: sc50

Fold piece in the half, and stitch across side, through both stitches, making 25 st along the way.

Cut the thread and tie off at the end.

Ch60, and with needle pass and pull trough stitches on the bottom of hood (as shown on the photo).

Cut off the access yarn, hide the ends, flip the hood inside out and is ready to be placed on dolls head.

I like to fold out one row in the front of the hood. Find it nice looking on dolls head.

Here is how your crocheted piece for hood will look like: Rice stuffed dolls - 01

Now fold it in two like this and stitch 25sc through both sides (two stitches at same time):Rice stuffed dolls - 02Now ch60, yarn over embroidery needle and sew through the stitches at the bottom of the hood, pulling the chain you crocheted thorugh those stitches:

Rice stuffed dolls - 04

At the end the hood will look like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 05Rice stuffed dolls - 06

Assembling the parts together:

Sew he body and the head together.

Decide where the front/back will be so can start positioning and sewing the legs. Sew legs between the 4th and 5th row counting from the bottom (first, starting row). Leave one stitch between each leg.

Place arms on the sides of the body. Sew them nicely through 5 stitches we have made while finishing the arms.

Designing the face: 

Place the eyes, between between rows, 11-12. Leave 5 stitches between them

Embroider the smiling mouth. Without mouth doll looks great as well.

For any details on the face, or on the body, free your mind and play! 😀

At the end place the hood on doll’s head and your sleeping buddy is done!

Hope you enjoyed reading this and will enjoy making the doll! Make as many as you wish for your family and friends. Let me know what you did for stuffing, how the work went and what was your experience with the pattern.

If you will encounter any mistakes done, let me know, and will correct them immediately.

Thank you all for your time spent reading my post!Rice stuffed dolls - 08

P.S.

I have forgotten to mention few details.

Finished size of the doll is 16 (hight) x 8 (width) cm / 6 x 3,5 inches  (if done with sport weight yarn and 2mm hook, as I did)

The work is done in continuous round (at least it is how I did it, you do it the way you like and prefer).

After each row is finished, continue without slip stitching or chain one. Mark the beginning of each row  for easier counting and pattern following.

Posted on 27 Comments

Karla’s Hats

Since published Little Karla Girl pattern, many times have been asked about different hat patterns for the little Karla. Blame it on me for not posting more back then, but when I crochet, I crochet without any pattern and usually don’t write what I am dong. So I end up repeating same doll and same pattern several times before it “hits” me that I could write it down for some future use. 🙂

Since I started with this blog, I do try to write down all I do. Even first time doing it. Now need time writing it all nice and readable 😀 Let us get back to what we have started here; hats for little Karla doll. You all met Karla. Since last time you saw her, her hair grew a little, but still not enough to take the hat off 😀 Will show you, her recent photos, but please, if you will must laugh, turn your head around and laugh quietly. We really did our best to comb and make nice hair style for photo shooting today.

So here comes Karla:

Karla Hats - 04🙂 we said no laughing loud!!!!

Today, tried to make up few hats together with patterns, so all of you that asked for something different to put on Karla’s head, now have few options to choose from.

Here are hats I have made today.

Karla Hats - 26These are really basic models and very, very simple to make. You can use them to make so many different styles. Once you’ll start and let your imagination lead you, you will see how it becomes never-ending story (when it comes to creating something new 🙂 So do not hesitate, take your little Karla, some yarn and needle and start creating new hats for this little one! Let’s continue with the hat patterns!

Starting with little mint green hat.

Karla Hats - 06

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: *slip stitch, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slip stitch*  repeat all the way around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lilac (purple) hat

Karla Hats - 16

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: 2Hdc in each st around, front loop only (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pastel Yellow Hat

Karla Hats - 11

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16: 2hdc in each st around (84)

Round 17: Hdc in each st around (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Elf green HatKarla Hats - 18

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2-3: sc in each st around (6)

Round 4: *2 sc, sc in next st* repeat 3 times (9)

Round 5-6: sc in each st around (9)

Round 7: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (12)

Round 8-9: sc in each st around (12)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 1 st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 11-12: sc in each st around (18)

Round 13: *2 sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 14-15: sc in each st around (24)

Round 16: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 17.18: Sc in each st around (30)

Round 19: *2sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 20: sc in each st around (36)

Round 21: * 2sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 22: Sc in each sc around (42)

Round 23: *2sc, sc in next6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 24: sc in each st around (48)

Round 25: *2sc, sc in next 7st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 26: *2sc, sc in next8 sc*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 27-28: sc in each st around (60)

Round 29: *inv.dec., sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 30: *inv.dec., sc in next 7 st, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 31: *in.dec., sc in next 6 st, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 32: reverse single crochet around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

For those that don’t know how to make reverse single crochet stitch, here is little tutorial. If I could learn from this, so will you!http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-reverse-single-crochet-stitch.html

And final one is Teddy Bear hatKarla Hats - 22Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: Hdc in each sc around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Nose

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-5: sc in each st around (18)

fasten of and leave long end for sewing the nose to the hat.

Ears

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-6: sc each st around (18)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing ears to the hat.

Sew nose and ears to the hat. Glue some black cloth pieces on the top of the nose and in place of eyes (or sew them on with black thread).

This way you can make polar bear, duck, panda, koala, frog….so many different animal hats.

The tiny flower used on the hats you can make as follows:

Round 1: sc5 in magic circle

switch color if you wish to make two color flower

Round 2: *slip stitch to next st, ch2, hdc in same st, ch2* repeat 5 times

fasten off, leave long end for sewing the flower to the head.

Karla Hats - 12If you have any idea of new hat pattern you would like to see, or have a pattern you would like to share with us, let me know! Send me e-mail, or post a comment!

Till next time… happy hats making 😉

Posted on

WheeWhee is free to download. Happy amigurumi making 🙂

Posted on 5 Comments

Free amigurumi pattern! Little Karla Girl

Posted new, free amigurumi pattern, Little Karla Girl you can find under Free Patterns and Tutorials page.

Image

Don’t forget to share you version of Little Karla with us! 🙂