Last week I announced doll I was working on, zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.
In most of European countries, the February is month of carnivals.
“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)
I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course, because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉
All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!
Here is zombi me
This doll was made from my second try.
FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.
Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀
Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.
Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.
Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.
Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.
The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.
Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.
This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but now I know more and will share it with you.
Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.
What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.
Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.
They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.
My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.
Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.
You can use it all year round, not only for Valentine’s day! Make a personalized card to give with present or send to an old and far away family or friend.
Use it as a key holder or business cards keeper. I am sure you will think of something more to use it for.
I am going back to work. Have zombi Vanja to finish 😀 Yes, working on a zombi doll pattern from Jennifer and SquirrelPicnic blog.
This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.
Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.
Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.
To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. As you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.I have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.
Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).
Materials needed:
Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress
The rest of the doll (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.
Matching hook
Stuffing
Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.
Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.
If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).
Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.
Embroidery needle
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)
Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)
** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)
Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)
R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count
R2-R21 Sc15
Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)
R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)
R23 *dec1, sc1* x5 (10 sts)
R24 Sc10
R25 Dec5 (5 sts)
Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.
Next arm:
Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm
Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)
Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.
I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.
Body
Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.
Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.
R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)
R2 Sc34
R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)
(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)
R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)
R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)
R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)
R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)
R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)
R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)
Change color for panties
R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)
R11-R16 Sc42
R17 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.
First we will sew the body.
Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)
Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).
Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.
Legs x2
Ch6
R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.
Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.
Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.
Hair
Color of your choice
Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn
Sc5 in magic ring
R1 inc5 (10 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)
R8-R17 Sc40
R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)
R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)
R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)
R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)
R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)
R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)
R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)
R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)
R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)
R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)
Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)
sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.
Pony tails can be made many ways.
We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.
Simple buns (blue haired doll)
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 sc12
R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4-R6 sc18
R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
Stuff the bun well
R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.
Longer buns (orange haired doll)
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)
R2 sc9
R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)
Stuff the first part
R4 inc6 (12 sts)
R5-R7 sc12
R8 dec6 (6 sts)
Stuff second ball
R9 inc6 (12 sts)
R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R11-R12 sc18
R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R14 dec6 (6 sts)
Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing
Dress
Ch29
Sc28
Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)
Dc42
Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)
Dc56
Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)
Sc32
Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)
Dc48
Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)
Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds
Ch2, dc64 x5
Change color
Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around
Eyes and creating dolls face
Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.
To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.
If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.
Crocheted eyes:
With black embroidery thread
Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch
Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown
Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)
Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.
For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.
For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.
Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.
Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.
You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.
You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.
Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.
Place the lips two rounds below the nose.
Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.
Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).
And that it is! Your Moosha is done!
Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.
Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!
Marsupilami is a fictional comic book species created by Andre Franquin, first published on 31 January 1952 in the Franco-Belgian comics magazine Spirou.
You can visit YouTube and look for Marsupilami cartoons and have lots of fun and laugh at his jungle adventures 😀
After that you can take your yarns and hook and make one for yourself and have fun every day watching this silly creature gooofing around your room with his silly face, long bouncing ears and tail.
Marsupilami was done few weeks ago, but was waiting for my friends from the Facebook group to finish trying out the pattern so the final pattern comes out with as little mistakes as possible.
One more look of to Marsupilami and we can get started with the pattern.
Materials needed
Matching yarn and hook accordingly you will need
crochet hook (I used 2,5 mm and DK-medium weigh cotton yarn)
yarn:
– yellow,
– light peach (beige),
– little bits of white and black (for eyes and nose)
Embroidery & darning needles
Stuffing
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)
Dec – decreasing stitch (two stc stitched together, I used invisible decrease)
** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)
R – round
Cluster stich – 2dc under same stitch; follow the link for explanation and how to.
Work is done in continuous rounds (spiral work). Use marker for easier round following.
Head
Using yellow yarn
Ch6
R1 sc4 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)
R9 sc54
R10 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)
R11-R14 sc60
R15 *dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)
R16 sc54
R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R18 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)
R19 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
R20 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)
R21 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)
R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
Stuff the head nice and firm.
R23 *dec1 sc1* x6 (12 sts)
Tie off. Stuff the head some more if needed.
Feet-legs-body
Feet and hands are done with light peach or beige color yarn, while the rest is crocheted with yellow
First make leg fingers
Start working with light peach color yarn or beige
Make 2
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R4 sc6
Tie off
Make one (middle finger)
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R5 sc6
Tie off.
And the last finger we won’t tie off but will continue
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R4 sc6
R5 bring middle finger (longer one) and continue with 3sc over middle finger, bring the next finger. You will make 6sc over this finger, working around the finger pointing to back side of middle finger direction; continue stitching 3sc of middle finger; now back to finger we have started from, making 6sc. Round is finished with total of 18 sts (18 sts)
R6-R7 sc18
Stuff the fingers at this point.
R8 at this round we will connect thumb sc3, now sc3 through thumb and working piece (in order to connect them), sc12 (18 sts)
R9 sc3, sc3 just over thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc12 (18 sts)
R10 sc10, ch1, turn
R11 sc14, ch1, turn
R12 sc7, ch1 fold the last row in half and slip stitch through 7 stitches (this can be difficult as the piece is small, if you find it easier, you can sew the back instead).
What we have done here, is closed the foot. Now it is round, opened only on top side, where we’ll continue with crocheting the leg.
Reaching the end – closing the back of the foot (after 7 sts made) change color to yellow.
Add more stuffing to the foot and continue stuffing the leg as you go.
R13 make 12sc around the top edge of the foot made (continue working in continuous rounds)
R14 sc12 back lops only
(this is in case you want to ad fringes to ad more fur looking body. It is optional. I have made back loops on all, legs, arms and neck, but added fringes only around neck area.)
R15-R28 sc12
Note: to add knees make 3cluster stitches (each with 2dc) in the front area of the round 19.
At the end of R28 tie off and cut ends.
This leg we have just made was right side one.
Here are the instructions to make left side leg (the foot makes the difference)
Left foot
Start making leg as written above. Changes on the pattern will start at R8.
R8 sc7, sc3 through both –thumb and working piece stitches, sc8 (18 sts)
R9 sc7, sc3 just through thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc8 (18 sts)
R10 sc1, ch1, turn
R11 sc14, ch1, turn
R12 sc7, ch1 fold these tow rows you worked at in half (right sides facing each other)
Continue with the pattern as written above, but don’t cut the thread and tie off.
Legs finished,
making body:
Connect legs
R1 Ch3, continue making sc on right leg; sc12, sc3 (over the back side of chain made at start) sc12 (left leg) (30 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R3-R12 sc36
R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)
R14-R15 sc30
R16 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)
R17-R21 sc24
R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
R23 sc18
Stuff the body nice and firm.
R24 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R25 sc12 back loops only
R26 sc12
Finish stuffing the body. Ad some more stuffing at the time when sewing head and body together to make the neck part nice and firm.
Arms x2
Firs make fingers
Each hand will have four fingers. Middle finger is one round longer.
Make2 (for each hand)
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R4 sc6
Middle finger
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R5 sc6
Last finger to go:
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2-R4 sc6
R5 bring middle finger and stitch over it 3sc, bring next finger and sc6, (continue working around the fingers as you go), sc3 over middle finger previously added, sc6 over starting finger (18 sts)
R6-R7 sc18
Stuff fingers.
R8 connecting thumb round (both arms are the same) – sc5, sc3 through double stitches (thumb and working piece), sc 10 (18 sts)
R9 sc5, sc3 (thumb only) sc10 (18 sts)
Change color to yellow
Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm as you go.
R10 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R11 work in back loops only if wish to add fringes on hands *dec1, sc4* x2 (10 sts)
R12-R31 sc10
To add elbows, make 3 cluster stitches with 2dc each. Add them around rounds17-18.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Eyes x2
With white yarn
Sc5 in magic ring
R1 inc5 (10)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)
Ti off leaving long end for sewing
Black pupils are placed in the inner sides of eyes, between rows 2-3. I have painted mine, but if you are using safety eyes or beads this is the place where to position them.
White eye parts are placed next to each other on the upper half side of the head. (eyes and mouth piece will meet on the middle of the head (so pay attention to that).
Nose will be placed the way to touch the outer eye line and will go through 4-5 rounds over the mouth piece.
Nose
With black yarn
Ch8
R1 sc6, 3 sc in one st, sc5, 2 sc in one st (16 sts)
R2 *inc1. sc1* x8 (24 sts)
R3 sc24
R4 *dec1, sc1* x8 (16 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose on the head. Stuff the nose well.
Place and sew the nose as described above.
Mouth-facial piece
With light peach or beige
Ch6
R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1 sc5* x6 (42 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Ears
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4-R8 sc24
R9 *dec1, sc10* x2 (22 sts)
R10 sc22
R11 *dec1, sc9* x2 (20 sts)
R12 sc20
R13 *dec1, sc8* x2 (18 sts)
R14 sc18
R15 *dec1, sc7* x2 (16 sts)
R16 sc16
R17 *dec1, sc6* x2 (14 sts)
R18 sc14
R19 *dec1, sc5* x2 (12 sts)
R10-R17 sc12
Flatten the ears, tie off leaving long end for sewing them on the head later.
Belly
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 Inc6 (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing
Position the belly on the lower side of the body and sew it nicely.
Tail
Sc6 in magic ring
R1-… make tail as long as you like using 6sc Marsupilami has very long tail. I suggest making it 26 cm (12”). That size won’t make it too long and will still be nice and long.
Last 5 rounds *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts), next 4rounds stitch 8sc for firmer tail body connection.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Time to sew all body parts together.
Connect head and body. Sew on the arms. Place them around rounds 24-25. Round 25 needs to be left free as you will put additional hairs here to create fur around neck.
At the end place on and sew the ears. Sew them on top sides of the head, rounds 5-6.
When sewing use one round stitches on the head and sew through both loops of the ears. Try to make them point upwards so ears can appear fluffy and in motion.
At the end sew the tail on.
Position it centered on the lower back side of the body, 5-6 rounds upwards from feet connected round.
What is left is to embroider black spots on it’s body.
Making fur around neck (arms and legs) is optional.
As you could see, I left front loops on arms, legs and around neck area. I have put on these extra hairs around neck only.
It is done as making hair. You will hook and knot yarn pieces through front loops, and when all done, trim it in V shape (longer points in front and back).
I have also added a fish Marsupilami holds in his hand. You can add it as well if you wish.
We have to finish our toy with one more tiny detail and it is fish Marsupilami is holding.
Fish
With same size hook and yarn of your choice
Make 2 (tail fins)
Sc4 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R3 dec4 (4 sts)
R4 connect both fin pieces, making 8sc around
R5 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x2 ( 14 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)
R9 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)
R10-R12 sc20
From next round we’ll start decreasing so start stuffing the body as you go.
R13 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)
R14 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)
R15 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)
R16 dec4 (4 sts)
By now fish should be stuffed well. Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle with excess yarn and close the last round nicely.
Upper fin, slip stitch to 8th round top stitch on the body (work through top stitches of rounds8-5) ch1, hdc in same st, 2dc in next two sts, hdc in 4th st and sc in same
Tie off, hide ends
Lower side fins
Here start at 7th round stitch; ch1, hdc in same stitch, 2dc in next st, hdc &sc in third st (tie off, hide ends)
Repeat at both sides paying attention to make them as symmetrical as possible.
With white yarn and embroidery needle sew on the eyes. With black thread ad pupils on top of each eye.
Hope the fish was not difficult to make and it ended up cute.
And that’s it! Your Marsupilami is finished! Hope you have enjoyed making him and even more will enjoy playing!
Colleen, our blog neighbor made a wish; as this is kind of a year when wishes are fulfilled (for some at least 😉 ) I decided to add two more patterns in Christmas Ornaments group!
How could I ever forget to make Mrs. Claus!? Or penguin ornament!!!???
Felt so guilty that started to work as soon as I red Colleen’s message! 😀
If there is anything else I have forgotten to add, please, please let me know so we can make them in time!
Like said, Mrs. Claus and penguin ornaments are finished and ready for you to try them out! Easy and fast as previous ones.
Ready, steady, go!
Basic ornaments info and head pattern to make Mrs. Claus you can find here
together with the rest of the information regarding yarn, hooks…
Mrs.Claus’s head is made of two parts only. Basic head pattern and hat on which is attatche the hair as well. Make both, attatch one to another and Mrs. Claus will be done in no time.
You can use safety eyes, 4-5mm beads or embroider eyes with black thread.
Here is how hat and hair are made to finish Mrs. Claus
Mrs. Claus’s Hat
With red yarn
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)
R9 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)
R10 *inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)
R11 sc to every second stitch (33 sts)
R12 front looks only ch2 (counts as 1st dc), dc to same st, 2dc in each stitch around, slip stitch last dc to first chain made, attach white yarn
R13 ch2, slip stitch to next stitch, ch2, slip stitch to next…around
Tie off hide ands
Now add hair. We’ll add it to the hat, so once hat made, the had will be complete.
To back loops of R12, attach white yarn. Through next 12 stitches make single crochets (this will make the front of the hat, right above eyes)
The rest of the hat-hair make: ch8, slip stitch to next stitch, ch8, slip stitch…
When reaching first sc made earlier, slip stitch, tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat to the head.
Design face as snowman, or make Mrs Clous look the way you prefer. I used same facial features as ones used for Snowmen and Santas described in Christmas Ornaments post.
Lady Santa is done 😉
Next one is Penguin!
Penguin ornament
We will make same size basic head but this time will work in two colors.
White and color of your choice for the penguin.
Before we start, for those that don’t know how to change colors, let me say a word or two.
Whenver I will write “change color” – will count as one sc.
To change color, you will work with working color. Pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over with the working color yarn, pull it through the loop. Having two loops on the hook!
To finish the stitch, now change the color; yarn over new color yarn, and pull through both loops on the hook. Stitch is finished, yarn is changed.
Simple as this!
Start with white yarn
Sc 6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7 sc13 sts, change color, sc27, change color (42 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing (closing) the last round nicely. Hide ends.
Tiny hat
With red yarn
Sc 6 in magic ring
R1 sc6
R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)
R7 *inc1, scx7* x2 (18 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)
R9 reverse or crab stitch around
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat on the head (or if you prefer gluing, glue the hat on).
Pompom on top of the hat.
Made 1 cm wide pompom.
I made mine wrapping yarn over my index finger 20 times. Cut the yarn, threaded the needle, sewed and tightened the middle of pompom. Trimmed it and made it nice and round. Sewed it on top of the hat!
Beak
With yellow or orange yarn
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)
Tie off and sew the beak on the head, right beneath and in the middle of eye section.
Place eyes (I painted mine) in the centers of white section, little bit over beak level (one row upper).
And penguin ornament is done! 😉
Wishing you best of time making them! For any help….drop a line!
Wishing you lovely end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!
These three dolls were one of my first attempts when started crocheting dolls. Experimented a lot with different head shapes, hair styles. BB dolls came out of these little ones.
Have ben asked recently more than just few times for the pattern on how to make these dolls. Instead of writing separate mails and sending them, decided to share the pattern for all and make it available as all of my patterns so far.
This one is really easy and fast to do. For those that have tried making BB dolls will see that only the shape of the head and hair is different.
Suggest you work with fine cotton yarns (DK to be the maximum weight to use), together with 2-2,5 mm hook (depending what yarn you will work with).
Dolls are small, only 5 inches (12 cm) tall, and were created as pocket or girl back pack/bag dolls. Ones girls can carry all around.
I don’t have all the photos made to show you all of dolls I have made in such way, but they turn out when crazy colors are used for hair; like green, pink, purple. It gives them this bright and cheerful appearance that girls like very much.
Let us start with the pattern (so you can get started making them )!
Abbreviations (US terms):
R – round
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch (stitches)
inc – increase (two stitches in one stitch)
dec – decrease (invisible decrease or two stitches together – I used invisible decrease making these dolls)
** – repeat what you find between
HEAD
Ch6
R1 Sc4, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain – sc3, 2scin one stitch (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R8 sc48 sts
R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)
R10-R13 sc54 sts
R14 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R15 sc48 sts
R16 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)
R17 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
R18 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)
R19 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)
R20 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
start stuffing the head at this point.
R21 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
Tie off, finish stuffing the head nice and firm
HAIR
In the photos below, I made sample of two same size hair pieces, placing them evenly on each side of the head. You can play and make them differently. You can make one bigger, the second one smaller making hair look as combed on side. You can make one big one on top of the head with pony tails on each side or just one on top of it. It is really up to your wishes, likes and desires.
Here is just a sample on how it goes for you to understand on how to play later.
Hair is done out of two “discs” and two tessels.
Discs (make2):
Ch6
R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue working around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hair piece on the head later.
Tassels
Proceed shown on the photos.
I used an old embroidery thread cardboard, that was about 3 cm wide (1,3 inches) to make a tassels. So before everything cut a piece of cardboard of desired length to use to make tassel.
Once you prepare the cardboard or anything you can wrap your yarn over, wrap the yarn over the “tassel maker” 30 times (less or more… depends on how thin or thick your yarn is or how you want your tassel to look). I wrapped 30 times.
Cut the yarn leaving long end and thread the needle (as seen in photo above).
Now what you have to do is push the needle through the middle of wrapped yarn (close to cardboard you go). Once gone through, make a knot you will tighten when pulling the yarn.
Now take the tassel of the cardboard and make few more knots like this, pushing through the middle of the tassel, making knot and pulling.
Once done, you will see your tassel becoming firm at the end where you have sewed. Now try to push the needle through the yarn on top of the tassel (one you sewed while making knots). make three-four knots on top of it.Your tassel is finished and ready to be sewed on head now.
If you will find it difficult to follow (because I am very bad describing and specially bad taking photos) please try to google on how to make tassel in order to find instructions for your better understanding.
Once done with all four pieces, pin them all on the head the way you like and sew all around.
In order to make one big piece of “disc” on top of the head, start making the disc as described in above pattern but increase evenly every round by 6,until you make 54 stitches total count. You can add two more rows 54 to finish the piece and make it fit nicely the head.
For one bigger one smaller; start as described in the pattern above, bigger disc make with last round stitch count 48, and the smaller counting 24 or 30 stitches.
LEGS & BODY
Make legs first, then join them together and continue making body.
Leg1:
Start with shoe color of your choice
6 Sc in magic ring (6 sts)
R1 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
R2 *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 sc18
R4 dec6, sc6 (12 sts)
R5 dec3, sc6 (9sts)
Stuff the bottom of the leg.
Change color of the thread and continue with R7.
R6-R15: sc9
Tie off; stuff the leg.
Repeat the same for Leg2
Body
At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together. Fingers/heals pointing same directions.
R16 Stitch all around making 18 stitches around.
R17-24 sc18
R25 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R26-28: sc12
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.
Stuff the body nice and firm.
ARMS X2
Sc6 in magic ring
R1-R5 sc6
Change color
R6-R9 sc6
Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.
DRESS
R1 Sc18 in magic ring (don’t close the ring completely) or stitch over piece of bow or yarn you can tie in front later
R2-R3 18 sc
R4: *inc1, sc2* x6 (24)
R5-R6: 24 sc
R7: *inc1, sc3* x6 (30)
R8-R9: 30 sc
R10: *inc1, sc4* x6 (36)
R11: 36 sc
Change color
R12: *ch2, skip one, sl st* repeat all around
Tie off and hide ends.
Assembling the pieces together
Put the dress over the body and sew head-body parts together. Add some stuffing between head, body so the head doesn’t flop around. Sew on the arms. When done with body, you can start sewing the hair pieces together. Place and pin discs on top of the head. Sew them nicely all around. Place and pin tassels the way you want them to be and sew them nicely.
Designing the face:
Embroider the eyes or if you are using safety ones place them in between rows 9-10 (embroider over round 10).
Embroider mouth right below round 12.
Your new doll is done! Quick and easy, isn’t it!?
I hope you will enjoy making her and your daughters and granddaughters will love playing with her.
I know many of you will say how it is early to even start thinking about Christmas but I had to in order to get all things done before the “fever” starts.
In most of European countries the Saint Nicholas day, december 6th is celebrated and is big event for children, as this Saint is gift bringer (and not to forget all the yummy cookies made for that day). Most of the Christmas fairs all around European main city squares will be opened at this time of year….it is just wonderful time of the year!
For all of us crafters that means lots and lots of work and preparations before December 6th!
Now you can understand how I didn’t start early! I started right on time!
Before I continue with my ornaments would like to add link to Christmas patterns made by my dear blogger friend Serah. She designed little Teddies caring tiny stockings and those are something you should check out (if you already haven’t) and try to make them this year. Here is her link:
I have thought of few easy designs do be made. I have to make them easy in order to make them fast so I can finish them in time and prepare the sale during Christmas fair.
As I like to share what I come up with and try to encourage all of you to try making the same, have written the patterns for these little ornaments hopping you will have time to make them for you family and friends or if you a crafter and will sell this year, will have time to make them for sale (if you will like them at all!)
I have taken the photo of my tiny ornaments, placing them on one blue/black coral branch for you to see. Here they are. Some are finished (those hanging) and some are still in progress
All are done out of one basic head pattern and then the hats have made all the work. With reindeer is little bit more work to do with the horns but the final result is worth all the trouble.
As you can see there are Santa’s helpers, Santas, Gnomes, Snowmen, Gingermen and Reindeers…
You can use these heads and Little Karlas bodes for example, and make complete tiny dolls if you like to have doll ornaments, instead of just heads. I wanted something little, cute and fast to do so I decided to go with heads only.
The other option what can be done is mixing hats with heads and you will get many more combinations than ones presented here. If you will have time, play, enjoy making these little ones you kids will love and will make great addition to you christmas tree.
Think we can start with the patterns. Will give you as many details as possible. If you will have any further questions to ask, feel free to leave me message here or send me mail. Will be glad to help!
Materials used:
5 ply cotton yarn in various colors (white, black, green, red, brown light/dark)
Merino wool or any other wool suitable for brushing (for Santa’s and Gnome’s beard)
2 mm crochet hook
darning/embroidery needle
little tiny jungle bells for hats (if you can’t find these, make pom-poms or use bows, beads, buttons…)
4 mm round black beads for eyes
blushing powder (for cheeks)
textile glue (to make everything easier and faster)
5 mm wide satin ribbon
Polyester stuffing or any other of your choice
Abbreviations:
sc – single crochet (US terms)
ch – chain
inc – increase, two stitches in one stitch
dec – decrease, invisible decrease
2sctog – 2 stitches together decrease (used on beard only)
sl st – slip stitch
hdc – half double crochet (US terms)
Basic Ornament’s Head
color of your choice, depending what ornament you will make
Sc 6 in magic ring
R1 inc6 (12 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R7-R11 sc42
R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)
R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)
R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)
R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)
Begin stuffing the head.
R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R17 dec6 (6 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Sew/close the last row and hide ends.
Once you finish the head, and close the last round nicely and clearly, turn it up. The last row will be up (will be covered by hat later).
The eyes are placed in between rows 9-10 (but as you need to turn up the head, last row up, they will sit on the right place. Will be placed on the upper half of the head). This is for those that are using safety eyes. Place the eyes in between rows 9-10, leaving three-four stitches between them
For those that will sew the eyes as I did will be easier. Place the eyes between the second and third middle row (those of 42 stitches count).
With red yarn embroider the nose one row below the eyes.
Embroider or paint the lips and as final touch add blushing on the cheeks.
Elf’s hat (green top and bottom, white/red stripes)
Start with green yarn
Sc6in magic ring
R1-R2 sc6
Change color at the last stitch of the previous row.
You will change it following way. Push the hook through the stitch, yarn over and pull the working color yarn. Now you have 2 loops on the hook. Change yarn color at this point to one for the next row and pull thorugh both loops in order to finish single crochet stitch. Continue with next row. In the same way, continue changing the yarn color at every row.
R3-R18 sc6 (changing color at each row from R3-R37)
R19 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R20 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)
R21 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)
R22 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)
R23 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)
R24 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)
R25 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)
R26 *inc1, sc9* x2 (22 sts)
R27 *inc1, sc10* x2 (24 sts)
R28 *inc1, sc11* x2 (26 sts)
R29 *inc1, sc12* x2 (28 sts)
R30 *inc1, sc13* x2 (30 sts)
R31 *inc 1, sc14* x2 (32 sts)
R32 *inc1, sc15* x2 (34 sts)
R33 *inc1, sc16* x2 (36 sts)
R34 *inc1, sc17* x2 (38 sts)
R35 *inc1, sc18* x2 (40 sts)
R36 *inc1, sc19* x2 (42 sts)
R37 *inc1, sc20* x2 (44 sts) change color to green at last stitch
R38-R40 sc44 following way (one stitch back loop, next one front loop. Work this way for entire row. Overlap the bl/fl for the next two rows as well. If you start with back loop at the first row (R38) start every following row (39 & 40) with back loop stitch as well.
If this seems to complicated, stitch the last three rows in plain single crochet through both loops.
Elf’s Star collar
sc5 in magic ring
R1 inc5 (10 sts)
*sc1, ch5, starting at the second chain from hook sl st1, sc1, hdc2, slip stitch to next stitch* repeat until all 5 points of the star are made. Tie off, hide ends and sew or glue on the bottom of Elf’s head. Decorate with glitter, beads or anything you like.
Black Snowman’s hat
Sc5 in magic ring
R1 inc5 (10 sts)
R2 inc10 (20 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x10 (30 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x10 (40 sts)
R5 work blo sc40
R6-R7 sc40
R8 *dec1, sc6* x5 (35 sts)
R9-R11 sc35
R12 *dec1, sc5* x5 (30 sts)
R13-R15 sc30
R16 work flo *inc1, sc1* x15 (45 sts)
R17 sc45
R18 *inc1, sc2* x15 (60 sts)
Tie off hide end.
For hat decoration I used white/red twisted yarn pieces I placed under tiny crocheted wreath I made by making 8 sc in magic ring, slip stitched last to first stitch and tried not to close the ring to tight.
You can use beads, buttons, glitters, bows…play a little and experiment. Decorate the smiling snowman the way you like.
Santa’s hat
White yarn (I used Red Heart, Soft Merino yarn, but any yarn you can brush later or one that will give you fuzzy effect will work fine)
Sc6 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)
R2 sc9
R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)
Change to red yarn
R4-R5 sc6
R6 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)
R7 sc8
R8 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)
R9 sc10
R10 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)
R11 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)
R12 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)
R13 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)
R14 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)
R15 *inc1, sc9* x2 (22 sts)
R16 *inc1, sc10* x2 (24 sts)
R17 *inc1, sc11* x2 (26 sts)
R18 *inc1, sc12* x2 (28 sts)
R19 *inc1, sc13* x2 (30 sts)
R20 *inc 1, sc14* x2 (32 sts)
R21 *inc1, sc15* x2 (34 sts)
R22 *inc1, sc16* x2 (36 sts)
R23 *inc1, sc17* x2 (38 sts)
R24 *inc1, sc18* x2 (40 sts)
R25 *inc1, sc19* x2 (42 sts)
R26 *inc1, sc20* x2 (44 sts)
Change color to white
R27-R29 sc44 sts
Tie off, hide ends and brush well top of the hat and bottom edge.
Santa’s/Gnome’s Beard
ch17
we are making rows here, don’t forget to chain one before turning
R1-R2 sc16
R3 2sctog, sc12, 2sctog (14 sts)
R4 sc14
R5 2sctog, sc10, 2sctog (12 sts)
R6 sc12
R7 2sctog, sc8, 2sctog (10 sts)
R8 sc10
R9 2sctog, sc6, 2sctog (8 sts)
R10 sc8
R11 2sctog, sc4, 2sctog (6 sts)
R12 sc6
R13 2sctog, sc2, 2sctog (4 sts)
R14 sc4
R15 2sctog x2 (2 sts)
R16 sc2
R17 2sctog (1st)
R18 sc1 (tie off)
Gnome’s Nose
sc6 in magic ring
R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)
R2 sc9
add some stuffing
R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)
R4 flatten the piece and stitch through both sides (should make 2sc). Tie of leaving long end for sewing.
Instead of embroidering the nose, sew this one on the Gnome’s had.
Gnome’s hat – longer
In order to make gnome’s hat longer, what you will do is repeat each increased row. For example, if you increased working row is 8 sc, the next one you won’t increase, but will repeat same stitch count.
I suggest increasing+repeat way, maximum reaching stitch count 20 (otherwise the hat will be too long), then continue with increasing each line (as written in the pattern for Santa’s hat)
Gnome’s hat has no fuzzy edges, so make it all one colored. Add one or two extra rows at the end so the hat falls more over Gnome’s eyes.
Reindeer
Horns
Tiny Side Horns x2
sc4 in magic ring
R1-R2 sc4
Tie off
Top horn to start with:
Sc4 in magic ring
R1-R3 sc4
R4 sc2 attaching one of the smaller horns previously made (stitch through the loose horn and working horn), sc2 (on the working horn) (4 sts)
Starting as second chain from the hook: slst1, sc1, hdc1, 3hdc in last stitch, work around chain, hdc1, sc1, slst1
Tie off. To secure the knot at the end of the ear piece, I like to add drop of glue or drop of clear nail polish (this way don’t have to hide the end and ear finish with nice pointy look)
Nose
Ch4
R1 sc2, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain, sc1, inc1 (8 sts)
This week our adventure with smurfalicious smurfs continues.
For those who have seen Smurfs2 are familiar with two naughty surfs, Smurfettes brother and sister
Vexy and Hackus! Both were created by bad and evil Gargamel and have caused lots of troubles for Papa Smurf and the crew!
As you can see they are pigment-less and are grey, but that is still making them adorable Smurfs to add to your collection.
Pattern used to create these two little ones is the same as for basic Smurf/Smurfette. Different are the colors used and hair styles in order to achieve characteristic features for each.
If you will need help with shoe making you can always refer to Smurf Shoe Pattern for help.
I will be making new tutorial on how to attach the fingers and make hands to make it easiest possible for everyone to achieve best results when it comes to hand making.
hope you will enjoy these two naughty once same way as blue smurfs, and hope you will have fun making them too. For any help you will need, or question you might have, please feel free to write and ask.
Wishing you all happy Friday and even happier and more fun weekend!
This is the second one of my promises made last week. Still have one more to finish to be done with them all (Oopsie doll’s new outfit to make) 😉
if it wasn’t for Millylyly, who knows when these two would be created. I am glad she asked me to design boy’s hair. For starters made these two versions. Curly and strait, which are the two most common. Made in different colors, playing a little bit with length (if one likes) will give quite several hair styles for your dolls.
Boys are called BB Boys, because the head and the body (together with legs) are done the same way as BB Dolls. Differences made were at arms length; where these two have total count of 10 rows (by 6 stitches in each row), and instead of dress these two are wearing trousers; and off course HAIR!
For the time being don’t have the pattern for the trousers I trust would make good results each time made. Darker blue trousers were done with 1,75 mm needle and finer yarn and those look good and fit good. The the second ones (lighter blue) I made with same weight yarn I used for dolls, changed the row/stitch count to fit the body, but am not satisfied with result.
This week will work on the trousers pattern and will have it for you next.
Have to be honest that was afraid how to get this “boy’s” face expression using 4 mm black, wooden beads as I used for BB dolls, and after all using same pattern that was created for girl dolls in mind.
As you can see, boy’s eyes I placed closer. Instead of leaving 8 stitches space between them, they have only 4. Added embroidered nose, but this is optional.
One more photo of boys playing before we continue on hair pattern.
For both of the hair bases, classic oval shape of 30 stitches count needs to be done. I have made mine this way.
For both hairs is the same! Oval shape, 30 stitches count row before making the stylish hair cut!
ch6
R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue around the chain, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12 sts)
You will be making hairs out of each stitch of all 30 stitches row count.
Hairs are done our usual way, chain and slip stitches return. Once done with the base of the hair (30 stitches oval reached) continue the hairs following this chain(s) count
make:
12 x ch11 (those will make back of the head hairs) – starting from second stitch from the hook slip stitch following 10 stitches, reaching the end, slip stitch to next stitch on the base row and ch11 (repeat this for all of 12 stitches ch11, before continuing to ch10…..)
2 x ch10 -side hairs
2 x ch9 – side hairs
2 x ch8 – front hairs
2 x ch7 – front hairs
2 x ch8 – front hairs
2 x ch9 – side hairs
2 x ch10 – side hairs
4 x ch11 – back hairs
Finish off! Leave long end for sewing the hair to the head. You have made 30 hairs!
For the yellow hair style – curly one;
Once the base of the hair is made (as per the pattern on how to make the base and oval shape, above),
continue making curls in every second stitch of the base row.
here is how to do that. As you finish R4, slip stitch to the first stitch of R5,
ch16, starting at second stitch fro the hook inc15.
Once you reach the “base” slip stitch 2 following stitches, ch16 and repeat inc15
Here is the hair “length” count you have to do in order to get the right shape.
7 x ch16
6 x ch11
2 x ch16
Finish off leaving long end for sewing the hair to head.
Once done, sew the base of the hair to the head. Arrange the hairs the way you would like them to be/stay and sew or glue them. I didn’t sew the hairs! I used hot glue to fix them on the head.
If you will have problems understanding how the hair is made, let me know and will try to help. The procedure is very easy, but somehow I always make it sooooo complicated 😀
I am here to help you out, so do not hesitate to ask!
Wishing you all great end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!
As I said in the title, new fairies were born at my house this week 😀
I have really enjoyed every second of this week so far! Making Fairies is more than making crocheted dolls it is making fantasy world come true. Making magic!
Not all the time making dolls make me smile while I am working. This was more like playing and loving it! 😀
Looking at them, all three like this, together, even though they are fairies, and good ones, they seem as they’ve done something wrong and begging for forgiveness 😀
Good news is, I have finished the Fairy house, and have made two more fairies finishing the pattern for this doll as well. The fairies you have seen and here is the house, ready and waiting for my niece to come.
There is furniture inside, but the door started to crack and had to glue them in order to keep everything in one piece. Was hard for me to make a photo to show you interior of the house. With 0,4 mm wire I made tiny chair, table and baldehin bed. added seed beads in pink and purple, pink tulle for baldehin. Heart shaped carpet in white felt on the floor, tiny little pink felt pillow and blanket. Two paintings I glued on the walls….
It is cute. All is very tiny. Chair is less than 1 cm high so you can imagine what kind of work that was.
Every window has this fake glass (made out of clear plastic) so peaking can be done from the outside. Hardly, but hey…it is fairy inside and they are shy 😉
Will let you know what my niece will say when she sees the house!
Think we can continue with our fairies and the pattern. As you can see there are three different hair styles and I will try to give you pattern on how to make all of them. Possibilities on making the fairy are really endless. With this basic pattern and little of your imagination you can do miracles. And I really hope you will! Hope you will enjoy every second creating magic in your own home, making one of these cute ones.
Let us begin!
For the fairies I have used 2 mm crochet hook and Patons 100% cotton yarn, DK.
They ended about 16 cm tall
I also used golden and silver thread to add sparkle to the wings. Used some glitter on centers of the flowers I have added as details on hair or shoes.
You will also need little bit of liquid fabric starch to harden the wings and to form hair into better shape (I used fabric starch on ears as well).
Doll is made in continuous rounds (head, legs, body, arms)
If you will find anything you don’t understand in the pattern, let me know so can help you out.
Fairy Doll
Head
R1 Sc6 in magic ring
R2 Inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8-R12 sc42
R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts) – increasing part (inc12) will be your front face. Part where nose will be sewed and eyes placed (right above row)
R14-R16 sc54
R17 *dec1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R18 sc48
R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R20 *dec1, sc3* x10 (30 sts)
R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (20 sts)
At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.
R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)
Tie off. Stuff more if needed.
Sew the nose on the middle of row14, through 2 vertical stitches
Ears (make 2)
R1 sc5 in magic ring
Ch4 on 5th stitch made sl st1, sc1, hdc1 (to chain made)
R2 sc4, sl st1
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Ears will be sewn, on sides of the head. Starting row14 – 16 (downwards) and two stitches on row 16 towards back of the ear. You have to stitch 4 stitches in circle shape.
Legs & body
We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.
Legs and body are the same pattern as used for BB dolls.
Leg1:
R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)
If you wish to make flat shoes, with more of leg color showing, change color to skin color yarn you will use and continue from here. If you prefer making closed shoes, as ones we used on BB dolls, continue with shoe yarn color for the next three rows.
R4: 18 sc
R5: dec6, sc6 (12)
R6: dec3, sc6 (9)
Stuff the bottom of the leg.
(Change color of the thread if you haven’t on R3)
R7-R16: 9 sc
Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.
Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!
Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.
Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.
R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)
Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.
R18-R21
R22-23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)
R24-R25: sc18
R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)
R27 sc12 blo (back loops only)
Change color to skin color you use for the doll to make final two rows.
R28-R29: 12 sc
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.
Stuff the body.
Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.
Dress
With same color yarn you used to make the body, starting at R22
Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R22, ch1
R1 inc18 (38 sts)
R2-R6 sc36
Tie off, hide ends.
On R23 (we left with front loops as well) make a dress “decoration”.
You can use various edging stitches here. I used the most simple ones, but don’t let that stop you from making beautiful fairy dress you are dreaming of. If you have some nice edging stitch you would like to try out, this is great moment to do so.
I have made it this way:
Pink one: ch3, skip1, sl st, ch3, skip1, slst…..
White/blue one: Leave 6 stitches in front, start with making sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, dc1, hdc1, sc1, sl st1, *ch3, skip1, sl st* x5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, hdc1, sc1, sl st1. In front where 6 stitches were left, tie a bow or make some other decoration. You can even slip stitch those 6 stitches to connect sides…
Yellow/green one: at this one I forgot to left front loops 😀 So instead of crocheting directly on dress, I just made a chain and tide a little bow at front. It is loose.
Neck decoration (optional)
Use same pattern you have used for dress decoration.
Arms
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2-R8 sc6
Change color to one you are using for dress decoration.
R9-R10 sc6
Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.
Note:
Pink fairy’s arms are done completely in skin color yarn. Then the shoulders that were done making ch11, sc10 (with picoe at 5th stitch) were sewed at the dress (which was done differently. Is fitting the body, not done as part of the body making process).
I warmly recommend making the dress as shown above, rather than making the body and then dress separately, but you can do as you like it better of feel more comfortable with.
Hair
Yellow fairy
R1 sc8 in magic ring
R2 inc8 (16 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)
At this point we are making hairs. Each hair at one stitch around row 4
For the bangs:
ch16, starting at second stitch from the hook inc5, sl st10 – make 8 of them
The rest of the hair:
ch26, starting at second stitch from the hook in 10, sl st15 – make 24 of them
Pink fairy
Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.
On the back in addition are made ringlets for pony tail and bun to hold the ringlets.
Front hair piece:
R1 sc8 in magic ring (do not close the ring!!!)
Ch1, turn and continue with R2
R2 inc8 (16 sts)
Here we will have 16 hairs
At this fairy’s hair we have no ringlets. Every hair is done with chain and slip stitches on the way back.
I will indicate how many chain stitches there are for each hair, for all 16 there are to make this piece.
1 & 2: ch26 (25 slip stitches) – These two hairs (on each side) you will use to wrap and sew around back piece’s edge, behind the ear.
3. 4 & 5: ch17 (16 slip stitches) – Side hairs, placed in front of ear.
12, 13 & 14: ch17 (16 slip stitches – Side hair, in front of ear to be placed
15 & 16: ch 26 (25 slip stitches) – back hairs. Behind ear and to wrap to back piece.
Back of the hair:
Ch8
*Sl st3, sc2, hdc2*
Repeat ** stitching in BLO (back loops only)
Make 30 rows like this before closing.
Also check if the round piece fits your dolls head. Add row or two if necessary.
You will have a hole in the middle that we will use to make a pony tail
Ringlets for pony tail:
Ch36-41
I made 4 ringlets in different stitch count (from 35-40 stitches)
R1 inc each stitch
Reaching end of first ringlet, just chain again and continue making new one
Bun to close the hair piece hole and hold ringlets at place:
R1 Sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 sc12
Tie off leaving long end to sew the bun on
As you have finished all the hair pieces place them on the head. Pin them well before sewing.
Place ringlet’s (where they attach one to another) into the bun. You can use little bit of stuffing to tie them in the bun before sewing the bun on the head.
Now sew little by little. Starting with back of the hair and the ringlets. When that is done, decorate the front piece. Pin it how you would like hairs to go.
Here is my tip:
Sew the basic lines you wish hair to go and how to look.
The final touch you will get by using fabric starch to fix the hair look the way you want it. I used liquid one. Got my fingers wet and used it directly on the hair, forming it and modeling until I felt was good enough or the way I wanted it.
Use fabric starch at the end. When doll is completely done. Making the hair look nice is your final touch making the doll.
Blue fairy:
Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.
On the back piece, or better said the sides of it, two buns to hold the pony tails were added.
Front hair piece:
R1 sc5 in magic ring
R2 in5 (10 sts)
Now hair making of the chains from every stitch in row2 – 10 hairs
1, 2 & 3: ch21; inc10, sl st10 (20 sts) – two are going behind ear, one in front.
4: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear
5 & 6: ch 11; sl st10 (10 sts) – bangs
7: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear
8, 9 & 10: ch21; inc10, sl st 10 – one in front of ear, two behind
Back of the head piece:
Ch15
You will be working on both sides of the chain. Same procedure as with the front piece; chains and slip stitches back to create hairs.
In each of the 15 stitches chain 9- sl st8
When done connect each hair’s end with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.
Now repeat the same for the other side of the chain. 15 stitches, 15 hairs with ch9; sl st8. Connect the ends with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.
Pony tails:
Ch 26; inc15, sl st 10
Make three for each side
Buns to hold the tails:
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6
R3 sc12
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Wings
For wings I used the pattern you can find on the following link.
It is butterfly pattern and is very easy to be made. Please note that the pattern uses UK terms!
I was looking for firm but yet enough lacy kind of wings and these seemed perfect.
They really are!
I used fabric starch on them as well so they stay firm and really nice.
On two of the wings, pink and green fairy, together with white yarn I used a golden thread to make wings sparkling.
On blue fairy I used silver thread, what I liked more but unfortunately didn’t have enough of it for entire wings. Silvery was just about how I wanted it. Hardly noticed but yet was giving this little touch of magic. Golden thread is little more aggressive for my taste, but you do and use what you have available or like.
You can try with different butterfly patterns. There are no limits to ones imagination.
I always try to encourage you to try different things, to try adding something own to whole project. I am just giving you idea on what could be done.
In this case, possibilities to make the fairy are really endless. You can decorate her dress many, many different ways. You can add tiny details to her hair, shoes….
You can make hair many ways as well. Here are just three basic patterns that you can work on and make endless hair styles.
Make long big ringlets or make short hair fairy…
If you wish to bring magic to your finished doll….think magic….make it.
You can always ask me for any help. Will be glad to help you and share what I know and can.
Almost forgot to mention details I have made on the fairies such as tiny flowers, tiaras.
Flowers I used n the shoes:
Was looking for tiniest flowers I could do with same yarn used for entire doll, but whatever there from the patterns available or those I use often were to big.
So I ended up making this tiny flowers this way:
Ch3, sl st to 3rd ch from the hook, ch2, sl st to the same chain st….repeat to reach 5 petals.
You can do this with magic ring as well. Think it might be evenbetter (you can close the ring completely)
Start with sc1 in magic ring, ch1, sl st to magic ring and repeat until you reach 5 petals. Tie off.
Tiaras:
Both tiaras (on pink and green fairy) were done the same way. Pink one was done with thread so was very loose and had to put it on a wire to stay firm.
Green one was sprinkled with glitter after starched and placed on the head (I sewed this one on the head)
Both were done by making desired length chain
First row was done in single crochet
The second one was done ch3, skip one, sl st1, ch3…..
Flowers on blue fairy, one I used in hair were made my usual way.
Sc5 in magic ring
Sl st 5th to 1st
Ch2, hdc1, sl st to next st…
Repeat for all five petals
If I have missed anything or you wish to find out more, please feel free to write and ask.
I hope you will enjoy making these magic dolls! Make sure to share you photos with us!
This doll was made from my second try.
