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Waldorf Inspired Baby Doll

After almost one moth of break from new posts, returning with, I hope, lovable gift to you all.

New crochet addition to all Waldorf admirers.

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBB

Simple testing the head for this pattern has taken our little Facebook group into wonderful doll making adventure. Many new ideas opened and new patterns were created. 25 wonderful and kind ladies have applied to test the pattern. Those that finished came up with the most adorable little princess dolls 🙂 Some we still wait to finish their projects. If ladies agree I will post their photos for all of you to see.

What I am specially satisfied that not matter which weight yarn or size hook was used, the pattern worked well for all.

For the first time we have tried joining limbs with cotter pins, and making joints with whatever we could find at home. Instead of original discs, washers and cotter pins, we mounted cotter pins over buttons, and if cotter pins were not available, wire or paper clips were used. Please feel free to check on home made options on joints. Few photos and how the joints are done I have added HERE

My baby grew to little girl very fast. It is amazing how fast the kids grow these days!!! 🙂 Like mushrooms after the rain. One day I saw her bald and crying and the next one she asked for her hair to be done!

Waldorf Inspired baby by AmigurumiBB

The next day her friend showed ….

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBBKids!!!

🙂

The pattern is pretty long.

Pattern has several additions. I will try to explain what each of them will bring and you cna choose from.

Basic Waldorf Inspired Baby includes instructions on how to crochet baby’s body from head to toe.

This is what you will get with the basic Walsdorf Inspired Baby pattern:

Waldorf Inspired BabyThe pattern can be found and downloaded HERE

During testing the pattern, one of tester ladies and my dear friend wanted to make baby with open mouth, or the mouth baby can place her finger in, pacifier or baby bottle. Based on Waldorf’s baby head she made adjustments and came up with open mouth head which is absolute must have. I warmly recommend everyone to try this technique not just for this baby head, but for any of your baby heads in the future. Thanks to wonderful friend and generous and kind TB Cess, this pattern we can share as addition to basic Waldorf Baby.

Head with open mouth looks like this:

Waldorf Inspired Baby with open mouthand you can open and download it HERE

This head required more bent arms, so the hand and sucking finger can reach the mouth easily. For that reason I adjusted and added one more pattern for arms. Called it Sucking finger arms. You can make each arm different and still keep the same size and proportion of your baby. Rounds on both arms (one you can find in basic pattern and this one) are equal. The only difference is thumb crocheted separately and added later to position you prefer and position that matches baby’s mouth the best, and this arm is bent little bit more in the elbow.

Sample on these arms you can see here:

DSC_0003Pattern can be viewed and downloaded from HERE

Hair for Waldorf doll’s I made and I always make following Beth Webber’s photo tutorial. This is the best one on the web  I have encountered so far and all of you who are following me for long time by now, know that I keep repeating myself and suggesting By Hook By Hand blog any time I can, because Beth always inspires  me  with her doll creations. Her patterns and tutorials are easy to follow and yet all are masterly made.

Photo tutorial on how to make wig for your doll you can find HERE

Following this tutorial I have made simple wig cap, and here are few details.

DSC_0004DSC_0002DSC_0003What I have said to the ladies who tested the pattern, when working on the wig, so will tell you too. Same as with crochet work, in wig making and waving the hairs on, you have right and wrong side. While following Beth’s tutorial, pay attention on how the hairs are waved to the wig. It makes huge difference later. If you will need more help regarding this, please feel free to ask and I will make a short post, showing you through photos what exactly to pay attention to.

At the end what is left are the clothes.

Clothes are crocheted in No.5 thread and still using 2 mm hook. Writing pattern for babies clothes and making it perfect to fit everyone, if you ask me, is the hardest part for most of us who write patterns wishing the pattern will work the same for all.

For that reason I tried to make pattern(s) easy enough so each and every one of you can adjust the stitch count based on yarn and hook used. Important is to work with lighter yarn and adjust the stitch count accordingly. By any chance don’t try crocheting clothes with same weight yarn as doll was made of, or even worse, using heavier one. Clothes needs to be light and fluffy. For this doll I have tried to keep clothes old fashioned.

Created little girlish top,

DSC_0005DSC_0006Nice little pants that can fit the baby even if she wears diapers on,DSC_0007DSC_0008and sock looking booties.
DSC_0009All are very, very easy to make. You can view them or download them HERE

Little by little we came to the end 🙂 I hope I haven’t missed anything.

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new baby pattern, and even more I hope you will enjoy every second while making one.

For any questions, please feel free to write and ask.

Wishing you all happy, relaxing and blessed weekend.

Vanja

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Winter dolls…

It is never late to start preparing for the winter season and by season I mean Christmas! Have many ideas for new patterns this year and hope I will have time to make and share all of them with you.

Starting with my new Winter Dolls. Elf on the shelf and his mischief girlfriends are coming next and then if time, will show you little smiling snowflakes and this year’s additions to Christmas ornaments. 

Let us start with little Winter Dolls!

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB

Materials needed:

  • double knit cotton in desired colors (body, clothes, hair)
  • white yarn that fuzz well when brushed
  • 2 mm crochet hook
  • pair of 5 mm round black beads or same size safety eyes
  • darning needle (for sewing the parts together)
  • stuffing of your choice
  • slicker brush
  • textile glue (for hair)
  • cardboard pieces or anything else you can use for extra support in the soles of doll’s shoes.
  • Old pencils or wire (for extra support inside the legs)

Work in continuous rounds unless specified different. Try to make tough and firm stitches. Stuff firm!

When worked in DK yarn and 2 mm hook, finished doll measures 20 cm (7.9 inches)

Abbreviations used:

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

blo – back loop only

bpsc – back post single crochet

R – round/row

inc – increase (make 2 stitches in one stitch)

dec – decrease (make 1 stitch out of 2 stitches)

** repeat what in between by X times that follow right after

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB

Pattern instructions:

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R8 to R13 sc42 sts (each round)

if you are using safety eyes, your eyes will come in the middle of these two rounds (R13-R14). Make sure to mark the middle of the face (round below you will embroider tiny doll’s nose around 2-3 horizontal stitches). Leave 4-5 stitches between eyes.

R14 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R15 to R17 sc54 sts (each round)

R18 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48 sts

R20 *dec1, sc4 * x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2 * x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1 * x10 (20 sts)

start stuffing. Stuff the head nice and firm

R23 *dec2, sc1 * x4 (12 sts)

tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose and to do face sculpting if desired. Finish stuffing.

On how to needle sculpt doll’s face you can find here.

Legs (make 2)

ch6

we will work around the chain in order to create oval shape for the foot.

R1 sc4, 3sc in the last chain stitch, continue working around the chain, sc3, 2sc in the last chain st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc 3 sts, sc3, inc 2 sts (18 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1 (30 sts)

R5 working back post single crochet, sc30 (30 sts)

R6 to R8 sc30 (each round)

Using some scrap cardboard, create the sole for the shoe and place it inside. For additional firmness you can glue it to inside, on the bottom of the shoe.

R9 sc6, *dec1, sc2 * x4, dec1, sc6 (25 sts)

R10 sc4, *dec1, sc1 * x5 dec1, sc4 (19 sts)

R11 sc8, dec1, sc9 (18 sts)

R12 BLO 18 sts

R13 to R21 sc18 sts (each round)

stuff the bottom of the shoe very firm.

R22 BLO this round dec9 sts (9 sts)

R23 to R34 sc9 sts (each round)

Tie off. Before stuffing decide if extra support (wire or similar) will be added. Measure, cut and add together with stuffing.

Body

R1 Bring both legs together. Both pointing same direction. Mark three stitches on each leg, those that you will touching each other when legs brought together.

mark stitches

Slip stitch to the first stitch facing you (on either one of the legs, or either side), and chain 3 sts.

sl st, ch3, sl st to opposite leg

Bring the next leg close and slip stitch to the opposite stitch on the second leg, one that is closest and matching stitch you started the chain.

Slip stitch to the next stitch of the same leg. Chain one stitch, turn your work and single crochet 3 stitches on the chain you previously made).

Once done with 3sc, slip stitch to the middle stitch on the first leg. Slip stitch to the last stitch, chain 1 st, turn.

One more time, make 3 single crochet stitches (2 row on your chain, connecting legs).

Slip stitch to the remaining, third stitch on the opposite leg, chain one turn.

What we just did, we increased the gap between the legs, but we haven’t change the stitch count.

3 rows of 3 stitches added between legs

Now, stitch around making 18 stitches. (3 over space between legs, 6sc one leg, 3 space between legs, 6 sc second leg) (18 sts)

R1 of the body, both legs connected

R2 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)

T7 *inc1, sc7 * x6 (54 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc8 * x6 (60 sts)

R9-R12 sc60 sts (each round)

R13 blo 60 sc

R14-R15 sc60 sts (each round)

R16 *dec1, sc8 * x6 (54 sts)

R17 sc 54 sts

R19 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)

R20 sc48 sts

R21 *dec1, sc6 * x6 (42 sts)

R22 sc42 sts

R23 *dec1, sc5 * x6 (36 sts)

R24 sc36 sts

R25 *dec1, sc4 * x6 (30 sts)

R26 sc30 sts

R27 *dec1, sc3 * x6 (24 sts)

begin stuffing and continue as you go. Stuff the body as firm as you can.

R28 sc24

R29 *dec1, sc2 * x6 (18 sts)

R30 sc18

R31 *dec1, sc1 * x6 (12 sts)

R32 sc12 sts

finish stuffing the body, tie off leaving long end for sewing body to the head later.

Arms (make 2)

thumb (make thumb before starting the mitten)

R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)

R2-R3 sc5

tie off

mittens

R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)

R2 inc5 (10 sts)

R3-R4 sc10

R5 bring thumb, start stitching on the thumb first, sc5, continue stitching the mitten, sc10 (15 sts)

R6 blo sc15

R7-R10 sc15

From round 11 to round 20 decrease 1 each round. Stuff the arm as you go. Leave the top of the arm empty or stuffed very light.

R11 will make 14 sts

R12 13 sts

R13 12 sts

R14 11 sts

R15 10 sts

R17 9 sts

R18 8 sts

R19 7 sts

R20 6 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing arm to the body.

Here is how your doll should look before sewing her upwinter doll before sewing the parts togetherHair

starting from the magic ring

Each chain we make (4 of them) will start and return to this magic ring. Do not close the ring until the hair is done completely.

*sc1 in magic ring, ch31 – starting from the second chain stitch inc20, sc10* x4

R1 sc5 sts in magic ring, ch1, turn

R2 inc5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R7-R12 sc30 each row (ch1 and turn)

R13 *ch21, starting from second chain from the hook inc20, slip stitch to the next st, sc to next st* repeat until you make 15 curls.

Tie off. Close the magic ring. Hide ends.

Glue the hair to the head. Arrange fringes the way you like them to be.

Hat

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)

R9 blo48 sts

R10-R13 sc 48 sts

Fuzzy edgings:

        • dress
        • boots
        • hat
        • sleeves

Edgings can be done many ways.

  1. Crochet fuzzy ends directly on doll

I used mixture of mohair and acrylic yarn (that I brushed later), and crocheted it directly to doll, using front loops we left free on some rounds.

If you are going to do this, make sure yarn is similar weight to yarn you made your doll with, so your stitches don’t stretch to much being too small or they don’t end up bulky and much heavier than coat or hat or boots.

My yarn was much thinner and lighter that cotton I used for the doll, so I worked with two treads to reach desired thickness. I crocheted directly on the doll, making same stitch count of those front loops left and stitched each piece for 5 rounds. Brushed after I was finished.

2. Crochet stripes and sew them on the doll later

What you can do instead is to make stripes. Use the width of those 5 rounds we left on top of the boots, hat or sleeves.

Make the chain, measure it so the length fits your piece all around and make few rounds with single crochet stitch until you reach the width that suits your piece. If you are going to brush it. Brush it now, before sewing it on the doll. Then sew the stripe using front loops as your guide to position them evenly and sew nicely.

Using this method, what will be the easiest one for many of you, you can add any yarn you have available.

  1. Use scraps and pieces of wool leftovers (you can add them with glue or you can felt them on)
  2. Use scraps and pieces of some fuzzy fabrics you have

Suggestion: add the fuzzy yarn to your doll before sewing the parts together and if possible brush them before sewing as well. On the photo below you can see I brushed arms. Believe me that brushing legs was difficult with both of them stuffed firm and connected to the body. Try to avoid my mistake and brush legs before making body.

Winter Doll - AmigurumiBB

And that is it! Your Winter Doll is done. Hope you will enjoy this pattern and this Christmas surprise someone with one of these little cuties. For any help or questions you might have regarding this pattern, please feel free to contact me.

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBBWishing you all wonderful rest of the week! See you soon with something new! 

Vanja

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It’s Beer Time!!!! Happy OctoberFest!

This year I decided to celebrate the October Fest and drink a mug of beer accompanied with two of my little dolls. Last two months have been rather stressful and fun these two little ones brought in just few days is priceless!

I am still smiling and here is why:

DSC_0019

Meet Helga and Hans! They are both German, come form Munich and are OctoberFest fans!

Both dolls are made using FairyDoll’s pattern. Slight changes have been made on arms length, hair. Hans has more changes than Helga, because of the trousers but both of the patterns are easy and pretty fast to do. Both are must have for your collection. Both of the patterns are finished and written for you to start working and making your very own Helga and Hans.

Here are some closeups of both dolls:

DSC_0017DSC_0016DSC_0015You have to admit that Hans is very handsome fellow! His mustaches and great looking, very fashionable haircut are absolutely irresistible! 😀

While making this pattern, as I wanted to create real OctoberFest spirit. OctoberFest can’t be OctoberFest without beer and pretzels (but pretzel pattern I forgot, sorry), that is why I tried to make arms moveable a little in order for them to hold the mugs.

Dolls are small (15 cm high), this joining the arms is very simple and works fine on such small dolls. I have prepared little photo tutorial for you as well. In order to see and have better view, ope the photo and zoom in (for better text reading). Use this photo together with the pattern for better understanding how to add arms to your dolls.

Attaching arms on small dollsPattern for the dolls you can find here: Helga and Hans

I hope I haven’t made too many mistakes while writing and editing the pattern, but if such occur, please feel free to write and ask for help.

DSC_0012Hope you have enjoyed seeing these two little ones! Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and blessed weekend ahead!

Cheers from

Helga, Hans and Vanja

DSC_0014

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Step by Step photo tutorial on how to make a Fairy Doll

I have been asked a lot recently to teach and show how to make a doll. Was thinking of easiest way to do that and decided to make this photo tutorial and try to explain in details how this little doll is made. Pattern itself is very easy, but took me week of work, taking photos, painting and preparing for easy to follow HowTo you can find and download here.

Hope you will like it and find it useful.

Let me explain what you can find in each of these tutorials.

Part 1. – Head and body – Basic FairyDoll pattern in written and photo form. Photos tried to take on parts I thought, beginner might find difficult to understand. This part includes doll’s head, body, arms, dress and sewing parts together. All I know and how I work is explained inside. How to attach arms and much more.

Part 2. – Hair – this HowTo is following Easy Way To Make Fairy’s Hair. Step by step photos and description on how to crochet and make your doll hair beautiful

Part 3. – Painting Eyes – This part many have been waiting for since last year, when my first Fairies were released. Finally I made it 🙂 Step by step instructions on how to paint your dolls eyes. Addition to eyes, I added tips and trick on how to  add color on your doll’s cheeks and lips. One thing I forgot to add to this part and are designs I made for you to follow when paining eyes. Will add this photo with several eye designs under Help Page, so don’t forget to download that one as well.

And that is it, was lot of work from my side and is you turn to try and make your doll. 🙂

For any help and questions you might have, please feel free to write and ask. Most of the time I try to answer within few days, but lately was in delay sending replies to your mails. Please forgive me. Thank you for your patience. Will answer to each and every one during next few days.

Have fun making your doll(s) and don’t forget to send me photos of your work or share it with me and my friends on Facebook.

For now leaving you with two photos of doll I made while preparing this tutorial. She ended up so nice! I love those fairies!

You will also find the front pages of each of three  tutorial parts. Under each one is direct link to .pdf file from where you can save it to you computer.

Happy crocheting dear friends!

Wishing you all happy and blessed weekend

Vanja

Fairy doll Fairy doll Fairy HowTo Part1 Head and Body Fairy HowTo Part1 Head and Body Fairy HowTo Part2 Hair Fairy HowTo Part2 Hair Fairy HowTo Part3 Painting Eyes Fairy HowTo Part3 Painting Eyes

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Brave, Princess Merida

Hello dear friends,

This week presenting beautiful princess Merida.

Jo Merriman made this adorable doll based on my FairyDoll pattern, and you will all agree, she made wonderful job designing Merida. Thank you Jo for this great idea and pattern you share with us!

Merida by Jo Merriman

Materials you will need to make this doll can be any of your choice yarn with matching hook.

Yarn in flash color – peach or pinkish one will work great for princess Merida

For dress use some petrol green color, darker green or blue, all will work nice.

Bow and quiver make in brown (some leftover yarns will work well) – same color you can use to make Merida’s shoes.

Jo added tiny bits of beige on top of the dress and sleeves.

And orange to make Merida’s beautiful hair.

Darning needle for sewing, stuffing of your choice

2 black beads 4-5 mm round ones for the eyes.

 

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

Hdc – half double crochet

Dec – decreasing stitch

Inc – increasing stitch

 

Head

(flesh color yarn)

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

 

Legs & body

(You will need flash color yarn, brown-for shoes, and start with brown for shoes, green or similar for dress)

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body is the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

Start with brown

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

Change color to flash

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

 

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

 

Work with white or color you will use for dress.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: stitch around both legs making 18 stitches count. (18)

R18-R22

R23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 Either change to a separate color as in photos or change to flesh color. Sc6, insert hook in r below (1st pic) yarn over and pull long loop, insert into same sc and create a second long loop into same sc(2nd pic), sc 5. 13sc.

R28. Change to flesh colour if not done in r27,sc 6 invisible dec 1(dec using front loops only) sc5. 12sc

R29 12 sc.

Pic 3 is the completed doll body changing colour at r27 and again at R28..,,

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Photos below are showing what is done R26-R29

color change for top of dress part1

 This pic is r27, placing hook into r25 whereas the other is just r below. This one I didn’t dec in R28 and just sc 13 in the last 2 rounds, as you can see I didn’t think it made a difference,

color change top of dress part2

color change top of dress part3

dress finished

Arms

Start with flash color

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

Change color to one used for dress

 

R5-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Sew the arms on sides of the body, where neck area,

Jo’s tip: use a running stitch of the tan colour at where the hand and sleeve start and about half way up at about elbow

 

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the

body, starting at R23

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R23, ch1

R1 inc18 (36 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R24 sc 42

R43 sc in front loops only

Tie off hide end.

 

Bow

In brown color yarn

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc4

R12 inc1, sc3 (5 sts)

R13-R16 sc5

R17 inc1, sc4 (6 sts)

R18-R21 sc6

R22 dec1, sc4 (5 sts)

R23-R26 sc5

R27 dec1, sc3 (4 sts)

 

R28-R37 sc4

Tie off leaving long end for closing the last round nicely.

Cut the wire little bit shorter than the bow is. Secure the ends with little bit of tape or glued yarn over wire ends.

Place the wire inside the bow. Fold the piece so it forms the bow shape.

 

With silver or white or beige color thread make bow string.

 

Knot it on one side, wrap few times, stretch over the bow from one end to opposite, tie knot, wrap few times.

To secure ends you can either glue them or sew them inside the bow.

 

Bow made with pipe cleaner:

the bow is a 12inch pipe cleaner folded in half and shaped as a bow. using brown yarn tie a knot near bend, wrap yarn around tight to the end and then back down over knot, next bit a little tricky, sc a row down length of bow to the next bend, wrap yarn around to the end, tie a knot and wrap over knot, I put a dab of glue at both ends has yarn tends to fall off when wrapping, this took a few attempts to correct as it can be a little tricky. the bow string I used some very fine silver thread, tie and trimmed a knot at each end wrapping yarn a few times around the knot for picture effect.

 

Quiver and belt

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

R5 inc1, sc5 (7 sts)

R6-R10 sc7

Ch20 (making belt), wrap the belt around Merida’s waist and sc to first chain stitch made. Tie off , hide ends.

Arrows: place some shaped pins inside the quiver

You can also make arrows with some tiny feathers.

 

Hair:

For the hair you will need orange yarn, o

ne size bigger crochet hook (than the one used to crochet head and doll)

Piece of cardboard 6 x 9 inc (15,5 x 23 cm),

A piece of paper and scotchtape

 

Hair cap (or base we’ll use to attach hair)

Work with hook size bigger than used when making head. This will make the cap fit the head nicely.

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the cap on the head.

 

Making crocheted swatch. It is worked in rows. Ch1 and turn after each row.

Ch41

R1 sc40

R2-R17 sc40

Don’t tie off,

Dampen the swatch made, put it on a towel and leave to air dry naturally over night.

 

When dried:

Unravel the dry swatch wrapping it around the paper and card together lengthways, when finished push one end of the loops together till approx 2-3 inches and place tape over yarn to attach to paper, overlap tape onto paper, remove the cardboard, do not cut loops at the loose side! then I hand stitched a row of small

backstitch across the tape making sure to catch all the yarn. I made a couple of rows over just to make sure the stitching was firm. I attached cap to dolls head then the hair, pin in place from the front then to the back, the row of back stitch acts as a parting guide in the hair, so for mine I placed it over left eye at front going towards middle of head at the back. I then used same yarn as hair and made small back stitches over thread attaching hair to cap. Then cut a few loops at a time, depending on were you attached the hair will depend on if you cut the hair in the middle of the loops or to the side like mine, I left mine loose but the hair could be trimmed once fitted.

 

 

Ears

R1 sc5 into a ring but don’t close ring,

R2 ch4 sl st first stitch made, tighten the ring, 1 sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st.

Fasten off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Sew all parts together and your princess Merdia is done!

Here is mine!  I can’t even express how much I enjoyed making her!

Merida

Hope this post and our Facebook friends as well as all of you who will come to see this post and leave the message, will encourage Jo to finish what she started with creating other Disney princesses, we can share and make.

Hip, hip hooraaay for Jo!

 

 

Thank you all for stopping by and taking time reading this post. Hope you like it. Looking forward to hear from you and see you Meridas soon!

 

Vanja

 

p.s.

added .pdf of this pattern under Free Patterns page for your easier download and use.

 

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Mermaid dolls

Hello dear friends. Finally managed to finish the little ones. Dolls were easy, but I promised to make tutorial on easy way to needle sculpt the face and added one more about crocheted doll’s hair that I hope many will enjoy as well.

BB Mermaids

Since BB dolls were published and the pattern released I have have been asked many times how were different hair styles done. That is why I

made this very simple pattern for dolls hair, where I have tried to explain what you have to look and pay attention to when adding crocheting hair on any doll’s head. That is basics and I hope will help many of you that weren’t so sure about how to start and how to make crocheted dolls hair.

Understanding this basic pattern and making at least two of these mermaid hairs, I am sure you will become familiar and free with trying out some of your own creative hair styles and maybe even free making your own little dolls and patterns.

The pattern on crocheted hair basics you can find under Help pages and tutorials.

There you will also find tutorial I have made as addition to these little mermaids that will show you, step by step on how to easy needle sculpt dolls head to make her smiling.

Today will share simple pattern on how to make your little mermaids. These are very special mermaids! When they are outside the water they look as any ordinary girl, but the second they enter the water they turn into beautiful mermaids enjoying the depths of the deepest seas, swimming with whales and dolphins. Decorating hair with starfish and pearls.

BB Mermaids

 Materials needed:

2 mm crochet hook

DK 100% cotton in flash color of your choice, color of your chice for the hair, swimming suit and mermaid fin/body

4 mm round black beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

darning needle

glue (optional) for extra reinforcing the hair and top of the swimming suit.

Abbreviations (US terminology used):

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Bpsc – back post single crochet

Ch – chain

R – round or row

 

Finished doll size:

Around 19 cm / 8 inches

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54sts)

R14-R17 sc 54

R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48

R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Add some more stuffing if needed, tie off .

 

Hair patterns of three mermaids

 

Goldie locks

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 *ch13, starting from 4th ch stitch from hook, inc10 with dc sts, skip 3 stitches on the fundamental row (R12), sl st in 4th st* repeat around (before the last ch13 you will have only 3 stitches left, skip 2sts and sl st in this 3rd, repeat chain 13 and 10 inc dc over chain made to finish this row.

Continue stitching single crochet on the side of the hair piece (working towards the top – where magic ring is)

Sc in magic ring, ch23, starting from 4th chain stitch, increase 20 chain stitches with dc; *sc in magic ring, ch10, sl st9 over the chain made* x2

Continue sc on the other side of the hair piece (from magic ring towards the end of the side made), tie off leave long end for sewing the hair on the head, or hide ends if you decide to glue the hair on the head.

 

Pink curls

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch3, dc2 in each stitch across

R13 *ch3, turn, sl st to next st* across

When reaching end, continue in this manner ch3, slst next around side towards magic ring,

In magic ring sc1, ch13, sl st to 4th ch stitch from end, *ch3, sl st to next st*…across (repeat 3 times in order to make 3 fringes)

Note: 3 fringes will make pretty mess in front. Yo can make just 2 of them, or you can make them standard way, by slip stitching instead of chaining 3 and sl st. Possibilities are many)

 

After fringes are made, continue with *ch3, sl st next st* across the other side of the hair piece.

When reaching end, tie off and leave long end for sewing (if you will sew the hair on the head) or tie off and hide ands if you are gluing the hair on the head.

 

Green braids

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close tha magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch21, sc20 (over chain made), sc to next st on the base (R12) repeat ch21 x2

Skip one, *hdc4 in the next st, skip 1, sl st next, skip one* repeat until you make 7 shells, then repeat ch21-sc20 for the last 3 sts

Sc on the side, stitching up, towards magic ring, make 3 fringes (or as desired) with ch10, sl st 9, finish with sc over next side (towards bottom of the hair piece) tie off leaving long end for sewing or tie off and hide end if your hair will be glued to the head.

Legs (make2)

With color of your choice (one you’ve chosen for your mermaid)

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

Change yarn color to flash

R4 bpsc18

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Leave long end of your mermaid color (one you used for shoe to sew the flip-flops top or to add top of the shoe)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off. Stuff the leg.

 

Body

With mermaid color yarn.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

R1 Slip stitch to one stitch and stitch around connecting legs with closest two stitches, making total of 18 stitches around

(I always like to slip stitch to the stitch that is closest to next leg, so I can connect legs right at beginning and simply stitch around).

R2 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R3-R4 sc24

Change color to flash

R5 sc24

R6 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R7-R11 sc18

R12 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R13-R14 sc12

Stuff the body nice and firm. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and head together.

 

Swimming suit top

R1 sc6 in magic ring (leave about 15-20 cm yarn before making the ring)

R2 sl st last to first st, ch3, dc2 in next st, dc2 to next, ch3, sl st to next st, ch3, 2dc to next st, 2dc to next st, ch3, sl st to starting sl st.

Tie off leaving long end.

Wrap the yarn around middle three times, pulling on every round, in order to make nice bow looking piece.

Then using both yarn ends make a knot on the back side of the bow. Cut them to desired length but enough to tie around mermaids neck and make a little bow.

You can sew or glue this top on mermaids chest.

BB Mermaids

Fin

Make two little fins from R1-R9

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R4 sc8

R5 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R7 sc18

R8 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R9 dec6 (6 sts)

While making second find, do not tie off, but connect second fin and stitch around both making 12 sts

R10 bring both fins together and stitch around making 12 sts

From the next row, continue stitching using back loops only

R11-R12 sc12

R13 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R14-R15 sc18

R16 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R18 sc24

R19 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R20-R34 sc30

R35 *skip one st, 5hdc in next one, skip one, sl st next* around

Tie off hide end. Your mermaid body with fin is done.

 

You can add some beads or bows or shiny threads over front loops. You can also stitch across in spiral using some nice simple edging pattern. It is to your choice. I left it simple but possibilities are endless, and do not hesitate to experiment and add your own touch to it.

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the head.

 

By now all of your body pieces are done, and your head is needle sculpt. Sew all of them together nicely.

Put the mermaids outfit on your doll and she is ready to play with.

 

BB Mermaids

 

I hope you have enjoyed making your mermaid and that you will make at least two of them.

What I hope more is that your daughters, granddaughters, nieces or little girls next door will enjoy them even more.

 

Vanja

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Bianchina by Stefania

Proudly presenting little Bianchina, first pattern made by Stefania Bianchi.

For those that don’t know, some time last year I have created little Facebook group named FairyDolls Crochet. Was easier to give hand and help with my patterns this way. There are 300 of us members but are growing daily. We share experiences, help each other, share photos, links to free patterns from fellow bloggers and just hang up as a group of enthusiasts who like to make dolls and toys. Stefania is one of our oldest members and few weeks ago she shared this Bianchina pattern with us. I have fell in love with little sheep, and same day star

ted making one myself. As the pattern was in Italian (and have to first Italian pattern I worked on), I translated it to English as I worked on it (to help Stefania and group members who were excited about this pattern as much as I was).

 

So here is Bianchina I made.

Bianchina - pattern by Stefania BianchiBianchina

With with Stefanias permission offering you her free pattern so you can make your own Bianchina 🙂

Pattern is easy to follow. For any questions you might have, you can freely ask me, or contact Stefania through her Facebook page. All the details you will find herewith.

Here is the copy of the pattern. You can also find it free to download and save for personal use on my Free Patterns page.

Wishing you all lots of fun times with Bianchina! Big thanks to dear Stefania. Hopefully new pattern from her will be available soon!!!

Bianchina 1

Bianchina 2Bianchina 3Bianchina 4Bianchina 5Bianchina 6Bianchina 7

 

 

 

 

While you are all working on your new pattern, I will go back to finish my new project; Waldorf inspired doll. Dear friends, I love this doll!!!!

By now you all know I love dolls. Not only making them but I really enjoy having them, seeing them, being around them… This one is real treasure. Really, really a doll! Soft, cuddly, beautiful… Here is sneak peak to what I am working on these days.

Waldorf inspired doll - AmigurumiBBAmigurumiBB - work in progress, Waldorf/Steiner inspired doll

Wishing you all happy and peaceful rest of the weekend.

 

Vanja

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Bratz inspired doll

I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.

First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then

as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!

At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.

First will show you my Bratz doll.

BratzBB curly hair front

As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.

Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):

http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi

on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html

This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there).  It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.

You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.

Patterns are:

1. Basic Bratz doll body

2. How to create hair from satin ribbon

3. How to connect limbs to the body

Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉

Lolly front

 

This is my Lolly!

lolly sideLolly back

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.

Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.

 

Hugs

 

Vanja

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Zombi me…

Last week I announced doll I was working on,  zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.

In most of European countries,  the February is month of carnivals.

“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)

I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course,  because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉

All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!

Here is zombi me

Zombi Vanja - AmigurumiBBThis doll was made from my second try.

FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.

Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀

Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.

Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.

Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.

Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.

The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.

Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.

This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but  now I know more and will share it with you.

Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.

What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.

Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.

They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.

My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.

Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.

♡ Vanja

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Mooshka dolls

This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.

Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.

Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Mooshka dolls2Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.

To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. Mooshka-orangeMooshka-side viewMooshka-back viewAs you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.Mooshka-blueI have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.

Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).

 

Materials needed:

Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress

The rest of the doll  (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.

Matching hook

Stuffing

Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.

Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.

If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).

Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.

Embroidery needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link  http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

 

Head

I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.

With yarn in flash color of your choice

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R10-R19 sc60

R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)

R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)

R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)

R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)

R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)

R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck

Neck area

R1 sc18

R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R9-R10 Sc60 x2

 

Forming arms

Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)

R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count

R2-R21 Sc15

Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)

R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc1*  x5 (10 sts)

R24 Sc10

R25 Dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.

 

Next arm:

Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm

Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)

 

Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.

I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.

 

Body

Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.

Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.

 

R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)

R2 Sc34

R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)

(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)

R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)

R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)

R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)

R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)

R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)

R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)

Change color for panties

R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)

R11-R16 Sc42

R17 *Dec1, sc5*  x6 (36 sts)

Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing  last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.

First we will sew the body.

Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)

Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).

Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.

 

Legs x2

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4-R5 Sc24

R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)

Change color (shoe is done)

R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)

R8-R32 Sc18

Stuff legs nice and firm

Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.

Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.

Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.

Hair

Color of your choice

Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)

R8-R17 Sc40

R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)

R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)

R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)

R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)

R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)

R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)

R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)

R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)

R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)

Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)

sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc  on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.

Pony tails can be made many ways.

We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.

 

Simple buns (blue haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 sc12

R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the bun well

R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.

 

Longer buns (orange haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the first part

R4 inc6 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12

R8 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff second ball

R9 inc6 (12 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R11-R12 sc18

R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R14 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing

Dress

Ch29

Sc28

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)

Dc42

Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)

Dc56

Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)

Sc32

Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)

Dc48

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)

Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds

Ch2, dc64 x5

Change color

Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around

Eyes and creating dolls face

Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.

To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.

If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.

 

Crocheted eyes:

With black embroidery thread

Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch

Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown

Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)

Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.

For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.

For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.

Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.

Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.

You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.

You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.

Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.

 

Place the lips two rounds below the nose.

Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.

Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).

Mooshka dolls

And that it is! Your Moosha is done! 

Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.

Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!

 

♡ Vanja 

Posted on

Silly little Angel!

Hope you all remember little angry Angel I posted photo of few weeks ago. Dear Debi B. asked to try the pattern out. And am glad she has helped me with it. Thank you Debi!

I came out with an Angel pattern after Bonnie B. asked me to create and Angel she could make and donate to cancer ill patients in local hospital, to cheer them up and brighten their day.

That is how silly little attitude Angel came to life.

Here is a photo of two of them. Angels-AmigurumiBB

Wing pattern is not mine. Found it long time ago and used it here. If one knows the original designer and owner of the wing pattern, let me know so can give her deserved credit.

Think I better get on with pattern, as I have one (two) more patterns to share today.

Angel is made in No.10 thread and 1,50 mm crochet hook. FInished size measures 13 cm (5″).

Debi has made her angel in worsted wight yarn and F hook and her angel measures 11″. Here is the photo of her Angel.

Debi B's Angel made out Angel pattern-AmigurumiBBFrom materials you will need to make angle is thread or yarn in flash color of your choice, white yarn or thread, little bit of black embroidery thread for the eyes, stuffing, and fabric starch to block and model wings.

Abbreviations:

st(s) – stitches

Sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double corchet

ch – chain

R – round when worked in continuous rounds or row if work requires turns and straight line following.

AmigurumiBB-Angels

Head

Flash color of your choice

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R11 sc42

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

Begin stuffing

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Add more stuffing

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off.

 

Body and legs are worked together

Legs (make 2)

Start with white

Ch7

R1 sc5, 3sc in last st, work around chain, sc4, 2sc in last st (14 sts)

R2 inc1, sc4, inc3, sc4, inc2 (20 sts)

R3-R4 sc20

R5 sc5, dec5, sc5 (15 sts)

R6 dec1, sc3, dec2, sc3, dec1, sc1 (11 sts)

Stuff the bottom legs.

Change color to skin tone

R7-R26 sc11

Stuff legs very, very light.

Making body

With white thread/yarn

R1 Bring both legs together and stitch all around (both legs making one wrking piece

out of these two) (22 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x7, inc last stitch (30 sts)

R3-R8 sc30

R9 BLO (back loops only) sc30

R10-R14 sc30

R15 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R16 sc24

R17 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R18 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm

R19 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R20 sc12

Arms (make 2)

With flash color yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2-R3 sc9

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

R5*inc1, sc1 3 (9 sts)

R6-R17 sc9

Change color to white

R18 inc9 (18 sts)

R19 sc18

R20 dec9 (9 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the sleeve.

Sew hands nicely on side of the body

Skirt

there are two different skirt patterns. I couldn’t decide which one so giving you both of them. If you look at the photo, you can see there are two different skirts. Make one you like better.

When it comes to describing patterns with dc and different stitches used I am no expert at all, so forgive me if there are mistakes or misunderstandings. If you will have difficulties, please let me know so can help you so me more with it.

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around

R2 ch3 counts as 1st dc, dc1 in same stitch, ch1, dc2 in same stitch,*skip2, dc2, ch1, dc2 in same stitch* repeat around  slip stitch last to first 3chain made and continue with next round

R3  *dc2 in chain of shell made in R2, ch1 2dc in same loop* around

R4-R5 repeat R3

Second skirt pattern I used

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around , slip stitch last to first

R2 working in back loops only, *hdc, sc, hdc over next three stitches, long dc (inserting the hook in the base of sc made previous round)* work this pattern 1 round

R3 ch3, turn, working in both loops (will work every second stitch this round) in each long dc of previous round sc1, skip one, and sc3 in one stitch, skip one- sc1 in long dc….continue this way around

R4 repeat R2

R5 repeat R3

R6 repeat R2

R7 repeat R3

R8 repeat R2

R9 5dc in sc made previous round, sc in long dc made previous round – repeat this around

Tie off hide ends

Halo (star)

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 ch3, *dc1, ch1, dc1 in same stitch* x4, dc1, ch1 slip stitch to chain made at start

You will create 5 petals or five points of the star

R2 ch3, *dc to chain between two dc (dc-ch-dc at previous round), ch3, slip stitch in between petals, ch3* x4 ch3 and slip stitch to the base of first chain made in this round.

Tie of leaving long end for sewing

Sew the star on top of angel’s head.

Hair

In white color thread/yarn

Sc4 in magic ring (do not close the ring) ch1, turn

Making rows here, so chain nad turn ater aech row is done

R1 inc4 (8 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R7-R11 sc28

R12 do not turn, ch1, and work on sides (edges), sc around until you reach magic ring,

 

In magic ring sc1, ch9, starting at second ch from hook, slip stitch 8

Repeat this two more time (making 3 bangs)

When finished with bangs, continue with single crochet stitches around next side of the hair. Reaching end, tie off.

You can either make braids, pony tails, curls

Make them on the side of the head, using last row to slip stitch and continue work

I made braids, waving the thread to first three stitches on each side, then making

braids and folding them beneath the hair. Added wool bows on top of them.

Same way you can make curls. Slip stitch to side stitch, chain desired length for curl to be and either double or triple stitch to one chain stitch in order to reach curly look.

Repeat that for two or three stitches one each side.

For pony tails, make little tassels and sew on sides.

Angel Wing Pattern

Ch7

R1 Dc to 3rd ch from hook, dc1 to next, dc2 in next, dc1, next, dc2 next (8dcs)

R2 Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , dc to next dc on previous row, *ch2, dc*  across this row (last dc will be in the place of chain3 of previous row-to achieve this skip last “normal dc from previous row and stitch dc into chain (7dcs+1ch3)

R3 Ch2 turn, 2dc-ch2-2dc in second ch2 made previous row, skip one chain and repeat 2dc-ch2-2dc two more times (same way, skipping one chain and making cluster to next),to finish this row, make last dc to beginning chain of previous row

R4 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc repeat three times making them in place of chains of each cluster made previous row. Finish of with dc made in last chain of previous row

R5 Ch2, turn,  3dc-ch2-3dc clusters make again in chains of each cluster made previous row. Exception this time is ch2 between each cluster made. Finish with dc in chain of previous row

R6 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc-ch2-sc to next chain of previous row

R7 Ch4, turn, 4dc-ch2-4dc made in chain of cluster made previous row, finish row with dc to chain of previous row

Here is photo of both wings made (not blocked yet). Just to give you idea on how they should look like.Angel Wings

To finish – the pattern uses picots and single crochet around the wing.

Picots are made: ch3 on last working sc and then slip stitch to the base of the stitch (or you can slip stitch to 3rd chain from hook)

If picot is difficult, you can single crochet around wing, just to make it firmer, or you can leave it as it is.

After both wings are finished, sew them together over beginning 5 chain stitches.

Use some fabric starch to harden and model the wings nicely.

And that is it! Angel done in no time!

Hope you have enjoyed and will even more when your Angel will be finished.

It is really fun little one to have near. Makes me smile whenever I see it!

Thank you everyone!

Love,

Vanja

 

Posted on

BB Candy Dolls

It is busy time of year for many of us. Had hands full with christmas ornaments but wasn’t stopped making-creating something new.

I just loooooove making dolls! BB Candy dolls that would like to share with you today, took me the longest time to create from any other doll made so far. It is not doll to be made within few hours. And those that will try will see themselves. When picture of this doll popped out in my head, didn’t sleep until the doll was not done. I am more than happy with the final outcome and am really proud to share them with you.

Here is a little photo of three of them finished so far (have several more I am working on-making clothes take time to design and create)!BBCandies

Doll in the middle is little different. She is made in fine thread instead of yarn and is  completely different stitch count from the other two dolls and the pattern I will share with you today. She is my first “lace doll” and such dolls will go to my shop. She is in the photo because the shape of the body is very similar to ones on sides, and cloths fits all dolls the same way.

Here is one more photo of lace doll aloneCountry

Like mentioned earlier, pattern that am sharing with you today, requires a little bit more work than BB Dolls or miniature Karla doll. These dolls are 21-22 cm tall and are more doll companions, treasure dolls than one to stick in the bag and carry around. At least I feel for them this way. They are really darlings and whoever will try making one will understand what I’m talking about now.

Summer

Will give you two different options to make a doll. One with all five fingers on, or fingerless doll that is for the most, easier way to work. Here is the photo of two unfinished dolls that are made with fingerless arms. Fingerless dolls are made in DK, No.3 yarn weight, or light weight. These particular two were made in RedHeart FinaDK (100% New wool), with 2,5 mm hook. Candies-fingerless pattern

Dolls you have seen on group photo (side ones), Summer girl and Holiday one, were made in Lace type of yarn. Made them using SchachenmayrSMC Suavel in very light peach. Head and body were made with two strands of yarn and 2,5 mm hook, while the fingers and hand were done with just one strand and 1,75 mm hook (arm was then continued and worked with two strands and 2,5 hook).

One more photo of Holiday Doll and let us move to pattern.Holiday Doll

Materials used:

No.0 or No.3 yarn of your choice for the dolls head and body.

2,5 mm crochet hook

No5 cotton yarn (thread) for knitting (this is what my label sys. it is very fine yarn, thread looking) + 2 mm crochet hook to make the cloths

Stuffing

Any kind of natural fibers yarn for hair (gives you better results than acrylic yarns)

buttons, ribbons, glue… anything else you would like for decorating the doll

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2 stitches in same stitch)

dec – decrease (decrease two stitches, or 2 stitches together; I like to use invisible decrease)

** – repeat what between stars

sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitches

R – round or row count (depending if working in rounds or rows)

If something is missed and you have problems reading the pattern, feel free to write and ask; will be glad to help.

Time for our pattern!

Dolls Head & Body

Head

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1 sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R13 sc42

R14 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R15-R17 sc54

R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48

R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm. Take your time stuffing the head so it remains with nice shape.

R23 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Legs x2

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 Inc5 (10)

R2-R6 Sc10

R7 ch1, turn, sc8

R8 ch1, turn, sc8

R9 ch1, turn sc4, ch1 fold the last row in half and sc4 (from bottom to the edge)

R10 ch1 sc12 (stitch the corners as well)

Stuff the foot nice and firm. Continue stuffing the legs as you go (don’t stuff to hard).

R11-R30 sc12

Body

Bring legs together. Starting from right leg forward left, sl st to stitch that is closes (right to left) sc in same stitch, ch2 and continue with R1

R1 sc to next leg (on your left working side), sc next11 sts, sc2 over chain, sc next 11 sts (first leg-right side working leg) (28 sts)

R2 sc1, Inc2 over 2chain stitches previousround, sc25 (30 sts)

R3 Inc4, sc8, inc1, sc8, inc1,sc8   (36 sts)

R4-R10 sc36

R11 *dec1, sc7* x4 (32 sts)

R12-R13 sc32

R14 *dec1, sc6* x4 (28 sts)

R15-R16 sc28

R17 *dec1, sc5* x4 (24 sts)

R18-R19 sc24

R20  *dec, sc4* x4 (20 sts)

R21 sc20

Begin stuffing the body

R22 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)

R24 sc12

Finish stuffing the body. Will add more stuffing when sewing head and body parts together.

Arms

Fingerless hands

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 Inc5 (10 sts)

R2-R4 Sc10

R5 1popcorn stitch (with 3hds), sc9 (10 sts)

R6 Sc10

R7 *dec1, sc3* x2 (8 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R9-R26 Sc10

Hands with fingers

fingers x4

sc4in magic ring

R1-R4 sc4

little finger

sc4 inmagic ring

R1-R3 sc4

R1 (of hand making) With little finger as working one, continue joining other fingers.

join fingers x3

over 2 sc each, last finger stitch across and continue (16 sts)

R2 right hand – dec2, sc12 (14 sts)

left hand – sc12, dec2 (14 sts)

R3 rigt hand – dec2, sc10 (12 sts)

left hand – sc10, dec2 (12 sts)

R4 right hand – sc2, attach thumb over2sts, sc8

left hand – sc6, sc2 over thumb, sc4

R5 right hand – sc2, sc2 on thumb only, sc8

left hand – sc6, sc2 thumb, sc4

R6 sc12

R7 *dec1,sc4* x2 (10 sts)

change hook

R8-R25 sc10

Sew all parts together.

We can make hair and eyes in order to finish doll completely and prepare her for dressing up.

Hair

These dolls are made with wigs. There are two ways doing it. You can attach hair directly to head, waving through the stitches on the head, or, you can make wig separately, and wave the hairs on the wig. It really depends on what one prefers. My dolls are done both ways. Some have hairs woven directly on the head (white haired doll in holiday suit and yellow hair doll with pigtails), or making wig (red haired doll with fingerless hands and white haired doll in blue and white dress). You can wave the hairs just on top of the head (i waved it in only at first 6 rows of the head), and wigs that were made, were made same size (fitting the head like this, on top), or you can wave the hairs all around, filling top and back of the head. I can advise you to be careful what yarn you are working with. Not only to use natural fiber yarns, but also spare on yarn as well. Stitching and waving to every stitch will make hair looking huge and to big for your doll. If the yarn is thick, use it on every second or third stitch. Experiment a little. For the time being I don’t have tutorial on how this is done, but will try to make one while I will work on my future dolls. For starters I can advise you to look at tutorial by Beth Webber. It is completely in photos and very well described. You can find it here http://byhookbyhand.blogspot.com/search/label/Wig%20Making

On this blog you will find all different kinds of wig making. For now it is best I can offer, and Beth Webber is wonderful doll designer.

Eyes – crochet

As you could see on the photos, eyes on Candy dolls are crochet as well. To make them you will need embroidery thread in black, white and eye color of your choice and 1,25 steel crochet hook

Start with black

sc5 in magic ring

R1 increase5 (10 sts)

R2 change color to eye color to eye, BLO sl st to next stitch, sc, 2hdc, sc, sl st – ctu the yarn and pul it out from the loop

change color to white

R3 Return to 1 sl st of eye color worked R2 and working in Blo, pull out white thread. sc, hdc, sc, sl st (cut thread and pul it out from the loop)

cut all threads to 5 mm length and glue them on the back of the eye. Let it all dry. You can glue the eyes on the face or you can sew them on with floss thread (so called invisible thread).

If you like to add eyelashes, cut six pieces of black thread of about 2 cm long, and wave them to three sided loops on each eye (black part). glue the back of loops so eye lashes don’t fall out when cut short.

Once dried, cut the eyelashes to 2-3 mm length and curl hem towards forward, over eye.

I added white eye sparks with textile paint (because the eyes were very tiny and hard, difficult to sew white over the black).

You can always use safety eyes, or you can paint the eyes. Place them right after R14 leaving at least 4-5 stitches between them.

Nose is sewed on (embroidered) with same yarn dolls head and body was worked with. Embroider it in the middle of R14 and R15.

Use some powder blush to make cheeks rosy. If you like you can add lips embroidering them as well.

Dolls Outfit!

Will give you details on how to make Holiday outfit (Elf doll you can see in the photo as well as how to make a dress out of the shirt she is wearing). Will try to add more clothes these days. Hats, shoes, different dresses….

Overalls

Ch20 sl st last to first and continue in rounds

R1 Sc20

R2 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R5-R10 Sc35

R11 Connect and stitch around both legs (70 sts)

R12-R23 Sc70

R24 *Dec1, sc1* around

R25 Ch3, skip 1, dc1, *ch1, skip1 dc1* around – sl st last ot first chain made

Use bow at this row. Tie it in front.

R26 ch1, sc2 over ch made, between each dc, sl st last to first and tie off

Top of the pants.

R1Count 12 sc centered front, sl st last and sc12, ch1, turn

R2-R6 sc12 (making rows, ch1, turn each row)

R7 dec1, sc8, dec1 (10 sts)

R8 dec1, sc6, dec1 (8 sts)

Sl st to the 12th stitch from the last one stitched of the front upper part made. (count to your left) We are making straps here, starting them from back.

R1 Sc2,ch1, turn

R2-R18 Sc2, ch6, sl st to next st (button holder made), tie off

Now count 13 sts on the other side of the first row front upper part made (count to your right).

R1 Sc2, ch1, turn

R2-R18 Sc2, ch6, sl st to next st, tie off

Sew buttons in corners of upper pants part

Shirt/dress

note: V stitch indicated in the pattern you will make: 2dc-ch-2dc in one stitch, or under the chain in every row  after 1st one.

Ch 27, dc in 4th ch from the hook

R1 ch3, turn, dc3, V st, dc4, V st, dc6, V st,  dc4, V st, dc3

R2 ch3 turn, dc5, V st, dc8, V st, dc10, V st, dc8, V st, dc5

R3 ch3, turn, dc7, V st, dc12, V st, dc14, V st, dc12, V st, dc7

R4 ch3, turn, dc9, V st, dc16, V st, dc18, V st, dc16, V st, dc9

basic top is done here!

R5 back loops only – ch3, turn dc11, skip20, dc22, skip20, dc11

Continue repeating R5 for desired length.

After done, sc all around shirt making holes for buttons on one sides edge. Do this simple way, as shown in the overalls example.

To make dress out of this top, proceed with R6 written bellow and follow further instructions

R6 *inc1, sc1* around

work in rows for at least 1 cm length (for easier clothing the doll later). After this 1cm is finished, connect ends and continue working in rounds.

After R6 is made, you can decide if will work in single crochet, double, or use any other pattern of your choice.

Same way decide of the length of the dress you will make.

With this pattern tried to show you the basic square start when making dresses or shirts.

Soon will show you how to start with round shape around neck and make shrt-dress different way.

Elf Slippers

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 sl st1, hdc3

R2 hdc1, sl st1, hdc2

R3 hdc1, sl st1, hdc2

R4 *inc, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc2* x2  (8 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R12-R14 sc20

R13 ch1, turn, sc15

R14-R19 sc15 (making rows, ch1, turn each row)

R20 ch1, turn, sc7 – fold the end of slipper you are currently working on in half. Skip one stitch and sc7 over two opposite stitches (of the same row).

Change color to white

R21 sc around edge and 5 stitches left of round 14, making 20 stitch count

R22 FLO, *ch2, sc to next st* repeat around

Tie of hide ends

sew tinny jungle bells on top of the shoes, or make tiny pom-poms instead

Candy cane hair band

Start with either white or red, work in rows

R1 Ch7, starting from the second st from the hook, sc6

R2 Ch1, turn, sc6

R3 Don’t ch, skip one, sc4, inc1 (6)

R4 Ch1, turn sc6

R5 Don’t ch, skip one, sc4, inc1

Change color

Repeat the pattern for desired length

One reached desired length, connect beginning and end row to form a band.

With yarn of your choice make the border (edging)

*ch2, skip one, sl st* work this pattern on both sides

And that is all for now. I hope you like my new Candy dolls design. Hope you will enjoy making them as well. For any questions you might have, or any mistakes in the pattern you might find, please let me know so can help you or make corrections immediately.

One last photo before we finish for today is….Angelone tiny angel…Agel with attitude. Mad this time because we didn’t talk about her today 😀

Wishing you all wonderful Friday and blessed weekend full of fun and joy!

Love,

Vanja