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Brave, Princess Merida

Hello dear friends,

This week presenting beautiful princess Merida.

Jo Merriman made this adorable doll based on my FairyDoll pattern, and you will all agree, she made wonderful job designing Merida. Thank you Jo for this great idea and pattern you share with us!

Merida by Jo Merriman

Materials you will need to make this doll can be any of your choice yarn with matching hook.

Yarn in flash color – peach or pinkish one will work great for princess Merida

For dress use some petrol green color, darker green or blue, all will work nice.

Bow and quiver make in brown (some leftover yarns will work well) – same color you can use to make Merida’s shoes.

Jo added tiny bits of beige on top of the dress and sleeves.

And orange to make Merida’s beautiful hair.

Darning needle for sewing, stuffing of your choice

2 black beads 4-5 mm round ones for the eyes.

 

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

Hdc – half double crochet

Dec – decreasing stitch

Inc – increasing stitch

 

Head

(flesh color yarn)

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

 

Legs & body

(You will need flash color yarn, brown-for shoes, and start with brown for shoes, green or similar for dress)

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body is the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

Start with brown

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

Change color to flash

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

 

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

 

Work with white or color you will use for dress.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: stitch around both legs making 18 stitches count. (18)

R18-R22

R23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 Either change to a separate color as in photos or change to flesh color. Sc6, insert hook in r below (1st pic) yarn over and pull long loop, insert into same sc and create a second long loop into same sc(2nd pic), sc 5. 13sc.

R28. Change to flesh colour if not done in r27,sc 6 invisible dec 1(dec using front loops only) sc5. 12sc

R29 12 sc.

Pic 3 is the completed doll body changing colour at r27 and again at R28..,,

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Photos below are showing what is done R26-R29

color change for top of dress part1

 This pic is r27, placing hook into r25 whereas the other is just r below. This one I didn’t dec in R28 and just sc 13 in the last 2 rounds, as you can see I didn’t think it made a difference,

color change top of dress part2

color change top of dress part3

dress finished

Arms

Start with flash color

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

Change color to one used for dress

 

R5-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Sew the arms on sides of the body, where neck area,

Jo’s tip: use a running stitch of the tan colour at where the hand and sleeve start and about half way up at about elbow

 

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the

body, starting at R23

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R23, ch1

R1 inc18 (36 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R24 sc 42

R43 sc in front loops only

Tie off hide end.

 

Bow

In brown color yarn

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc4

R12 inc1, sc3 (5 sts)

R13-R16 sc5

R17 inc1, sc4 (6 sts)

R18-R21 sc6

R22 dec1, sc4 (5 sts)

R23-R26 sc5

R27 dec1, sc3 (4 sts)

 

R28-R37 sc4

Tie off leaving long end for closing the last round nicely.

Cut the wire little bit shorter than the bow is. Secure the ends with little bit of tape or glued yarn over wire ends.

Place the wire inside the bow. Fold the piece so it forms the bow shape.

 

With silver or white or beige color thread make bow string.

 

Knot it on one side, wrap few times, stretch over the bow from one end to opposite, tie knot, wrap few times.

To secure ends you can either glue them or sew them inside the bow.

 

Bow made with pipe cleaner:

the bow is a 12inch pipe cleaner folded in half and shaped as a bow. using brown yarn tie a knot near bend, wrap yarn around tight to the end and then back down over knot, next bit a little tricky, sc a row down length of bow to the next bend, wrap yarn around to the end, tie a knot and wrap over knot, I put a dab of glue at both ends has yarn tends to fall off when wrapping, this took a few attempts to correct as it can be a little tricky. the bow string I used some very fine silver thread, tie and trimmed a knot at each end wrapping yarn a few times around the knot for picture effect.

 

Quiver and belt

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

R5 inc1, sc5 (7 sts)

R6-R10 sc7

Ch20 (making belt), wrap the belt around Merida’s waist and sc to first chain stitch made. Tie off , hide ends.

Arrows: place some shaped pins inside the quiver

You can also make arrows with some tiny feathers.

 

Hair:

For the hair you will need orange yarn, o

ne size bigger crochet hook (than the one used to crochet head and doll)

Piece of cardboard 6 x 9 inc (15,5 x 23 cm),

A piece of paper and scotchtape

 

Hair cap (or base we’ll use to attach hair)

Work with hook size bigger than used when making head. This will make the cap fit the head nicely.

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the cap on the head.

 

Making crocheted swatch. It is worked in rows. Ch1 and turn after each row.

Ch41

R1 sc40

R2-R17 sc40

Don’t tie off,

Dampen the swatch made, put it on a towel and leave to air dry naturally over night.

 

When dried:

Unravel the dry swatch wrapping it around the paper and card together lengthways, when finished push one end of the loops together till approx 2-3 inches and place tape over yarn to attach to paper, overlap tape onto paper, remove the cardboard, do not cut loops at the loose side! then I hand stitched a row of small

backstitch across the tape making sure to catch all the yarn. I made a couple of rows over just to make sure the stitching was firm. I attached cap to dolls head then the hair, pin in place from the front then to the back, the row of back stitch acts as a parting guide in the hair, so for mine I placed it over left eye at front going towards middle of head at the back. I then used same yarn as hair and made small back stitches over thread attaching hair to cap. Then cut a few loops at a time, depending on were you attached the hair will depend on if you cut the hair in the middle of the loops or to the side like mine, I left mine loose but the hair could be trimmed once fitted.

 

 

Ears

R1 sc5 into a ring but don’t close ring,

R2 ch4 sl st first stitch made, tighten the ring, 1 sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st.

Fasten off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Sew all parts together and your princess Merdia is done!

Here is mine!  I can’t even express how much I enjoyed making her!

Merida

Hope this post and our Facebook friends as well as all of you who will come to see this post and leave the message, will encourage Jo to finish what she started with creating other Disney princesses, we can share and make.

Hip, hip hooraaay for Jo!

 

 

Thank you all for stopping by and taking time reading this post. Hope you like it. Looking forward to hear from you and see you Meridas soon!

 

Vanja

 

p.s.

added .pdf of this pattern under Free Patterns page for your easier download and use.

 

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Charlotte the Cat by NVKatherine

Hello dear firends,

Few weeks ago I have presented you pattern from one new designer NVKatherine who is also my dear Facebook friend. She introduced herself  with Pammy the Pig. NVKatherine is young and very creative designer!

Two weeks ago she came up with new design and we decided to make a post of that one as well. This time it is a cat, darling Charlotte the Cat. Once again, NVKatherine has come up with easy pattern everyone can follow and make, which is same time so cute and adorable.

I am sure you will give it a try and make this darling cat Charlotte for your little ones. Feel free contact me for any questions you might have, or any help you might need, as well as you can contact NVKatherine through contact addresses provided here and in .pdf pattern you are welcome to download.

CHARLOTTE_THE_CAT

CHARLOTTE THE CAT

By NVkatherine

This is originally designed by NVkatherine so please do NOT claim this pattern yours. Don’t repost the pattern anywhere or sell it. You may sell the finished dolls but please give me NVkatherine/Vi the credit as the designer. Thank you!

For complete tutorial video on how to make your Charlotte The Cat, please visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViPc9hsyWHs

 

PATTERN:

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (a.k.a. 2sc in 1st)
dec = decrease (a.k.a. sc2tog)
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only
FO = fasten off

HEAD
*With cream yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]
2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]
5. 1sc in each st around [24]
6. 3sc, 1inc [30]
7. 4sc, 1inc [36]

8. 5sc, 1inc [42]
9. 1sc in each st around for 5 rows [42]
10. 5sc, 1dec [36]
11. 4sc, 1dec [30]
12. 3sc, 1dec [24]
~> Add safety eyes between row 10 and 11, 9 stitches apart.
13. 2sc, 1dec [18]
14. 1sc, 1dec [12]
15. dec around [6]
FO. Leave a long tail to sew up the gap.

BODY
*With cream yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]
5. 3sc, 1inc [30]
6. 1sc in each st around for 3 rows [30]
*Change to purple*
7. 4sc, 1dec in BLO [25]
8. 1sc in each st around [25]
9. 3sc, 1dec [20]
10. 1sc in each st around [20]
11. 2sc, 1dec [15]
12. 3sc, 1dec [12]
FO. Leave a long tail to connect the body to the head.
This part is optional: do surface slip stitches with white yarn between step 6 & 7, right above the front loops that we left earlier. Please watch my tutorial for more details:

 

DRESS

*With purple yarn*

Insert in the slip knot to the front loop from step 7 of the body and ch1. Please watch my tutorial for better instruction:

At the end of row, remember to do a sl st into the first stitch of the previous row and ch3. (This ch3 does not count a stitch)

1. 1sc around in those front loops that we left earlier. [30]

2. 1dc, 2dc in the 2nd st [45]

3. 1dc around [45]

FO. Leave a long tail to hide the yarn inside of the body.

LEGS
*With cream yarn*
1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]
3. 1sc, 1inc [18]
4. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [18]
5. 4sc, 1dec [15]
6. 1sc in each st around [15]
7. 3sc, 1dec [12]
8. 2sc, 1dec [9]
9. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [9]
FO. Leave long tails to sew the legs onto the body.

ARMS
*With cream yarn*
1. 7sc in the magic ring [7]
2. 1sc in each st around for 8 rows [7]

*Change to purple*

3. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [7]
FO. Leave long tails to sew both arms onto the body.

 

EARS

*With cream yarn*

1. 5sc in the magic ring [5]

2. 1sc in each st around [5]

3. 1inc around [10]

4. 1sc, 1inc [15]

5. 1sc in each st around [15]

FO. Leave long tails to sew both ears onto the head.

 

TAIL

*With cream yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1sc in each st around for 10 rows [6]

FO. Leave a long tail to sew.

 

NOTE: After sewing on everything, you can embroider on the nose and add decorations onto your cat. It’s totally up to you how you would want to decorate your doll! ^o^

 

For any help, you can find NVKatherine:

Deviantart:

http://nvkatherine.deviantart.com/

Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/vi.lenguyennhat

Nice one, isn’t it? 😀

If you have a pattern you made but have no place to show it in public, please feel free to contact me. You can contact me through contact form, here on the blog, or you can find me on the Facebook.

 

Wishing you all wonderful and happy week!

Vanja

 

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Baby Dragon

 

Our BB workshop was working hard for the past month. First I started with little tutorial on different variations how to make crocheted eyes for your dolls and toys. When started I though how it would be piece of cake, but then simple crocheted eyes turned out into so many different sub-groups.

I ended up with comic eyes to crochet, eyes made in layers, 3D crocheted eyes, simple black eyes, human eye shape….  At the end realized it will take me a lot of time till finished and shared with you.

As I didn’t want to stay to long, from my blogging, I decided to take a break creating something new.

For a long time we didn’t make crocheted toy, and so far I have never made a dragon (and I love dragons. I love Fantasy world and to me sometimes feels as I am living in one). For that reason I decided to make one dragon. Baby dragon to start with.

Pattern is easy, but is pretty long one with all the photos I added, so instead of writing it all here I have added a .pdf in Free Patterns page and decided to treat you with additional photos of two of my dragons born in my BB shop.

First I made a boy one. It is the green one you can see on the photos, but even If I haven’t mention he was a boy you would notice it straight away.

Girl dragon was the second one I worked on, wile testing the pattern and adjusting it so everyone can make a dragon to keep or share.

They are both so adorable and to be honest thinking on hiding them when my nieces will come over so they don’t take them away from me (joking).

They measure only 13 cm or 5 inches when seated and are as sweet as candies.

Leaving you with several photos of my babies I hope you will enjoy.

 

Wishing you all wonderful Friday and blessed end of the week.

Vanja

Baby girl dragon by Vanja Grundmann-AmigurumiBB Free pattern

Baby girl dragon - back view Free pattern by Vanja Grundmann/AmigurumiBBBaby Dragons - Free pattern by Vanja Grundmann/AmigurumiBBBaby Dragons by Vanja Grundmann–AmigurumiBBBaby Dragons - by Vanja Grundmann - AmigurumiBBBaby Dragons - AmigurumiBB

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Happy Easter

To all that celebrate and are getting ready for Sunday, wishing HAPPY EASTER!

DSC02733

For this occasion prepared special little treat chick and bunny I made following the free patterns from the fellow bloggers. Both creative designers and dear friends.

First one is the Rainbow Chick

DSC02739

This super awesome rainbow chick comes from Jennifer and her SquirrelPicnic.

The pattern you can find here:

Rainbow Chicken Crochet Pattern

 

It is easy and so much fun project to do. Find out why are rainbow chicks so rare and why so special in Jennifer’s comics.

Rainbow chick comic Part1:

SQUIRREL PICNIC (the comic): The Mystery of the Rainbow Chicken Part 1

Rainbow chick comic Par2:

SQUIRREL PICNIC (the comic): The Mystery of the Rainbow Chicken Part 2

 

The second one comes from Amilovesgurumi, and Karin’s Easter bunny school.

DSC02741

My bunny is made with thread that is why he ended up tiny like this 🙂

This nice and easy pattern to follow and make you can find here:

Easter Bunnies

 

Next one is just some bunny I found pattern on the internet. On one of the  Russian forums. The pattern doesn’t state the author or original designer and for that reason can’t share the link to it, so will show just the photo. Look how lovely this bunny is:

DSC02747

WIsh photo can show you how soft this bunny is and how cuddly in real he looks. Working on the pattern made few changes such as longer arms and legs. Really nice bunny pattern for babies and small children.

 

To finish with, addin one more photo with all of them together. Wishing you happy weekend and for those that celebrate

Happy Easter!

DSC02732

Vanja

 

 

(sorry for not making “normal” links but have very hard time writing posts and creating anything on my blog lately because of very old computer I am working at. Sometimes I just can’t see the buttons to add or create links. Sorry for this, really hope these old fashioned write the link way will work for all)

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Bunny Family Easter Portrait

Hello dear friends,

It is little bit more than one month till Easter! This year my Easter bunnies wanted to share their family photos with you. They were also so very kind that allowed me to write the pattern so all of you can make their relatives and send us their photos when done. This way all the bunnies will see their relatives around the world and will be able to make a family album and maybe even create a family tree 🙂

Let me introduce the Bunny Familly

Bunny Familly Easter Greetings

As you can see it is pretty much the modern Bunny family; grandparents, mom and dad an one child (in tis case son).

Lets look at some more photos from their family album

Here are Bunny grandparents with their grandson. Grandma was first I made. From her pattern all other bunnies were born (It should have been grandpa, but….I started with the girl this time 🙂 )

buny grandparenst with their grandson

On the next photo are young mom and dad with their son. The pattern you are going to have is for this kind of bunny. I have written down as many details as I could. Eyes are crocheted as well, and you will find instructions on how to make them as well.

mama, papa and their son

Here the ladies decided to take photo alone…the little one jumped in last second.

bunny girls

One photo with boys only

bunny boys

The pattern is ready for download  here

For any questions regarding the pattern, please feel free to contact me. I really hope you will make a bunny or two and don’t forget to send photos for our family album!

Lots of love form Bunny Family and

Vanja ♡

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Zombi me…

Last week I announced doll I was working on,  zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.

In most of European countries,  the February is month of carnivals.

“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)

I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course,  because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉

All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!

Here is zombi me

Zombi Vanja - AmigurumiBBThis doll was made from my second try.

FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.

Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀

Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.

Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.

Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.

Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.

The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.

Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.

This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but  now I know more and will share it with you.

Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.

What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.

Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.

They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.

My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.

Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.

♡ Vanja

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Mooshka dolls

This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.

Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.

Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Mooshka dolls2Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.

To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. Mooshka-orangeMooshka-side viewMooshka-back viewAs you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.Mooshka-blueI have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.

Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).

 

Materials needed:

Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress

The rest of the doll  (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.

Matching hook

Stuffing

Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.

Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.

If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).

Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.

Embroidery needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link  http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

 

Head

I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.

With yarn in flash color of your choice

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R10-R19 sc60

R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)

R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)

R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)

R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)

R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)

R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck

Neck area

R1 sc18

R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R9-R10 Sc60 x2

 

Forming arms

Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)

R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count

R2-R21 Sc15

Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)

R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc1*  x5 (10 sts)

R24 Sc10

R25 Dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.

 

Next arm:

Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm

Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)

 

Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.

I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.

 

Body

Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.

Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.

 

R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)

R2 Sc34

R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)

(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)

R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)

R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)

R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)

R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)

R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)

R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)

Change color for panties

R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)

R11-R16 Sc42

R17 *Dec1, sc5*  x6 (36 sts)

Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing  last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.

First we will sew the body.

Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)

Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).

Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.

 

Legs x2

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4-R5 Sc24

R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)

Change color (shoe is done)

R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)

R8-R32 Sc18

Stuff legs nice and firm

Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.

Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.

Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.

Hair

Color of your choice

Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)

R8-R17 Sc40

R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)

R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)

R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)

R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)

R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)

R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)

R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)

R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)

R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)

Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)

sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc  on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.

Pony tails can be made many ways.

We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.

 

Simple buns (blue haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 sc12

R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the bun well

R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.

 

Longer buns (orange haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the first part

R4 inc6 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12

R8 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff second ball

R9 inc6 (12 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R11-R12 sc18

R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R14 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing

Dress

Ch29

Sc28

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)

Dc42

Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)

Dc56

Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)

Sc32

Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)

Dc48

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)

Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds

Ch2, dc64 x5

Change color

Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around

Eyes and creating dolls face

Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.

To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.

If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.

 

Crocheted eyes:

With black embroidery thread

Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch

Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown

Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)

Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.

For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.

For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.

Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.

Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.

You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.

You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.

Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.

 

Place the lips two rounds below the nose.

Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.

Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).

Mooshka dolls

And that it is! Your Moosha is done! 

Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.

Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!

 

♡ Vanja 

Posted on

Marsupilami

Meet Marsupilami!!!

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Marsupilami is a fictional comic book species created by Andre Franquin, first published on 31 January 1952 in the Franco-Belgian comics magazine Spirou.

You can visit YouTube and look for Marsupilami cartoons and have lots of fun and laugh at his jungle adventures 😀

After that you can take your yarns and hook and make one for yourself and have fun every day watching this silly creature gooofing around your room with his silly face, long bouncing ears and tail.

Marsupilami was done few weeks ago, but was waiting for my friends from the Facebook group to finish trying out the pattern so the final pattern comes out with as little mistakes as possible.

One more look of to Marsupilami and we can get started with the pattern.

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Materials needed

Matching yarn and hook accordingly you will need

crochet hook (I used 2,5 mm and DK-medium weigh cotton yarn)

yarn:

– yellow,

– light peach (beige),

– little bits of white and black (for eyes and nose)

Embroidery & darning needles

Stuffing

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two stc stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stich – 2dc under same stitch; follow the link for explanation and how to.

http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

Work is done in continuous rounds (spiral work). Use marker  for easier round following.

Head

Using yellow yarn

Ch6

R1 sc4 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 sc54

R10 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11-R14 sc60

R15 *dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 *dec1 sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff the head some more if needed.

Feet-legs-body

Feet and hands are done with light peach or beige color yarn, while the rest is crocheted with yellow

 

First make leg fingers

Start working with light peach color yarn or beige

 

Make 2

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

Tie off

 

Make one (middle finger)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Tie off.

 

And the last finger we won’t tie off but will continue

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger (longer one) and continue with 3sc over middle finger, bring the next finger. You will make 6sc over this finger, working around the finger pointing to back side of middle finger direction; continue stitching 3sc of middle finger; now back to finger we have started from, making 6sc. Round is finished with total of 18 sts (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff the fingers at this point.

R8 at this round we will connect thumb sc3, now sc3 through thumb and working piece (in order to connect them), sc12 (18 sts)

R9 sc3, sc3 just over thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc12 (18 sts)

R10 sc10, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold the last row in half and slip stitch through 7 stitches (this can be difficult as the piece is small, if you find it easier, you can sew the back instead).

What we have done here, is closed the foot. Now it is round, opened only on top side, where we’ll continue with crocheting the leg.

Reaching the end – closing the back of the foot (after 7 sts made) change color to yellow.

Add more stuffing to the foot and continue stuffing the leg as you go.

R13 make 12sc around the top edge of the foot made (continue working in continuous rounds)

R14 sc12 back lops only

(this is in case you want to ad fringes to ad more fur looking body. It is optional. I have made back loops on all, legs, arms and neck, but added fringes only around neck area.)

R15-R28 sc12

Note: to add knees make 3cluster stitches (each with 2dc) in the front area of the round 19.

At the end of R28 tie off and cut ends.

This leg we have just made was right side one.

 

Here are the instructions to make left side leg (the foot makes the difference)

 

Left foot

 

Start making leg as written above.  Changes on the pattern will start at R8.

 

R8 sc7, sc3 through both –thumb and working piece stitches, sc8 (18 sts)

R9 sc7, sc3 just through thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc8 (18 sts)

R10 sc1, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold these tow rows you worked at in half (right sides facing each other)

 

Continue with the pattern as written above, but don’t cut the thread and tie off.

 

Legs finished,

making body:

 

Connect legs

R1 Ch3, continue making sc on right leg; sc12, sc3 (over the back side of chain made at start) sc12 (left leg) (30 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R3-R12 sc36

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14-R15 sc30

R16 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R21 sc24

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R23 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm.

R24 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R25 sc12 back loops only

R26 sc12

Finish stuffing the body. Ad some more stuffing at the time when sewing head and body together to make the neck part nice and firm.

Arms x2

Firs make fingers

Each hand will have four fingers. Middle finger is one round longer.

 

Make2 (for each hand)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

 

Middle finger

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Last finger to go:

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger and stitch over it 3sc, bring next finger and sc6, (continue working around the fingers as you go), sc3 over middle finger previously added, sc6 over starting finger (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff fingers.

R8 connecting thumb round (both arms are the same) – sc5, sc3 through double stitches (thumb and working piece), sc 10 (18 sts)

R9 sc5, sc3 (thumb only) sc10 (18 sts)

Change color to yellow

Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm as you go.

R10 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R11 work in back loops only if wish to add fringes on hands *dec1, sc4* x2 (10 sts)

R12-R31 sc10

To add elbows, make 3 cluster stitches with 2dc each. Add them around rounds17-18.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Eyes x2

With white yarn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

Ti off leaving long end for sewing

 

Black pupils are placed in the inner sides of eyes, between rows 2-3. I have painted mine, but if you are using safety eyes or beads this is the place where to position them.

White eye parts are placed next to each other on the upper half side of the head. (eyes and mouth piece will meet on the middle of the head (so pay attention to that).

Nose will be placed the way to touch the outer eye line and will go through 4-5 rounds over the mouth piece.

Nose

With black yarn

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3 sc in one st, sc5, 2 sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 *inc1. sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R3 sc24

R4 *dec1, sc1* x8 (16 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose on the head. Stuff the nose well.

Place and sew the nose as described above.

Mouth-facial piece

With light peach or beige

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1 sc5* x6 (42 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4-R8 sc24

R9 *dec1, sc10* x2 (22 sts)

R10 sc22

R11 *dec1, sc9* x2 (20 sts)

R12 sc20

R13 *dec1, sc8* x2 (18 sts)

R14 sc18

R15 *dec1, sc7* x2 (16 sts)

R16 sc16

R17 *dec1, sc6* x2 (14 sts)

R18 sc14

R19 *dec1, sc5* x2 (12 sts)

R10-R17 sc12

Flatten the ears, tie off leaving long end for sewing them on the head later.

Belly

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 Inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing

Position the belly on the lower side of the body and sew it nicely.

Tail

Sc6 in magic ring

R1-… make tail as long as you like using 6sc Marsupilami has very long tail. I suggest making it 26 cm (12”). That size won’t make it too long and will still be nice and long.

Last 5 rounds *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts), next 4rounds stitch 8sc for firmer tail body connection.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Time to sew all body parts together.

Connect head and body. Sew on the arms. Place them around rounds 24-25. Round 25 needs to be left free as you will put additional hairs here to create fur around neck.

At the end place on and sew the ears. Sew them on top sides of the head, rounds 5-6.

When sewing use one round stitches on the head and sew through both loops of the ears. Try to make them point upwards so ears can appear fluffy and in motion.

At the end sew the tail on.

Position it centered on the lower back side of the body, 5-6 rounds upwards from feet connected round.

What is left is to embroider black spots on it’s body.

Making fur around neck (arms and legs) is optional.

As you could see, I left front loops on arms, legs and around neck area. I have put on these extra hairs around neck only.

It is done as making hair. You will hook and knot yarn pieces through front loops, and when all done, trim it in V shape (longer points in front and back).

I have also added a fish Marsupilami holds in his hand. You can add it as well if you wish.

.pdf of the pattern you can find here:

http://amigurumibb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/marsupilami.pdf

We have to finish our toy with one more tiny detail and it is fish Marsupilami is holding.

Fish

With same size hook and yarn of your choice

Make 2 (tail fins)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 dec4 (4 sts)

R4 connect both fin pieces, making 8sc around

R5 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x2 ( 14 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R10-R12 sc20

From next round we’ll start decreasing so start stuffing the body as you go.

R13 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R16  dec4 (4 sts)

By now fish should be stuffed well. Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle with excess yarn and close the last round nicely.

Upper fin, slip stitch to 8th round top stitch on the body (work through top stitches of rounds8-5) ch1, hdc in same st, 2dc in next two sts, hdc in 4th st and sc in same

Tie off, hide ends

 

Lower side fins

Here start at 7th round stitch; ch1, hdc in same stitch, 2dc in next st, hdc &sc in third st (tie off, hide ends)

Repeat at both sides paying attention to make them as symmetrical as possible.

With white yarn and embroidery needle sew on the eyes. With black thread ad pupils on top of each eye.

Hope the fish was not difficult to make and it ended up cute.

And that’s it! Your Marsupilami is finished! Hope you have enjoyed making him and even more will enjoy playing!Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Thank you,

♡ Vanja

Posted on

Quack quack babies

Last year I have introduced Quack Quack parents. Hope you still remember them. They were accepted very well and have seen many of them done for the past few months.

One of the nice blog followers who is with me since the first day I started here is dear friend Amanda Turner. She came up with completely new pattern using the Quack one I made. She made duckling and drake first, but then was missing the baby. In order to do that she cut the original pattern in half; rows, stitches….and came up with baby duckling. Miniature, miniature duckling to make and add to duckling family.

Amanda sent me the pattern to try out and I was thrilled the way duckling was coming out. First one I made was with 5 ply cotton yarn and 2 mm hook and it ended up not bigger than 6 cm (2 1⁄2″). Being so sweet and huggable decided to try to make one even tinier than that. Grabbed 1,5 mm hook and thread no.10 and made little baby duckling of 4,5 cm (2″) tall.

What can I tell you except Amanda did great job. Pattern is easy to follow, easy to make and duckling is more than adorable.

Here are two of my little baby ducklings

Quack brothers

I have already added the .pdf of the pattern you can find here, under Free Patterns page.

Hope you will enjoy these little ones as much as I did!

All thanks to Amanda and her great job done making this pattern available for us.

Minie quacks

Posted on

Naughty to Nice…

This week our adventure with smurfalicious smurfs continues.

For those who have seen Smurfs2 are familiar with two naughty surfs, Smurfettes brother and sister

Vexy and Hackus! Both were created by bad and evil Gargamel and have caused lots of troubles for Papa Smurf and the crew!

Vexy & Hackus Smurfs

As you can see they are pigment-less and are grey, but that is still making them adorable Smurfs to add to your collection.

Pattern used to create these two little ones is the same as for basic Smurf/Smurfette. Different are the colors used and hair styles in order to achieve characteristic features for each.

In my pattern I have gave you directions on how to make each one. You will need to work with both patterns.  Smurf Pattern  and Vexy & Hackus Smurfs Pattern

If you will need help with shoe making you can always refer to Smurf Shoe Pattern for help.

I will be making new tutorial on how to attach the fingers and make hands to make it easiest possible for everyone to achieve best results when it comes to hand making.

Vexy Smurfette

Hackus Smurf hope you will enjoy these two naughty once same way as blue smurfs, and hope you will have fun making them too. For any help you will need, or question you might have, please feel free to write and ask.

Vexy & Hackus SmurfsWishing you all happy Friday and even happier and more fun weekend!

With kind regards and hugs to all,

Vanja

Posted on

Smurfalicious Smurfs Smurfed…

out of my craft room! 

For entire last week have worked on this Smurf(s) pattern and finally they are ready to be presented!

So far only three are finished.

Smurfette, Papa Smurf and Clumsy

Smurfs

Was fun working on them. Hope it will be fun for you as well. Not to mention the happiness of children who will have chance to play with the.

Still have to make two new naughty Smurfs, from Smurf2 movie….but about them when I find the right yarn color and make them.

The pattern is ready and you can find it here:

Smurf Pattern

There is also tutorial on how to make Smurf’s shoes, as I have worked on them as making slippers kind of way; toes, heel, top…. For that reason, to make it easier for you with this part and as suggested by dear friend Araceliz who was testing the pattern, I have made this photo tutorial as well.

You can download it here:

Smurf Shoe Pattern

I would also like to mention that Smurf and The Smurfs are copyrighted characters. This pattern is for personal use only! Please keep that in mind.

Have fun making them, and have your children and grandchildren have fun playing with them!

Smurfs2

Smurfs3

Wishing you all smurfest end of this week, and smurfalicious weekned!

Hugs to all,

Vanja

 

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Fairy Dolls

As I said in the title, new fairies were born at my house this week 😀

Fairies

I have really enjoyed every second of this week so far! Making Fairies is more than making crocheted dolls it is making fantasy world come true. Making magic!

Not all the time making dolls make me smile while I am working. This was more like playing and loving it! 😀

Looking at them, all three like this, together, even though they are fairies, and good ones, they seem as they’ve done something wrong and begging for forgiveness 😀

Good news is, I have finished the Fairy house, and have made two more fairies finishing the pattern for this doll as well. The fairies you have seen and here is the house, ready and waiting for my niece to come.

Fairy houseFairy house

There is furniture inside, but the door started to crack and had to glue them in order to keep everything in one piece. Was hard for me to make a photo to show you interior of the house. With 0,4 mm wire I made tiny chair, table and baldehin bed. added seed beads in pink and purple, pink tulle for baldehin. Heart shaped carpet in white felt on the floor, tiny little pink felt pillow and blanket. Two paintings I glued on the walls….

It is cute. All is very tiny. Chair is less than 1 cm high so you can imagine what kind of work that was.

Every window has this fake glass (made out of clear plastic) so peaking can be done from the outside. Hardly, but hey…it is fairy inside and they are shy 😉

Will let you know what my niece will say when she sees the house!

Think we can continue with our fairies and the pattern. As you can see there are three different hair styles and I will try to give you pattern on how to make all of them. Possibilities on making the fairy are really endless. With this basic pattern and little of your imagination you can do miracles. And I really hope you will! Hope you will enjoy every second creating magic in your own home, making one of these cute ones.fairies

Let us begin!

For the fairies I have used 2 mm crochet hook and Patons 100% cotton yarn, DK.

They ended about 16 cm tall

I also used golden and silver thread to add sparkle to the wings. Used some glitter on centers of the flowers I have added as details on hair or shoes.

You will also need little bit of liquid fabric starch to harden the wings and to form hair into better shape (I used fabric starch on ears as well).

Doll is made in continuous rounds (head, legs, body, arms)

If you will find anything you don’t understand in the pattern, let me know so can help you out.

Fairy Doll

Head

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12  sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts) – increasing part (inc12) will be your front face. Part where nose will be sewed and eyes placed (right above row)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc3* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (20 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

Sew the nose on the middle of row14, through 2 vertical stitches

Ears (make 2)

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Ch4 on 5th stitch made sl st1, sc1, hdc1 (to chain made)

R2 sc4, sl st1

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears will be sewn, on sides of the head.  Starting row14 –  16 (downwards) and two stitches on row 16 towards back of the ear. You have to stitch 4 stitches in circle shape.

Legs & body

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body are the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

If you wish to make flat shoes, with more of leg color showing, change color to skin color yarn you will use and continue from here. If you prefer making closed shoes, as ones we used on BB dolls, continue with shoe yarn color for the next three rows.

R4: 18 sc

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

(Change color of the thread if you haven’t on R3)

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-R21

R22-23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 sc12 blo (back loops only)

Change color to skin color you use for the doll to make final two rows.

R28-R29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the body, starting at R22

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R22, ch1

R1 inc18 (38 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

Tie off, hide ends.

On R23 (we left with front loops as well) make a dress “decoration”.

You can use various edging stitches here. I used the most simple ones, but don’t let that stop you from making beautiful fairy dress you are dreaming of. If you have some nice edging stitch you would like to try out, this is great moment to do so.

I have made it this way:

Pink one:  ch3, skip1, sl st, ch3, skip1, slst…..

White/blue one: Leave 6 stitches in front, start with making  sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, dc1, hdc1, sc1, sl st1, *ch3, skip1, sl st* x5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, hdc1, sc1, sl st1. In front where 6 stitches were left, tie a bow or make some other decoration. You can even slip stitch those 6 stitches to connect sides…

Yellow/green one: at this one I forgot to left front loops 😀 So instead of crocheting directly on dress, I just made a chain and tide a little bow at front. It is loose.

Neck decoration (optional)

Use same pattern you have used for dress decoration.

Arms

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R8 sc6

Change color to one you are using for dress decoration.

R9-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Note:

Pink fairy’s arms are done completely in skin color yarn. Then the shoulders that were done making ch11, sc10 (with picoe at 5th stitch) were sewed at the dress (which was done differently. Is fitting the body, not done as part of the body making process).

I warmly recommend making the dress as shown above, rather than making the body and then dress separately, but you can do as you like it better of feel more comfortable with.

Hair

Yellow fairyYellow FairyFairy

R1 sc8 in magic ring

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)

At this point we are making hairs. Each hair at one stitch around row 4

For the bangs:

ch16, starting at second stitch from the hook inc5, sl st10 – make 8 of them

The rest of the hair:

ch26, starting at second stitch from the hook in 10, sl st15 – make 24 of them

Pink fairyPink FairyFairyFairy

 Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back in addition are made ringlets for pony tail and bun to hold the ringlets.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc8 in magic ring (do not close the ring!!!)

Ch1, turn and continue with R2

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

Here we will have 16 hairs

At this fairy’s hair we have no ringlets. Every hair is done with chain and slip stitches on the way back.

I will indicate how many chain stitches there are for each hair, for all 16 there are to make this piece.

1 & 2: ch26 (25 slip stitches) – These two hairs (on each side) you will use to wrap  and sew around back piece’s edge, behind the ear.

3. 4 & 5: ch17 (16 slip stitches) – Side hairs, placed in front of ear.

6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11: ch10 (9 slip stitches) – bangs

12, 13 & 14: ch17 (16 slip stitches – Side hair, in front of ear to be placed

15 & 16: ch 26 (25 slip stitches) – back hairs. Behind ear and to wrap to back piece.

Back of the hair:

Ch8

*Sl st3, sc2, hdc2*

Repeat ** stitching in BLO (back loops only)

Make 30 rows like this before closing.

Also check if the round piece fits your dolls head. Add row or two if necessary.

You will have a hole in the middle that we will use to make a pony tail

Ringlets for pony tail:

Ch36-41

I made 4 ringlets in different stitch count (from 35-40 stitches)

R1 inc each stitch

Reaching end of first ringlet, just chain again and continue making new one

Bun to close the hair piece hole and hold ringlets at place:

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end to sew the bun on

As you have finished all the hair pieces place them on the head. Pin them well before sewing.

Place ringlet’s (where they attach one to another) into the bun. You can use little bit of stuffing to tie them in the bun before sewing the bun on the head.

Now sew little by little. Starting with back of the hair and the ringlets. When that is done, decorate the front piece. Pin it how you would like hairs to go.

Here is my tip:

Sew the basic lines you wish hair to go and how to look.

The final touch you will get by using fabric starch to fix the hair look the way you want it. I used liquid one. Got my fingers wet and used it directly on the hair, forming it and modeling until I felt was good enough or the way I wanted it.

Use fabric starch at the end. When doll is completely done. Making the hair look nice is your final touch making the doll.

Blue fairy:Blue FairyFairyFairyFairy

Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back piece, or better said the sides of it, two buns to hold the pony tails were added.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc5 in magic ring

R2 in5 (10 sts)

Now hair making of the chains from every stitch in row2 – 10 hairs

1, 2 & 3: ch21; inc10, sl st10 (20 sts) – two are going behind ear, one in front.

4: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

5 & 6: ch 11; sl st10 (10 sts) – bangs

7: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

8, 9 & 10: ch21; inc10, sl st 10 – one in front of ear, two behind

Back of the head piece:

Ch15

You will be working on both sides of the chain. Same procedure as with the front piece; chains and slip stitches back to create hairs.

In each of the 15 stitches chain 9- sl st8

When done connect each hair’s end with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Now repeat the same for the other side of the chain. 15 stitches, 15 hairs with ch9; sl st8. Connect the ends with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Pony tails:

Ch 26; inc15, sl st 10

Make three for each side

Buns to hold the tails:

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

WingsFairies

For wings I used the pattern you can find on the following link.

http://nerospost.wordpress.com/2013/01/25/crochet-butterfly-pattern/

It is butterfly pattern and is very easy to be made.  Please note that the pattern uses UK terms! 

I was looking for firm but yet enough lacy kind of wings and these seemed perfect.

They really are!

I used fabric starch on them as well so they stay firm and really nice.

On two of the wings, pink and green fairy, together with white yarn I used a golden thread to make wings sparkling.

On blue fairy I used silver thread, what I liked more but unfortunately didn’t have enough of it for entire wings. Silvery was just about how I wanted it. Hardly noticed but yet was giving this little touch of magic. Golden thread is little more aggressive for my taste, but you do and use what you have available or like.

You can try with different butterfly patterns. There are no limits to ones imagination.

I always try to encourage you to try different things, to try adding something own to whole project. I am just giving you idea on what could be done.

In this case, possibilities to make the fairy are really endless. You can decorate her dress many, many different ways. You can add tiny details to her hair, shoes….

You can make hair many ways as well. Here are just three basic patterns that you can work on and make endless hair styles.

Make long big ringlets or make short hair fairy…

If you wish to bring magic to your finished doll….think magic….make it.

You can always ask me for any help. Will be glad to help you and share what I know and can.

Almost forgot to mention details I have made on the fairies such as tiny flowers, tiaras.

Flowers I used n the shoes:

Was looking for tiniest flowers I could do with same yarn used for entire doll, but whatever there from the patterns available or those I use often were to big.

So I ended up making this tiny flowers this way:

Ch3, sl st to 3rd ch from the hook, ch2, sl st to the same chain st….repeat to reach 5 petals.

You can do this with magic ring as well. Think it might be evenbetter (you can close the ring completely)

Start with sc1 in magic ring, ch1, sl st to magic ring and repeat until you reach 5 petals. Tie off.

Tiaras:

Both tiaras (on pink and green fairy) were done the same way. Pink one was done with thread so was very loose and had to put it on a wire to stay firm.

Green one was sprinkled with glitter after starched and placed on the head (I sewed this one on the head)

Both were done by making desired length chain

First row was done in single crochet

The second one was done ch3, skip one, sl st1, ch3…..

Flowers on blue fairy, one I used in hair were made my usual way.

Sc5 in magic ring

Sl st 5th to 1st

Ch2, hdc1, sl st to next st…

Repeat for all five petals

Fairies

 If I have missed anything or you wish to find out more, please feel free to write and ask.

I hope you will enjoy making these magic dolls! Make sure to share you photos with us!

Thank you everyone!!!!

Have a magic weekend!

Love and hugs,

Vanja