crocheted dolls – Page 2

Posted on September 5, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 45 Comments

BB Boys

Finally we have got the BB Boys!!!

Two best friends enjoying to play together! 🙂

This is the second one of my promises made last week. Still have one more to finish to be done with them all (Oopsie doll’s new outfit to make) 😉

if it wasn’t for Millylyly, who knows when these two would be created. I am glad she asked me to design boy’s hair. For starters made these two versions. Curly and strait, which are the two most common. Made in different colors, playing a little bit with length (if one likes) will give quite several hair styles for your dolls.

Boys are called BB Boys, because the head and the body (together with legs) are done the same way as BB Dolls. Differences made were at arms length; where these two have total count of 10 rows (by 6 stitches in each row), and instead of dress these two are wearing trousers; and off course HAIR!

For the time being don’t have the pattern for the trousers I trust would make good results each time made. Darker blue trousers were done with 1,75 mm needle and finer yarn and those look good and fit good. The the second ones (lighter blue) I made with same weight yarn I used for dolls, changed the row/stitch count to fit the body, but am not satisfied with result.

This week will work on the trousers pattern and will have it for you next.

Have to be honest that was afraid how to get this “boy’s” face expression using 4 mm black, wooden beads as I used for BB dolls, and after all using same pattern that was created for girl dolls in mind.

As you can see, boy’s eyes I placed closer. Instead of leaving 8 stitches space between them, they have only 4. Added embroidered nose, but this is optional.

One more photo of boys playing before we continue on hair pattern.

BB Boys

For both of the hair bases, classic oval shape of 30 stitches count needs to be done. I have made mine this way.

For both hairs is the same! Oval shape, 30 stitches count row before making the stylish hair cut!

ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue around the chain, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1,sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

Brown hair boy:

You will be making hairs out of each stitch of all 30 stitches row count.

Hairs are done our usual way, chain and slip stitches return. Once done with the base of the hair (30 stitches oval reached) continue the hairs following this chain(s) count

make:

12 x ch11 (those will make back of the head hairs) – starting from second stitch from the hook slip stitch following 10 stitches, reaching the end, slip stitch to next stitch on the base row and ch11 (repeat this for all of 12 stitches ch11, before continuing to ch10…..)

2 x ch10 -side hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch7 – front hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch10 – side hairs

4 x ch11 – back hairs

Finish off! Leave long end for sewing the hair to the head. You have made 30 hairs!

For the yellow hair style – curly one;

Once the base of the hair is made (as per the pattern on how to make the base and oval shape, above),

continue making curls in every second stitch of the base row.

here is how to do that. As you finish R4, slip stitch to the first stitch of R5,

ch16, starting at second stitch fro the hook inc15.

Once you reach the “base” slip stitch 2 following stitches, ch16 and repeat inc15

Here is the hair “length” count you have to do in order to get the right shape.

7 x ch16

6 x ch11

2 x ch16

Finish off leaving long end for sewing the hair to head.

Once done, sew the base of the hair to the head. Arrange the hairs the way you would like them to be/stay and sew or glue them. I didn’t sew the hairs! I used hot glue to fix them on the head.

If you will have problems understanding how the hair is made, let me know and will try to help. The procedure is very easy, but somehow I always make it sooooo complicated 😀

I am here to help you out, so do not hesitate to ask!

Wishing you all great end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

Regards,

Vanja

Posted on August 23, 2013August 24, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 67 Comments

Fairy Dolls

As I said in the title, new fairies were born at my house this week 😀

Fairies

I have really enjoyed every second of this week so far! Making Fairies is more than making crocheted dolls it is making fantasy world come true. Making magic!

Not all the time making dolls make me smile while I am working. This was more like playing and loving it! 😀

Looking at them, all three like this, together, even though they are fairies, and good ones, they seem as they’ve done something wrong and begging for forgiveness 😀

Good news is, I have finished the Fairy house, and have made two more fairies finishing the pattern for this doll as well. The fairies you have seen and here is the house, ready and waiting for my niece to come.

There is furniture inside, but the door started to crack and had to glue them in order to keep everything in one piece. Was hard for me to make a photo to show you interior of the house. With 0,4 mm wire I made tiny chair, table and baldehin bed. added seed beads in pink and purple, pink tulle for baldehin. Heart shaped carpet in white felt on the floor, tiny little pink felt pillow and blanket. Two paintings I glued on the walls….

It is cute. All is very tiny. Chair is less than 1 cm high so you can imagine what kind of work that was.

Every window has this fake glass (made out of clear plastic) so peaking can be done from the outside. Hardly, but hey…it is fairy inside and they are shy 😉

Will let you know what my niece will say when she sees the house!

Think we can continue with our fairies and the pattern. As you can see there are three different hair styles and I will try to give you pattern on how to make all of them. Possibilities on making the fairy are really endless. With this basic pattern and little of your imagination you can do miracles. And I really hope you will! Hope you will enjoy every second creating magic in your own home, making one of these cute ones.

Let us begin!

For the fairies I have used 2 mm crochet hook and Patons 100% cotton yarn, DK.

They ended about 16 cm tall

I also used golden and silver thread to add sparkle to the wings. Used some glitter on centers of the flowers I have added as details on hair or shoes.

You will also need little bit of liquid fabric starch to harden the wings and to form hair into better shape (I used fabric starch on ears as well).

Doll is made in continuous rounds (head, legs, body, arms)

If you will find anything you don’t understand in the pattern, let me know so can help you out.

Fairy Doll

Head

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts) – increasing part (inc12) will be your front face. Part where nose will be sewed and eyes placed (right above row)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc3* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (20 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

Sew the nose on the middle of row14, through 2 vertical stitches

Ears (make 2)

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Ch4 on 5^th stitch made sl st1, sc1, hdc1 (to chain made)

R2 sc4, sl st1

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears will be sewn, on sides of the head. Starting row14 – 16 (downwards) and two stitches on row 16 towards back of the ear. You have to stitch 4 stitches in circle shape.

Legs & body

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body are the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

If you wish to make flat shoes, with more of leg color showing, change color to skin color yarn you will use and continue from here. If you prefer making closed shoes, as ones we used on BB dolls, continue with shoe yarn color for the next three rows.

R4: 18 sc

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

(Change color of the thread if you haven’t on R3)

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-R21

R22-23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 sc12 blo (back loops only)

Change color to skin color you use for the doll to make final two rows.

R28-R29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the body, starting at R22

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R22, ch1

R1 inc18 (38 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

Tie off, hide ends.

On R23 (we left with front loops as well) make a dress “decoration”.

You can use various edging stitches here. I used the most simple ones, but don’t let that stop you from making beautiful fairy dress you are dreaming of. If you have some nice edging stitch you would like to try out, this is great moment to do so.

I have made it this way:

Pink one: ch3, skip1, sl st, ch3, skip1, slst…..

White/blue one: Leave 6 stitches in front, start with making sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, dc1, hdc1, sc1, sl st1, *ch3, skip1, sl st* x5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, hdc1, sc1, sl st1. In front where 6 stitches were left, tie a bow or make some other decoration. You can even slip stitch those 6 stitches to connect sides…

Yellow/green one: at this one I forgot to left front loops 😀 So instead of crocheting directly on dress, I just made a chain and tide a little bow at front. It is loose.

Neck decoration (optional)

Use same pattern you have used for dress decoration.

Arms

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R8 sc6

Change color to one you are using for dress decoration.

R9-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Note:

Pink fairy’s arms are done completely in skin color yarn. Then the shoulders that were done making ch11, sc10 (with picoe at 5^th stitch) were sewed at the dress (which was done differently. Is fitting the body, not done as part of the body making process).

I warmly recommend making the dress as shown above, rather than making the body and then dress separately, but you can do as you like it better of feel more comfortable with.

Hair

Yellow fairy

R1 sc8 in magic ring

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)

At this point we are making hairs. Each hair at one stitch around row 4

For the bangs:

ch16, starting at second stitch from the hook inc5, sl st10 – make 8 of them

The rest of the hair:

ch26, starting at second stitch from the hook in 10, sl st15 – make 24 of them

Pink fairy

Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back in addition are made ringlets for pony tail and bun to hold the ringlets.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc8 in magic ring (do not close the ring!!!)

Ch1, turn and continue with R2

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

Here we will have 16 hairs

At this fairy’s hair we have no ringlets. Every hair is done with chain and slip stitches on the way back.

I will indicate how many chain stitches there are for each hair, for all 16 there are to make this piece.

1 & 2: ch26 (25 slip stitches) – These two hairs (on each side) you will use to wrap and sew around back piece’s edge, behind the ear.

3. 4 & 5: ch17 (16 slip stitches) – Side hairs, placed in front of ear.

6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11: ch10 (9 slip stitches) – bangs

12, 13 & 14: ch17 (16 slip stitches – Side hair, in front of ear to be placed

15 & 16: ch 26 (25 slip stitches) – back hairs. Behind ear and to wrap to back piece.

Back of the hair:

Ch8

*Sl st3, sc2, hdc2*

Repeat ** stitching in BLO (back loops only)

Make 30 rows like this before closing.

Also check if the round piece fits your dolls head. Add row or two if necessary.

You will have a hole in the middle that we will use to make a pony tail

Ringlets for pony tail:

Ch36-41

I made 4 ringlets in different stitch count (from 35-40 stitches)

R1 inc each stitch

Reaching end of first ringlet, just chain again and continue making new one

Bun to close the hair piece hole and hold ringlets at place:

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end to sew the bun on

As you have finished all the hair pieces place them on the head. Pin them well before sewing.

Place ringlet’s (where they attach one to another) into the bun. You can use little bit of stuffing to tie them in the bun before sewing the bun on the head.

Now sew little by little. Starting with back of the hair and the ringlets. When that is done, decorate the front piece. Pin it how you would like hairs to go.

Here is my tip:

Sew the basic lines you wish hair to go and how to look.

The final touch you will get by using fabric starch to fix the hair look the way you want it. I used liquid one. Got my fingers wet and used it directly on the hair, forming it and modeling until I felt was good enough or the way I wanted it.

Use fabric starch at the end. When doll is completely done. Making the hair look nice is your final touch making the doll.

Blue fairy:

Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back piece, or better said the sides of it, two buns to hold the pony tails were added.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc5 in magic ring

R2 in5 (10 sts)

Now hair making of the chains from every stitch in row2 – 10 hairs

1, 2 & 3: ch21; inc10, sl st10 (20 sts) – two are going behind ear, one in front.

4: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

5 & 6: ch 11; sl st10 (10 sts) – bangs

7: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

8, 9 & 10: ch21; inc10, sl st 10 – one in front of ear, two behind

Back of the head piece:

Ch15

You will be working on both sides of the chain. Same procedure as with the front piece; chains and slip stitches back to create hairs.

In each of the 15 stitches chain 9- sl st8

When done connect each hair’s end with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Now repeat the same for the other side of the chain. 15 stitches, 15 hairs with ch9; sl st8. Connect the ends with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Pony tails:

Ch 26; inc15, sl st 10

Make three for each side

Buns to hold the tails:

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Wings

For wings I used the pattern you can find on the following link.

http://nerospost.wordpress.com/2013/01/25/crochet-butterfly-pattern/

It is butterfly pattern and is very easy to be made. Please note that the pattern uses UK terms!

I was looking for firm but yet enough lacy kind of wings and these seemed perfect.

They really are!

I used fabric starch on them as well so they stay firm and really nice.

On two of the wings, pink and green fairy, together with white yarn I used a golden thread to make wings sparkling.

On blue fairy I used silver thread, what I liked more but unfortunately didn’t have enough of it for entire wings. Silvery was just about how I wanted it. Hardly noticed but yet was giving this little touch of magic. Golden thread is little more aggressive for my taste, but you do and use what you have available or like.

You can try with different butterfly patterns. There are no limits to ones imagination.

I always try to encourage you to try different things, to try adding something own to whole project. I am just giving you idea on what could be done.

In this case, possibilities to make the fairy are really endless. You can decorate her dress many, many different ways. You can add tiny details to her hair, shoes….

You can make hair many ways as well. Here are just three basic patterns that you can work on and make endless hair styles.

Make long big ringlets or make short hair fairy…

If you wish to bring magic to your finished doll….think magic….make it.

You can always ask me for any help. Will be glad to help you and share what I know and can.

Almost forgot to mention details I have made on the fairies such as tiny flowers, tiaras.

Flowers I used n the shoes:

Was looking for tiniest flowers I could do with same yarn used for entire doll, but whatever there from the patterns available or those I use often were to big.

So I ended up making this tiny flowers this way:

Ch3, sl st to 3^rd ch from the hook, ch2, sl st to the same chain st….repeat to reach 5 petals.

You can do this with magic ring as well. Think it might be evenbetter (you can close the ring completely)

Start with sc1 in magic ring, ch1, sl st to magic ring and repeat until you reach 5 petals. Tie off.

Tiaras:

Both tiaras (on pink and green fairy) were done the same way. Pink one was done with thread so was very loose and had to put it on a wire to stay firm.

Green one was sprinkled with glitter after starched and placed on the head (I sewed this one on the head)

Both were done by making desired length chain

First row was done in single crochet

The second one was done ch3, skip one, sl st1, ch3…..

Flowers on blue fairy, one I used in hair were made my usual way.

Sc5 in magic ring

Sl st 5^th to 1^st

Ch2, hdc1, sl st to next st…

Repeat for all five petals

If I have missed anything or you wish to find out more, please feel free to write and ask.

I hope you will enjoy making these magic dolls! Make sure to share you photos with us!

Thank you everyone!!!!

Have a magic weekend!

Love and hugs,

Vanja

Posted on August 9, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 22 Comments

One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll. Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking! He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25 shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it. Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!

Trousers

ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from behind.

Hair

This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:

ch21

R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .

Hat

Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:

Body

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end

Head

sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts) – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.

Tail

ch5

R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,

Vanja

Posted on August 1, 2013August 1, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 22 Comments

One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage. At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us. This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.

Dress:

You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.

ch16

R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5 -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.

Hat

– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.

Shoes:

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.

ch31

R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration

ch21

R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll.

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!

Posted on July 26, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 45 Comments

One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head. If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.

Abbreviation:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5^th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5^th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7^th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49 sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair, paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on.

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,

Vanja

Posted on June 26, 2013July 1, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 59 Comments

Oopsie Doll

Little LalaOopsie is finished!

Was fun making this little one and hope you will have as much fun making her, as well as you daughters playing with her. Possibilities are endless. Specially when it comes making hair or dress. Looking forward to hear how about your ideas!

Here is the one I made (this is just the first one…many more will follow 🙂 )

Think we can start with the pattern right away. There is a lot of work to do! oopsie

Abbreviation, US terms:

Sc Single crochet

Dc Double crochet

Inc 2 sc in one stitch

Sl.St. Slip stitch

Dec. decrease, invisible decrease or 2 stitches together

Ch Chain

Blo back loops only

Flo front loops only

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

felt: black (for eye lashes and under the button placement)

pink (cheeks)

Black embroidery thread for designing the lips

Two 7 mm buttons

Embroidery and darning needles for sewing up the parts and designing the face

Wire (for legs and arms – to make them flexible and mobile)

P.T.F.E. thread seal tape to secure the wire ends

Stuffing of your choice for the head and body

Finished size of this doll is 23 cm (9 inches)

Gauge per 1 inch (2,5 cm): 9stx8rows

Head

In skin color of your choice:

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R19 sc66 sts

R20 *Dec1, sc9* x6 (60 sts)

R21 *Dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R22 *Dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R23 *Dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R24 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R25 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R26 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R27 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head. Stuff it nice and firm.

R28 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Finish stuffing.

Body

Working on the panties. Choose the color you want panties to be.

R1 sc6 in magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R9 sc36 sts

Change color to one you are using for skin.

R10 sc36 sts

R11 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R12 sc30 sts

R13 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 sc24 sts

R15 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R16 sc18 sts

At this point begin stuffing the body

R17 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head.

Finish stuffing the body

Legs (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2 Inc4 (8 sts)

R3-32 sc30 8sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing

Arms (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3-R4 sc6 sts

R5 ch3, sl.st2 (to this chain you have just made – we are making thumb here), *sc2, inc1* x2 (8 sts)

R6-R25 sc8 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arm to the body later

Now take the legs and hands and wire you have prepared.

Measure the length from one end to another (for leg and arm) and cut wire in same length.

Now use a little bit of stuffing, wrap it tightly on the top of each side of the wire. You can tighten it with some thread if it will be easier for you, take the seal tape and start wrapping it around ends, through the middle, towards the other end, until you have this nice looking, safe piece, with both ends closed and secured.

Here is the photo of materials used in my Oopsie doll and how this “stick” looks like before put into arm or leg.

wire sticks finished stick

As you finish all four of the sticks place them inside the limbs.

Make another one short though, about 5 cm ( 2 inches) long. This one make little bit thicker (If the wire is narrow as mine, fold it twice and twist it a little before wrapping it and making it safe. This piece we will use for head-body connection so the head doest wobble around.

Now you can start sewing the body parts together.

Start with head and body first.

Place the “stick” (wire) in the middle of both parts and sew the head and body nicely through all of 12 stitches. Add some stuffing if needed.

Legs:

Sew the legs on the bottom of the body, starting at R2-R6 at each side.

Safety pin them, check them twice and sew them nicely.

Arms:

Place arms on the sides of the body. Place them second row below from where the head and body are sewed together. Sew them through two rows, nicely. Be aware to place the thumb pointing front.

Lala

we can start working on hair

Hair

In color of your choice

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R15 sc66 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head.

Ringlets

I have done mine in pair of two bunches, but then sewed them all together to look as made in one piece.

You can do the hair many different ways. You can make ringlets longer or shorter. You can make them thicker or thinner. You can make them less or more in numbers.

Start working, make few, place it on the head and see if you like them to be that way. Play and have fun. It really is fun! 😀

I will give you directions n how I did the ringlets. Will give you the instructions on two bunches with 5 ringlets each and you decide if you will make them looking as one or will sew them as two pony tails on each side of the head.

I made each different size. Some are the same, some are not. Was making the chains from 45-50 stitches.

In instructions will say 45 for each ringlet, but you increase or decrease as much as you like it.

Ch 47

Starting at the third stitch from the hook, stitch 3dc, repeat this for each stitch on this chain. (3dc in one st)

Reaching the end chain 47 again and repeat 3dc in each st.

This way make all 5 ringlets. Tie off and leave long end for sewing them on the head later.

Make two of such ringlets bunches.

Bangs

I did almost the same way. Didn’t have the same shade of purple that’s why these are little bit darker. Use same color yarn for the bangs.

For the bangs I also started with chain

Ch23

Sl.st.22

Make 3 more the same way

Instead of crocheting the bangs, you can just sew on few bangs on top of the head when hair will be done (before placing the bow). It is easier and also gives very nice effect. Oopsie1

Shoes

Starting with sole base (chose the color)

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3sc in one st, continue working on the other side of the chain, sc5, 2sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 inc1, sc5, inc3, sc5 inc2 (22 sts)

Change color in one you like shoes to be.

R3-R4 sc22 sts

R5 sc5, dec3, sc8 (16 sts)

R6 sc5, dec4, sc5 (14 sts)

R7 sc6, ch1 turn backwards and stitch 12 sts

(from this point on we will be working the rows, not continuous rounds)

R8-R13 sc12 sts

Change color (or use this one you have been working with) and single crochet around the edges .

Wave in the shoe laces with needle and thread of your choice.

I made chain and used it as shoe lace, but you can use a piece of yarn or thin bow.

You can make boots higher if you like.

Or, what can be done is to stitch the socks using the back loops only on the boots (making the sock or just nice lace effect coming out of the boots). Giving you just few ideas you can try to play with.

Dress!

Uf! This can be done 1001 way, trust me!

It was challenging to make it in one piece without buttons, zippers…and easy enough for girls that will play with the doll be able to take it off and change (if you will make a several 😉 ).

Dress is not done in continuous rounds. So after each row, ch1 or ch2, depending if you are starting with single crochet od double one. Finishing the row, slip stitch the last stitch to the first chain you started.

I have started my dress with chain of 36 stitches. Before closing the chain into circle, check if it fits to your doll (so you can add or decrease stitch or two).

Here we go:

Dress

Use color of your choice for the base dress color

Upper part

Ch 36, sl.st. to close the chain into a ring

R1 sc36

R2 sc36

R3 dc36

R4 dc36

R5 dc36

R6 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Using long chain (you made out of thread, yarn) in color of your choice, or string, or bow, wave in between the R5-R6 starting in front of the dress, going allthe way around and finishing in front right before you started. This we will use to close the dress after it is put on the doll, to give her nice fitting effect 😉

Turn the dress upside down, to where we have started with the chain row. We are making the skirt now. Slip stitch to any stitch and start with our first row making the bottom of the dress.

I used yellow yarn here (that was later decorated with green) to make belt effect on this dress. You can change the color or just continue with the same one you have worked the top with.

Skirt:

R1 sc36 blo

R2 sc36 blo

Change color (here I switched from yellow to pink again)

R3 2dc in one st FLO all the way around

R4 dc in each st

R5 2dc in each st

R6 dc in each st

R7 2dc in each st

Change color (for this row I used turquoise color)

R8 sc in each st

Change color (for the final row I used yellow)

R9 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Under skirt

With thinner white yarn

Slip stitch at one of the back loops on R3 of the dress’s bottom.

R1 sc all the way around

R2 2dc in each st

R3 dc each st

R4 2dc in each st

R5 dc each st

R6 2dc in each st

Change color (I used green here)

R7 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st* repeat till the end of this row.

Shoulder sleeves

Put the dress on the doll. Tighten the upper part with the bow or string you waved in, and mark best place where the strings for the shoulder sleeves would go best. This is how I did it.

Mark all four points. Two in front and two on the back, take the dress off the doll and start making the shoulder strings in the same color as the dress was made.

R1 Sl.st. at the front of the dress. Ch10, sl.st at the back (of the same shoulder side)

Change color (first one I did was pink, and now was switching to turquoise)

R2 sc10 st

Change color (mine is yellow here)

R3 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat till end

Tie off sew and hide ends nicely

In addition there is bow to make on the belt, and if you like you can add one row of zig-zag motif.

Choose what will you use for the belt. Starting at front, wave in the string or bow or whatever you have chosen for this.

In one of the rows where you have front loops visible slip stitch the yarn in color of your choice and make this motif:

*Ch2, skip one stitch, sl.st* all the way around.

Tie off, hide the ends.

oopsieb&w

Bow

Ch18

R1 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 4sl.st. 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch2, turn

R2-4 repeat the pattern from R1

When finished with R4, sc all the way around the bow.

Tie off, hide the end.

Bow middle

Ch8 (one color)

R1 sc7 (second color)

R2 *ch2, skip one, sl.st1* repeat for all the stitches (third color)

Tie or sew this piece at the middle of the bow, and sew the bow nicely on top of the head.

Finishing:

Hair:

Place the hair “cap” on, Position it the way you like it the best. Safety pin it and sew it all around.

Now place the ringlets the way you want them to be. Safety pin them and sew them so they stay at place where you wanted them to be.

If you are using bangs with slip stitched chains, the way I made my Oopsie doll, place it on the very top of the head, safety pin each bang and sew one by one, little by little on the front of the head.

At the end sew on the bow, One in the middle, on top of the head, or two at sides, depending how you will make your ringlets to be.

Eyes:

Use little bit of black felt. Place the buttons you will use of eyes on the felt, draw the outline and cut out two black felt pieces you will put under the buttons.

We will glue them first. Buttons on the felt and felt on the head, so once sewed on will stay nice and firm.

For eye lashes cut black felt, making kind of V shape pattern (as for two lashes to stick on the eye sides).

Safety pin the eyes and using black thread sew them on the head.

With embroidery needle and black thread, sew the smiling mouth.

Using pink felt, cut two circles of about 1cm big and glue them on the face. I used regular all purpose crystal glue.

If you don’t have the felt for eyes or cheeks. Embroider the eyelashes on each side of the eye. Use little bit of powder blush for the cheeks.

Was a little work to do for this doll but at the end it’s al worth it. Hope you enjoyed making Oopsie and most of all hope your kids will enjoy playing with one! 😀

Looking forward to hear all you comments, suggestions, replies. Let me know how it goes! Send me some photos of finished doll! Looking forward hearing from you and seeing the photos.

Wish you all the best of luck and lots of fun making these dolls.

If you will come up with some special and new ideas, let me know so we will publish them on the blog!

lalaO

‘till next time wishing you lots of fun and joy!

p.s.

On the left side of the home page I have added the box with several patterns in .pdf for your easier download and work.

Posted on June 6, 2013June 10, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 88 Comments

Sleeping buddies, lavender stuffed doll

This week was inspired by my first doll I ever got (had). Was a plush, red, patch doll think is called in English, with rubber face. Was one of those you take for sleeping. Soft and cuddly. This week remembered that doll again, and said, why not making one. In my yarn stash had this ball of very old white cotton yarn. Even the way it looked you could say was very old. That was inspiring as well. “Vintage” looking doll, old yarn to go with..could not be better.

Added few details at the end and came up with this little one. Rice stuffed dolls - 11

Little sleeping buddy doll in cow pijama. Topic of this post is sleeping buddies stuffed with rice/lavender. This doll is stuffed with rice and fiber fill stuffing. As I was stuffing the doll, was stuffing her in layers, mixing rice and fiber fill together. Only the head is stuffed with fiber stuffing all the way (but because had this head made some time ago).

The first doll was done! Now I had to try out the pattern and make new doll. Used tiny bits of different colors, to match the yarn weight and gauge. Basically left over yarns I found, but were the same producer. In second try I got the pattern done completely and finished doll looking like this: Rice stuffed dolls - 10

Difference at this one is the filling. This doll is mainly stuffed with rice. Fiberfill is added on top of each part for easier closing and sewing the parts later. I must say that this dolls fills great when held in hands, and I like her the most. It is heavy, when you squeeze her you can feel the rice grains inside and is fun to touch and play with. Head I stuffed with fiberfill at this one as well. To be honest, wasn’t in the mood to experiment with rice. 🙂

While working on the second doll, this idea of stuffing the doll with lavender crossed my mind. While having breaks, took a trip to wardrobe in search of the lavender bags hiding there. Picked up fw, took the lavender out and now had to make one more doll to try this out! Lavender stuffed doll!

Rice stuffed dolls - 09

That is why the third doll is all flowery looking 😀 She is lavender one!

Stuffing it just with lavender doesn’t work. I was using last years lavender, and was pretty dry and light weight. You can’t really “stuff” the doll. Furthermore, lavender breaks and makes dust. To avoid this breaking of lavender and dusting, again used the layers stuffing method. Little bit of stuffing, little bit of lavender and at the end you get this beautifully nice smelling soft doll, what makes ideal sleeping buddy.

Here are all three of the dolls made together 🙂

Rice stuffed dolls - 07

Think we can start with the pattern. I am giving you the basic pattern, no details on the flowers or cow pijames.

Even the colors I didn’t mention in the pattern, so you can work based on own wishes or yarn availabilities. Important is to keep the yarn weight same or very similar.

Here is the Rice/Lavender stuffed Doll pattern:

Abbreviations (US terms):

Sc: Single crochet

St: Stitch

Inv.dc: Invisible decrease

Ch: chain

Materials used:

5ply or sports weight yarn in different colors

2mm crochet hook

black embroidery thread

embroidery needle

4mm round beads for eyes (if you are making the doll for babies, use safety eyes or sew the eyes on the face. do not use beads!)

Head

R1: Sc6 n magic ring (6)

R2: 2sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24)

R5: *2c in one st, sc3* x6 (30)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36)

R7-R10: sc36

R11: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42)

R12: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48)

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54)

R14-R16: sc54

R17: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x6 (48)

R18: sc48

R19: *inv.dec1, sc4* x8 (40)

R20: *inv.dec.1, sc2* x10 (30)

R21: *inv.dec.1, sc1* x10 (20)

R22: inv.dec. x 8, sc4 (12)

Tie off. Stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

Ch12

R1: starting from the secong ch from hook, sc10, 3sc in one st (turn around), sc9, 2sc in one st.

R2: 2sc in ne st, sc9, *2sc in one st* x3, sc9, *2sc in one st* x2 (30)

R3: sc1, 2sc in one st, sc10, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc10, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st. (36)

R4: sc2, 2sc in one st, sc11, *2sc in one st, sc2* x2, 2sc in one st, sc 11, 2sc in one st, sc2, 2sc in one st. (42)

R5-R14: sc42

R15: sc2, inv.dec.1, sc11, *inv.dec.1, sc2* x2, inv.dec1, sc11, inv.dec.1, sc2, inv.dec.1 (36)

R16: sc36

R17: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc10, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc10, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (30)

R18: sc30

R19: inv.dec.1, sc9, inv.dec. x3, sc9, inv.dec. x2 (24)

R20: sc24

R21: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc4, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc4, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (18)

R22-R23: sc18

R24: inv.dec.1, sc3, inv.dec. x3, sc3, inv.dec. x2 (12)

R25: sc12

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body with the head. Stuff the body well.

Legs (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3: sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st (24)

R4- R6: sc24

R7: *inv.dec.1, sc10* x2 (22)

R8-R9: sc22

R10: *inv.dec.1, sc9* (20)

R11-R12: sc20

R13: *inv.dec.1, sc8* x2(18)

R14-R15: sc18

Stuff the leg. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 8 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the leg to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Arms (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3-R5: sc18

R6: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x2(16)

R7-R8: sc16

R9: *inv.dec.1, sc6* x2(14)

R10-R11: sc14

R12: *inv.dec1, sc5* x2(12)

R13-R14): sc12

Stuff the arm. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 5 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the arm to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Hood

Ch51

R1-R18: sc50

Fold piece in the half, and stitch across side, through both stitches, making 25 st along the way.

Cut the thread and tie off at the end.

Ch60, and with needle pass and pull trough stitches on the bottom of hood (as shown on the photo).

Cut off the access yarn, hide the ends, flip the hood inside out and is ready to be placed on dolls head.

I like to fold out one row in the front of the hood. Find it nice looking on dolls head.

Here is how your crocheted piece for hood will look like: Rice stuffed dolls - 01

Now fold it in two like this and stitch 25sc through both sides (two stitches at same time): Rice stuffed dolls - 02 Now ch60, yarn over embroidery needle and sew through the stitches at the bottom of the hood, pulling the chain you crocheted thorugh those stitches:

Rice stuffed dolls - 04

At the end the hood will look like this: Rice stuffed dolls - 05 Rice stuffed dolls - 06

Assembling the parts together:

Sew he body and the head together.

Decide where the front/back will be so can start positioning and sewing the legs. Sew legs between the 4th and 5th row counting from the bottom (first, starting row). Leave one stitch between each leg.

Place arms on the sides of the body. Sew them nicely through 5 stitches we have made while finishing the arms.

Designing the face:

Place the eyes, between between rows, 11-12. Leave 5 stitches between them

Embroider the smiling mouth. Without mouth doll looks great as well.

For any details on the face, or on the body, free your mind and play! 😀

At the end place the hood on doll’s head and your sleeping buddy is done!

Hope you enjoyed reading this and will enjoy making the doll! Make as many as you wish for your family and friends. Let me know what you did for stuffing, how the work went and what was your experience with the pattern.

If you will encounter any mistakes done, let me know, and will correct them immediately.

Thank you all for your time spent reading my post! Rice stuffed dolls - 08

P.S.

I have forgotten to mention few details.

Finished size of the doll is 16 (hight) x 8 (width) cm / 6 x 3,5 inches (if done with sport weight yarn and 2mm hook, as I did)

The work is done in continuous round (at least it is how I did it, you do it the way you like and prefer).

After each row is finished, continue without slip stitching or chain one. Mark the beginning of each row for easier counting and pattern following.

Posted on June 3, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 9 Comments

Bee Girl

Since I started this blog, just few months ago, encountered so many great bloggers that I would like to thank for all their effort and work done blogging. For their kindness to share with us their thoughts on some ordinary and non so ordinary issues, to share their knowledge trying to teach us new things, or just for being here so kind and so nice as they are and make this blogging space be a nice, warm and happy place for all of us that follow them.

One among these great bloggers I encountered is Tales Of Twisted Fibers one. Name suits her perfectly! If you haven’t been there yet, I warmly recommend you to go and check her out. Check and see why “twisted” and why we love her so much.

About two weeks ago she came up with this Bee girl. Ami doll that I really liked. Was thrilled when she posted the pattern for that doll as well. Could not resist giving her a try and to make one Bee doll just for me 😉

Here is the link of her Bee Girl! Check her out before you proceed!

Free Bee Girl Amigurumi Pattern

Making the doll was so much fun. Pattern is easy to follow. Outcome, the finished doll looks great! I love it and am sure all of you will!

So hurry, hurry and make one Bee Girl as well! 😀

Here is my Bee Girl made out of pattern designed and published by Tales Of Twisted Fibers. Thank you ToTF for this wonderful pattern and your kindness and generosity to share it with us!

Posted on May 24, 2013June 30, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 291 Comments

BB Dolls

BBDolls - 3 This week wanted to talk about amigurumi doll’s hair making. If you ask me, it is the hardest part of finishing the doll and making her look the way we imagine. At least it is for me.

Tried so many different versions of hairs to be done on the doll, and hardly ever was satisfied with the final outcome. Those tapestry way, with wool and pulling out hair by hair; works fine I guess. Eats a lot of wool, but what you can do with it is either freaking out looking doll or to make it look “decent” is pony-tail(s) or braids.

Then there is a wig making. Sorry to say, but for that am complete idiot. Tried it several times, but each and every doll looked so sad with this helmet looking wig on.

Crocheting “discs” as I call them (small round pieces) and placing one or two on top of the head, as you can see at some of my doll photos in the gallery, worked fine. Liked the results. Making tassels to go with them or braids, and placing them on sides or top of the head….. yes, many possibilities and are easy to make, and at the end doll looks nice. Cute and “dolly”.

I wanted more out of hair! That kept me busy thinking and trying.

I am sure I didn’t invent anything new; specially to those that are in amigurumi world for quite some time, but it is new to me.

For today I made one new pattern that I called BB Dolls. Made few different hair styles so you can see the possibilities that can be done. Encourage all of you to give it a try and play with it for a while. Specially to ones that love dolls as much as I do. Hair making this way is fun! Really is! 😉

The pattern for entire doll I tried to make simplest possible. For some problem might be making legs and body in one peace, but if so, just make two legs and body separated, counting the stitches used in the pattern.

For any questions you might have, I am here, and will be glad to help you.

So here we go with the BB Doll pattern

Abbreviations:

Sc: Single crochet

ch: Chain

St: Stitch

inv.dec: invisible decrease

Materials you will need:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

4,5 mm round, black, wooden beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

needle for sewing up the body parts together

embroidery thread if you will want to sew on the eyelashes to the doll’s eyes

BBDolls - 6 HEAD

CH 6

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 4. 3 2sc in last st. ~~Turn~~ Continue your work stitching around the other side, Sc 4, 2sc in last st. (12 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R3: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

R4: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R5: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R6-10: Sc 36

If you are using safety eyes, place them between row 10 and 11, leaving 6 stitches between them.

R11: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 12 times (48 sts)

R12: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (54 sts)

R13-R17: Sc 54

R18: *Sc 7, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (48 sts)

R19: *Sc 6, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (42 sts)

R20: *Sc 5, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R21: *Sc 4, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R22: *Sc 3, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R23: *Sc 2, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R24: *Sc 1, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (12 sts)

Fasten off and stuff head firmly. Stuff little by little and form so you shape the head nicely.

HAIR

R1: stitch 4sc in magic ring ch1 turn around

(Do not close the ring, chain one and continue stitching backwards, as you would with the flat peace. We will be crocheting the rows here. Every row finish with the chain1, turn around, and continue stitching in the second stitch from the hook.)

R2: 2sc in each st (8 sts) ch1 turn around

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times. (12sts) ch1 turn around

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (24 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (28 sts)

R8-13: Sc 28

R14: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 8 times (36 sts)

R15: Sc 36

Ch1 and begin single crochet stitching to the side, toward the top of the head, where magic ring and first row is started.

Reaching the magic ring we will start making bangs.

Slip stitch 1 in the magic ring, chain 10, and return back slip stitching 9 at each stitch on the chain.

Slip stitch again to the magic ring, ch 10, return back slip stitching to 9 stitches on the chain, slip stitch to the magic ring, and repeat 3 more times, or until you create desired number of the bangs. (in my case there are 5).

Finishing last peace of hair, single crochet to the working side of the hair, and continue sc into each last row stitch (14 sts).

Reaching the end, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Here are few samples of what you can do. Some you could see at presentations photo on the start of this post. Would have been to much if I tried to write down each and every pattern for different hair styles I’ve done; but as I said, if you will need any help, feel free to contact me and ask. Will be glad to help you.

Hair we are making in this pattern is the one shown on the first photo published here; look at the last doll in the line. One with light brown hair (yellow and blue dress).

BBDolls - 7

BBDolls - 2 BBDolls - 1

LEGS & BODY

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Leg2:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

R18-25: 18 sc

R26: *Inv.dec.1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27-29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body as firm as you can.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

ARMS X2

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2-6: 6 sc

Change color

R7-R9: 6sc

Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.

DRESS

R1: 18 Sc in magic ring (18) (don’t close the ring completely)

R2-R3: 18 sc

R4: *2sc in one st, sc next 2* x6 (24)

R5-R6: 24 sc

R7: *2sc in one st, sc next 3sts* x6 (30)

R8-R9: 30 sc

R10: *2sc in one st, sc next 4 sts* x6 (36)

R11: 36 sc

Change color

R12: *ch3, sc in next st* repeat all around

Tie off and hide ends.

Put the dress over the body and sew the body on the head.

Sew on the hair, and finally place and sew the arms (I find it best if you leave 6 stitches looking in front of the dress, between each arm). I also suggest to sew the arms on the dress only. Not only it is easier, but gives you space to sew and hide ends nicely.

And you own BB Doll is done.

I hope you have enjoyed making it, and the hair you have learned will open up a whole new possibilities. Experiment and try different styles. Share what you have learned and teach us something new as well.

Looking forward to see and hear you experiences in making BB Doll. Thank you for staying with me and reading this post. Thank you for following and all kind and sweet comments you always leave behind. Thank you 🙂

BBDolls - 6

Posted on May 16, 2013May 17, 2013 by amigurumibb by Che'Che' — 27 Comments

Karla’s Hats

Since published Little Karla Girl pattern, many times have been asked about different hat patterns for the little Karla. Blame it on me for not posting more back then, but when I crochet, I crochet without any pattern and usually don’t write what I am dong. So I end up repeating same doll and same pattern several times before it “hits” me that I could write it down for some future use. 🙂

Since I started with this blog, I do try to write down all I do. Even first time doing it. Now need time writing it all nice and readable 😀 Let us get back to what we have started here; hats for little Karla doll. You all met Karla. Since last time you saw her, her hair grew a little, but still not enough to take the hat off 😀 Will show you, her recent photos, but please, if you will must laugh, turn your head around and laugh quietly. We really did our best to comb and make nice hair style for photo shooting today.

So here comes Karla:

Karla Hats - 04 🙂 we said no laughing loud!!!!

Today, tried to make up few hats together with patterns, so all of you that asked for something different to put on Karla’s head, now have few options to choose from.

Here are hats I have made today.

These are really basic models and very, very simple to make. You can use them to make so many different styles. Once you’ll start and let your imagination lead you, you will see how it becomes never-ending story (when it comes to creating something new 🙂 So do not hesitate, take your little Karla, some yarn and needle and start creating new hats for this little one! Let’s continue with the hat patterns!

Starting with little mint green hat.

Karla Hats - 06

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: *slip stitch, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slip stitch* repeat all the way around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lilac (purple) hat

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: 2Hdc in each st around, front loop only (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pastel Yellow Hat

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16: 2hdc in each st around (84)

Round 17: Hdc in each st around (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Elf green Hat

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2-3: sc in each st around (6)

Round 4: *2 sc, sc in next st* repeat 3 times (9)

Round 5-6: sc in each st around (9)

Round 7: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (12)

Round 8-9: sc in each st around (12)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 1 st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 11-12: sc in each st around (18)

Round 13: *2 sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 14-15: sc in each st around (24)

Round 16: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 17.18: Sc in each st around (30)

Round 19: *2sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 20: sc in each st around (36)

Round 21: * 2sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 22: Sc in each sc around (42)

Round 23: *2sc, sc in next6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 24: sc in each st around (48)

Round 25: *2sc, sc in next 7st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 26: *2sc, sc in next8 sc*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 27-28: sc in each st around (60)

Round 29: *inv.dec., sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 30: *inv.dec., sc in next 7 st, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 31: *in.dec., sc in next 6 st, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 32: reverse single crochet around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

For those that don’t know how to make reverse single crochet stitch, here is little tutorial. If I could learn from this, so will you!http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-reverse-single-crochet-stitch.html

And final one is Teddy Bear hatRound 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: Hdc in each sc around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Nose

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-5: sc in each st around (18)

fasten of and leave long end for sewing the nose to the hat.

Ears

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-6: sc each st around (18)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing ears to the hat.

Sew nose and ears to the hat. Glue some black cloth pieces on the top of the nose and in place of eyes (or sew them on with black thread).

This way you can make polar bear, duck, panda, koala, frog….so many different animal hats.

The tiny flower used on the hats you can make as follows:

Round 1: sc5 in magic circle

switch color if you wish to make two color flower

Round 2: *slip stitch to next st, ch2, hdc in same st, ch2* repeat 5 times

fasten off, leave long end for sewing the flower to the head.

If you have any idea of new hat pattern you would like to see, or have a pattern you would like to share with us, let me know! Send me e-mail, or post a comment!

Till next time… happy hats making 😉

Tag: crocheted dolls

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