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It’s Beer Time!!!! Happy OctoberFest!

This year I decided to celebrate the October Fest and drink a mug of beer accompanied with two of my little dolls. Last two months have been rather stressful and fun these two little ones brought in just few days is priceless!

I am still smiling and here is why:

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Meet Helga and Hans! They are both German, come form Munich and are OctoberFest fans!

Both dolls are made using FairyDoll’s pattern. Slight changes have been made on arms length, hair. Hans has more changes than Helga, because of the trousers but both of the patterns are easy and pretty fast to do. Both are must have for your collection. Both of the patterns are finished and written for you to start working and making your very own Helga and Hans.

Here are some closeups of both dolls:

DSC_0017DSC_0016DSC_0015You have to admit that Hans is very handsome fellow! His mustaches and great looking, very fashionable haircut are absolutely irresistible! 😀

While making this pattern, as I wanted to create real OctoberFest spirit. OctoberFest can’t be OctoberFest without beer and pretzels (but pretzel pattern I forgot, sorry), that is why I tried to make arms moveable a little in order for them to hold the mugs.

Dolls are small (15 cm high), this joining the arms is very simple and works fine on such small dolls. I have prepared little photo tutorial for you as well. In order to see and have better view, ope the photo and zoom in (for better text reading). Use this photo together with the pattern for better understanding how to add arms to your dolls.

Attaching arms on small dollsPattern for the dolls you can find here: Helga and Hans

I hope I haven’t made too many mistakes while writing and editing the pattern, but if such occur, please feel free to write and ask for help.

DSC_0012Hope you have enjoyed seeing these two little ones! Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and blessed weekend ahead!

Cheers from

Helga, Hans and Vanja

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Little update…

…on what I have been up to for the past month. It sure did pass fast and I haven’t posted any news during pretty long period of time.

Due to some minor health problems I had to take some time off from crocheting and staying away from PC. That resulted with brand new ideas I started to wort at so all this ended great and we will have many new things to work at pretty soon.

Before I show you and talk to you about my newest project, I would like to show you photos of few dolls I made for friends.

Little Strawberry Shortcake and Woody  you can see on the photo below are dolls I made for local friend. None of these patterns was mine. Had to make dolls in few days and didn’t have time to come up with pattern of my own. Instead, I used patterns from my pattern library. I have a huge collection of all different patterns from many famous and non famous designers. I think that each one of us, who is in this craft, has this “mania” of collecting patterns and making to do lists for our future projects. At least I do! I can tell you that this list, of what I would like to do and try, is huge. Unless I end up with something urgent to make (like these two little dolls) most of the time those patterns just sit and wait some better times (while I keep loading new ones on top of them).

Let me show you these two before I continue:

Strawberry & Woody

Both ended up cute and patterns I worked on were nice and easy as well.

For Strawberry Shortcake pattern I used Yolita Amigurumis pattern. Clicking on link provided will lead you to Yolita’s blog. From there you can go to her Facebook page. Feel free to contact her if you will have hard times finding Strawberry Shortcake pattern. She will be glad to help you.

Original pattern name is Rosita Fresita!

Woody I made following the pattern made by Siemprejosefina. This one is not free. You can find it on Etsy.

The thing I changed on both are the eyes. I painted eyes on both of these dolls. I also made hair on Strawberry Shortcake little bit different than from original pattern (but only because had different yarn, this one was lighter weight so had to improvise a little). 

Last month I got contacted by wonderful and so kind doll maker from France, her name is Arlette. She sent me mail asking for my BB dolls measurements. She creates dolls from textile and wanted to make BB couple but in same proportions as my original dolls. Instead of sending her measurements I made her two dolls (boy and girl) and send them so she could get to see them in real and make dolls based on visual experience, rather than working with plain numbers.

I really enjoyed working at those two dolls for her. I called them BB bros and they both ended up very happy and sweet. Arlette was pleased as well what made me even happier. To thank me she send me two of BB dolls but in textile. Oh my God, was I surprised and happy when I got the package!!!

I am not good in sewing and sewed dolls were always special treat and treasure for me. Love them even more than crocheted ones and receiving BB dolls in textile for me felt as Christmas! I have no words to express my gratitude and thankfulness to Arlette for taking her time to make these little ones for me. They are absolutely beautiful! Their names are> The Little Green Eyes Princess and The little Captain Red. Arlette made me this beautiful card (which I forgot to take photo and prepare for this post…) where she drew these two little dolls and wrote their name. She also sent me Sugar’n Cream yarns! I am bragging, I know…but it was such a beautiful gesture she made, and I still feel very thankful to her. Anyways, here is the photo of dolls I made for her and dolls she made for me.

bb bross

 

By now I talked about and showed you the projects I finished. Now can tell you more of what I started to work on and what is going to show and share with you soon.

For a long time I wanted to to moveable joints and head crocheted doll. Sometimes I felt as the idea on how to make one was haunting me through the nights. Had many ideas by now, but never really started or tried to make one. The period while I had to stay away from hook and PC, I took time to give it deeper thinking on how I would make doll moveable.

There are many different ways. The best I saw so far was one Beth Webber came up with. I haven’t tried to follow the pattern on her moveable joints (and maybe I should have-would make my work much easier), but the whole idea of hers is the best I saw so far. You can find all details on her moveable joints and head dolls here:  http://byhookbyhand.blogspot.com/

it is link to her blog but on the left side bar of her blog you will find links to many different patterns, among which there are moveable joints, head…

Beth’s place is the best for all of you doll lovers. Not that you will find huge pattern sellection, but Beth’s work and enthusiasm will inspire you and your future work as well. I just love to visit her place there and spend some time. For me it feels as gaining energy from her blog, posts, patterns and work. She is great! We love you Beth! 🙂

So…my idea on making moveable joints!

The whole idea is making arms and legs first. Start them from bottom, work to top, and keep opened. Attach them to the body with buttons from the inner side of shoulders, hips and inside the  body.

Arms and legs to make from two pieces, connected them in elbows and knees with tiny crocheted additions on sides of the legs (sewed through lower leg or arm part) and make them moveable front-back. For the head I have different idea. Will try to crochet head in head. Small ball looking part that will be worked in addition to the body, will place inside the head (will crochet the head around the neck and around this little ball piece). Will talk about head and how this idea will work as soon as I start working on it. By now I have tried to make one arm to se how the elbow joint wil work and it is really working great.

That kept me going and continue with making legs (what I will show you in a little while). Both legs turned out great. Look at the photo. Legs look really good.

Moveable doll Everything went as I planned. I crocheted both legs, left them opened on the top. Started the body and connected the hips to it with the buttons (as planned). The body started to work as an oval, and really was getting nice shape (don’t worry,made records of all I did so we will have the pattern 🙂 )

The hips or this attatchemt where I sewed the hips to the body felt little wobbly, and at first I thought it was becasue there was no stuffing, so I hurried to finish at least the half or two thirds of the body to be able to stuff and check if the wobbling will persist, and to my sadness it did. Stuffing didn’t help. Both legs are very moveable in hips and make doll look like a string one. Not good at all! Idea with the buttons will have to be dropped and changed with something else.

To keep the same shape of the legs and body I think will just try to cut the threads I used to sew the buttons and attach legs to the body, and instead of button attachment will use old method, sewing it from the inner thy sides, through the body and attaching both legs same time. This should work and keep legs stay closer to the body and move nicely and not wobble around like these.

So keep fingers crossed! I am going back to work and hope to get this moveable doll done by next week. Will keep you informed how it goes.

If you have any ideas that might help, please, feel free to drop a line here or on my mail. I am always happy to hear from you. 

Thank you for staying with me this time. Was a lot of bragging but sometimes girl needs to do that too 😉

 

Wishing you all happy end of this week and wonderful blessed weekend!

Love and hugs,

Vanja

 

 

 

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Brave, Princess Merida

Hello dear friends,

This week presenting beautiful princess Merida.

Jo Merriman made this adorable doll based on my FairyDoll pattern, and you will all agree, she made wonderful job designing Merida. Thank you Jo for this great idea and pattern you share with us!

Merida by Jo Merriman

Materials you will need to make this doll can be any of your choice yarn with matching hook.

Yarn in flash color – peach or pinkish one will work great for princess Merida

For dress use some petrol green color, darker green or blue, all will work nice.

Bow and quiver make in brown (some leftover yarns will work well) – same color you can use to make Merida’s shoes.

Jo added tiny bits of beige on top of the dress and sleeves.

And orange to make Merida’s beautiful hair.

Darning needle for sewing, stuffing of your choice

2 black beads 4-5 mm round ones for the eyes.

 

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

Hdc – half double crochet

Dec – decreasing stitch

Inc – increasing stitch

 

Head

(flesh color yarn)

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

 

Legs & body

(You will need flash color yarn, brown-for shoes, and start with brown for shoes, green or similar for dress)

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body is the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

Start with brown

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

Change color to flash

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

 

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

 

Work with white or color you will use for dress.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: stitch around both legs making 18 stitches count. (18)

R18-R22

R23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 Either change to a separate color as in photos or change to flesh color. Sc6, insert hook in r below (1st pic) yarn over and pull long loop, insert into same sc and create a second long loop into same sc(2nd pic), sc 5. 13sc.

R28. Change to flesh colour if not done in r27,sc 6 invisible dec 1(dec using front loops only) sc5. 12sc

R29 12 sc.

Pic 3 is the completed doll body changing colour at r27 and again at R28..,,

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Photos below are showing what is done R26-R29

color change for top of dress part1

 This pic is r27, placing hook into r25 whereas the other is just r below. This one I didn’t dec in R28 and just sc 13 in the last 2 rounds, as you can see I didn’t think it made a difference,

color change top of dress part2

color change top of dress part3

dress finished

Arms

Start with flash color

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

Change color to one used for dress

 

R5-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Sew the arms on sides of the body, where neck area,

Jo’s tip: use a running stitch of the tan colour at where the hand and sleeve start and about half way up at about elbow

 

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the

body, starting at R23

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R23, ch1

R1 inc18 (36 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R24 sc 42

R43 sc in front loops only

Tie off hide end.

 

Bow

In brown color yarn

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc4

R12 inc1, sc3 (5 sts)

R13-R16 sc5

R17 inc1, sc4 (6 sts)

R18-R21 sc6

R22 dec1, sc4 (5 sts)

R23-R26 sc5

R27 dec1, sc3 (4 sts)

 

R28-R37 sc4

Tie off leaving long end for closing the last round nicely.

Cut the wire little bit shorter than the bow is. Secure the ends with little bit of tape or glued yarn over wire ends.

Place the wire inside the bow. Fold the piece so it forms the bow shape.

 

With silver or white or beige color thread make bow string.

 

Knot it on one side, wrap few times, stretch over the bow from one end to opposite, tie knot, wrap few times.

To secure ends you can either glue them or sew them inside the bow.

 

Bow made with pipe cleaner:

the bow is a 12inch pipe cleaner folded in half and shaped as a bow. using brown yarn tie a knot near bend, wrap yarn around tight to the end and then back down over knot, next bit a little tricky, sc a row down length of bow to the next bend, wrap yarn around to the end, tie a knot and wrap over knot, I put a dab of glue at both ends has yarn tends to fall off when wrapping, this took a few attempts to correct as it can be a little tricky. the bow string I used some very fine silver thread, tie and trimmed a knot at each end wrapping yarn a few times around the knot for picture effect.

 

Quiver and belt

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

R5 inc1, sc5 (7 sts)

R6-R10 sc7

Ch20 (making belt), wrap the belt around Merida’s waist and sc to first chain stitch made. Tie off , hide ends.

Arrows: place some shaped pins inside the quiver

You can also make arrows with some tiny feathers.

 

Hair:

For the hair you will need orange yarn, o

ne size bigger crochet hook (than the one used to crochet head and doll)

Piece of cardboard 6 x 9 inc (15,5 x 23 cm),

A piece of paper and scotchtape

 

Hair cap (or base we’ll use to attach hair)

Work with hook size bigger than used when making head. This will make the cap fit the head nicely.

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the cap on the head.

 

Making crocheted swatch. It is worked in rows. Ch1 and turn after each row.

Ch41

R1 sc40

R2-R17 sc40

Don’t tie off,

Dampen the swatch made, put it on a towel and leave to air dry naturally over night.

 

When dried:

Unravel the dry swatch wrapping it around the paper and card together lengthways, when finished push one end of the loops together till approx 2-3 inches and place tape over yarn to attach to paper, overlap tape onto paper, remove the cardboard, do not cut loops at the loose side! then I hand stitched a row of small

backstitch across the tape making sure to catch all the yarn. I made a couple of rows over just to make sure the stitching was firm. I attached cap to dolls head then the hair, pin in place from the front then to the back, the row of back stitch acts as a parting guide in the hair, so for mine I placed it over left eye at front going towards middle of head at the back. I then used same yarn as hair and made small back stitches over thread attaching hair to cap. Then cut a few loops at a time, depending on were you attached the hair will depend on if you cut the hair in the middle of the loops or to the side like mine, I left mine loose but the hair could be trimmed once fitted.

 

 

Ears

R1 sc5 into a ring but don’t close ring,

R2 ch4 sl st first stitch made, tighten the ring, 1 sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st.

Fasten off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Sew all parts together and your princess Merdia is done!

Here is mine!  I can’t even express how much I enjoyed making her!

Merida

Hope this post and our Facebook friends as well as all of you who will come to see this post and leave the message, will encourage Jo to finish what she started with creating other Disney princesses, we can share and make.

Hip, hip hooraaay for Jo!

 

 

Thank you all for stopping by and taking time reading this post. Hope you like it. Looking forward to hear from you and see you Meridas soon!

 

Vanja

 

p.s.

added .pdf of this pattern under Free Patterns page for your easier download and use.

 

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Mermaid dolls

Hello dear friends. Finally managed to finish the little ones. Dolls were easy, but I promised to make tutorial on easy way to needle sculpt the face and added one more about crocheted doll’s hair that I hope many will enjoy as well.

BB Mermaids

Since BB dolls were published and the pattern released I have have been asked many times how were different hair styles done. That is why I

made this very simple pattern for dolls hair, where I have tried to explain what you have to look and pay attention to when adding crocheting hair on any doll’s head. That is basics and I hope will help many of you that weren’t so sure about how to start and how to make crocheted dolls hair.

Understanding this basic pattern and making at least two of these mermaid hairs, I am sure you will become familiar and free with trying out some of your own creative hair styles and maybe even free making your own little dolls and patterns.

The pattern on crocheted hair basics you can find under Help pages and tutorials.

There you will also find tutorial I have made as addition to these little mermaids that will show you, step by step on how to easy needle sculpt dolls head to make her smiling.

Today will share simple pattern on how to make your little mermaids. These are very special mermaids! When they are outside the water they look as any ordinary girl, but the second they enter the water they turn into beautiful mermaids enjoying the depths of the deepest seas, swimming with whales and dolphins. Decorating hair with starfish and pearls.

BB Mermaids

 Materials needed:

2 mm crochet hook

DK 100% cotton in flash color of your choice, color of your chice for the hair, swimming suit and mermaid fin/body

4 mm round black beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

darning needle

glue (optional) for extra reinforcing the hair and top of the swimming suit.

Abbreviations (US terminology used):

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Bpsc – back post single crochet

Ch – chain

R – round or row

 

Finished doll size:

Around 19 cm / 8 inches

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54sts)

R14-R17 sc 54

R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48

R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Add some more stuffing if needed, tie off .

 

Hair patterns of three mermaids

 

Goldie locks

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 *ch13, starting from 4th ch stitch from hook, inc10 with dc sts, skip 3 stitches on the fundamental row (R12), sl st in 4th st* repeat around (before the last ch13 you will have only 3 stitches left, skip 2sts and sl st in this 3rd, repeat chain 13 and 10 inc dc over chain made to finish this row.

Continue stitching single crochet on the side of the hair piece (working towards the top – where magic ring is)

Sc in magic ring, ch23, starting from 4th chain stitch, increase 20 chain stitches with dc; *sc in magic ring, ch10, sl st9 over the chain made* x2

Continue sc on the other side of the hair piece (from magic ring towards the end of the side made), tie off leave long end for sewing the hair on the head, or hide ends if you decide to glue the hair on the head.

 

Pink curls

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch3, dc2 in each stitch across

R13 *ch3, turn, sl st to next st* across

When reaching end, continue in this manner ch3, slst next around side towards magic ring,

In magic ring sc1, ch13, sl st to 4th ch stitch from end, *ch3, sl st to next st*…across (repeat 3 times in order to make 3 fringes)

Note: 3 fringes will make pretty mess in front. Yo can make just 2 of them, or you can make them standard way, by slip stitching instead of chaining 3 and sl st. Possibilities are many)

 

After fringes are made, continue with *ch3, sl st next st* across the other side of the hair piece.

When reaching end, tie off and leave long end for sewing (if you will sew the hair on the head) or tie off and hide ands if you are gluing the hair on the head.

 

Green braids

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close tha magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch21, sc20 (over chain made), sc to next st on the base (R12) repeat ch21 x2

Skip one, *hdc4 in the next st, skip 1, sl st next, skip one* repeat until you make 7 shells, then repeat ch21-sc20 for the last 3 sts

Sc on the side, stitching up, towards magic ring, make 3 fringes (or as desired) with ch10, sl st 9, finish with sc over next side (towards bottom of the hair piece) tie off leaving long end for sewing or tie off and hide end if your hair will be glued to the head.

Legs (make2)

With color of your choice (one you’ve chosen for your mermaid)

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

Change yarn color to flash

R4 bpsc18

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Leave long end of your mermaid color (one you used for shoe to sew the flip-flops top or to add top of the shoe)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off. Stuff the leg.

 

Body

With mermaid color yarn.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

R1 Slip stitch to one stitch and stitch around connecting legs with closest two stitches, making total of 18 stitches around

(I always like to slip stitch to the stitch that is closest to next leg, so I can connect legs right at beginning and simply stitch around).

R2 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R3-R4 sc24

Change color to flash

R5 sc24

R6 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R7-R11 sc18

R12 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R13-R14 sc12

Stuff the body nice and firm. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and head together.

 

Swimming suit top

R1 sc6 in magic ring (leave about 15-20 cm yarn before making the ring)

R2 sl st last to first st, ch3, dc2 in next st, dc2 to next, ch3, sl st to next st, ch3, 2dc to next st, 2dc to next st, ch3, sl st to starting sl st.

Tie off leaving long end.

Wrap the yarn around middle three times, pulling on every round, in order to make nice bow looking piece.

Then using both yarn ends make a knot on the back side of the bow. Cut them to desired length but enough to tie around mermaids neck and make a little bow.

You can sew or glue this top on mermaids chest.

BB Mermaids

Fin

Make two little fins from R1-R9

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R4 sc8

R5 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R7 sc18

R8 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R9 dec6 (6 sts)

While making second find, do not tie off, but connect second fin and stitch around both making 12 sts

R10 bring both fins together and stitch around making 12 sts

From the next row, continue stitching using back loops only

R11-R12 sc12

R13 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R14-R15 sc18

R16 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R18 sc24

R19 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R20-R34 sc30

R35 *skip one st, 5hdc in next one, skip one, sl st next* around

Tie off hide end. Your mermaid body with fin is done.

 

You can add some beads or bows or shiny threads over front loops. You can also stitch across in spiral using some nice simple edging pattern. It is to your choice. I left it simple but possibilities are endless, and do not hesitate to experiment and add your own touch to it.

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the head.

 

By now all of your body pieces are done, and your head is needle sculpt. Sew all of them together nicely.

Put the mermaids outfit on your doll and she is ready to play with.

 

BB Mermaids

 

I hope you have enjoyed making your mermaid and that you will make at least two of them.

What I hope more is that your daughters, granddaughters, nieces or little girls next door will enjoy them even more.

 

Vanja

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Bratz inspired doll

I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.

First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then

as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!

At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.

First will show you my Bratz doll.

BratzBB curly hair front

As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.

Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):

http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi

on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html

This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there).  It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.

You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.

Patterns are:

1. Basic Bratz doll body

2. How to create hair from satin ribbon

3. How to connect limbs to the body

Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉

Lolly front

 

This is my Lolly!

lolly sideLolly back

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.

Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.

 

Hugs

 

Vanja

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Zombi me…

Last week I announced doll I was working on,  zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.

In most of European countries,  the February is month of carnivals.

“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)

I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course,  because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉

All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!

Here is zombi me

Zombi Vanja - AmigurumiBBThis doll was made from my second try.

FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.

Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀

Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.

Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.

Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.

Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.

The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.

Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.

This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but  now I know more and will share it with you.

Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.

What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.

Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.

They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.

My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.

Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.

♡ Vanja

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Mooshka dolls

This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.

Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.

Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Mooshka dolls2Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.

To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. Mooshka-orangeMooshka-side viewMooshka-back viewAs you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.Mooshka-blueI have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.

Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).

 

Materials needed:

Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress

The rest of the doll  (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.

Matching hook

Stuffing

Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.

Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.

If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).

Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.

Embroidery needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link  http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

 

Head

I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.

With yarn in flash color of your choice

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R10-R19 sc60

R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)

R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)

R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)

R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)

R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)

R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck

Neck area

R1 sc18

R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R9-R10 Sc60 x2

 

Forming arms

Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)

R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count

R2-R21 Sc15

Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)

R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc1*  x5 (10 sts)

R24 Sc10

R25 Dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.

 

Next arm:

Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm

Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)

 

Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.

I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.

 

Body

Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.

Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.

 

R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)

R2 Sc34

R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)

(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)

R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)

R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)

R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)

R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)

R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)

R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)

Change color for panties

R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)

R11-R16 Sc42

R17 *Dec1, sc5*  x6 (36 sts)

Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing  last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.

First we will sew the body.

Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)

Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).

Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.

 

Legs x2

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4-R5 Sc24

R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)

Change color (shoe is done)

R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)

R8-R32 Sc18

Stuff legs nice and firm

Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.

Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.

Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.

Hair

Color of your choice

Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)

R8-R17 Sc40

R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)

R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)

R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)

R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)

R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)

R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)

R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)

R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)

R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)

Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)

sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc  on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.

Pony tails can be made many ways.

We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.

 

Simple buns (blue haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 sc12

R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the bun well

R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.

 

Longer buns (orange haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the first part

R4 inc6 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12

R8 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff second ball

R9 inc6 (12 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R11-R12 sc18

R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R14 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing

Dress

Ch29

Sc28

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)

Dc42

Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)

Dc56

Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)

Sc32

Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)

Dc48

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)

Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds

Ch2, dc64 x5

Change color

Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around

Eyes and creating dolls face

Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.

To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.

If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.

 

Crocheted eyes:

With black embroidery thread

Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch

Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown

Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)

Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.

For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.

For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.

Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.

Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.

You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.

You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.

Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.

 

Place the lips two rounds below the nose.

Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.

Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).

Mooshka dolls

And that it is! Your Moosha is done! 

Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.

Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!

 

♡ Vanja 

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Silly little Angel!

Hope you all remember little angry Angel I posted photo of few weeks ago. Dear Debi B. asked to try the pattern out. And am glad she has helped me with it. Thank you Debi!

I came out with an Angel pattern after Bonnie B. asked me to create and Angel she could make and donate to cancer ill patients in local hospital, to cheer them up and brighten their day.

That is how silly little attitude Angel came to life.

Here is a photo of two of them. Angels-AmigurumiBB

Wing pattern is not mine. Found it long time ago and used it here. If one knows the original designer and owner of the wing pattern, let me know so can give her deserved credit.

Think I better get on with pattern, as I have one (two) more patterns to share today.

Angel is made in No.10 thread and 1,50 mm crochet hook. FInished size measures 13 cm (5″).

Debi has made her angel in worsted wight yarn and F hook and her angel measures 11″. Here is the photo of her Angel.

Debi B's Angel made out Angel pattern-AmigurumiBBFrom materials you will need to make angle is thread or yarn in flash color of your choice, white yarn or thread, little bit of black embroidery thread for the eyes, stuffing, and fabric starch to block and model wings.

Abbreviations:

st(s) – stitches

Sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double corchet

ch – chain

R – round when worked in continuous rounds or row if work requires turns and straight line following.

AmigurumiBB-Angels

Head

Flash color of your choice

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R11 sc42

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

Begin stuffing

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Add more stuffing

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off.

 

Body and legs are worked together

Legs (make 2)

Start with white

Ch7

R1 sc5, 3sc in last st, work around chain, sc4, 2sc in last st (14 sts)

R2 inc1, sc4, inc3, sc4, inc2 (20 sts)

R3-R4 sc20

R5 sc5, dec5, sc5 (15 sts)

R6 dec1, sc3, dec2, sc3, dec1, sc1 (11 sts)

Stuff the bottom legs.

Change color to skin tone

R7-R26 sc11

Stuff legs very, very light.

Making body

With white thread/yarn

R1 Bring both legs together and stitch all around (both legs making one wrking piece

out of these two) (22 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x7, inc last stitch (30 sts)

R3-R8 sc30

R9 BLO (back loops only) sc30

R10-R14 sc30

R15 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R16 sc24

R17 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R18 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm

R19 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R20 sc12

Arms (make 2)

With flash color yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2-R3 sc9

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

R5*inc1, sc1 3 (9 sts)

R6-R17 sc9

Change color to white

R18 inc9 (18 sts)

R19 sc18

R20 dec9 (9 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the sleeve.

Sew hands nicely on side of the body

Skirt

there are two different skirt patterns. I couldn’t decide which one so giving you both of them. If you look at the photo, you can see there are two different skirts. Make one you like better.

When it comes to describing patterns with dc and different stitches used I am no expert at all, so forgive me if there are mistakes or misunderstandings. If you will have difficulties, please let me know so can help you so me more with it.

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around

R2 ch3 counts as 1st dc, dc1 in same stitch, ch1, dc2 in same stitch,*skip2, dc2, ch1, dc2 in same stitch* repeat around  slip stitch last to first 3chain made and continue with next round

R3  *dc2 in chain of shell made in R2, ch1 2dc in same loop* around

R4-R5 repeat R3

Second skirt pattern I used

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around , slip stitch last to first

R2 working in back loops only, *hdc, sc, hdc over next three stitches, long dc (inserting the hook in the base of sc made previous round)* work this pattern 1 round

R3 ch3, turn, working in both loops (will work every second stitch this round) in each long dc of previous round sc1, skip one, and sc3 in one stitch, skip one- sc1 in long dc….continue this way around

R4 repeat R2

R5 repeat R3

R6 repeat R2

R7 repeat R3

R8 repeat R2

R9 5dc in sc made previous round, sc in long dc made previous round – repeat this around

Tie off hide ends

Halo (star)

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 ch3, *dc1, ch1, dc1 in same stitch* x4, dc1, ch1 slip stitch to chain made at start

You will create 5 petals or five points of the star

R2 ch3, *dc to chain between two dc (dc-ch-dc at previous round), ch3, slip stitch in between petals, ch3* x4 ch3 and slip stitch to the base of first chain made in this round.

Tie of leaving long end for sewing

Sew the star on top of angel’s head.

Hair

In white color thread/yarn

Sc4 in magic ring (do not close the ring) ch1, turn

Making rows here, so chain nad turn ater aech row is done

R1 inc4 (8 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R7-R11 sc28

R12 do not turn, ch1, and work on sides (edges), sc around until you reach magic ring,

 

In magic ring sc1, ch9, starting at second ch from hook, slip stitch 8

Repeat this two more time (making 3 bangs)

When finished with bangs, continue with single crochet stitches around next side of the hair. Reaching end, tie off.

You can either make braids, pony tails, curls

Make them on the side of the head, using last row to slip stitch and continue work

I made braids, waving the thread to first three stitches on each side, then making

braids and folding them beneath the hair. Added wool bows on top of them.

Same way you can make curls. Slip stitch to side stitch, chain desired length for curl to be and either double or triple stitch to one chain stitch in order to reach curly look.

Repeat that for two or three stitches one each side.

For pony tails, make little tassels and sew on sides.

Angel Wing Pattern

Ch7

R1 Dc to 3rd ch from hook, dc1 to next, dc2 in next, dc1, next, dc2 next (8dcs)

R2 Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , dc to next dc on previous row, *ch2, dc*  across this row (last dc will be in the place of chain3 of previous row-to achieve this skip last “normal dc from previous row and stitch dc into chain (7dcs+1ch3)

R3 Ch2 turn, 2dc-ch2-2dc in second ch2 made previous row, skip one chain and repeat 2dc-ch2-2dc two more times (same way, skipping one chain and making cluster to next),to finish this row, make last dc to beginning chain of previous row

R4 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc repeat three times making them in place of chains of each cluster made previous row. Finish of with dc made in last chain of previous row

R5 Ch2, turn,  3dc-ch2-3dc clusters make again in chains of each cluster made previous row. Exception this time is ch2 between each cluster made. Finish with dc in chain of previous row

R6 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc-ch2-sc to next chain of previous row

R7 Ch4, turn, 4dc-ch2-4dc made in chain of cluster made previous row, finish row with dc to chain of previous row

Here is photo of both wings made (not blocked yet). Just to give you idea on how they should look like.Angel Wings

To finish – the pattern uses picots and single crochet around the wing.

Picots are made: ch3 on last working sc and then slip stitch to the base of the stitch (or you can slip stitch to 3rd chain from hook)

If picot is difficult, you can single crochet around wing, just to make it firmer, or you can leave it as it is.

After both wings are finished, sew them together over beginning 5 chain stitches.

Use some fabric starch to harden and model the wings nicely.

And that is it! Angel done in no time!

Hope you have enjoyed and will even more when your Angel will be finished.

It is really fun little one to have near. Makes me smile whenever I see it!

Thank you everyone!

Love,

Vanja

 

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BB Candy Dolls

It is busy time of year for many of us. Had hands full with christmas ornaments but wasn’t stopped making-creating something new.

I just loooooove making dolls! BB Candy dolls that would like to share with you today, took me the longest time to create from any other doll made so far. It is not doll to be made within few hours. And those that will try will see themselves. When picture of this doll popped out in my head, didn’t sleep until the doll was not done. I am more than happy with the final outcome and am really proud to share them with you.

Here is a little photo of three of them finished so far (have several more I am working on-making clothes take time to design and create)!BBCandies

Doll in the middle is little different. She is made in fine thread instead of yarn and is  completely different stitch count from the other two dolls and the pattern I will share with you today. She is my first “lace doll” and such dolls will go to my shop. She is in the photo because the shape of the body is very similar to ones on sides, and cloths fits all dolls the same way.

Here is one more photo of lace doll aloneCountry

Like mentioned earlier, pattern that am sharing with you today, requires a little bit more work than BB Dolls or miniature Karla doll. These dolls are 21-22 cm tall and are more doll companions, treasure dolls than one to stick in the bag and carry around. At least I feel for them this way. They are really darlings and whoever will try making one will understand what I’m talking about now.

Summer

Will give you two different options to make a doll. One with all five fingers on, or fingerless doll that is for the most, easier way to work. Here is the photo of two unfinished dolls that are made with fingerless arms. Fingerless dolls are made in DK, No.3 yarn weight, or light weight. These particular two were made in RedHeart FinaDK (100% New wool), with 2,5 mm hook. Candies-fingerless pattern

Dolls you have seen on group photo (side ones), Summer girl and Holiday one, were made in Lace type of yarn. Made them using SchachenmayrSMC Suavel in very light peach. Head and body were made with two strands of yarn and 2,5 mm hook, while the fingers and hand were done with just one strand and 1,75 mm hook (arm was then continued and worked with two strands and 2,5 hook).

One more photo of Holiday Doll and let us move to pattern.Holiday Doll

Materials used:

No.0 or No.3 yarn of your choice for the dolls head and body.

2,5 mm crochet hook

No5 cotton yarn (thread) for knitting (this is what my label sys. it is very fine yarn, thread looking) + 2 mm crochet hook to make the cloths

Stuffing

Any kind of natural fibers yarn for hair (gives you better results than acrylic yarns)

buttons, ribbons, glue… anything else you would like for decorating the doll

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2 stitches in same stitch)

dec – decrease (decrease two stitches, or 2 stitches together; I like to use invisible decrease)

** – repeat what between stars

sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitches

R – round or row count (depending if working in rounds or rows)

If something is missed and you have problems reading the pattern, feel free to write and ask; will be glad to help.

Time for our pattern!

Dolls Head & Body

Head

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1 sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R13 sc42

R14 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R15-R17 sc54

R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48

R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm. Take your time stuffing the head so it remains with nice shape.

R23 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Legs x2

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 Inc5 (10)

R2-R6 Sc10

R7 ch1, turn, sc8

R8 ch1, turn, sc8

R9 ch1, turn sc4, ch1 fold the last row in half and sc4 (from bottom to the edge)

R10 ch1 sc12 (stitch the corners as well)

Stuff the foot nice and firm. Continue stuffing the legs as you go (don’t stuff to hard).

R11-R30 sc12

Body

Bring legs together. Starting from right leg forward left, sl st to stitch that is closes (right to left) sc in same stitch, ch2 and continue with R1

R1 sc to next leg (on your left working side), sc next11 sts, sc2 over chain, sc next 11 sts (first leg-right side working leg) (28 sts)

R2 sc1, Inc2 over 2chain stitches previousround, sc25 (30 sts)

R3 Inc4, sc8, inc1, sc8, inc1,sc8   (36 sts)

R4-R10 sc36

R11 *dec1, sc7* x4 (32 sts)

R12-R13 sc32

R14 *dec1, sc6* x4 (28 sts)

R15-R16 sc28

R17 *dec1, sc5* x4 (24 sts)

R18-R19 sc24

R20  *dec, sc4* x4 (20 sts)

R21 sc20

Begin stuffing the body

R22 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)

R24 sc12

Finish stuffing the body. Will add more stuffing when sewing head and body parts together.

Arms

Fingerless hands

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 Inc5 (10 sts)

R2-R4 Sc10

R5 1popcorn stitch (with 3hds), sc9 (10 sts)

R6 Sc10

R7 *dec1, sc3* x2 (8 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R9-R26 Sc10

Hands with fingers

fingers x4

sc4in magic ring

R1-R4 sc4

little finger

sc4 inmagic ring

R1-R3 sc4

R1 (of hand making) With little finger as working one, continue joining other fingers.

join fingers x3

over 2 sc each, last finger stitch across and continue (16 sts)

R2 right hand – dec2, sc12 (14 sts)

left hand – sc12, dec2 (14 sts)

R3 rigt hand – dec2, sc10 (12 sts)

left hand – sc10, dec2 (12 sts)

R4 right hand – sc2, attach thumb over2sts, sc8

left hand – sc6, sc2 over thumb, sc4

R5 right hand – sc2, sc2 on thumb only, sc8

left hand – sc6, sc2 thumb, sc4

R6 sc12

R7 *dec1,sc4* x2 (10 sts)

change hook

R8-R25 sc10

Sew all parts together.

We can make hair and eyes in order to finish doll completely and prepare her for dressing up.

Hair

These dolls are made with wigs. There are two ways doing it. You can attach hair directly to head, waving through the stitches on the head, or, you can make wig separately, and wave the hairs on the wig. It really depends on what one prefers. My dolls are done both ways. Some have hairs woven directly on the head (white haired doll in holiday suit and yellow hair doll with pigtails), or making wig (red haired doll with fingerless hands and white haired doll in blue and white dress). You can wave the hairs just on top of the head (i waved it in only at first 6 rows of the head), and wigs that were made, were made same size (fitting the head like this, on top), or you can wave the hairs all around, filling top and back of the head. I can advise you to be careful what yarn you are working with. Not only to use natural fiber yarns, but also spare on yarn as well. Stitching and waving to every stitch will make hair looking huge and to big for your doll. If the yarn is thick, use it on every second or third stitch. Experiment a little. For the time being I don’t have tutorial on how this is done, but will try to make one while I will work on my future dolls. For starters I can advise you to look at tutorial by Beth Webber. It is completely in photos and very well described. You can find it here http://byhookbyhand.blogspot.com/search/label/Wig%20Making

On this blog you will find all different kinds of wig making. For now it is best I can offer, and Beth Webber is wonderful doll designer.

Eyes – crochet

As you could see on the photos, eyes on Candy dolls are crochet as well. To make them you will need embroidery thread in black, white and eye color of your choice and 1,25 steel crochet hook

Start with black

sc5 in magic ring

R1 increase5 (10 sts)

R2 change color to eye color to eye, BLO sl st to next stitch, sc, 2hdc, sc, sl st – ctu the yarn and pul it out from the loop

change color to white

R3 Return to 1 sl st of eye color worked R2 and working in Blo, pull out white thread. sc, hdc, sc, sl st (cut thread and pul it out from the loop)

cut all threads to 5 mm length and glue them on the back of the eye. Let it all dry. You can glue the eyes on the face or you can sew them on with floss thread (so called invisible thread).

If you like to add eyelashes, cut six pieces of black thread of about 2 cm long, and wave them to three sided loops on each eye (black part). glue the back of loops so eye lashes don’t fall out when cut short.

Once dried, cut the eyelashes to 2-3 mm length and curl hem towards forward, over eye.

I added white eye sparks with textile paint (because the eyes were very tiny and hard, difficult to sew white over the black).

You can always use safety eyes, or you can paint the eyes. Place them right after R14 leaving at least 4-5 stitches between them.

Nose is sewed on (embroidered) with same yarn dolls head and body was worked with. Embroider it in the middle of R14 and R15.

Use some powder blush to make cheeks rosy. If you like you can add lips embroidering them as well.

Dolls Outfit!

Will give you details on how to make Holiday outfit (Elf doll you can see in the photo as well as how to make a dress out of the shirt she is wearing). Will try to add more clothes these days. Hats, shoes, different dresses….

Overalls

Ch20 sl st last to first and continue in rounds

R1 Sc20

R2 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R5-R10 Sc35

R11 Connect and stitch around both legs (70 sts)

R12-R23 Sc70

R24 *Dec1, sc1* around

R25 Ch3, skip 1, dc1, *ch1, skip1 dc1* around – sl st last ot first chain made

Use bow at this row. Tie it in front.

R26 ch1, sc2 over ch made, between each dc, sl st last to first and tie off

Top of the pants.

R1Count 12 sc centered front, sl st last and sc12, ch1, turn

R2-R6 sc12 (making rows, ch1, turn each row)

R7 dec1, sc8, dec1 (10 sts)

R8 dec1, sc6, dec1 (8 sts)

Sl st to the 12th stitch from the last one stitched of the front upper part made. (count to your left) We are making straps here, starting them from back.

R1 Sc2,ch1, turn

R2-R18 Sc2, ch6, sl st to next st (button holder made), tie off

Now count 13 sts on the other side of the first row front upper part made (count to your right).

R1 Sc2, ch1, turn

R2-R18 Sc2, ch6, sl st to next st, tie off

Sew buttons in corners of upper pants part

Shirt/dress

note: V stitch indicated in the pattern you will make: 2dc-ch-2dc in one stitch, or under the chain in every row  after 1st one.

Ch 27, dc in 4th ch from the hook

R1 ch3, turn, dc3, V st, dc4, V st, dc6, V st,  dc4, V st, dc3

R2 ch3 turn, dc5, V st, dc8, V st, dc10, V st, dc8, V st, dc5

R3 ch3, turn, dc7, V st, dc12, V st, dc14, V st, dc12, V st, dc7

R4 ch3, turn, dc9, V st, dc16, V st, dc18, V st, dc16, V st, dc9

basic top is done here!

R5 back loops only – ch3, turn dc11, skip20, dc22, skip20, dc11

Continue repeating R5 for desired length.

After done, sc all around shirt making holes for buttons on one sides edge. Do this simple way, as shown in the overalls example.

To make dress out of this top, proceed with R6 written bellow and follow further instructions

R6 *inc1, sc1* around

work in rows for at least 1 cm length (for easier clothing the doll later). After this 1cm is finished, connect ends and continue working in rounds.

After R6 is made, you can decide if will work in single crochet, double, or use any other pattern of your choice.

Same way decide of the length of the dress you will make.

With this pattern tried to show you the basic square start when making dresses or shirts.

Soon will show you how to start with round shape around neck and make shrt-dress different way.

Elf Slippers

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 sl st1, hdc3

R2 hdc1, sl st1, hdc2

R3 hdc1, sl st1, hdc2

R4 *inc, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc2* x2  (8 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc7* x2 (18 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R12-R14 sc20

R13 ch1, turn, sc15

R14-R19 sc15 (making rows, ch1, turn each row)

R20 ch1, turn, sc7 – fold the end of slipper you are currently working on in half. Skip one stitch and sc7 over two opposite stitches (of the same row).

Change color to white

R21 sc around edge and 5 stitches left of round 14, making 20 stitch count

R22 FLO, *ch2, sc to next st* repeat around

Tie of hide ends

sew tinny jungle bells on top of the shoes, or make tiny pom-poms instead

Candy cane hair band

Start with either white or red, work in rows

R1 Ch7, starting from the second st from the hook, sc6

R2 Ch1, turn, sc6

R3 Don’t ch, skip one, sc4, inc1 (6)

R4 Ch1, turn sc6

R5 Don’t ch, skip one, sc4, inc1

Change color

Repeat the pattern for desired length

One reached desired length, connect beginning and end row to form a band.

With yarn of your choice make the border (edging)

*ch2, skip one, sl st* work this pattern on both sides

And that is all for now. I hope you like my new Candy dolls design. Hope you will enjoy making them as well. For any questions you might have, or any mistakes in the pattern you might find, please let me know so can help you or make corrections immediately.

One last photo before we finish for today is….Angelone tiny angel…Agel with attitude. Mad this time because we didn’t talk about her today 😀

Wishing you all wonderful Friday and blessed weekend full of fun and joy!

Love,

Vanja

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Sara, Lara and Sophie dolls

These three dolls were one of my first attempts when started crocheting dolls. Experimented a lot with different head shapes, hair styles. BB dolls came out of these little ones.

SaraSophieLaraHave ben asked recently more than just few times for the pattern on how to make these dolls. Instead of writing separate mails and sending them, decided to share the pattern for all and make it available as all of my patterns so far.

This one is really easy and fast to do. For those that have tried making BB dolls will see that only the shape of the head and hair is different. 

Suggest you work with fine cotton yarns (DK to be the maximum weight to use), together with 2-2,5 mm hook (depending what yarn you will work with).

Dolls are small, only 5 inches (12 cm) tall, and were created as pocket or girl back pack/bag  dolls. Ones girls can carry all around.  

I don’t have all the photos made to show you all of dolls I have made in such way, but they turn out when crazy colors are used for hair; like green, pink, purple. It gives them this bright and cheerful appearance that girls like very much.

Let us start with the pattern (so you can get started making them )!

Abbreviations  (US terms):

R – round

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch (stitches)

inc – increase (two stitches in one stitch)

dec – decrease (invisible decrease or two stitches together – I used invisible decrease making these dolls)

**  – repeat what you find between

HEADhead

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain – sc3, 2scin one stitch (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 sc48 sts

R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10-R13 sc54 sts

R14 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R15 sc48 sts

R16 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R17 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

start stuffing the head at this point.

R21 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off, finish stuffing the head nice and firm

HAIR

In the photos below, I made sample of two same size hair pieces, placing them evenly on each side of the head. You can play and make them differently. You can make one bigger, the second one smaller making hair look as combed on side. You can make one big one on top of the head with pony tails on each side or just one on top of it. It is really up to your wishes, likes and desires.

Here is just a sample on how it goes for you to understand on how to play later.

head with hair prepared1head with hair prepared

 Hair is done out of two “discs” and two tessels.

Discs (make2):

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st,  continue working around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hair piece on the head later.

Tassels

Proceed shown on the photos.

I used an old embroidery thread cardboard, that was about 3 cm wide (1,3 inches) to make a tassels. So before everything cut a piece of cardboard of desired length to use to make tassel.

in inchesin cm

Once you prepare the cardboard or anything you can wrap your yarn over, wrap the yarn over the “tassel maker” 30 times (less or more… depends on how thin or thick your yarn is or how you want your tassel to look). I wrapped 30 times.tassel ready

Cut the yarn leaving long end and thread the needle (as seen in photo above).

Now what you have to do is push the needle through the middle of wrapped yarn (close to cardboard you go). Once gone through, make a knot you will tighten when pulling the yarn.tassel ready for tying uptassel wrapped - first knot madetassel tied on cardboard

Now take the tassel of the cardboard and make few more knots like this, pushing through the middle of the tassel, making knot and pulling.

Once done, you will see your tassel becoming firm at the end where you have sewed. Now try to push the needle through the yarn on top of the tassel (one you sewed while making knots). make three-four knots on top of it.tassel off the cardboardFinished tasselYour tassel is finished and ready to be sewed on head now. 

If you will find it difficult to follow (because I am very bad describing and specially bad taking photos) please try to google on how to make tassel in order to find instructions for your better understanding.

 Once done with all four pieces, pin them all on the head the way you like and sew all around.

In order to make one big piece of “disc” on top of the head, start making the disc as described in above pattern but increase evenly every round by 6,until you make 54 stitches total count. You can add two more rows 54 to finish the piece and make it fit nicely the head.

For one bigger one smaller; start as described in the pattern above, bigger disc make with last round stitch count 48, and the smaller counting 24 or 30 stitches.

LEGS & BODYfinished body

Make legs first, then join them together and continue making body.

Leg1:

Start with shoe color of your choice

6 Sc in magic ring (6 sts)

R1 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)

R2  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 sc18

R4  dec6, sc6 (12 sts)

R5  dec3, sc6 (9sts)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R6-R15: sc9

Tie off; stuff the leg.

Repeat the same for Leg2

Body

At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together. Fingers/heals pointing same directions.

R16  Stitch all around making 18 stitches around.

R17-24 sc18

R25 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R26-28: sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body nice and firm.

ARMS X2

Sc6 in magic ring

R1-R5 sc6

Change color

R6-R9 sc6

Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.

DRESS

R1  Sc18 in magic ring (don’t close the ring completely) or stitch over piece of bow or yarn you can tie in front later

R2-R3 18 sc

R4: *inc1, sc2* x6 (24)

R5-R6: 24 sc

R7: *inc1, sc3* x6 (30)

R8-R9: 30 sc

R10: *inc1, sc4* x6 (36)

R11: 36 sc

Change color

R12: *ch2, skip one, sl st* repeat all around

Tie off and hide ends.

Assembling the pieces together

assembling the doll

Put the dress over the body and sew head-body parts together. Add some stuffing between head, body so the head doesn’t flop around. Sew on the arms.  When done with body, you can start sewing the hair pieces together. Place and pin discs on top of the head. Sew them nicely all around. Place and pin tassels the way you want them to be and sew them nicely. 

Designing the face:

Embroider the eyes or if you are using safety ones place them in between rows 9-10 (embroider over round 10).

Embroider mouth right below round 12.

Your new doll is done! Quick and easy, isn’t it!?

I hope you will enjoy making her and your daughters and granddaughters will love playing with her.

Thank you for staying with me!

 

Wishing you all wonderful weekend.

Hugs to all,

Vanja

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BB Boys

 

Finally we have got the BB Boys!!!BB Boys1

Two best friends enjoying to play together! 🙂

This is the second one of my promises made last week. Still have one more to finish to be done with them all (Oopsie doll’s new outfit to make) 😉

if it wasn’t for Millylyly, who knows when these two would be created. I am glad she asked me to design boy’s hair. For starters made these two versions. Curly and strait, which are the two most common. Made in different colors, playing a little bit with length (if one likes) will give quite several hair styles for your dolls.

Boys are called BB Boys, because the head and the body (together with legs) are done the same way as BB Dolls.  Differences made were at arms length; where these two have total count of 10 rows (by 6 stitches in each row), and instead of dress these two are wearing trousers; and off course HAIR!

For the time being don’t have the pattern for the trousers I trust would make good results each time made. Darker blue trousers were done with 1,75 mm needle and finer yarn and those look good and fit good. The the second ones (lighter blue) I made with same weight yarn I used for dolls, changed the row/stitch count to fit the body, but am not satisfied with result.

This week will work on the trousers pattern and will have it for you next.

Have to be honest that was afraid how to get this “boy’s” face expression using 4 mm black, wooden beads as I used for BB dolls, and after all using same pattern that was created for girl dolls in mind.

As you can see, boy’s eyes I placed closer. Instead of leaving 8 stitches space between them, they have only 4. Added embroidered nose, but this is optional.

One more photo of boys playing before we continue on hair pattern.

BB Boys

For both of the hair bases, classic oval shape of 30 stitches count needs to be done. I have made mine this way.

For both hairs is the same! Oval shape, 30 stitches count row before making the stylish hair cut!

ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue around the chain, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1,sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

 

Brown hair boy:

You will be making hairs out of each stitch of all 30 stitches row count.

Hairs are done our usual way, chain and slip stitches  return. Once done with the base of the hair (30 stitches oval reached) continue the hairs following this chain(s) count

make:

12 x ch11 (those will make back of the head hairs) – starting from second stitch from the hook slip stitch following 10 stitches, reaching the end, slip stitch to next stitch on the base row and ch11 (repeat this for all of 12 stitches ch11, before continuing to ch10…..)

2 x ch10 -side hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch7  – front hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch10 – side hairs

4 x ch11 – back hairs

Finish off! Leave long end for sewing the hair to the head. You have made 30 hairs!

For the yellow hair style – curly one;

Once the base of the hair is made (as per the pattern on how to make the base and oval shape, above),

continue making curls in every second stitch of the base row.

here is how to do that. As you finish R4, slip stitch to the first stitch of R5,

ch16, starting at second stitch fro the hook inc15.

Once you reach the “base” slip stitch 2 following stitches, ch16 and repeat inc15

Here is the hair “length” count you have to do in order to get the right shape.

7 x ch16

6 x ch11

2 x ch16

Finish off leaving long end for sewing the hair to head.

Once done, sew the base of the hair to the head. Arrange the hairs the way you would like them to be/stay and sew or glue them. I didn’t sew the hairs! I used hot glue to fix them on the head.

If you will have problems understanding how the hair is made, let me know and will try to help. The procedure is very easy, but somehow I always make it sooooo complicated 😀

I am here to help you out, so do not hesitate to ask!

BBBoys2

Wishing you all great end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

 

Regards,

Vanja

Posted on

Fairy Dolls

As I said in the title, new fairies were born at my house this week 😀

Fairies

I have really enjoyed every second of this week so far! Making Fairies is more than making crocheted dolls it is making fantasy world come true. Making magic!

Not all the time making dolls make me smile while I am working. This was more like playing and loving it! 😀

Looking at them, all three like this, together, even though they are fairies, and good ones, they seem as they’ve done something wrong and begging for forgiveness 😀

Good news is, I have finished the Fairy house, and have made two more fairies finishing the pattern for this doll as well. The fairies you have seen and here is the house, ready and waiting for my niece to come.

Fairy houseFairy house

There is furniture inside, but the door started to crack and had to glue them in order to keep everything in one piece. Was hard for me to make a photo to show you interior of the house. With 0,4 mm wire I made tiny chair, table and baldehin bed. added seed beads in pink and purple, pink tulle for baldehin. Heart shaped carpet in white felt on the floor, tiny little pink felt pillow and blanket. Two paintings I glued on the walls….

It is cute. All is very tiny. Chair is less than 1 cm high so you can imagine what kind of work that was.

Every window has this fake glass (made out of clear plastic) so peaking can be done from the outside. Hardly, but hey…it is fairy inside and they are shy 😉

Will let you know what my niece will say when she sees the house!

Think we can continue with our fairies and the pattern. As you can see there are three different hair styles and I will try to give you pattern on how to make all of them. Possibilities on making the fairy are really endless. With this basic pattern and little of your imagination you can do miracles. And I really hope you will! Hope you will enjoy every second creating magic in your own home, making one of these cute ones.fairies

Let us begin!

For the fairies I have used 2 mm crochet hook and Patons 100% cotton yarn, DK.

They ended about 16 cm tall

I also used golden and silver thread to add sparkle to the wings. Used some glitter on centers of the flowers I have added as details on hair or shoes.

You will also need little bit of liquid fabric starch to harden the wings and to form hair into better shape (I used fabric starch on ears as well).

Doll is made in continuous rounds (head, legs, body, arms)

If you will find anything you don’t understand in the pattern, let me know so can help you out.

Fairy Doll

Head

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12  sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts) – increasing part (inc12) will be your front face. Part where nose will be sewed and eyes placed (right above row)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc3* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (20 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

Sew the nose on the middle of row14, through 2 vertical stitches

Ears (make 2)

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Ch4 on 5th stitch made sl st1, sc1, hdc1 (to chain made)

R2 sc4, sl st1

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears will be sewn, on sides of the head.  Starting row14 –  16 (downwards) and two stitches on row 16 towards back of the ear. You have to stitch 4 stitches in circle shape.

Legs & body

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body are the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

If you wish to make flat shoes, with more of leg color showing, change color to skin color yarn you will use and continue from here. If you prefer making closed shoes, as ones we used on BB dolls, continue with shoe yarn color for the next three rows.

R4: 18 sc

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

(Change color of the thread if you haven’t on R3)

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-R21

R22-23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 sc12 blo (back loops only)

Change color to skin color you use for the doll to make final two rows.

R28-R29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the body, starting at R22

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R22, ch1

R1 inc18 (38 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

Tie off, hide ends.

On R23 (we left with front loops as well) make a dress “decoration”.

You can use various edging stitches here. I used the most simple ones, but don’t let that stop you from making beautiful fairy dress you are dreaming of. If you have some nice edging stitch you would like to try out, this is great moment to do so.

I have made it this way:

Pink one:  ch3, skip1, sl st, ch3, skip1, slst…..

White/blue one: Leave 6 stitches in front, start with making  sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, dc1, hdc1, sc1, sl st1, *ch3, skip1, sl st* x5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, hdc1, sc1, sl st1. In front where 6 stitches were left, tie a bow or make some other decoration. You can even slip stitch those 6 stitches to connect sides…

Yellow/green one: at this one I forgot to left front loops 😀 So instead of crocheting directly on dress, I just made a chain and tide a little bow at front. It is loose.

Neck decoration (optional)

Use same pattern you have used for dress decoration.

Arms

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R8 sc6

Change color to one you are using for dress decoration.

R9-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Note:

Pink fairy’s arms are done completely in skin color yarn. Then the shoulders that were done making ch11, sc10 (with picoe at 5th stitch) were sewed at the dress (which was done differently. Is fitting the body, not done as part of the body making process).

I warmly recommend making the dress as shown above, rather than making the body and then dress separately, but you can do as you like it better of feel more comfortable with.

Hair

Yellow fairyYellow FairyFairy

R1 sc8 in magic ring

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)

At this point we are making hairs. Each hair at one stitch around row 4

For the bangs:

ch16, starting at second stitch from the hook inc5, sl st10 – make 8 of them

The rest of the hair:

ch26, starting at second stitch from the hook in 10, sl st15 – make 24 of them

Pink fairyPink FairyFairyFairy

 Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back in addition are made ringlets for pony tail and bun to hold the ringlets.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc8 in magic ring (do not close the ring!!!)

Ch1, turn and continue with R2

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

Here we will have 16 hairs

At this fairy’s hair we have no ringlets. Every hair is done with chain and slip stitches on the way back.

I will indicate how many chain stitches there are for each hair, for all 16 there are to make this piece.

1 & 2: ch26 (25 slip stitches) – These two hairs (on each side) you will use to wrap  and sew around back piece’s edge, behind the ear.

3. 4 & 5: ch17 (16 slip stitches) – Side hairs, placed in front of ear.

6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11: ch10 (9 slip stitches) – bangs

12, 13 & 14: ch17 (16 slip stitches – Side hair, in front of ear to be placed

15 & 16: ch 26 (25 slip stitches) – back hairs. Behind ear and to wrap to back piece.

Back of the hair:

Ch8

*Sl st3, sc2, hdc2*

Repeat ** stitching in BLO (back loops only)

Make 30 rows like this before closing.

Also check if the round piece fits your dolls head. Add row or two if necessary.

You will have a hole in the middle that we will use to make a pony tail

Ringlets for pony tail:

Ch36-41

I made 4 ringlets in different stitch count (from 35-40 stitches)

R1 inc each stitch

Reaching end of first ringlet, just chain again and continue making new one

Bun to close the hair piece hole and hold ringlets at place:

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end to sew the bun on

As you have finished all the hair pieces place them on the head. Pin them well before sewing.

Place ringlet’s (where they attach one to another) into the bun. You can use little bit of stuffing to tie them in the bun before sewing the bun on the head.

Now sew little by little. Starting with back of the hair and the ringlets. When that is done, decorate the front piece. Pin it how you would like hairs to go.

Here is my tip:

Sew the basic lines you wish hair to go and how to look.

The final touch you will get by using fabric starch to fix the hair look the way you want it. I used liquid one. Got my fingers wet and used it directly on the hair, forming it and modeling until I felt was good enough or the way I wanted it.

Use fabric starch at the end. When doll is completely done. Making the hair look nice is your final touch making the doll.

Blue fairy:Blue FairyFairyFairyFairy

Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back piece, or better said the sides of it, two buns to hold the pony tails were added.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc5 in magic ring

R2 in5 (10 sts)

Now hair making of the chains from every stitch in row2 – 10 hairs

1, 2 & 3: ch21; inc10, sl st10 (20 sts) – two are going behind ear, one in front.

4: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

5 & 6: ch 11; sl st10 (10 sts) – bangs

7: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

8, 9 & 10: ch21; inc10, sl st 10 – one in front of ear, two behind

Back of the head piece:

Ch15

You will be working on both sides of the chain. Same procedure as with the front piece; chains and slip stitches back to create hairs.

In each of the 15 stitches chain 9- sl st8

When done connect each hair’s end with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Now repeat the same for the other side of the chain. 15 stitches, 15 hairs with ch9; sl st8. Connect the ends with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Pony tails:

Ch 26; inc15, sl st 10

Make three for each side

Buns to hold the tails:

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

WingsFairies

For wings I used the pattern you can find on the following link.

http://nerospost.wordpress.com/2013/01/25/crochet-butterfly-pattern/

It is butterfly pattern and is very easy to be made.  Please note that the pattern uses UK terms! 

I was looking for firm but yet enough lacy kind of wings and these seemed perfect.

They really are!

I used fabric starch on them as well so they stay firm and really nice.

On two of the wings, pink and green fairy, together with white yarn I used a golden thread to make wings sparkling.

On blue fairy I used silver thread, what I liked more but unfortunately didn’t have enough of it for entire wings. Silvery was just about how I wanted it. Hardly noticed but yet was giving this little touch of magic. Golden thread is little more aggressive for my taste, but you do and use what you have available or like.

You can try with different butterfly patterns. There are no limits to ones imagination.

I always try to encourage you to try different things, to try adding something own to whole project. I am just giving you idea on what could be done.

In this case, possibilities to make the fairy are really endless. You can decorate her dress many, many different ways. You can add tiny details to her hair, shoes….

You can make hair many ways as well. Here are just three basic patterns that you can work on and make endless hair styles.

Make long big ringlets or make short hair fairy…

If you wish to bring magic to your finished doll….think magic….make it.

You can always ask me for any help. Will be glad to help you and share what I know and can.

Almost forgot to mention details I have made on the fairies such as tiny flowers, tiaras.

Flowers I used n the shoes:

Was looking for tiniest flowers I could do with same yarn used for entire doll, but whatever there from the patterns available or those I use often were to big.

So I ended up making this tiny flowers this way:

Ch3, sl st to 3rd ch from the hook, ch2, sl st to the same chain st….repeat to reach 5 petals.

You can do this with magic ring as well. Think it might be evenbetter (you can close the ring completely)

Start with sc1 in magic ring, ch1, sl st to magic ring and repeat until you reach 5 petals. Tie off.

Tiaras:

Both tiaras (on pink and green fairy) were done the same way. Pink one was done with thread so was very loose and had to put it on a wire to stay firm.

Green one was sprinkled with glitter after starched and placed on the head (I sewed this one on the head)

Both were done by making desired length chain

First row was done in single crochet

The second one was done ch3, skip one, sl st1, ch3…..

Flowers on blue fairy, one I used in hair were made my usual way.

Sc5 in magic ring

Sl st 5th to 1st

Ch2, hdc1, sl st to next st…

Repeat for all five petals

Fairies

 If I have missed anything or you wish to find out more, please feel free to write and ask.

I hope you will enjoy making these magic dolls! Make sure to share you photos with us!

Thank you everyone!!!!

Have a magic weekend!

Love and hugs,

Vanja