Pammy the Piglet

And again we have little treat from our Facebook group. I try to encourage and post free patterns done by dear friends and amigurumi enthusiasts who make these for pleasure and fun. If you remember first one we shared this way was little Bianchina by Stefania Bianchi. She was accepted great and there are many Bianchina projects finished and photos shared on Facebook what makes me so happy. Really hope Stefania will come up with some new pattern we can share soon.

This time I can proudly present little Pammy the Piglet made by NVkatherine from Vietnam. This is her third free pattern. She also makes video tutorials of her projects and I will share you her links so you can visit and see her work.

She was very kind to offer this pattern to be presented and shared in my blog and I feel very honored and happy I have this blog and all of you dear friends who follow to share this little one with.

So here it is, little Pammy the Piglet:

pammy_the_piglet__free_pattern___tutorial__by_nvkatherine-d7mbvwt

PATTERN:

Abbreviations:

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

inc = increase (a.k.a. 2sc in 1st)

dec = decrease (a.k.a. sc2tog)

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only

FO = fasten off

 

HEAD

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 1sc in each st around [24]

6. 3sc, 1inc [30]

7. 4sc, 1inc [36]

8. 5sc, 1inc [42]

9. 1sc in each st around for 5 rows [42]

10. 5sc, 1dec [36]

11. 4sc, 1dec [30]

12. 3sc, 1dec [24]

~> Add safety eyes between row 9 and 10, 11 stitches apart.

13. 2sc, 1dec [18]

14. 1sc, 1dec [12]

15. dec around [6]

FO. Leave a long tail to sew up the gap.

 

BODY

*With white yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 3sc, 1inc [30]

6. 1sc in each st around for 3 rows [30]

*Change to pink*

7. 4sc, 1dec [25]

8. 1sc in each st around [25]

9. 3sc, 1dec [20]

10. 1sc in each st around [20]

11. 2sc, 1dec [15]

12. 3sc, 1dec [12]

FO. Leave a long tail to connect the body to the head.

 

LEGS

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [18]

5. 4sc, 1dec [15]

6. 1sc in each st around [15]

7. 3sc, 1dec [12]

8. 2sc, 1dec [9]

9. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [9]

FO. Leave long tails to sew the legs onto the body.

 

ARMS

*With pink yarn*

1. 7sc in the magic ring [7]

2. 1sc in each st around for 10 rows [7]

F/O. Leave long tails to sew both arms onto the body.

 

NOSE

*With pink*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 2sc, 1inc [16]

4. sc around in BLO [16]

5. sc around normally [16]

F/O. Leave long tail to sew onto the face.

 

EARS

1. 4sc in the magic ring [4]

2. 1sc, 1inc [6]

3. 1dec, 4inc [9]

4. 1inc, 2sc [12]

5. 3sc, 1inc [15]

6. 4sc, 1inc [18]

7. 1sc, 1dec [12]

8. dec around [6]

Sl st into next st and F/O. Leave long tails to sew the ears onto the head.

 

TAIL

1. ch6

2. 1inc across starting from the second chain from the hook [10]

F/O. Leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

NOTE: After sewing on everything, you can add decorations onto your pig. It’s totally up to you! ^^

 

For complete video tutorial on how to make your Pammy the Piglet, please fee free to visit Youtube and watch the vide NVkatherine made for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6tGSbjx0Co

Pammy the Piglet by NVkatherine

For all questions, likes and anything else you would like to find about designer and her patterns you can find her on these two links:

Devianart:

http://nvkatherine.deviantart.com/art/Pammy-the-Piglet-FREE-PATTERN-TUTORIAL-460769357

Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/vi.lenguyennhat

 

So what do you think? Isn’t this one so adorable that you feel like making one for yourself?

Hope you have enjoyed. Thank you for staying with me and little Pammy  the Piglet.

Hugs

Vanja

Designed by NVkatherine2014

This is originally designed by NVkatherine so please do NOT claim this pattern yours. Don’t repost the pattern any where or sell it. You may sell the finished dolls but please give NVkatherine/Vi the credit as the designer.

Thank you

 

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Marsupilami

Meet Marsupilami!!!

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Marsupilami is a fictional comic book species created by Andre Franquin, first published on 31 January 1952 in the Franco-Belgian comics magazine Spirou.

You can visit YouTube and look for Marsupilami cartoons and have lots of fun and laugh at his jungle adventures 😀

After that you can take your yarns and hook and make one for yourself and have fun every day watching this silly creature gooofing around your room with his silly face, long bouncing ears and tail.

Marsupilami was done few weeks ago, but was waiting for my friends from the Facebook group to finish trying out the pattern so the final pattern comes out with as little mistakes as possible.

One more look of to Marsupilami and we can get started with the pattern.

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Materials needed

Matching yarn and hook accordingly you will need

crochet hook (I used 2,5 mm and DK-medium weigh cotton yarn)

yarn:

– yellow,

– light peach (beige),

– little bits of white and black (for eyes and nose)

Embroidery & darning needles

Stuffing

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two stc stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stich – 2dc under same stitch; follow the link for explanation and how to.

http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

Work is done in continuous rounds (spiral work). Use marker  for easier round following.

Head

Using yellow yarn

Ch6

R1 sc4 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 sc54

R10 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11-R14 sc60

R15 *dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 *dec1 sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff the head some more if needed.

Feet-legs-body

Feet and hands are done with light peach or beige color yarn, while the rest is crocheted with yellow

 

First make leg fingers

Start working with light peach color yarn or beige

 

Make 2

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

Tie off

 

Make one (middle finger)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Tie off.

 

And the last finger we won’t tie off but will continue

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger (longer one) and continue with 3sc over middle finger, bring the next finger. You will make 6sc over this finger, working around the finger pointing to back side of middle finger direction; continue stitching 3sc of middle finger; now back to finger we have started from, making 6sc. Round is finished with total of 18 sts (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff the fingers at this point.

R8 at this round we will connect thumb sc3, now sc3 through thumb and working piece (in order to connect them), sc12 (18 sts)

R9 sc3, sc3 just over thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc12 (18 sts)

R10 sc10, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold the last row in half and slip stitch through 7 stitches (this can be difficult as the piece is small, if you find it easier, you can sew the back instead).

What we have done here, is closed the foot. Now it is round, opened only on top side, where we’ll continue with crocheting the leg.

Reaching the end – closing the back of the foot (after 7 sts made) change color to yellow.

Add more stuffing to the foot and continue stuffing the leg as you go.

R13 make 12sc around the top edge of the foot made (continue working in continuous rounds)

R14 sc12 back lops only

(this is in case you want to ad fringes to ad more fur looking body. It is optional. I have made back loops on all, legs, arms and neck, but added fringes only around neck area.)

R15-R28 sc12

Note: to add knees make 3cluster stitches (each with 2dc) in the front area of the round 19.

At the end of R28 tie off and cut ends.

This leg we have just made was right side one.

 

Here are the instructions to make left side leg (the foot makes the difference)

 

Left foot

 

Start making leg as written above.  Changes on the pattern will start at R8.

 

R8 sc7, sc3 through both –thumb and working piece stitches, sc8 (18 sts)

R9 sc7, sc3 just through thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc8 (18 sts)

R10 sc1, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold these tow rows you worked at in half (right sides facing each other)

 

Continue with the pattern as written above, but don’t cut the thread and tie off.

 

Legs finished,

making body:

 

Connect legs

R1 Ch3, continue making sc on right leg; sc12, sc3 (over the back side of chain made at start) sc12 (left leg) (30 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R3-R12 sc36

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14-R15 sc30

R16 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R21 sc24

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R23 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm.

R24 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R25 sc12 back loops only

R26 sc12

Finish stuffing the body. Ad some more stuffing at the time when sewing head and body together to make the neck part nice and firm.

Arms x2

Firs make fingers

Each hand will have four fingers. Middle finger is one round longer.

 

Make2 (for each hand)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

 

Middle finger

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Last finger to go:

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger and stitch over it 3sc, bring next finger and sc6, (continue working around the fingers as you go), sc3 over middle finger previously added, sc6 over starting finger (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff fingers.

R8 connecting thumb round (both arms are the same) – sc5, sc3 through double stitches (thumb and working piece), sc 10 (18 sts)

R9 sc5, sc3 (thumb only) sc10 (18 sts)

Change color to yellow

Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm as you go.

R10 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R11 work in back loops only if wish to add fringes on hands *dec1, sc4* x2 (10 sts)

R12-R31 sc10

To add elbows, make 3 cluster stitches with 2dc each. Add them around rounds17-18.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Eyes x2

With white yarn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

Ti off leaving long end for sewing

 

Black pupils are placed in the inner sides of eyes, between rows 2-3. I have painted mine, but if you are using safety eyes or beads this is the place where to position them.

White eye parts are placed next to each other on the upper half side of the head. (eyes and mouth piece will meet on the middle of the head (so pay attention to that).

Nose will be placed the way to touch the outer eye line and will go through 4-5 rounds over the mouth piece.

Nose

With black yarn

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3 sc in one st, sc5, 2 sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 *inc1. sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R3 sc24

R4 *dec1, sc1* x8 (16 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose on the head. Stuff the nose well.

Place and sew the nose as described above.

Mouth-facial piece

With light peach or beige

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1 sc5* x6 (42 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4-R8 sc24

R9 *dec1, sc10* x2 (22 sts)

R10 sc22

R11 *dec1, sc9* x2 (20 sts)

R12 sc20

R13 *dec1, sc8* x2 (18 sts)

R14 sc18

R15 *dec1, sc7* x2 (16 sts)

R16 sc16

R17 *dec1, sc6* x2 (14 sts)

R18 sc14

R19 *dec1, sc5* x2 (12 sts)

R10-R17 sc12

Flatten the ears, tie off leaving long end for sewing them on the head later.

Belly

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 Inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing

Position the belly on the lower side of the body and sew it nicely.

Tail

Sc6 in magic ring

R1-… make tail as long as you like using 6sc Marsupilami has very long tail. I suggest making it 26 cm (12”). That size won’t make it too long and will still be nice and long.

Last 5 rounds *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts), next 4rounds stitch 8sc for firmer tail body connection.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Time to sew all body parts together.

Connect head and body. Sew on the arms. Place them around rounds 24-25. Round 25 needs to be left free as you will put additional hairs here to create fur around neck.

At the end place on and sew the ears. Sew them on top sides of the head, rounds 5-6.

When sewing use one round stitches on the head and sew through both loops of the ears. Try to make them point upwards so ears can appear fluffy and in motion.

At the end sew the tail on.

Position it centered on the lower back side of the body, 5-6 rounds upwards from feet connected round.

What is left is to embroider black spots on it’s body.

Making fur around neck (arms and legs) is optional.

As you could see, I left front loops on arms, legs and around neck area. I have put on these extra hairs around neck only.

It is done as making hair. You will hook and knot yarn pieces through front loops, and when all done, trim it in V shape (longer points in front and back).

I have also added a fish Marsupilami holds in his hand. You can add it as well if you wish.

.pdf of the pattern you can find here:

https://amigurumibb.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/marsupilami.pdf

We have to finish our toy with one more tiny detail and it is fish Marsupilami is holding.

Fish

With same size hook and yarn of your choice

Make 2 (tail fins)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 dec4 (4 sts)

R4 connect both fin pieces, making 8sc around

R5 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x2 ( 14 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R10-R12 sc20

From next round we’ll start decreasing so start stuffing the body as you go.

R13 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R16  dec4 (4 sts)

By now fish should be stuffed well. Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle with excess yarn and close the last round nicely.

Upper fin, slip stitch to 8th round top stitch on the body (work through top stitches of rounds8-5) ch1, hdc in same st, 2dc in next two sts, hdc in 4th st and sc in same

Tie off, hide ends

 

Lower side fins

Here start at 7th round stitch; ch1, hdc in same stitch, 2dc in next st, hdc &sc in third st (tie off, hide ends)

Repeat at both sides paying attention to make them as symmetrical as possible.

With white yarn and embroidery needle sew on the eyes. With black thread ad pupils on top of each eye.

Hope the fish was not difficult to make and it ended up cute.

And that’s it! Your Marsupilami is finished! Hope you have enjoyed making him and even more will enjoy playing!Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Thank you,

♡ Vanja

Quack quack babies

Last year I have introduced Quack Quack parents. Hope you still remember them. They were accepted very well and have seen many of them done for the past few months.

One of the nice blog followers who is with me since the first day I started here is dear friend Amanda Turner. She came up with completely new pattern using the Quack one I made. She made duckling and drake first, but then was missing the baby. In order to do that she cut the original pattern in half; rows, stitches….and came up with baby duckling. Miniature, miniature duckling to make and add to duckling family.

Amanda sent me the pattern to try out and I was thrilled the way duckling was coming out. First one I made was with 5 ply cotton yarn and 2 mm hook and it ended up not bigger than 6 cm (2 1⁄2″). Being so sweet and huggable decided to try to make one even tinier than that. Grabbed 1,5 mm hook and thread no.10 and made little baby duckling of 4,5 cm (2″) tall.

What can I tell you except Amanda did great job. Pattern is easy to follow, easy to make and duckling is more than adorable.

Here are two of my little baby ducklings

Quack brothers

I have already added the .pdf of the pattern you can find here, under Free Patterns page.

Hope you will enjoy these little ones as much as I did!

All thanks to Amanda and her great job done making this pattern available for us.

Minie quacks

Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head

Hello everyone!

This week I wanted to share new doll pattern, but meantime I made a promise to Donna who is crocheting animals for kids at her local hospital that will try to make this pattern alive, and here we are Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head is free to be done for little ones and those not so little!

My first Teddy Eddy was made for my sweetheart, as a key holder (and named after him). Made many of these teddies. Not only as bears but it is easy to be done/adjusted as koala or panda.

It is really cute and small one! Hardly makes 10 cm (with dk cotton and 2 mm hook). One fast and easy project to do.

Here are the photos of my little Teddy Eddy

On first photo is my first TeddyEddy done. Was one of those projects, when I just took the yarn and the needle and crocheted without anything in my mind. Waited to get surprised what will come out from my work.

On the second photo are some of little ones I made later. Whoever saw TeddyEddy, wanted one immediately!

TeddyEddy4Friends will be friends

This one I made today, while writing down the pattern.

TeddyEddy

Think we can start!

Materials I used:

2 mm crochet hook

Patons 100% cotton yarn DK

Wooden black beads, 4 mm, for the eyes

needle for sewing the parts together, nose and shaping the head.

Small piece of black yarn for making the nose

 

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)

dec – decrease (I used invisible decrease)

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6  (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6-R9 sc30 sts  (for those that use safety eyes, pčace the eyes in between R9 and R10 leaving 4 sc between them.)

R10 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R12 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts) – mark this row, as here we will sew a little to shape the head

R13-R14 sc48 sts

R15 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R16 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R17 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Body

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R11 sc36 sts

R12 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30sts)

R13 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R15-R16 sc18 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head later. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R5-R8 sc8 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arm to the head later. If you want you can stuff the bottom of each arm a little.

 

Legs (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1*x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5-R6 sc24 sts

R7 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R8 sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R12 sc12 sts

Stuff the bottom of the leg. Flatten the top and single crochet through both sides for 5 stitches total. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the legs to the body later.

 

Ears

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3-R4 sc12 sts

R5 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears later.

 

Belly

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the belly on the body.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3 sc9 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail to the body later.

 

Shaping the head:

Take the bears head in your hands. By now should be well stuffed and nicely firm. As you can see, there are 6 peaks around the bottom part of the head (where we started to decrease). Pick one of these peaks. On R12 that we have marked earlier at one of these peaks mark 3 stitches using safety pins.

What you will do now, is wave the yarn with the needle through these three stitches (from the bottom of the head opening, through the head, through the stitch out, into the second stitch, through the head to the bottom, pull, through the head up to the next  stitch …repeat for each stitch).

where to wave in and sew to shape the head

To make few hairs on top of the head, when done shaping the head, pull the needle through the head to the top. Sew few lops (as if making the tassel-1-2 are enough). Finish off pulling the needle through the head, towards the bottom, cut and hide ends in the stuffing.

When done with this waving and sewing, you will get this pointing nose looking shape, when looking from the side.

assembling the parts

Assembling the parts together:

Sew body and the head together through 18 stitches on each side.

Arms will go on sides of the body

Sew the legs in between the row5 and 6. Center them, leaving 2 stitches in between them.

Tail will go on the back of the body, right after row 5.

Place the ears on the sides of the head, starting row 4 downwards.

Place the belly and sew it all around to fin nicely on the center of the body’s front.

And your TeddyEddy is done.TeddyEddy

Hope you have enjoyed making it. If you will need any help regarding the head shaping and sewing, please feel free to contact me and ask. I will try to make some good photographs of the whole process as well, for your easier following and understanding how it goes.

’till next time wishing you all great time crocheting 🙂

 

 

Blue Bear friends you can make

My dear friends. Last week I shared Blue Bear pattern. Bears are classics and are suitable for big and small, young and old…

This week wanted to show you what you can make out of one pattern you like or find easy; will show you on Blue Bear pattern example, but in same manner you can play and make different animals from any pattern you like or find easy to make.

I have made just few examples, but possibilities are endless. Will show you how to make a cat, dog, bunny and koala.

Head, body, arms and legs are done all the same as in Blue Bear pattern. Ears and noses are changed in order to make different animal expressions.

For each animal will give you instructions on how to make. If you will wish to make some other animal that is not listed here and you don’t know how to do it, let me know and will try to help you out.

Let us start with the kitten!

Bear pets - 4Bear pets - 3

As mentioned, from the Blue Bear pattern, I have added new ears and have made different nose base.

 

Ears (make2)

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (6sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x3 (15 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x3 (18 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x3 (21 sts)

R8-R9 sc21 sts

R10 *dec1, sc5* x3 (18sts)

tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later

 

Nose base

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12 sts

tie off. Make another circle the same way. Connect both circles with one stitch and with black yarn sew the nose and mouth on.

Next one is little koala

Bear pets - 1Bear pets - 2

Koala ears (make2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6-R7 sc30 sts

R8 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R9 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later

Nose

I have made the nose base, but  it is not necessary at all. You can sew the big black nose right on the head. If you want to make the nose same way I did, make a nose base this way:

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in on st, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose later.

Bunny

Bear pets - 5Bear pets - 6

For making bunny, again, we will change the ears. Nose I have used same as made for the kitten.

Bunny ears (make2)

R1 sc 6 in magic ring

R2 sc6 sts

R3 inc6 (12 sts)

R4 sc12 sts

R5 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18sts)

R6 sc18 sts

R7 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R8-R12  sc24 sts

R13 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R14-R16 sc18 sts

R17 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18-R23 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later.

 

And the last one is little puppy

Bear pets - 7Bear pets - 8

Little puppy is made out of bunny ears and kitty nose. You can use kitten ears as well. You can sew hem on the sides pointing down, or more up on top of the head (pointing up). It is really the way you like more.

Like I mentioned earlier, possibilities are really endless. You can make a mouse, elephant, monkey, fox…

I hope you have enjoyed this post. Also hope I gave you something to think about when starting on next project. You should remember one thing, there is anything you can’t do!  😉

Fingers crossed that by next week my new doll will be done.

Wish you all great end of the week and happy relaxing weekend!

Blue Bear pattern

To all marvelous grandmothers and great-grandmothers who have asked and waited patiently for this pattern to be written, I would like to thank.

This little one is really done as a softy toy. Little pocket on his belly makes him nice hiding treasure bear as well 😀

Wish you all great Blue Bear crocheting!

Blue Bear - 5

Blue Bear Pattern:

Abbreviations:

sc -single crochet

ch -chain

inc -2sc in one stitch

dec -decrease (I used invisible decrease on this one)

sl.st. – slip stitch

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8ply cotton yarn in blue for the bear, white for the nose and pocket belly and starting ups on the legs and arms.

embroidery thread in black, embroidery needle for sewing up the parts and to embroider nose. eyes.

 

Head

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R25 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R26 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

Stuff the head well.

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 sc46 sts

R25 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R26 sc40 sts

R27 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R28 sc34 sts

R29 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

R30 sc28 sts

Stuff the body. Stuff it well, but try it to stay nice and soft.

Tie off, leave long end for sewing the body to the head. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Change color

R4-R8  sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R27 sc12 sts

Stuff the arms softly. Try to push the stuffing only to the bottom of the arms. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

 

Legs (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

Change color

R5-R9 sc24 sts

R10 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R11-25 sc18 sts

Stuff the legs softly. Try to push the stuffing  to the bottom of the leags only. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the legs to the body.

 

Ears (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18 sts

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R8 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears to the head later.

 

Nose

(continuous rounds)

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around the chain, sc3, in1 (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24sts)

R4-R5 sc24 sts

Tie off, leaving long end for sewing later.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3-R4 sc9 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail later.

 

Pocket Belly

We are working in rows here. Finishing each row, ch1, turn the work and continue as indicated in the patter.

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 inc4 (8sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x4 (32 sts)

R9-R10 sc32 sts

When done, chain one and sc through the edge. Make 2sc in the magic ring, continue with 1sc till the end.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the pocket on the body later.

Blue Bear - 3

Assembling the parts:

Sew the head and the body. You should have nice joint of 28 stitches all around. Add some stuffing as you go if needed.

Sew on the arms. Flatten them and sew them through both side stitches to the body. Try to leave 11-12 stitches between looking at front side.

Before sewing, place them nice, pin them well and sew.

Sewing the legs. Sew them between rows 6-7 (looking from the bottom).

Flatten the leas, place them close one to another, pin them and sew them nicely through he stitches between row 6 and 7.

Now sew the ears. Place them on the sides of the head. Looking from the top of the head, place them on sides starting row4 until row 10. Pin them and sew them nicely.

Sew on the tail. Place it right after row 6, in the middle of back side of the body. Sew it nicely.

Nose

You can design the tip of the nose now, or you can do it later. It depends how you like it and feel comfortable with it. Important is that you embroider the tip of the nose on the upper side of the nose construction.

Embroider mouth on the bottom part of nose construction, using black embroidery thread.

Stuff the nose (construction) a little,  place it on the bottom half of the head, pin it and sew it nicely.

Sew the eyes to the very top edge of the nose construction, leaving 7 stitches between them. It is optional to make the eyebrows or eyelashes (if you will be making a girl bear)..

At the end, place and pin the pocket belly. Sew it nicely, hide the ends.

Your Blue Bear is done and ready to play with.

Hope you enjoyed making it and kids will have fun playing!Blue Bear - 1Blue Bear - 6

Copyrigh on written pattern reserved

Ella the elephant and her boy friend

 

Few weeks ago I have introduced you my Ella the elephant , and promised how soon will write the pattern (readable one 😉 as well. Meantime got several mails, asking me if this pattern is available. So to all who asked, yes, and here it is. While working on the pattern made the second elephant. Made few changes on the boy one. His legs and arms are slightly longer than Ella’s. In this pattern I have wrote down both options. For making a boy (in my case it is grey elephant) all you will have to do is add few more rows on arms and legs as indicated in the pattern. You will see, it is all written and easy to follow.AmigurumiBB - 21

Abbreviations:

Ch: chain

St: Stitch

Sc: Single crochet

Inv.dec.: Invisible decrease

 

Materials used:

2mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in light blue or grey color

black embroidery thread for eyes and mount

embroidery needle for sewing up the parts and details

white yarn for tusks and toenails

for stuffing I used polyester fiberfil

 

You will work in continuous rounds. Make sure to mark the first stitch, but only for the easier row count. You will not be working any slip stitches at the end of each row, or any ch1. As you finish, just continue working the next round as indicated in the pattern. When finishing the piece, after making last single crochet, slip stitch to the following stitch and tie off pulling the thread out of the stitch.

For those that wish to make identical size doll to these that I have made, here is the gauge used:

1×1 cm:  4 rows x 3 stitches

1×1 inch: 9 rows x 8 stitches

 

And we are ready to get started 🙂

Here is the Ella the elephant pattern.

Head

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in one st  x6 (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *2sc in one st, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9-R12:  sc48

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

If you work with safety eyes, place them here leaving 6 stitches space between each one.

R14: *2sc in ne st, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R15-R16: sc60

R17: *Inv.dec, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R18: *Inv.dec., sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19: *Inv.dec., sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R20: *Inv.dec., sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R21: *Inv.dec., sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R22: *Inv.dec., sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R23: *Inv.dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off, stuff the head firmly.

Ears

Ch11

R1: sc9, 3sc in one st (last one on the chain), sc8, 2sc in one st. (22 sts)

R2: *2sc in one st, sc1* x10 (33 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc2* x10 (44 sts)

R4-R8: sc44

R9: *Inv.dec., sc2* x10 (33 sts)

R10: sc33

R11: *In.dec., sc1* x10 (22 sts)

R12: sc22

R13: Inv.dec x11

Tie off and leave long end for swing the ears on the head later.

Nose

R1: sc5 in magic ring (5 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st x5 (10 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4: sc15 in the outer loop  (15 sts)

R5: sc15 (both loops) (15 sts)

R6: Inv.dec.3, sc9 (12 sts)

R7-R16: sc12

R17: sc3, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4 15 sts)

R18: sc15

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the nose on the head later.

Body

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in one st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *2sc in one st, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9-R18: sc48 (48 sts)

R19: *Inv.dec., sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R20: sc42

R21: *Inv.dec., sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R22: sc36

R23: *Inv.dec., sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R24: sc30

R25: *Inv.dec., sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R26: sc24

R27: *Inv.dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R28: sc18

Tie off and leave long end to sew the body with the head later. Stuff the body well.

Legs

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in ne st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: sc24 in the outer loop only (24 sts)

R6-R10: sc24

R11: *Inv dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R12-R13: sc18

R14: *Inv.dec., sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R15-16: sc12

(if you wish to make legs longer as they are made at grey elephant, add 3 more rows)

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the legs later. Stuff only the wide, bottom part of the legs with the stuffing.

 

Arms

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: sc18 in the outer loop only

R5-R8: sc18 (for grey elephant arms add one more row)

R9: *Inv.dec., sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R15: sc12 (12 sts)

For grey elephant kind of arms, add 4 more rows.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arms later.

Stuff only the wide lower part of the arms with the stuffing.

Tail

Ch10

Tie off. Make a simple knot at the end. You can add few more threads in the last loop before fastening to give end of the tail have few hairs (and sew all as kind of little tassel), but it is optional.

Assembling the parts

AmigurumiBB - 01

Sew body and head first.

You will have 18 stitches to connect at both sides, so it should be pretty easy and give you nice clean connection. Start sewing, connecting end stitch of the head (where you tied off ) with end stitch of the body (where your thread for sewing begins), facing each other. Before finishing the sewing, add some more stuffing to the head and/or body so they connect nice and fill all empty spaces there might be between head and the body.

Now before sewing the rest look at your elephant carefully.

Turn her around looking at the head, until you notice the points where you started to make decreases. Pick one you like the best, as this peak will be the one onto which we will sew on the nose. Safe place the nose, with bobbin pins and sew it on the head. Sew through both loops of each stitch, for every stitch around nose. It is little picky work, but be patient so it will look nice later.

Arms you will sew on sides of the body. Take nose as the center point. Leave 5 stitches between each arm (looking from front side). Position the arms, safe them with pins and sew them nicely.

Sewing the legs.

Turn the Ella upside down.

Count 7 rows from the middle towards the front of the belly. You will be sewing the legs between row 7 and 8.  Take the bottom ring as your center point to position the legs evenly. Leave 3 stitches between legs, safety pin the legs on the body and sew them nicely.

Ears:  Position the ears evenly on the sides of the head. Place the ears starting R8 downwards, till R13. Sew them nicely, tie off, hide the ends.

Sew the tail between row 7 and 8 (counting from the starting ring of the body) centering it at the back side of the body.

Now you Ella is sewed completely.

Eyes:

Sew on the eyes one row above the nose level, leaving 6 stitches between each eye.

Sew them through only one stitch.

If you would like to use safety, eyes. Place them right after R13, leaving 6 stitches space between them.

Tusks:

Using white yarn or embroidery thread, sew the tusks on the sides of the bottom of the trunk. Go through one stitch several times to create ball kind shape to indicate small growing tusks here.

Mouth:

Two rows below the trunk, using black yarn or embroidery thread, embroider the mouth, stitching through three vertical stitches. Then curve them with diagonal stitch both sides, to make it smiley effect.

Feet/Arms toenails:

I made three on each arm and leg (but you can make it up to 5 as it is that many elephant can have ☺

Using white yarn or embroidery thread, sew the toeanails same way as you did with the tusks, leaving 2 stitches space between each. Start the stitch at the bottom of the leg or arm and sew over the edge ending in the first stitch above (the edge). Tie off at the end and hide thread inside the arm or leg.

At the end if you wish to make hair or two at the top of Ellas head. Cut two or three strings of yarn, 5-6 cm long. Using crochet hook (try some smaller size so you don’t make big gap on the stitch) pull it through one stitch at top of the head, hook the yarn folded at half, pull out through the stitch. Pull just enough to create a small loop you will use to yarn over and pull the rest of the strings through. Make two or three hars like that, cut them to the length you find likable.

And your Ella the elephant or her boy friend are done.

Thank you for trying this pattern out, and make sure you show us your finished dolls.

Pass these pattern to your friends. Make Ellas or her boyfriend for people you love, but please do not sell them or try to make profit out of them.

Allow me, as their designer, to enjoy the joy giving them for free and available for public use. At the end it is not the money that make people happy, but us being kind and respectful to each other.

If you will encounter any problems during your Ella amigurumi work, with the pattern or work itself, let me know, feel free to contact me. Will be glad to help you.AmigurumiBB - 02