Posted on 59 Comments

Oopsie Doll

Little LalaOopsie is finished!

Was fun making this little one and hope you will have as much fun making her, as well as you daughters playing with her. Possibilities are endless. Specially when it comes making hair or dress. Looking forward to hear how about your ideas!

Here is the one I made (this is just the first one…many more will follow 🙂 )

Think we can start with the pattern right away. There is a lot of work to do!oopsie

Abbreviation, US terms:

Sc         Single crochet

Dc         Double crochet

Inc         2 sc in one stitch

Sl.St.         Slip stitch

Dec.         decrease, invisible decrease or 2 stitches together

Ch         Chain

Blo         back loops only

Flo         front loops only

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

felt:          black (for eye lashes and under the button placement)

pink (cheeks)

Black embroidery thread for designing the lips

Two 7 mm buttons

Embroidery and darning needles for sewing up the parts and designing the face

Wire (for legs and arms – to make them flexible and mobile)

P.T.F.E. thread seal tape to secure the wire ends

Stuffing of your choice for the head and body

Finished size of this doll is 23 cm (9 inches)

Gauge per 1 inch (2,5 cm): 9stx8rows

Head

In skin color of your choice:

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R19 sc66 sts

R20 *Dec1, sc9* x6 (60 sts)

R21 *Dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R22 *Dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R23 *Dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R24 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R25 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R26 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R27 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head. Stuff it nice and firm.

R28 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Finish stuffing.

Body

Working on the panties. Choose the color you want panties to be.

R1 sc6 in magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R9 sc36 sts

Change color to one you are using for skin.

R10 sc36 sts

R11 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R12 sc30 sts

R13 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 sc24 sts

R15 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R16 sc18 sts

At this point begin stuffing the body

R17 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head.

Finish stuffing the body

Legs (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2  Inc4 (8 sts)

R3-32 sc30  8sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing

Arms (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3-R4 sc6 sts

R5 ch3, sl.st2 (to this chain you have just made – we are making thumb here), *sc2, inc1* x2 (8 sts)

R6-R25 sc8 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arm to the body later

Now take the legs and hands and wire you have prepared.

Measure the length from one end to another (for leg and arm) and cut wire in same length.

Now use a little bit of stuffing, wrap it tightly on the top of each side of the wire. You can tighten it with some thread if it will be easier for you, take the seal tape and start wrapping it around ends, through the middle, towards the other end, until you have this nice looking, safe piece, with both ends closed and secured.

Here is the photo of materials used in my Oopsie doll and how this “stick” looks like before put into arm or leg.

wire sticksfinished stick

As you finish all four of the sticks place them inside the limbs.

Make another one short though, about 5 cm  ( 2 inches) long. This one make little bit thicker (If the wire is narrow as mine, fold it twice and twist it a little before wrapping it and making it safe. This piece we will use for head-body connection so the head doest wobble around.

Now you can start sewing the body parts together.

Start with head and body first.

Place the “stick” (wire) in the middle of both parts and sew the head and body nicely through all of 12 stitches. Add some stuffing if needed.

Legs:

Sew the legs on the bottom of the body, starting at R2-R6 at each side.

Safety pin them, check them twice and sew them nicely.

Arms:

Place arms on the sides of the body. Place them second row below from where the head and body are sewed together. Sew them through two rows, nicely. Be aware to place the thumb pointing front.

Lala

we can start working on hair

Hair

In color of your choice

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R15 sc66 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head.

 Ringlets

I have done mine in pair of two bunches, but then sewed them all together to look as made in one piece.

You can do the hair many different ways. You can make ringlets longer or shorter. You can make them thicker or thinner. You can make them less or more in numbers.

Start working, make few, place it on the head and see if you like them to be that way. Play and have fun. It really is fun! 😀

I will give you directions n how I did the ringlets. Will give you the instructions on two bunches with 5 ringlets each and you decide if you will make them looking as one or will sew them as two pony tails on each side of the head.

I made each different size. Some are the same, some are not. Was making the chains from 45-50 stitches.

In instructions will say 45 for each ringlet, but you increase or decrease as much as you like it.

Ch 47

Starting at the third stitch from the hook, stitch 3dc, repeat this for each stitch on this chain. (3dc in one st)

Reaching the end chain 47 again and repeat 3dc in each st.

This way make all 5 ringlets. Tie off and leave long end for sewing them on the head later.

Make two of such ringlets bunches.

Bangs

I did almost the same way. Didn’t have the same shade of purple that’s why these are little bit darker. Use same color yarn for the bangs.

For the bangs I also started with chain

Ch23

Sl.st.22

Make 3 more the same way

Instead of crocheting the bangs, you can just sew on few bangs on top of the head when hair will be done (before placing the bow). It is easier and also gives very nice effect. Oopsie1

Shoes

Starting with sole base (chose the color)

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3sc in one st, continue working on the other side of the chain, sc5, 2sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 inc1, sc5, inc3, sc5 inc2 (22 sts)

Change color in one you like shoes to be.

R3-R4 sc22 sts

R5 sc5, dec3, sc8 (16 sts)

R6 sc5, dec4, sc5 (14 sts)

R7 sc6, ch1 turn backwards and stitch 12 sts

(from this point on we will be working the rows, not continuous rounds)

R8-R13 sc12 sts

Change color (or use this one you have been working with) and single crochet around the edges .

Wave in the shoe laces with needle and thread of your choice.

I made chain and used it as shoe lace, but you can use a piece of yarn or thin bow.

You can make boots higher if you like.

Or, what can be done is to stitch the socks using the back loops only on the boots (making the sock or just nice lace effect coming out of the boots). Giving you just few ideas you can try to play with.

Dress!

Uf! This can be done 1001 way, trust me!

It was challenging to make it in one piece without buttons, zippers…and easy enough for girls that will play with the doll be able to take it off and change (if you will make a several 😉 ).

Dress is not done in continuous rounds. So after each row, ch1 or ch2, depending if you are starting with single crochet od double one. Finishing the row, slip stitch the last stitch to the first chain you started.

I have started my dress with chain of 36 stitches. Before closing the chain into circle, check if it fits to your doll (so you can add or decrease stitch or two).

Here we go:

Dress

Use color of your choice for the base dress color

Upper part

Ch 36, sl.st. to close the chain into a ring

R1 sc36

R2 sc36

R3 dc36

R4 dc36

R5 dc36

R6 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Using long chain (you made out of thread, yarn) in color of your choice, or string, or bow, wave in between the R5-R6 starting in front of the dress, going allthe way around and finishing in front right before you started. This we will use to close the dress after it is put on the doll, to give her nice fitting effect 😉

Turn the dress upside down, to where we have started with the chain row. We are making the skirt now. Slip stitch to any stitch and start with our first row making the bottom of the dress.

I used yellow yarn here (that was later decorated with green) to make belt effect on this dress. You can change the color or just continue with the same one you have worked the top with.

Skirt:

R1  sc36 blo

R2 sc36 blo

Change color (here I switched from yellow to pink again)

R3 2dc in one st FLO all the way around

R4 dc in each st

R5 2dc in each st

R6 dc in each st

R7 2dc in each st

Change color (for this row I used turquoise color)

R8 sc in each st

Change color (for the final row I used yellow)

R9 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Under skirt

With thinner white yarn

Slip stitch at one of the back loops on R3 of the dress’s bottom.

R1 sc all the way around

R2 2dc in each st

R3 dc each st

R4 2dc in each st

R5 dc each st

R6 2dc in each st

Change color (I used green here)

R7 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st* repeat till the end of this row.

Shoulder sleeves

Put the dress on the doll. Tighten the upper part with the bow or string you waved in, and mark best place where the strings for the shoulder sleeves would go best. This is how I did it.

Mark all four points. Two in front and two on the back, take the dress off the doll and start making the shoulder strings in the same color as the dress was made.

R1 Sl.st. at the front of the dress. Ch10, sl.st at the back (of the same shoulder side)

Change color (first one I did was pink, and now was switching to turquoise)

R2 sc10 st

Change color (mine is yellow here)

R3 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat till end

Tie off sew and hide ends nicely

In addition there is bow to make on the belt, and if you like you can add one row of zig-zag motif.

Choose what will you use for the belt. Starting at front, wave in the string or bow or whatever you have chosen for this.

In one of the rows where you have front loops visible slip stitch the yarn in color of your choice and make this motif:

*Ch2, skip one stitch, sl.st* all the way around.

Tie off, hide the ends.

oopsieb&w

Bow

Ch18

R1 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 4sl.st. 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch2, turn

R2-4 repeat the pattern from R1

When finished with R4, sc all the way around the bow.

Tie off, hide the end.

Bow middle

Ch8 (one color)

R1 sc7 (second color)

R2 *ch2, skip one, sl.st1* repeat for all the stitches (third color)

Tie or sew this piece at the middle of the bow, and sew the bow nicely on top of the head.

Finishing:

Hair:

Place the hair “cap” on, Position it the way you like it the best. Safety pin it and sew it all around.

Now place the ringlets the way you want them to be. Safety pin them and sew them so they stay at place where you wanted them to be.

If you are using bangs with slip stitched chains, the way I made my Oopsie doll, place it on the very top of the head, safety pin each bang and sew one by one, little by little on the front of the head.

At the end sew on the bow, One in the middle, on top of the head, or two at sides, depending how you will make your ringlets to be.

Eyes:

Use little bit of black felt. Place the buttons you will use of eyes on the felt, draw the outline and cut out two black felt pieces you will put under the buttons.

We will glue them first. Buttons on the felt and felt on the head, so once sewed on will stay nice and firm.

For eye lashes cut black felt, making kind of V shape pattern (as for two lashes to stick on the eye sides).

Safety pin the eyes and using black thread sew them on the head.

With embroidery needle and black thread, sew the  smiling mouth.

Using pink felt, cut two circles of about 1cm big and glue them on the face. I used regular all purpose crystal glue.

If you don’t have the felt for eyes or cheeks. Embroider the eyelashes on each side of the eye. Use little bit of powder blush for the cheeks.

Was a little work to do for this doll but at the end it’s al worth it. Hope you enjoyed making Oopsie and most of all hope your kids will enjoy playing with one! 😀

Looking forward to hear all you comments, suggestions, replies. Let me know how it goes! Send me some photos of finished doll! Looking forward hearing from you and seeing the photos.

Wish you all the best of luck and lots of fun making these dolls.

If you will come up with some special and new ideas, let me know so we will publish them on the blog!

lalaO

‘till next time wishing you lots of fun and joy!

p.s.

On the left side of the home page I have added the box with several patterns in .pdf  for your easier download and work.

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Posted on 88 Comments

Sleeping buddies, lavender stuffed doll

This week was inspired by my first doll I ever got (had). Was a plush, red, patch doll think is called in English, with rubber face. Was one of those you take for sleeping. Soft and cuddly. This week remembered that doll again, and said, why not making one. In my yarn stash had this ball of very old white cotton yarn. Even the way it looked you could say  was very old. That was inspiring as well. “Vintage” looking doll, old yarn to go with..could not be better.

Added few details at the end and came up with this little one. Rice stuffed dolls - 11

Little sleeping buddy doll in cow pijama. Topic of this post is sleeping buddies stuffed with rice/lavender. This doll is stuffed with rice and fiber fill  stuffing. As I was stuffing the doll, was stuffing her in layers, mixing rice and fiber fill together. Only the head is stuffed with fiber stuffing all the way (but because had this head made some time ago).

The first doll was done! Now I had to try out the pattern and make new doll. Used tiny bits of different colors, to match the yarn weight and gauge. Basically left over yarns I found, but were the same producer. In second try I got the pattern done completely and finished doll looking like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 10

Difference at this one is the filling. This doll is mainly stuffed with rice. Fiberfill is added on top of each part for easier closing and sewing the parts later. I must say that this dolls fills great when held in hands, and I like her the most. It is heavy, when you squeeze her you can feel the rice grains inside and is fun to touch and play with.  Head I stuffed with fiberfill at this one as well. To be honest, wasn’t in the mood to experiment with rice. 🙂

While working on the second doll, this idea of stuffing the doll with lavender crossed my mind. While having breaks, took a trip to wardrobe in search of the lavender bags hiding there. Picked up fw, took the lavender out and now had to make one more doll to try this out! Lavender stuffed doll!

Rice stuffed dolls - 09

That is why the third doll is all flowery looking 😀 She is lavender one!

Stuffing it just with lavender doesn’t work. I was using last years lavender, and was pretty dry and light weight. You can’t really “stuff” the doll. Furthermore, lavender breaks and makes dust. To avoid this breaking of lavender and dusting, again used the layers stuffing method. Little bit of stuffing, little bit of lavender and at the end you get this beautifully nice smelling soft doll, what makes ideal sleeping buddy.

Here are all three of the dolls made together 🙂

Rice stuffed dolls - 07

Think we can start with the pattern. I am giving you the basic pattern, no details on the flowers or cow pijames.

Even the colors I didn’t mention in the pattern, so you can work based on own wishes or yarn availabilities. Important is to keep the yarn weight same or very similar.

Here is the Rice/Lavender stuffed Doll pattern:

Abbreviations (US terms):

Sc: Single crochet

St: Stitch

Inv.dc: Invisible decrease

Ch: chain

Materials used:

5ply or sports weight yarn in different colors

2mm crochet hook

black embroidery thread

embroidery needle

4mm round beads for eyes (if you are making the doll for babies, use safety eyes or sew the eyes on the face. do not use beads!)

Head

R1: Sc6 n magic ring (6)

R2: 2sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24)

R5: *2c in one st, sc3* x6 (30)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36)

R7-R10: sc36

R11: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42)

R12: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48)

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54)

R14-R16: sc54

R17: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x6 (48)

R18: sc48

R19: *inv.dec1, sc4* x8 (40)

R20: *inv.dec.1, sc2* x10 (30)

R21: *inv.dec.1, sc1* x10 (20)

R22:  inv.dec. x 8, sc4 (12)

Tie off. Stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

Ch12

R1: starting from the secong ch from hook, sc10, 3sc in one st (turn around),  sc9, 2sc in one st.

R2: 2sc in ne st, sc9, *2sc in one st* x3, sc9, *2sc in one st* x2 (30)

R3: sc1, 2sc in one st, sc10, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc10, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st. (36)

R4: sc2,  2sc in one st, sc11, *2sc in one st, sc2* x2, 2sc in one st, sc 11, 2sc in one st, sc2, 2sc in one st. (42)

R5-R14: sc42

R15: sc2, inv.dec.1, sc11, *inv.dec.1, sc2* x2, inv.dec1, sc11, inv.dec.1, sc2, inv.dec.1 (36)

R16: sc36

R17: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc10, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc10, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (30)

R18: sc30

R19: inv.dec.1, sc9, inv.dec. x3, sc9, inv.dec. x2 (24)

R20: sc24

R21: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc4, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc4, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (18)

R22-R23: sc18

R24: inv.dec.1, sc3, inv.dec. x3, sc3, inv.dec. x2 (12)

R25:  sc12

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body with the head. Stuff the body well.

Legs  (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3:  sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st (24)

R4- R6: sc24

R7: *inv.dec.1, sc10* x2 (22)

R8-R9: sc22

R10: *inv.dec.1, sc9* (20)

R11-R12: sc20

R13: *inv.dec.1, sc8* x2(18)

R14-R15: sc18

Stuff the leg. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 8 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the leg to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Arms (x2)

Ch6

R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3-R5: sc18

R6: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x2(16)

R7-R8: sc16

R9: *inv.dec.1, sc6* x2(14)

R10-R11: sc14

R12: *inv.dec1, sc5* x2(12)

R13-R14): sc12

Stuff the arm. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 5 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the arm to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Hood

Ch51

R1-R18: sc50

Fold piece in the half, and stitch across side, through both stitches, making 25 st along the way.

Cut the thread and tie off at the end.

Ch60, and with needle pass and pull trough stitches on the bottom of hood (as shown on the photo).

Cut off the access yarn, hide the ends, flip the hood inside out and is ready to be placed on dolls head.

I like to fold out one row in the front of the hood. Find it nice looking on dolls head.

Here is how your crocheted piece for hood will look like: Rice stuffed dolls - 01

Now fold it in two like this and stitch 25sc through both sides (two stitches at same time):Rice stuffed dolls - 02Now ch60, yarn over embroidery needle and sew through the stitches at the bottom of the hood, pulling the chain you crocheted thorugh those stitches:

Rice stuffed dolls - 04

At the end the hood will look like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 05Rice stuffed dolls - 06

Assembling the parts together:

Sew he body and the head together.

Decide where the front/back will be so can start positioning and sewing the legs. Sew legs between the 4th and 5th row counting from the bottom (first, starting row). Leave one stitch between each leg.

Place arms on the sides of the body. Sew them nicely through 5 stitches we have made while finishing the arms.

Designing the face: 

Place the eyes, between between rows, 11-12. Leave 5 stitches between them

Embroider the smiling mouth. Without mouth doll looks great as well.

For any details on the face, or on the body, free your mind and play! 😀

At the end place the hood on doll’s head and your sleeping buddy is done!

Hope you enjoyed reading this and will enjoy making the doll! Make as many as you wish for your family and friends. Let me know what you did for stuffing, how the work went and what was your experience with the pattern.

If you will encounter any mistakes done, let me know, and will correct them immediately.

Thank you all for your time spent reading my post!Rice stuffed dolls - 08

P.S.

I have forgotten to mention few details.

Finished size of the doll is 16 (hight) x 8 (width) cm / 6 x 3,5 inches  (if done with sport weight yarn and 2mm hook, as I did)

The work is done in continuous round (at least it is how I did it, you do it the way you like and prefer).

After each row is finished, continue without slip stitching or chain one. Mark the beginning of each row  for easier counting and pattern following.

Posted on 9 Comments

Bee Girl

Since I started this blog, just few months ago, encountered so many great bloggers that I would like to thank for all their effort and work done blogging. For their kindness to share with us their thoughts on some ordinary and non so ordinary issues, to share their knowledge trying to teach us new things, or just for being here so kind and so nice as they are and make this blogging space be a nice, warm and happy place for all of us that follow them.

One among these great bloggers I encountered is Tales Of Twisted Fibers one. Name suits her perfectly! If you haven’t been there yet, I warmly recommend you to go and check her out. Check and see why “twisted” and why we love her so much.

About two weeks ago she came up with this Bee girl. Ami doll that I really liked. Was thrilled when she posted the pattern for that doll as well. Could not resist giving her a try and  to make one Bee doll just for me 😉

Here is the link of her Bee Girl! Check her out before you proceed!

Free Bee Girl Amigurumi Pattern

Making the doll was so much fun. Pattern is easy to follow. Outcome, the finished doll looks great! I love it and am sure all of you will!

So hurry, hurry and make one Bee Girl as well! 😀

Here is my Bee Girl made out of pattern designed and published by Tales Of Twisted Fibers. Thank you ToTF for this wonderful pattern and your kindness and generosity to share it with us! DSC01373 DSC01375 DSC01378

 

Posted on 50 Comments

Ella the elephant and her boy friend

 

Few weeks ago I have introduced you my Ella the elephant , and promised how soon will write the pattern (readable one 😉 as well. Meantime got several mails, asking me if this pattern is available. So to all who asked, yes, and here it is. While working on the pattern made the second elephant. Made few changes on the boy one. His legs and arms are slightly longer than Ella’s. In this pattern I have wrote down both options. For making a boy (in my case it is grey elephant) all you will have to do is add few more rows on arms and legs as indicated in the pattern. You will see, it is all written and easy to follow.AmigurumiBB - 21

Abbreviations:

Ch: chain

St: Stitch

Sc: Single crochet

Inv.dec.: Invisible decrease

 

Materials used:

2mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in light blue or grey color

black embroidery thread for eyes and mount

embroidery needle for sewing up the parts and details

white yarn for tusks and toenails

for stuffing I used polyester fiberfil

 

You will work in continuous rounds. Make sure to mark the first stitch, but only for the easier row count. You will not be working any slip stitches at the end of each row, or any ch1. As you finish, just continue working the next round as indicated in the pattern. When finishing the piece, after making last single crochet, slip stitch to the following stitch and tie off pulling the thread out of the stitch.

For those that wish to make identical size doll to these that I have made, here is the gauge used:

1×1 cm:  4 rows x 3 stitches

1×1 inch: 9 rows x 8 stitches

 

And we are ready to get started 🙂

Here is the Ella the elephant pattern.

Head

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in one st  x6 (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *2sc in one st, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9-R12:  sc48

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

If you work with safety eyes, place them here leaving 6 stitches space between each one.

R14: *2sc in ne st, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R15-R16: sc60

R17: *Inv.dec, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R18: *Inv.dec., sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19: *Inv.dec., sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R20: *Inv.dec., sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R21: *Inv.dec., sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R22: *Inv.dec., sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R23: *Inv.dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off, stuff the head firmly.

Ears

Ch11

R1: sc9, 3sc in one st (last one on the chain), sc8, 2sc in one st. (22 sts)

R2: *2sc in one st, sc1* x10 (33 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc2* x10 (44 sts)

R4-R8: sc44

R9: *Inv.dec., sc2* x10 (33 sts)

R10: sc33

R11: *In.dec., sc1* x10 (22 sts)

R12: sc22

R13: Inv.dec x11

Tie off and leave long end for swing the ears on the head later.

Nose

R1: sc5 in magic ring (5 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st x5 (10 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4: sc15 in the outer loop  (15 sts)

R5: sc15 (both loops) (15 sts)

R6: Inv.dec.3, sc9 (12 sts)

R7-R16: sc12

R17: sc3, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4 15 sts)

R18: sc15

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the nose on the head later.

Body

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in one st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *2sc in one st, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9-R18: sc48 (48 sts)

R19: *Inv.dec., sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R20: sc42

R21: *Inv.dec., sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R22: sc36

R23: *Inv.dec., sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R24: sc30

R25: *Inv.dec., sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R26: sc24

R27: *Inv.dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R28: sc18

Tie off and leave long end to sew the body with the head later. Stuff the body well.

Legs

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *2sc in ne st, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: sc24 in the outer loop only (24 sts)

R6-R10: sc24

R11: *Inv dec., sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R12-R13: sc18

R14: *Inv.dec., sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R15-16: sc12

(if you wish to make legs longer as they are made at grey elephant, add 3 more rows)

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the legs later. Stuff only the wide, bottom part of the legs with the stuffing.

 

Arms

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2: 2sc in each st all around (12 sts)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: sc18 in the outer loop only

R5-R8: sc18 (for grey elephant arms add one more row)

R9: *Inv.dec., sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R15: sc12 (12 sts)

For grey elephant kind of arms, add 4 more rows.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arms later.

Stuff only the wide lower part of the arms with the stuffing.

Tail

Ch10

Tie off. Make a simple knot at the end. You can add few more threads in the last loop before fastening to give end of the tail have few hairs (and sew all as kind of little tassel), but it is optional.

Assembling the parts

AmigurumiBB - 01

Sew body and head first.

You will have 18 stitches to connect at both sides, so it should be pretty easy and give you nice clean connection. Start sewing, connecting end stitch of the head (where you tied off ) with end stitch of the body (where your thread for sewing begins), facing each other. Before finishing the sewing, add some more stuffing to the head and/or body so they connect nice and fill all empty spaces there might be between head and the body.

Now before sewing the rest look at your elephant carefully.

Turn her around looking at the head, until you notice the points where you started to make decreases. Pick one you like the best, as this peak will be the one onto which we will sew on the nose. Safe place the nose, with bobbin pins and sew it on the head. Sew through both loops of each stitch, for every stitch around nose. It is little picky work, but be patient so it will look nice later.

Arms you will sew on sides of the body. Take nose as the center point. Leave 5 stitches between each arm (looking from front side). Position the arms, safe them with pins and sew them nicely.

Sewing the legs.

Turn the Ella upside down.

Count 7 rows from the middle towards the front of the belly. You will be sewing the legs between row 7 and 8.  Take the bottom ring as your center point to position the legs evenly. Leave 3 stitches between legs, safety pin the legs on the body and sew them nicely.

Ears:  Position the ears evenly on the sides of the head. Place the ears starting R8 downwards, till R13. Sew them nicely, tie off, hide the ends.

Sew the tail between row 7 and 8 (counting from the starting ring of the body) centering it at the back side of the body.

Now you Ella is sewed completely.

Eyes:

Sew on the eyes one row above the nose level, leaving 6 stitches between each eye.

Sew them through only one stitch.

If you would like to use safety, eyes. Place them right after R13, leaving 6 stitches space between them.

Tusks:

Using white yarn or embroidery thread, sew the tusks on the sides of the bottom of the trunk. Go through one stitch several times to create ball kind shape to indicate small growing tusks here.

Mouth:

Two rows below the trunk, using black yarn or embroidery thread, embroider the mouth, stitching through three vertical stitches. Then curve them with diagonal stitch both sides, to make it smiley effect.

Feet/Arms toenails:

I made three on each arm and leg (but you can make it up to 5 as it is that many elephant can have ☺

Using white yarn or embroidery thread, sew the toeanails same way as you did with the tusks, leaving 2 stitches space between each. Start the stitch at the bottom of the leg or arm and sew over the edge ending in the first stitch above (the edge). Tie off at the end and hide thread inside the arm or leg.

At the end if you wish to make hair or two at the top of Ellas head. Cut two or three strings of yarn, 5-6 cm long. Using crochet hook (try some smaller size so you don’t make big gap on the stitch) pull it through one stitch at top of the head, hook the yarn folded at half, pull out through the stitch. Pull just enough to create a small loop you will use to yarn over and pull the rest of the strings through. Make two or three hars like that, cut them to the length you find likable.

And your Ella the elephant or her boy friend are done.

Thank you for trying this pattern out, and make sure you show us your finished dolls.

Pass these pattern to your friends. Make Ellas or her boyfriend for people you love, but please do not sell them or try to make profit out of them.

Allow me, as their designer, to enjoy the joy giving them for free and available for public use. At the end it is not the money that make people happy, but us being kind and respectful to each other.

If you will encounter any problems during your Ella amigurumi work, with the pattern or work itself, let me know, feel free to contact me. Will be glad to help you.AmigurumiBB - 02

 

 

Posted on 291 Comments

BB Dolls

BBDolls - 3This week wanted to talk about amigurumi doll’s hair making. If you ask me, it is the hardest part of finishing the doll and making her look the way we imagine. At least it is for me.

Tried so many different versions of hairs to be done on the doll, and hardly ever was satisfied with the final outcome. Those tapestry way, with wool and pulling out hair by hair; works fine I guess. Eats a lot of wool, but what you can do with it is either freaking out looking doll or to make it look “decent” is pony-tail(s) or braids.

Then there is a wig making. Sorry to say, but for that am complete idiot. Tried it several times, but each and every doll looked so sad with this helmet looking wig on.

Crocheting “discs” as I call them (small round pieces) and placing one or two on top of the head, as you can see at some of my doll photos in the gallery, worked fine. Liked the results. Making tassels to go with them or braids, and placing them on sides or top of the head….. yes, many possibilities and are easy to make, and at the end doll looks nice. Cute and “dolly”.

I wanted more out of hair! That kept me busy thinking and trying.

I am sure I didn’t invent anything new; specially to those that are in amigurumi world for quite some time, but it is new to me.

For today I made one new pattern that I called BB Dolls. Made few different hair styles so you can see the possibilities that can be done. Encourage all of you to give it a try and play with it for a while. Specially to ones that love dolls as much as I do. Hair making this way is fun! Really is! 😉

The pattern for entire doll I tried to make simplest possible. For some problem might be making legs and body in one peace, but if so, just make two legs and body separated, counting the stitches used in the pattern.

For any questions you might have, I am here, and will be glad to help you.

So here we go with the BB Doll pattern

Abbreviations:

Sc: Single crochet

ch: Chain

St: Stitch

inv.dec: invisible decrease

Materials you will need:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

4,5 mm round, black, wooden beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

needle for sewing up the body parts together

embroidery thread if you will want to sew on the eyelashes to the doll’s eyes

BBDolls - 6HEAD

CH 6

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 4. 3 2sc in last st. Turn Continue your work stitching around the other side,  Sc 4, 2sc in last st.   (12 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R3: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

R4: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R5: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R6-10: Sc 36

If you are using safety eyes, place them between row 10 and 11, leaving 6 stitches between them.

R11: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 12 times (48 sts)

R12: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (54 sts)

R13-R17: Sc 54

R18: *Sc 7, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (48 sts)

R19: *Sc 6, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (42 sts)

R20: *Sc 5, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R21: *Sc 4, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R22: *Sc 3, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R23: *Sc 2, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R24: *Sc 1, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (12 sts)

Fasten off and stuff head firmly. Stuff little by little and form so you shape the head nicely.

HAIR

R1: stitch 4sc in magic ring ch1 turn around

(Do not close the ring, chain one and continue stitching backwards, as you would with the flat peace. We will be crocheting the rows here. Every row finish with the chain1, turn around,  and continue stitching in the second stitch from the hook.)

R2: 2sc in each st (8 sts) ch1 turn around

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times. (12sts) ch1 turn around

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (24 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (28 sts)

R8-13: Sc 28

R14: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 8 times (36 sts)

R15: Sc 36

Ch1 and begin single crochet stitching to the side, toward the top of the head, where magic ring and first row is started.

Reaching the magic ring we will start making bangs.

Slip stitch 1 in the magic ring, chain 10, and return back slip stitching 9 at each stitch on the chain.

Slip stitch again to the magic ring, ch 10, return back slip stitching to 9 stitches on the chain, slip stitch to the magic ring, and repeat 3 more times, or until you create desired number of the bangs. (in my case there are 5).

Finishing last peace of hair, single crochet to the working side of the hair, and continue sc into each last row stitch (14 sts).

Reaching the end, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Here are few samples of what you can do. Some you could see at presentations photo on the start of this post. Would have been to much if I tried to write down each and every pattern for different hair styles I’ve done; but as I said, if you will need any help, feel free to contact me and ask. Will be glad to help you.

Hair we are making in this pattern is the one shown on the first photo published here; look at the last doll in the line. One with light brown hair (yellow and blue dress).

BBDolls - 7

BBDolls - 2BBDolls - 1

LEGS & BODY

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Leg2:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-25: 18 sc

R26: *Inv.dec.1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27-29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body as firm as you can.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

ARMS X2

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2-6: 6 sc

Change color

R7-R9: 6sc

Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.

DRESS

R1: 18 Sc in magic ring (18) (don’t close the ring completely)

R2-R3: 18 sc

R4: *2sc in one st, sc next 2* x6 (24)

R5-R6: 24 sc

R7: *2sc in one st, sc next 3sts* x6 (30)

R8-R9: 30 sc

R10: *2sc in one st, sc next 4 sts* x6 (36)

R11: 36 sc

Change color

R12: *ch3, sc in next st* repeat all around

Tie off and hide ends.

Put the dress over the body and sew the body on the head.

Sew on the hair, and finally place and sew the arms (I find it best if you leave 6 stitches looking in front of the dress, between each arm). I also suggest to sew the arms on the dress only. Not only it is easier, but gives you space to sew and hide ends nicely.

And you own BB Doll is done.

I hope you have enjoyed making it, and the hair you have learned will open up a whole new possibilities. Experiment and try different styles. Share what you have learned and teach us something new as well.

Looking forward to see and hear you experiences in making BB Doll. Thank you for staying with me and reading this post. Thank you for following and all kind and sweet comments you always leave behind. Thank you 🙂

BBDolls - 6

Posted on 27 Comments

Karla’s Hats

Since published Little Karla Girl pattern, many times have been asked about different hat patterns for the little Karla. Blame it on me for not posting more back then, but when I crochet, I crochet without any pattern and usually don’t write what I am dong. So I end up repeating same doll and same pattern several times before it “hits” me that I could write it down for some future use. 🙂

Since I started with this blog, I do try to write down all I do. Even first time doing it. Now need time writing it all nice and readable 😀 Let us get back to what we have started here; hats for little Karla doll. You all met Karla. Since last time you saw her, her hair grew a little, but still not enough to take the hat off 😀 Will show you, her recent photos, but please, if you will must laugh, turn your head around and laugh quietly. We really did our best to comb and make nice hair style for photo shooting today.

So here comes Karla:

Karla Hats - 04🙂 we said no laughing loud!!!!

Today, tried to make up few hats together with patterns, so all of you that asked for something different to put on Karla’s head, now have few options to choose from.

Here are hats I have made today.

Karla Hats - 26These are really basic models and very, very simple to make. You can use them to make so many different styles. Once you’ll start and let your imagination lead you, you will see how it becomes never-ending story (when it comes to creating something new 🙂 So do not hesitate, take your little Karla, some yarn and needle and start creating new hats for this little one! Let’s continue with the hat patterns!

Starting with little mint green hat.

Karla Hats - 06

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: *slip stitch, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slip stitch*  repeat all the way around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Lilac (purple) hat

Karla Hats - 16

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: 2Hdc in each st around, front loop only (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Pastel Yellow Hat

Karla Hats - 11

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16: 2hdc in each st around (84)

Round 17: Hdc in each st around (84)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Elf green HatKarla Hats - 18

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2-3: sc in each st around (6)

Round 4: *2 sc, sc in next st* repeat 3 times (9)

Round 5-6: sc in each st around (9)

Round 7: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (12)

Round 8-9: sc in each st around (12)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 1 st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 11-12: sc in each st around (18)

Round 13: *2 sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 14-15: sc in each st around (24)

Round 16: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 17.18: Sc in each st around (30)

Round 19: *2sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 20: sc in each st around (36)

Round 21: * 2sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 22: Sc in each sc around (42)

Round 23: *2sc, sc in next6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 24: sc in each st around (48)

Round 25: *2sc, sc in next 7st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 26: *2sc, sc in next8 sc*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 27-28: sc in each st around (60)

Round 29: *inv.dec., sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (52)

Round 30: *inv.dec., sc in next 7 st, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 31: *in.dec., sc in next 6 st, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 32: reverse single crochet around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

For those that don’t know how to make reverse single crochet stitch, here is little tutorial. If I could learn from this, so will you!http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-reverse-single-crochet-stitch.html

And final one is Teddy Bear hatKarla Hats - 22Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 st*, repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 st*, repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10: *2 sc, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 – 12: Sc in each st around (60)

Round 13: *Inv dec, sc in next 8 st*, repeat 6 times (54)

Round 14: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 st*, repeat 6 times (48)

Round 15: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 st*, repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16-17: Sc in each st around (42)

Round 18: Hdc in each sc around (42)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Nose

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-5: sc in each st around (18)

fasten of and leave long end for sewing the nose to the hat.

Ears

Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4-6: sc each st around (18)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing ears to the hat.

Sew nose and ears to the hat. Glue some black cloth pieces on the top of the nose and in place of eyes (or sew them on with black thread).

This way you can make polar bear, duck, panda, koala, frog….so many different animal hats.

The tiny flower used on the hats you can make as follows:

Round 1: sc5 in magic circle

switch color if you wish to make two color flower

Round 2: *slip stitch to next st, ch2, hdc in same st, ch2* repeat 5 times

fasten off, leave long end for sewing the flower to the head.

Karla Hats - 12If you have any idea of new hat pattern you would like to see, or have a pattern you would like to share with us, let me know! Send me e-mail, or post a comment!

Till next time… happy hats making 😉

Posted on 27 Comments

Talking Angela Free Amigurumi Pattern

 

First heard of Angela the cat when my friend told me how it is adored by her daughter Sara, and asked me to make that cat as amigurumi doll for her.

For all of you that don’t know who is that Angela, here is a picture of this adorably cute cat.angela_bg_8bit

Took me a few days, maybe more…almost  a month to research about this Angela cat and to figure out how to do that doll.

Encouraged myself this week to finally make it, and here it is what I came up with. My version of Angela the cat.

DSC01053

Even have the pattern done and ready if you would like to try making one. Have to say, that it is working pattern so some mistakes might be found. I did check it in written, but didn’t make time to make second and third Angela cat to be absolutely sure about this pattern. So keep that in mind if you decide making Angela.

For any details or further instructions please, feel free to ask. I do apologize for any mistakes or misunderstandings caused by my english, but am here to clear those as well 🙂

So here is the pattern! Hope you will enjoy making Angela!

Abreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

st: stitch

inv.dec.: invisible decrease

Materials:

2.00 mm crochet hook

white color cotton yarn for the cat (sport wight)

mohair or any other fuzzy yarn for the tail

embroidery thread in blue, black and white color

pink yarn for nose and mouth

embroidery needle for sewing the parts together and designing the face

Head

 

Row 1:             Chain 6

Row 2:             starting second stitch from the hook sc4, 3sc in next sc, turn around as we are making stitches around        the chain, sc3, 2sc in next sc (12)

Row 3:              *2sc in one st, sc1*  x6 (18)

Row 4:             *2sc in one st, sc2*  x6 (24)

Row 5:             *2sc in one st, sc3* x6 (30)

Row 6:             *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36)

Row 7:                *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42)

Row 8-11:            sc 42

Row 12:             *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48)

Row 13:             *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54)

Row 14:             *2sc in one st, sc8* x6 (60)

Row 15-20:            sc 60

Row 21:            *Inv.dec.1, sc8* x6 (54)

Row 22:             *Inv.dec.1, sc7* x6 (48)

Row 23:             *Inv dec.1, sc 6* x6 (42)

Row 24:             *Inv.dec.1, sc5* x6 (36)

Row 25:             *Inv.dec.1, sc4* x6 (30)

Row 26:             *Inv.dec.1, sc3* x6 (24)

Row 27:             *Inv.dec.1, sc2* x6 (18)

Tie off and stuff the head firmly.

 

 

Ears (x2)

 

Row 1:             4 sc in magic circle

Row 2:             *2sc in one st, sc1* x2 (6)

Row 3:             *2sc in one st, sc1* x3 (9)

Row 4:             *2sc in one st, sc1* x4 sc1  (13)

Row 5:             *2sc in one st, sc1* x6  sc1(19)

Row 6-9:            sc 19

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the ears later.

 

 

Legs and body

 

Row 1:             sc6 in magic chain

Row 2:             *2sc in one st* x6 (12)

Row 3:                        *2sc in one st, sc1*  x6 (18)

Row 4:                        sc 18

Row 5:             *Inv.dec* x6, sc6 (12)

Row 6:             *Inv.dec* x3, sc 6 (9)

Row 7-11:             sc 9

At this point start stuffing the leg and continue as we move along.

Row 12:             sc2, *2sc in one st.* x2, sc5  (11)

Row 13-14:            sc 11

Row 15:            2sc in one st, sc5, 2sc in one st, sc4  (13)

Row 16-20:            13

Row 21:             2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc2

(16)

Row 22-26:             sc 16

Tie off, finish stuffing the leg and leave long end for sewing later.

 

Leg 2

 

Repeat from Row 1 to 26

After finishing Row 26 DON’T cut off the yarn.

Finish stuffing the leg.

Now take both legs together and put them side by side, toes pointing same direction. Tie both legs together for easier work to continue.

Row 27:             sc5, ch1, sc15, ch1, sc10

 

Starting with second leg, where we didn’t cut the yarn:

Sc5, ch1, continue stitching to next leg starting to stitch on the last stitch you worked on before tying off, sc15 (leave last stitch on this leg unstitched), ch1, leave unstitched 1st (first empty stitch after last one you stitched on this leg) sc10 (32)

Row 28:             sc 32

Pull out the yarn you left for sewing on the first leg made through the gap between the legs so it doesn’t get into your way while crocheting. We will use it later to sew and close this gap.

Row 29:             sc4, 2sc in one st, sc2, 2sc in one st, sc5, 2sc in one st, sc14, 2sc in one st, sc3 (36)

Row 30-34:             sc 36

Row 35:             *inv.dec.* x2, sc8, *inv.dec.* x3, sc16, inv.dec. (30)

Row 36:            inv.dec., sc8, *inv.dec.* x2, sc14, inv.dec. (26)

Row 37:             sc2 in one st, sc4, sc2 in one st, sc5, sc2 in one sc, sc5, sc2 in one sc, sc5, sc2in one st, sc2 (31)

Row 38:             sc2 in one sc, sc5, sc2 in one sc, sc6, sc2 in one sc, sc6, sc2 in one st, sc6, 2sc in on st, sc2 (36)

Row 39-40:             sc36

Row 41:             *inv.dec.1, sc4* x6 (30)

Row 42:             *inv.dec.1, sc3* x6 (24)

Row 43:             *inv.dec.1, sc2* x6 (18)

Row 44-45:             sc 18

Tie off and leave long end for sewing body to the head. Stuff the body well.

 

Arms (x2)

 

Row 1:             6 (magic circle)

Row 2:             2sc in each st all around (12)

Row 3-4:            sc 12

Row 5:             *inv.dec.* x3, sc3 (6)

Row 6-10:             sc 6

Row 11:             *2sc in one st, sc1* x3 (9)

Row12-16:             sc 9

Row 17:             *2sc in one st, sc2* x3 (12)

Row 18-19:             sc 12

Row 20:             sc6, *in.dec.* x3 (9)

Row 21:             sc3, *inv.dec.* x3 (6)

Sew end nicely to close the gap and sew arms on the body

 

Tail

Chain 30

sc1, slip stitch10, sc8, turn around (continue onto the other side of chain), sc8, slip stitch10, sc1  tie off (and hide the end)

Designing the face

Eyes

Embroidery threads:

Sky blue

Black

Tiny bit of white

Cross stitch the eyes with embroidery needle and thread

/X \̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̏ ̑ /X\

XXX ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑XXX

XXX ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑XXX

(X\ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑ ̑(X\

Outline the iris of the eye with two threads of blue embroidery yarn.

On upper black stitch embroider tiny white spark.

Outline the upper side of the eye with black embroidery thread to give it long lash kind effect.

To fill gaps on eyes or eye lashes, you can always use some markers to make tiny corrections.

Nose and mouth

Pink yarn

Sew the nose in between the exes (one row lower from the lowest eye line)

Sew triangle shape nose, across three horizontal stitches wide and the lowest part of vertical lines also three stitches long

From the lowest nose point, sew the mouth line pointing down, additional two stitches, and from there sew two stitches long line to each side to create mouth shape.