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Maya the Bee

“…yes here comes Maya the Bee

with the greatest friends that you’ve ever seen.

yes here comes Maya the Bee

with her friends and story just for you and me…”

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Maya the Bee is character, based on the books written by German author Walderman Bousel and first published back in 1912.

Maya was very popular in ’70s and ’80s through animated TV series. She was my favorite cartoon!

Last year Maya was released again by Studio 100 Media and what a wonderful work they’ve done.

Adventurous little bee who left the hive in order to explore the world.

I created crochet Maya for my nieces fourth birthday. She wished for and asked me to make her one (not just Maya…my niece asked for the whole set of movie characters)  😉

In two weeks time, which I had to investigate Maya’s new look (as well as look of her new friends), examine her shape(s) and develop the pattern) I was able to make just Maya and her friend Willy. They both turned out better than I expected they would (despite to lack of materials while making dolls for my little niece).

“Wow!” – was the only word my niece said after seeing her new dolls. Took both in her arms and since then they became unseparated. They play together, go to kinder garden together, eat together and sleep together.

This week she ordered Flip (which is the grasshopper, Maya’s friend; and hornet (son and father) friend (which I am not sure who he is and which role he plays in this, Maya’s movie). More for me to investigate and work on, but the trouble is worth it! 🙂

Since I had the pattern done, I feel happy to share it with all of you who wish to make Maya and Willy for your little ones. Please remember that both characters are registered and protected by the law and by any means do not make them for sale. Feel free to use this pattern to make Maya and Willy for you family and friends.

In this pattern I have written details on everything I’ve done while working on dolls I made for my niece. New Maya has special kind of hair, and that hair is what makes her character so unique. I tried to take as many photos as possible through all the process of hair making so you can make exactly the same one like I did.

here is collage of some of the photos you will find in the pattern on how to make Maya’s hair:

Maya's hair

Second of some specialties in this pattern are painted eyes. My dolls have their eyes painted. Knowing that even mentioning painting on crocheted dolls for many of you will cause fear I decided to draw stencils, and lead you through step by step; from preparing your materials, coping to painting. I almost 100% positive anyone can make this. If you have possibility to buy any kind of textile paints in white, green and black and have some fine brushes (or can buy some)….go for painted eyes. You can make it! Children will love this!

Here are the eyes you can copy (detailed instructions on which size to copy and use them on your crocheted doll’s head, you’ll find in the pattern)

Maya’s eyes:

Maya's Eyes

Willy’s eyes:

Willy's eyesAnd here is little collage of photos you will find explained in details inside the pattern:

how to paint eyes

At the end what is left are the mouth. I haven’t sewed them but glued them on the head. For me it always works great! Mouth stay permanently on and are very, very easy to apply (and above all always look great).

How to make mouth

As you can see I have really tried to make it possible for all of you to make exactly the same dolls!

So far the pattern is on test by several ladies, and so far the only problem they encountered is the way foot are made. I did made few photos and tried to explain it in the pattern, but still waiting for all testers to be done and give me feedback and their suggestions on how to make this foot explanation more simple for everyone. The foot I might to come up with in few days with new post. For now I will share photos and pattern I have made so far.

Foot starts from chain and is done in closed rounds. I call them closed rounds because each you start with chain and close with slip stitch (to chain made at the beginning of the round). The rest of the stitches are worked usual way…just this little start/end is different from continuous work.

Looking at this photo I think you can tell:

Maya's Foot (sole)

More details and complete 32 page pattern you can find and download  HERE

Before we end, and before I come with some new Maya’s photo for the ladies who are testing the pattern, leaving you with few photos of my Maya and Willy.

Enjoy the pattern and feel free to write and ask for help if needed. Happy Maya and Willy crochet everyone 🙂

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hugs

Vanja

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Koalas

Hello dear friends!

Hope all had  wonderful Christmas and fun and fabulous New Year’s eve party 🙂

I have to say I am glad holidays and all the madness they bring are behind me and can return to everyday routine (little less crazy)!

I don’t wish to start my first post in this year with the retrospective on what I have accomplished (or failed) last year but wish to focus on year that is ahead of me and all of you who follow this blog and push me each week to work harder in order to come with something new and tempting for all to try. All I can say, last year was fun and hope this one will be even more.

This year I am starting with online classes on how to create a crochet doll or toy and write the pattern. First one I will make with my Facebook group friends and ladies that are interested and waiting patiently for the past two months (for the holiday season to be done). This first class will start in week or two. I will try to keep you updated on the progress what is done. At the end of the class or maybe better say course, will show you the patterns and dolls girls came up with.

In the last two years I have received many mails asking me what brand of yarn I use for my toys and dolls. This year with each pattern I will offer you the yarn I worked with, for sale, through Etsy store. This way anyone who is interested in working with exact type of yarn will be able to find it and buy it online.

Regarding my patterns and posts on the blog, will continue to share my work in as many details and photos as possible. With each pattern will try to show you something new you can learn and use in your future work.

I am sure it will be fun!

Let us return to the topic of this post and Koalas! This year is starting with competition. I am not very competitive person but I decided to participate. I just wish I had more time to make panda family as well (this is one of the patterns I wish to make this year).

Amigurumipatterns.net has organized competition where everyone was invited to participate. Theme was animal parents and children. For that competition I made my favorite, koala bears. Mama and shy little baby koala.

These are made with heart to all my Aussie friends! Specially dear blogger friend Sharon and her Gentlstitches blog.

Koalas have been accepted, voting has started and now it is all in your hands!

Here are few photos of my little family.

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You can place your votes here

So many beautiful designs are there. Hope you will enjoy and find your favorite.

Best of luck to all designers and their fabulous designs.

To all of you who will go and check the page, thank you for taking your time.

Hugs

Vanja

p.s.

The pattern of these koalas is coming soon!

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Pammy the Piglet

And again we have little treat from our Facebook group. I try to encourage and post free patterns done by dear friends and amigurumi enthusiasts who make these for pleasure and fun. If you remember first one we shared this way was little Bianchina by Stefania Bianchi. She was accepted great and there are many Bianchina projects finished and photos shared on Facebook what makes me so happy. Really hope Stefania will come up with some new pattern we can share soon.

This time I can proudly present little Pammy the Piglet made by NVkatherine from Vietnam. This is her third free pattern. She also makes video tutorials of her projects and I will share you her links so you can visit and see her work.

She was very kind to offer this pattern to be presented and shared in my blog and I feel very honored and happy I have this blog and all of you dear friends who follow to share this little one with.

So here it is, little Pammy the Piglet:

pammy_the_piglet__free_pattern___tutorial__by_nvkatherine-d7mbvwt

PATTERN:

Abbreviations:

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

inc = increase (a.k.a. 2sc in 1st)

dec = decrease (a.k.a. sc2tog)

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

BLO = back loops only

FLO = front loops only

FO = fasten off

 

HEAD

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 1sc in each st around [24]

6. 3sc, 1inc [30]

7. 4sc, 1inc [36]

8. 5sc, 1inc [42]

9. 1sc in each st around for 5 rows [42]

10. 5sc, 1dec [36]

11. 4sc, 1dec [30]

12. 3sc, 1dec [24]

~> Add safety eyes between row 9 and 10, 11 stitches apart.

13. 2sc, 1dec [18]

14. 1sc, 1dec [12]

15. dec around [6]

FO. Leave a long tail to sew up the gap.

 

BODY

*With white yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 2sc, 1inc [24]

5. 3sc, 1inc [30]

6. 1sc in each st around for 3 rows [30]

*Change to pink*

7. 4sc, 1dec [25]

8. 1sc in each st around [25]

9. 3sc, 1dec [20]

10. 1sc in each st around [20]

11. 2sc, 1dec [15]

12. 3sc, 1dec [12]

FO. Leave a long tail to connect the body to the head.

 

LEGS

*With pink yarn*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 1sc, 1inc [18]

4. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [18]

5. 4sc, 1dec [15]

6. 1sc in each st around [15]

7. 3sc, 1dec [12]

8. 2sc, 1dec [9]

9. 1sc in each st around for 2 rows [9]

FO. Leave long tails to sew the legs onto the body.

 

ARMS

*With pink yarn*

1. 7sc in the magic ring [7]

2. 1sc in each st around for 10 rows [7]

F/O. Leave long tails to sew both arms onto the body.

 

NOSE

*With pink*

1. 6sc in the magic ring [6]

2. 1inc around [12]

3. 2sc, 1inc [16]

4. sc around in BLO [16]

5. sc around normally [16]

F/O. Leave long tail to sew onto the face.

 

EARS

1. 4sc in the magic ring [4]

2. 1sc, 1inc [6]

3. 1dec, 4inc [9]

4. 1inc, 2sc [12]

5. 3sc, 1inc [15]

6. 4sc, 1inc [18]

7. 1sc, 1dec [12]

8. dec around [6]

Sl st into next st and F/O. Leave long tails to sew the ears onto the head.

 

TAIL

1. ch6

2. 1inc across starting from the second chain from the hook [10]

F/O. Leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

NOTE: After sewing on everything, you can add decorations onto your pig. It’s totally up to you! ^^

 

For complete video tutorial on how to make your Pammy the Piglet, please fee free to visit Youtube and watch the vide NVkatherine made for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6tGSbjx0Co

Pammy the Piglet by NVkatherine

For all questions, likes and anything else you would like to find about designer and her patterns you can find her on these two links:

Devianart:

http://nvkatherine.deviantart.com/art/Pammy-the-Piglet-FREE-PATTERN-TUTORIAL-460769357

Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/vi.lenguyennhat

 

So what do you think? Isn’t this one so adorable that you feel like making one for yourself?

Hope you have enjoyed. Thank you for staying with me and little Pammy  the Piglet.

Hugs

Vanja

Designed by NVkatherine2014

This is originally designed by NVkatherine so please do NOT claim this pattern yours. Don’t repost the pattern any where or sell it. You may sell the finished dolls but please give NVkatherine/Vi the credit as the designer.

Thank you

 

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Bianchina by Stefania

Proudly presenting little Bianchina, first pattern made by Stefania Bianchi.

For those that don’t know, some time last year I have created little Facebook group named FairyDolls Crochet. Was easier to give hand and help with my patterns this way. There are 300 of us members but are growing daily. We share experiences, help each other, share photos, links to free patterns from fellow bloggers and just hang up as a group of enthusiasts who like to make dolls and toys. Stefania is one of our oldest members and few weeks ago she shared this Bianchina pattern with us. I have fell in love with little sheep, and same day star

ted making one myself. As the pattern was in Italian (and have to first Italian pattern I worked on), I translated it to English as I worked on it (to help Stefania and group members who were excited about this pattern as much as I was).

 

So here is Bianchina I made.

Bianchina - pattern by Stefania BianchiBianchina

With with Stefanias permission offering you her free pattern so you can make your own Bianchina 🙂

Pattern is easy to follow. For any questions you might have, you can freely ask me, or contact Stefania through her Facebook page. All the details you will find herewith.

Here is the copy of the pattern. You can also find it free to download and save for personal use on my Free Patterns page.

Wishing you all lots of fun times with Bianchina! Big thanks to dear Stefania. Hopefully new pattern from her will be available soon!!!

Bianchina 1

Bianchina 2Bianchina 3Bianchina 4Bianchina 5Bianchina 6Bianchina 7

 

 

 

 

While you are all working on your new pattern, I will go back to finish my new project; Waldorf inspired doll. Dear friends, I love this doll!!!!

By now you all know I love dolls. Not only making them but I really enjoy having them, seeing them, being around them… This one is real treasure. Really, really a doll! Soft, cuddly, beautiful… Here is sneak peak to what I am working on these days.

Waldorf inspired doll - AmigurumiBBAmigurumiBB - work in progress, Waldorf/Steiner inspired doll

Wishing you all happy and peaceful rest of the weekend.

 

Vanja

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Bratz inspired doll

I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.

First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then

as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!

At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.

First will show you my Bratz doll.

BratzBB curly hair front

As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.

Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):

http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi

on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html

This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there).  It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.

You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.

Patterns are:

1. Basic Bratz doll body

2. How to create hair from satin ribbon

3. How to connect limbs to the body

Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉

Lolly front

 

This is my Lolly!

lolly sideLolly back

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.

Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.

 

Hugs

 

Vanja

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Christmas Ornaments Part2

Colleen, our blog neighbor made a wish; as this is kind of a year when wishes are fulfilled (for some at least 😉 ) I decided to add two more patterns in Christmas Ornaments group!

How could I ever forget to make Mrs. Claus!? Or penguin ornament!!!???

Felt so guilty that started to work as soon as I red Colleen’s message! 😀

If there is anything else I have forgotten to add, please, please let me know so we can make them in time!

Like said, Mrs. Claus and penguin ornaments are finished and ready for you to try them out! Easy and fast as previous ones. MrsClaus&Penguins

Ready, steady, go!

Basic ornaments info and head pattern to make Mrs. Claus you can find here

http://amigurumibb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/christmas-ornaments.pdf

together with the rest of the information regarding yarn, hooks…

Mrs.Claus’s head is made of two parts only. Basic head pattern and hat on which is attatche the hair as well. Make both, attatch one to another and Mrs. Claus will be done in no time.

You can use safety eyes, 4-5mm beads or embroider eyes with black thread.

Here is how hat and hair are made to finish Mrs. Claus

Mrs. Claus’s Hat

With red yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R11 sc to every second stitch (33 sts)

R12 front looks only  ch2 (counts as 1st dc), dc to same st, 2dc in each stitch around, slip stitch last dc to first chain made, attach white yarn

R13 ch2, slip stitch to next stitch, ch2, slip stitch to next…around

Tie off hide ands

 

Now add hair. We’ll add it to the hat, so once hat made, the had will be complete.

 

To back loops of R12, attach white yarn. Through next 12 stitches make single crochets (this will make the front of the hat, right above eyes)

The rest of the hat-hair make: ch8, slip stitch to next stitch, ch8, slip stitch…

When reaching first sc made earlier, slip stitch, tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat to the head.

Design face as snowman, or make Mrs Clous look the way you prefer. I used same facial features as ones used for Snowmen and Santas described in Christmas Ornaments post.

Lady Santa is done 😉

Penguin & MrsClaus Ornaments

Next one is Penguin!

Penguin ornament

We will make same size basic head but this time will work in two colors.

White and color of your choice for the penguin.

 

Before we start, for those that don’t know how to change colors, let me say a word or two.

Whenver I will write “change color” – will count as one sc.

To change color, you will work with working color. Pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over with the working color yarn, pull it through the loop. Having two loops on the hook!

To finish the stitch, now change the color; yarn over new color yarn, and pull through both loops on the hook. Stitch is finished, yarn is changed.

Simple as this!

 

Start with white yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 sc13 sts, change color, sc27, change color (42 sts)

R8 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change color, sc27, change color

R9 repeat R8

R10 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change coolor, sc28

R11 change color, sc3, change color, cs3, change color, sc3, change color sc29

From this round working with not white color only

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff head nice and firm

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Add more stuffing if needed

R17 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing (closing) the last round nicely. Hide ends.

Tiny hat

With red yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 sc6

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R7 *inc1, scx7* x2 (18 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R9 reverse or crab stitch around

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat on the head (or if you prefer gluing, glue the hat on).

 

Pompom on top of the hat.

Made 1 cm wide pompom.

I made mine wrapping yarn over my index finger 20 times. Cut the yarn, threaded the needle, sewed and tightened the middle of pompom. Trimmed it and made it nice and round. Sewed it on top of the hat!

Beak

With yellow or orange yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)

Tie off and sew the beak on the head, right beneath and in the middle of eye section.

Place eyes (I painted mine) in the centers of white section, little bit over beak level (one row upper).

And penguin ornament is done! 😉

 

Wishing you best of time making them! For any help….drop a line!

 

Wishing you lovely end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

With love,

Vanja

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One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage.  At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉Flower Girl  - One piece flat head doll -Part II - clothes pattern

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us.  This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll

Flower Girl - One piece Flat Doll

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.

Dress:

You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.

ch16

R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5  -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.

Hat

– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.

Shoes:

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.

ch31

R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration

ch21

R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll. one piece doll - flower girl part2 - how to make clothes - free pattern

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!

Posted on

One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head.  If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.

 

Abbreviation:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease

 

- cloth doll inspired crochet -

cloth doll inspired crochet

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5th stitch from the end, ch1,  sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49  sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair,  paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on. DSC01681

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,

VanjaDSC01683

Posted on

Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head

Hello everyone!

This week I wanted to share new doll pattern, but meantime I made a promise to Donna who is crocheting animals for kids at her local hospital that will try to make this pattern alive, and here we are Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head is free to be done for little ones and those not so little!

My first Teddy Eddy was made for my sweetheart, as a key holder (and named after him). Made many of these teddies. Not only as bears but it is easy to be done/adjusted as koala or panda.

It is really cute and small one! Hardly makes 10 cm (with dk cotton and 2 mm hook). One fast and easy project to do.

Here are the photos of my little Teddy Eddy

On first photo is my first TeddyEddy done. Was one of those projects, when I just took the yarn and the needle and crocheted without anything in my mind. Waited to get surprised what will come out from my work.

On the second photo are some of little ones I made later. Whoever saw TeddyEddy, wanted one immediately!

TeddyEddy4Friends will be friends

This one I made today, while writing down the pattern.

TeddyEddy

Think we can start!

Materials I used:

2 mm crochet hook

Patons 100% cotton yarn DK

Wooden black beads, 4 mm, for the eyes

needle for sewing the parts together, nose and shaping the head.

Small piece of black yarn for making the nose

 

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)

dec – decrease (I used invisible decrease)

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6  (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6-R9 sc30 sts  (for those that use safety eyes, pčace the eyes in between R9 and R10 leaving 4 sc between them.)

R10 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R12 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts) – mark this row, as here we will sew a little to shape the head

R13-R14 sc48 sts

R15 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R16 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R17 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Body

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R11 sc36 sts

R12 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30sts)

R13 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R15-R16 sc18 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head later. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R5-R8 sc8 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arm to the head later. If you want you can stuff the bottom of each arm a little.

 

Legs (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1*x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5-R6 sc24 sts

R7 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R8 sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R12 sc12 sts

Stuff the bottom of the leg. Flatten the top and single crochet through both sides for 5 stitches total. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the legs to the body later.

 

Ears

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3-R4 sc12 sts

R5 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears later.

 

Belly

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the belly on the body.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3 sc9 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail to the body later.

 

Shaping the head:

Take the bears head in your hands. By now should be well stuffed and nicely firm. As you can see, there are 6 peaks around the bottom part of the head (where we started to decrease). Pick one of these peaks. On R12 that we have marked earlier at one of these peaks mark 3 stitches using safety pins.

What you will do now, is wave the yarn with the needle through these three stitches (from the bottom of the head opening, through the head, through the stitch out, into the second stitch, through the head to the bottom, pull, through the head up to the next  stitch …repeat for each stitch).

where to wave in and sew to shape the head

To make few hairs on top of the head, when done shaping the head, pull the needle through the head to the top. Sew few lops (as if making the tassel-1-2 are enough). Finish off pulling the needle through the head, towards the bottom, cut and hide ends in the stuffing.

When done with this waving and sewing, you will get this pointing nose looking shape, when looking from the side.

assembling the parts

Assembling the parts together:

Sew body and the head together through 18 stitches on each side.

Arms will go on sides of the body

Sew the legs in between the row5 and 6. Center them, leaving 2 stitches in between them.

Tail will go on the back of the body, right after row 5.

Place the ears on the sides of the head, starting row 4 downwards.

Place the belly and sew it all around to fin nicely on the center of the body’s front.

And your TeddyEddy is done.TeddyEddy

Hope you have enjoyed making it. If you will need any help regarding the head shaping and sewing, please feel free to contact me and ask. I will try to make some good photographs of the whole process as well, for your easier following and understanding how it goes.

’till next time wishing you all great time crocheting 🙂

 

 

Posted on

Blue Bear pattern

To all marvelous grandmothers and great-grandmothers who have asked and waited patiently for this pattern to be written, I would like to thank.

This little one is really done as a softy toy. Little pocket on his belly makes him nice hiding treasure bear as well 😀

Wish you all great Blue Bear crocheting!

Blue Bear - 5

Blue Bear Pattern:

Abbreviations:

sc -single crochet

ch -chain

inc -2sc in one stitch

dec -decrease (I used invisible decrease on this one)

sl.st. – slip stitch

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8ply cotton yarn in blue for the bear, white for the nose and pocket belly and starting ups on the legs and arms.

embroidery thread in black, embroidery needle for sewing up the parts and to embroider nose. eyes.

 

Head

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R25 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R26 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

Stuff the head well.

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

Body

(rounds. Ch1 at the beginning of work and sl.st finishing the row)

Ch11

R1 sc9, 3sc in one st, sc8, 2 sc in one st (22 sts)

R2 inc1, sc8, inc3, sc8, inc2 (28 sts)

R3 inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (34 sts)

R4 inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2 (40 sts)

R5 inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3 (46 sts)

R6 inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4 (52 sts)

R6 inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc13, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5 (58 sts)

R8 inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc14, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6 (64 sts)

R9-R18 sc64 sts

R19 dec1, sc14, dec1 sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc14, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6 (58 sts)

R20 sc58 sts

R21 dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc13, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5 (52 sts)

R22 sc52 sts

R23 dec1, sc12, dec1 sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc12, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4 (46 sts)

R24 sc46 sts

R25 dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc11, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3 (40 sts)

R26 sc40 sts

R27 dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 (34 sts)

R28 sc34 sts

R29 dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1 (28 sts)

R30 sc28 sts

Stuff the body. Stuff it well, but try it to stay nice and soft.

Tie off, leave long end for sewing the body to the head. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Change color

R4-R8  sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R27 sc12 sts

Stuff the arms softly. Try to push the stuffing only to the bottom of the arms. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

 

Legs (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

Change color

R5-R9 sc24 sts

R10 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R11-25 sc18 sts

Stuff the legs softly. Try to push the stuffing  to the bottom of the leags only. Leave the rest empty.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the legs to the body.

 

Ears (x2)

(continuous rounds)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18 sts

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R8 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears to the head later.

 

Nose

(continuous rounds)

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around the chain, sc3, in1 (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24sts)

R4-R5 sc24 sts

Tie off, leaving long end for sewing later.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3-R4 sc9 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail later.

 

Pocket Belly

We are working in rows here. Finishing each row, ch1, turn the work and continue as indicated in the patter.

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 inc4 (8sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x4 (32 sts)

R9-R10 sc32 sts

When done, chain one and sc through the edge. Make 2sc in the magic ring, continue with 1sc till the end.

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the pocket on the body later.

Blue Bear - 3

Assembling the parts:

Sew the head and the body. You should have nice joint of 28 stitches all around. Add some stuffing as you go if needed.

Sew on the arms. Flatten them and sew them through both side stitches to the body. Try to leave 11-12 stitches between looking at front side.

Before sewing, place them nice, pin them well and sew.

Sewing the legs. Sew them between rows 6-7 (looking from the bottom).

Flatten the leas, place them close one to another, pin them and sew them nicely through he stitches between row 6 and 7.

Now sew the ears. Place them on the sides of the head. Looking from the top of the head, place them on sides starting row4 until row 10. Pin them and sew them nicely.

Sew on the tail. Place it right after row 6, in the middle of back side of the body. Sew it nicely.

Nose

You can design the tip of the nose now, or you can do it later. It depends how you like it and feel comfortable with it. Important is that you embroider the tip of the nose on the upper side of the nose construction.

Embroider mouth on the bottom part of nose construction, using black embroidery thread.

Stuff the nose (construction) a little,  place it on the bottom half of the head, pin it and sew it nicely.

Sew the eyes to the very top edge of the nose construction, leaving 7 stitches between them. It is optional to make the eyebrows or eyelashes (if you will be making a girl bear)..

At the end, place and pin the pocket belly. Sew it nicely, hide the ends.

Your Blue Bear is done and ready to play with.

Hope you enjoyed making it and kids will have fun playing!Blue Bear - 1Blue Bear - 6

Copyrigh on written pattern reserved