Posted on 22 Comments

One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll.  Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking!  He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.One piece boy

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

one piece boy

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25  shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it.  Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!


ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from piece boy


This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:


R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .


Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made


R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:


sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end


sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts)  – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.



R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.


For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉DSC01760

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,



Posted on 22 Comments

One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage.  At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉Flower Girl  - One piece flat head doll -Part II - clothes pattern

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us.  This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll

Flower Girl - One piece Flat Doll

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.


You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.


R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5  -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.


– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.


sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.


R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration


R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll. one piece doll - flower girl part2 - how to make clothes - free pattern

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!

Posted on 45 Comments

One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head.  If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.



Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease


- cloth doll inspired crochet -

cloth doll inspired crochet


R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5th stitch from the end, ch1,  sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49  sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair,  paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on. DSC01681

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,


Posted on 59 Comments

Oopsie Doll

Little LalaOopsie is finished!

Was fun making this little one and hope you will have as much fun making her, as well as you daughters playing with her. Possibilities are endless. Specially when it comes making hair or dress. Looking forward to hear how about your ideas!

Here is the one I made (this is just the first one…many more will follow 🙂 )

Think we can start with the pattern right away. There is a lot of work to do!oopsie

Abbreviation, US terms:

Sc         Single crochet

Dc         Double crochet

Inc         2 sc in one stitch

Sl.St.         Slip stitch

Dec.         decrease, invisible decrease or 2 stitches together

Ch         Chain

Blo         back loops only

Flo         front loops only

Materials used:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

felt:          black (for eye lashes and under the button placement)

pink (cheeks)

Black embroidery thread for designing the lips

Two 7 mm buttons

Embroidery and darning needles for sewing up the parts and designing the face

Wire (for legs and arms – to make them flexible and mobile)

P.T.F.E. thread seal tape to secure the wire ends

Stuffing of your choice for the head and body

Finished size of this doll is 23 cm (9 inches)

Gauge per 1 inch (2,5 cm): 9stx8rows


In skin color of your choice:

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R19 sc66 sts

R20 *Dec1, sc9* x6 (60 sts)

R21 *Dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R22 *Dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R23 *Dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R24 *Dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R25 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R26 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R27 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Begin stuffing the head. Stuff it nice and firm.

R28 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Finish stuffing.


Working on the panties. Choose the color you want panties to be.

R1 sc6 in magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R9 sc36 sts

Change color to one you are using for skin.

R10 sc36 sts

R11 *Dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R12 sc30 sts

R13 *Dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 sc24 sts

R15 *Dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R16 sc18 sts

At this point begin stuffing the body

R17 *Dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R18 sc12 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head.

Finish stuffing the body

Legs (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2  Inc4 (8 sts)

R3-32 sc30  8sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing

Arms (x2)

Working with yarn in skin color of your choice

R1 sc4 in magic ring (working in continuous rounds)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3-R4 sc6 sts

R5 ch3, sl.st2 (to this chain you have just made – we are making thumb here), *sc2, inc1* x2 (8 sts)

R6-R25 sc8 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the arm to the body later

Now take the legs and hands and wire you have prepared.

Measure the length from one end to another (for leg and arm) and cut wire in same length.

Now use a little bit of stuffing, wrap it tightly on the top of each side of the wire. You can tighten it with some thread if it will be easier for you, take the seal tape and start wrapping it around ends, through the middle, towards the other end, until you have this nice looking, safe piece, with both ends closed and secured.

Here is the photo of materials used in my Oopsie doll and how this “stick” looks like before put into arm or leg.

wire sticksfinished stick

As you finish all four of the sticks place them inside the limbs.

Make another one short though, about 5 cm  ( 2 inches) long. This one make little bit thicker (If the wire is narrow as mine, fold it twice and twist it a little before wrapping it and making it safe. This piece we will use for head-body connection so the head doest wobble around.

Now you can start sewing the body parts together.

Start with head and body first.

Place the “stick” (wire) in the middle of both parts and sew the head and body nicely through all of 12 stitches. Add some stuffing if needed.


Sew the legs on the bottom of the body, starting at R2-R6 at each side.

Safety pin them, check them twice and sew them nicely.


Place arms on the sides of the body. Place them second row below from where the head and body are sewed together. Sew them through two rows, nicely. Be aware to place the thumb pointing front.


we can start working on hair


In color of your choice

R1 sc6 in the magic ring (work in continuous round)

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *Inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *Inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *Inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *Inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *Inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *Inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10 *Inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11 *Inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R12-R15 sc66 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head.


I have done mine in pair of two bunches, but then sewed them all together to look as made in one piece.

You can do the hair many different ways. You can make ringlets longer or shorter. You can make them thicker or thinner. You can make them less or more in numbers.

Start working, make few, place it on the head and see if you like them to be that way. Play and have fun. It really is fun! 😀

I will give you directions n how I did the ringlets. Will give you the instructions on two bunches with 5 ringlets each and you decide if you will make them looking as one or will sew them as two pony tails on each side of the head.

I made each different size. Some are the same, some are not. Was making the chains from 45-50 stitches.

In instructions will say 45 for each ringlet, but you increase or decrease as much as you like it.

Ch 47

Starting at the third stitch from the hook, stitch 3dc, repeat this for each stitch on this chain. (3dc in one st)

Reaching the end chain 47 again and repeat 3dc in each st.

This way make all 5 ringlets. Tie off and leave long end for sewing them on the head later.

Make two of such ringlets bunches.


I did almost the same way. Didn’t have the same shade of purple that’s why these are little bit darker. Use same color yarn for the bangs.

For the bangs I also started with chain


Make 3 more the same way

Instead of crocheting the bangs, you can just sew on few bangs on top of the head when hair will be done (before placing the bow). It is easier and also gives very nice effect. Oopsie1


Starting with sole base (chose the color)


R1 sc6, 3sc in one st, continue working on the other side of the chain, sc5, 2sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 inc1, sc5, inc3, sc5 inc2 (22 sts)

Change color in one you like shoes to be.

R3-R4 sc22 sts

R5 sc5, dec3, sc8 (16 sts)

R6 sc5, dec4, sc5 (14 sts)

R7 sc6, ch1 turn backwards and stitch 12 sts

(from this point on we will be working the rows, not continuous rounds)

R8-R13 sc12 sts

Change color (or use this one you have been working with) and single crochet around the edges .

Wave in the shoe laces with needle and thread of your choice.

I made chain and used it as shoe lace, but you can use a piece of yarn or thin bow.

You can make boots higher if you like.

Or, what can be done is to stitch the socks using the back loops only on the boots (making the sock or just nice lace effect coming out of the boots). Giving you just few ideas you can try to play with.


Uf! This can be done 1001 way, trust me!

It was challenging to make it in one piece without buttons, zippers…and easy enough for girls that will play with the doll be able to take it off and change (if you will make a several 😉 ).

Dress is not done in continuous rounds. So after each row, ch1 or ch2, depending if you are starting with single crochet od double one. Finishing the row, slip stitch the last stitch to the first chain you started.

I have started my dress with chain of 36 stitches. Before closing the chain into circle, check if it fits to your doll (so you can add or decrease stitch or two).

Here we go:


Use color of your choice for the base dress color

Upper part

Ch 36, to close the chain into a ring

R1 sc36

R2 sc36

R3 dc36

R4 dc36

R5 dc36

R6 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Using long chain (you made out of thread, yarn) in color of your choice, or string, or bow, wave in between the R5-R6 starting in front of the dress, going allthe way around and finishing in front right before you started. This we will use to close the dress after it is put on the doll, to give her nice fitting effect 😉

Turn the dress upside down, to where we have started with the chain row. We are making the skirt now. Slip stitch to any stitch and start with our first row making the bottom of the dress.

I used yellow yarn here (that was later decorated with green) to make belt effect on this dress. You can change the color or just continue with the same one you have worked the top with.


R1  sc36 blo

R2 sc36 blo

Change color (here I switched from yellow to pink again)

R3 2dc in one st FLO all the way around

R4 dc in each st

R5 2dc in each st

R6 dc in each st

R7 2dc in each st

Change color (for this row I used turquoise color)

R8 sc in each st

Change color (for the final row I used yellow)

R9 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat all the way around

Under skirt

With thinner white yarn

Slip stitch at one of the back loops on R3 of the dress’s bottom.

R1 sc all the way around

R2 2dc in each st

R3 dc each st

R4 2dc in each st

R5 dc each st

R6 2dc in each st

Change color (I used green here)

R7 *ch2, skip one st,* repeat till the end of this row.

Shoulder sleeves

Put the dress on the doll. Tighten the upper part with the bow or string you waved in, and mark best place where the strings for the shoulder sleeves would go best. This is how I did it.

Mark all four points. Two in front and two on the back, take the dress off the doll and start making the shoulder strings in the same color as the dress was made.

R1 at the front of the dress. Ch10, at the back (of the same shoulder side)

Change color (first one I did was pink, and now was switching to turquoise)

R2 sc10 st

Change color (mine is yellow here)

R3 *ch2, skip one st, sl.st1* repeat till end

Tie off sew and hide ends nicely

In addition there is bow to make on the belt, and if you like you can add one row of zig-zag motif.

Choose what will you use for the belt. Starting at front, wave in the string or bow or whatever you have chosen for this.

In one of the rows where you have front loops visible slip stitch the yarn in color of your choice and make this motif:

*Ch2, skip one stitch,* all the way around.

Tie off, hide the ends.




R1 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch2, turn

R2-4 repeat the pattern from R1

When finished with R4, sc all the way around the bow.

Tie off, hide the end.

Bow middle

Ch8 (one color)

R1 sc7 (second color)

R2 *ch2, skip one, sl.st1* repeat for all the stitches (third color)

Tie or sew this piece at the middle of the bow, and sew the bow nicely on top of the head.



Place the hair “cap” on, Position it the way you like it the best. Safety pin it and sew it all around.

Now place the ringlets the way you want them to be. Safety pin them and sew them so they stay at place where you wanted them to be.

If you are using bangs with slip stitched chains, the way I made my Oopsie doll, place it on the very top of the head, safety pin each bang and sew one by one, little by little on the front of the head.

At the end sew on the bow, One in the middle, on top of the head, or two at sides, depending how you will make your ringlets to be.


Use little bit of black felt. Place the buttons you will use of eyes on the felt, draw the outline and cut out two black felt pieces you will put under the buttons.

We will glue them first. Buttons on the felt and felt on the head, so once sewed on will stay nice and firm.

For eye lashes cut black felt, making kind of V shape pattern (as for two lashes to stick on the eye sides).

Safety pin the eyes and using black thread sew them on the head.

With embroidery needle and black thread, sew the  smiling mouth.

Using pink felt, cut two circles of about 1cm big and glue them on the face. I used regular all purpose crystal glue.

If you don’t have the felt for eyes or cheeks. Embroider the eyelashes on each side of the eye. Use little bit of powder blush for the cheeks.

Was a little work to do for this doll but at the end it’s al worth it. Hope you enjoyed making Oopsie and most of all hope your kids will enjoy playing with one! 😀

Looking forward to hear all you comments, suggestions, replies. Let me know how it goes! Send me some photos of finished doll! Looking forward hearing from you and seeing the photos.

Wish you all the best of luck and lots of fun making these dolls.

If you will come up with some special and new ideas, let me know so we will publish them on the blog!


‘till next time wishing you lots of fun and joy!


On the left side of the home page I have added the box with several patterns in .pdf  for your easier download and work.

Posted on 88 Comments

Sleeping buddies, lavender stuffed doll

This week was inspired by my first doll I ever got (had). Was a plush, red, patch doll think is called in English, with rubber face. Was one of those you take for sleeping. Soft and cuddly. This week remembered that doll again, and said, why not making one. In my yarn stash had this ball of very old white cotton yarn. Even the way it looked you could say  was very old. That was inspiring as well. “Vintage” looking doll, old yarn to go with..could not be better.

Added few details at the end and came up with this little one. Rice stuffed dolls - 11

Little sleeping buddy doll in cow pijama. Topic of this post is sleeping buddies stuffed with rice/lavender. This doll is stuffed with rice and fiber fill  stuffing. As I was stuffing the doll, was stuffing her in layers, mixing rice and fiber fill together. Only the head is stuffed with fiber stuffing all the way (but because had this head made some time ago).

The first doll was done! Now I had to try out the pattern and make new doll. Used tiny bits of different colors, to match the yarn weight and gauge. Basically left over yarns I found, but were the same producer. In second try I got the pattern done completely and finished doll looking like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 10

Difference at this one is the filling. This doll is mainly stuffed with rice. Fiberfill is added on top of each part for easier closing and sewing the parts later. I must say that this dolls fills great when held in hands, and I like her the most. It is heavy, when you squeeze her you can feel the rice grains inside and is fun to touch and play with.  Head I stuffed with fiberfill at this one as well. To be honest, wasn’t in the mood to experiment with rice. 🙂

While working on the second doll, this idea of stuffing the doll with lavender crossed my mind. While having breaks, took a trip to wardrobe in search of the lavender bags hiding there. Picked up fw, took the lavender out and now had to make one more doll to try this out! Lavender stuffed doll!

Rice stuffed dolls - 09

That is why the third doll is all flowery looking 😀 She is lavender one!

Stuffing it just with lavender doesn’t work. I was using last years lavender, and was pretty dry and light weight. You can’t really “stuff” the doll. Furthermore, lavender breaks and makes dust. To avoid this breaking of lavender and dusting, again used the layers stuffing method. Little bit of stuffing, little bit of lavender and at the end you get this beautifully nice smelling soft doll, what makes ideal sleeping buddy.

Here are all three of the dolls made together 🙂

Rice stuffed dolls - 07

Think we can start with the pattern. I am giving you the basic pattern, no details on the flowers or cow pijames.

Even the colors I didn’t mention in the pattern, so you can work based on own wishes or yarn availabilities. Important is to keep the yarn weight same or very similar.

Here is the Rice/Lavender stuffed Doll pattern:

Abbreviations (US terms):

Sc: Single crochet

St: Stitch

Inv.dc: Invisible decrease

Ch: chain

Materials used:

5ply or sports weight yarn in different colors

2mm crochet hook

black embroidery thread

embroidery needle

4mm round beads for eyes (if you are making the doll for babies, use safety eyes or sew the eyes on the face. do not use beads!)


R1: Sc6 n magic ring (6)

R2: 2sc in each st around (12)

R3: *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc in one st, sc2* x6 (24)

R5: *2c in one st, sc3* x6 (30)

R6: *2sc in one st, sc4* x6 (36)

R7-R10: sc36

R11: *2sc in one st, sc5* x6 (42)

R12: *2sc in one st, sc6* x6 (48)

R13: *2sc in one st, sc7* x6 (54)

R14-R16: sc54

R17: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x6 (48)

R18: sc48

R19: *inv.dec1, sc4* x8 (40)

R20: *inv.dec.1, sc2* x10 (30)

R21: *inv.dec.1, sc1* x10 (20)

R22:  inv.dec. x 8, sc4 (12)

Tie off. Stuff the head nice and firm.



R1: starting from the secong ch from hook, sc10, 3sc in one st (turn around),  sc9, 2sc in one st.

R2: 2sc in ne st, sc9, *2sc in one st* x3, sc9, *2sc in one st* x2 (30)

R3: sc1, 2sc in one st, sc10, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc10, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st. (36)

R4: sc2,  2sc in one st, sc11, *2sc in one st, sc2* x2, 2sc in one st, sc 11, 2sc in one st, sc2, 2sc in one st. (42)

R5-R14: sc42

R15: sc2, inv.dec.1, sc11, *inv.dec.1, sc2* x2, inv.dec1, sc11, inv.dec.1, sc2, inv.dec.1 (36)

R16: sc36

R17: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc10, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc10, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (30)

R18: sc30

R19: inv.dec.1, sc9, inv.dec. x3, sc9, inv.dec. x2 (24)

R20: sc24

R21: sc1, inv.dec.1, sc4, *inv.dec.1, sc1* x2, inv.dec.1, sc4, inv.dec.1, sc1, inv.dec.1 (18)

R22-R23: sc18

R24: inv.dec.1, sc3, inv.dec. x3, sc3, inv.dec. x2 (12)

R25:  sc12

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body with the head. Stuff the body well.

Legs  (x2)


R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3:  sc1, 2sc in one st, sc4, *2sc in one st, sc1* x2, 2sc in one st, sc4, 2sc in one st, sc1, 2sc in one st (24)

R4- R6: sc24

R7: *inv.dec.1, sc10* x2 (22)

R8-R9: sc22

R10: *inv.dec.1, sc9* (20)

R11-R12: sc20

R13: *inv.dec.1, sc8* x2(18)

R14-R15: sc18

Stuff the leg. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 8 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the leg to the body and pull out through the last stitch.

Arms (x2)


R1: sc4, 3sc in one st (turn around) sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2: 2sc in one st. sc3, *2sc in one st* x3, sc3, *2sc in one st* x2 (18)

R3-R5: sc18

R6: *inv.dec.1, sc7* x2(16)

R7-R8: sc16

R9: *inv.dec.1, sc6* x2(14)

R10-R11: sc14

R12: *inv.dec1, sc5* x2(12)

R13-R14): sc12

Stuff the arm. Flatten the ends and single crochet through both sides (two stitches across), making 5 stitches in total.

Cut the tread, log enough for sewing the arm to the body and pull out through the last stitch.



R1-R18: sc50

Fold piece in the half, and stitch across side, through both stitches, making 25 st along the way.

Cut the thread and tie off at the end.

Ch60, and with needle pass and pull trough stitches on the bottom of hood (as shown on the photo).

Cut off the access yarn, hide the ends, flip the hood inside out and is ready to be placed on dolls head.

I like to fold out one row in the front of the hood. Find it nice looking on dolls head.

Here is how your crocheted piece for hood will look like: Rice stuffed dolls - 01

Now fold it in two like this and stitch 25sc through both sides (two stitches at same time):Rice stuffed dolls - 02Now ch60, yarn over embroidery needle and sew through the stitches at the bottom of the hood, pulling the chain you crocheted thorugh those stitches:

Rice stuffed dolls - 04

At the end the hood will look like this:Rice stuffed dolls - 05Rice stuffed dolls - 06

Assembling the parts together:

Sew he body and the head together.

Decide where the front/back will be so can start positioning and sewing the legs. Sew legs between the 4th and 5th row counting from the bottom (first, starting row). Leave one stitch between each leg.

Place arms on the sides of the body. Sew them nicely through 5 stitches we have made while finishing the arms.

Designing the face: 

Place the eyes, between between rows, 11-12. Leave 5 stitches between them

Embroider the smiling mouth. Without mouth doll looks great as well.

For any details on the face, or on the body, free your mind and play! 😀

At the end place the hood on doll’s head and your sleeping buddy is done!

Hope you enjoyed reading this and will enjoy making the doll! Make as many as you wish for your family and friends. Let me know what you did for stuffing, how the work went and what was your experience with the pattern.

If you will encounter any mistakes done, let me know, and will correct them immediately.

Thank you all for your time spent reading my post!Rice stuffed dolls - 08


I have forgotten to mention few details.

Finished size of the doll is 16 (hight) x 8 (width) cm / 6 x 3,5 inches  (if done with sport weight yarn and 2mm hook, as I did)

The work is done in continuous round (at least it is how I did it, you do it the way you like and prefer).

After each row is finished, continue without slip stitching or chain one. Mark the beginning of each row  for easier counting and pattern following.

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Bee Girl

Since I started this blog, just few months ago, encountered so many great bloggers that I would like to thank for all their effort and work done blogging. For their kindness to share with us their thoughts on some ordinary and non so ordinary issues, to share their knowledge trying to teach us new things, or just for being here so kind and so nice as they are and make this blogging space be a nice, warm and happy place for all of us that follow them.

One among these great bloggers I encountered is Tales Of Twisted Fibers one. Name suits her perfectly! If you haven’t been there yet, I warmly recommend you to go and check her out. Check and see why “twisted” and why we love her so much.

About two weeks ago she came up with this Bee girl. Ami doll that I really liked. Was thrilled when she posted the pattern for that doll as well. Could not resist giving her a try and  to make one Bee doll just for me 😉

Here is the link of her Bee Girl! Check her out before you proceed!

Free Bee Girl Amigurumi Pattern

Making the doll was so much fun. Pattern is easy to follow. Outcome, the finished doll looks great! I love it and am sure all of you will!

So hurry, hurry and make one Bee Girl as well! 😀

Here is my Bee Girl made out of pattern designed and published by Tales Of Twisted Fibers. Thank you ToTF for this wonderful pattern and your kindness and generosity to share it with us! DSC01373 DSC01375 DSC01378


Posted on 291 Comments

BB Dolls

BBDolls - 3This week wanted to talk about amigurumi doll’s hair making. If you ask me, it is the hardest part of finishing the doll and making her look the way we imagine. At least it is for me.

Tried so many different versions of hairs to be done on the doll, and hardly ever was satisfied with the final outcome. Those tapestry way, with wool and pulling out hair by hair; works fine I guess. Eats a lot of wool, but what you can do with it is either freaking out looking doll or to make it look “decent” is pony-tail(s) or braids.

Then there is a wig making. Sorry to say, but for that am complete idiot. Tried it several times, but each and every doll looked so sad with this helmet looking wig on.

Crocheting “discs” as I call them (small round pieces) and placing one or two on top of the head, as you can see at some of my doll photos in the gallery, worked fine. Liked the results. Making tassels to go with them or braids, and placing them on sides or top of the head….. yes, many possibilities and are easy to make, and at the end doll looks nice. Cute and “dolly”.

I wanted more out of hair! That kept me busy thinking and trying.

I am sure I didn’t invent anything new; specially to those that are in amigurumi world for quite some time, but it is new to me.

For today I made one new pattern that I called BB Dolls. Made few different hair styles so you can see the possibilities that can be done. Encourage all of you to give it a try and play with it for a while. Specially to ones that love dolls as much as I do. Hair making this way is fun! Really is! 😉

The pattern for entire doll I tried to make simplest possible. For some problem might be making legs and body in one peace, but if so, just make two legs and body separated, counting the stitches used in the pattern.

For any questions you might have, I am here, and will be glad to help you.

So here we go with the BB Doll pattern


Sc: Single crochet

ch: Chain

St: Stitch

inv.dec: invisible decrease

Materials you will need:

2 mm crochet hook

8 ply cotton yarn in various colors

4,5 mm round, black, wooden beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

needle for sewing up the body parts together

embroidery thread if you will want to sew on the eyelashes to the doll’s eyes

BBDolls - 6HEAD

CH 6

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 4. 3 2sc in last st. Turn Continue your work stitching around the other side,  Sc 4, 2sc in last st.   (12 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R3: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

R4: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R5: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R6-10: Sc 36

If you are using safety eyes, place them between row 10 and 11, leaving 6 stitches between them.

R11: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 12 times (48 sts)

R12: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next st*, rep 6 times (54 sts)

R13-R17: Sc 54

R18: *Sc 7, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (48 sts)

R19: *Sc 6, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (42 sts)

R20: *Sc 5, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R21: *Sc 4, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R22: *Sc 3, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R23: *Sc 2, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R24: *Sc 1, inv.dec 1*, rep 6 times (12 sts)

Fasten off and stuff head firmly. Stuff little by little and form so you shape the head nicely.


R1: stitch 4sc in magic ring ch1 turn around

(Do not close the ring, chain one and continue stitching backwards, as you would with the flat peace. We will be crocheting the rows here. Every row finish with the chain1, turn around,  and continue stitching in the second stitch from the hook.)

R2: 2sc in each st (8 sts) ch1 turn around

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times. (12sts) ch1 turn around

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (24 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next st*, rep 4 times (28 sts)

R8-13: Sc 28

R14: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next st*, rep 8 times (36 sts)

R15: Sc 36

Ch1 and begin single crochet stitching to the side, toward the top of the head, where magic ring and first row is started.

Reaching the magic ring we will start making bangs.

Slip stitch 1 in the magic ring, chain 10, and return back slip stitching 9 at each stitch on the chain.

Slip stitch again to the magic ring, ch 10, return back slip stitching to 9 stitches on the chain, slip stitch to the magic ring, and repeat 3 more times, or until you create desired number of the bangs. (in my case there are 5).

Finishing last peace of hair, single crochet to the working side of the hair, and continue sc into each last row stitch (14 sts).

Reaching the end, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Here are few samples of what you can do. Some you could see at presentations photo on the start of this post. Would have been to much if I tried to write down each and every pattern for different hair styles I’ve done; but as I said, if you will need any help, feel free to contact me and ask. Will be glad to help you.

Hair we are making in this pattern is the one shown on the first photo published here; look at the last doll in the line. One with light brown hair (yellow and blue dress).

BBDolls - 7

BBDolls - 2BBDolls - 1



R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.


R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

R5: Inv.dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: Inv.dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R7-R16: 9 sc

At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-25: 18 sc

R26: *Inv.dec.1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27-29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body as firm as you can.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.


R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2-6: 6 sc

Change color

R7-R9: 6sc

Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.


R1: 18 Sc in magic ring (18) (don’t close the ring completely)

R2-R3: 18 sc

R4: *2sc in one st, sc next 2* x6 (24)

R5-R6: 24 sc

R7: *2sc in one st, sc next 3sts* x6 (30)

R8-R9: 30 sc

R10: *2sc in one st, sc next 4 sts* x6 (36)

R11: 36 sc

Change color

R12: *ch3, sc in next st* repeat all around

Tie off and hide ends.

Put the dress over the body and sew the body on the head.

Sew on the hair, and finally place and sew the arms (I find it best if you leave 6 stitches looking in front of the dress, between each arm). I also suggest to sew the arms on the dress only. Not only it is easier, but gives you space to sew and hide ends nicely.

And you own BB Doll is done.

I hope you have enjoyed making it, and the hair you have learned will open up a whole new possibilities. Experiment and try different styles. Share what you have learned and teach us something new as well.

Looking forward to see and hear you experiences in making BB Doll. Thank you for staying with me and reading this post. Thank you for following and all kind and sweet comments you always leave behind. Thank you 🙂

BBDolls - 6