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Long hair for Liz the Goth Doll

Long hair pattern for Liz the Goth doll is finished!

Long hair for Liz the Goth Doll

I (think) I’ve sent it to everyone who has purchased Liz the Goth Doll pattern.

Please check your e-mails!

Pattern is  addition to Liz The Goth Doll pattern and and my gift to you.

Wishing you all lots of fun creating short and long version hairs for your dolls!

Vanja

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Liz The Goth Doll

As promised my first pattern is finished!

This week managed to finish Liz the Goth Doll. Liz, together with her friends is really lovely (if I can say so) 🙂

Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB

Liz is another of my simple and rather fast doll projects to make.

She comes with changeable clothes and on top of these fabulous features, most of our little ones like playing with, Liz comes with her own little doll. Little voodoo doll. Little voodoo doll is 5 cm (2″) big and goes really nice with little Liz. Pattern is in photo tutorial form you will find together with your Liz doll pattern.

voodoo done bonus by AmigurumiBB

I tried to write this pattern with as many details as I could remember, that I found very important for all of you to make exactly the same doll as you can see on above photo.

You can make one Liz with different colors, changeable clothes or make many different Liz dolls, each in her own favorite color(s).

I am specially proud of doll’s hair style.

For a long time I wanted to make this particular style, and I am so happy I succeeded in making one so easy and so lovely, that I really hope you’ll enjoy.

And this is not all!!

After this pattern was finished I worked on little key chain Liz for my nieces school backpack. She wanted doll with long hair, so I adjusted little Liz’s hair to create longer one this time. This is what I came up with: Little Liz doll by AmigurumiBB Little Liz doll by AmigurumiBB While regular Liz doll is 21 cm (8 inches) tall. This little one, worked in thread and with 1,5 mm hook ended up half original doll size. I smudged and decorated her with crayons, markers and glittering nail polish. 

Pattern for Liz the Goth Doll is available in my Etsy shop and you can find the link right here

I would like to use a chance to announce that I’ll be going to make additional free of charge bonus to this pattern, and it will be the version for long hair, as you can see on little Liz I made for my niece.

For that reason I would like to ask everyone who will purchase the pattern, to leave me message with e-mail address where wishes to receive this long hair pattern. The pattern will be finished by Monday, when I will start sending it.

Few more photos of Liz and her friends…

Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the Goth doll by AmigurumiBB Liz the goth doll by AmigurumiBB

Hope you like this little one! Next week starting with one piece doll explained in details and working on new free pattern to share with you soon.

Wishing you all wonderful weekend!

Hugs

Vanja

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Colorful Lana Doll(s)

I would like you to meet these lovely and colorful Lana dolls.

Lana Doll

Created this pattern two weeks ago as addition to one book on small crochet toys and dolls (that I will talk about some time in the future). This is one of two patterns I made for this book. The second pattern will show and share with you soon, and both will be available only through the shop. So far you can find it in my Etsy shop.

If you liked BB dolls, than you will looove these little ones. Easy to make, and long lasting! I have tried to come up with

  • the doll that can fit any little girls bag or back pack,
  • durable doll that can be played with for many years,
  • doll that can be washed,
  • doll which can change her clothes/shoes….
  • doll girls will love!

So far, both of my nieces, 4 and 7 years of age love it. Hope your little ones will feel the same!

Lana Dolls1Lana Dolls

Before I finish for today, wanted to mention that Flip from Maya the Bee movie is progressing pretty nice. So far missing only the hat to finish the pattern. If times allows me, he might be finished and pattern shared next week. Fingers crossed!

Here is little preview on how the Flip looks so far.

Flip

Have a wonderful day and happy working Monday tomorrow.

Hugs

Vanja

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Brave, Princess Merida

Hello dear friends,

This week presenting beautiful princess Merida.

Jo Merriman made this adorable doll based on my FairyDoll pattern, and you will all agree, she made wonderful job designing Merida. Thank you Jo for this great idea and pattern you share with us!

Merida by Jo Merriman

Materials you will need to make this doll can be any of your choice yarn with matching hook.

Yarn in flash color – peach or pinkish one will work great for princess Merida

For dress use some petrol green color, darker green or blue, all will work nice.

Bow and quiver make in brown (some leftover yarns will work well) – same color you can use to make Merida’s shoes.

Jo added tiny bits of beige on top of the dress and sleeves.

And orange to make Merida’s beautiful hair.

Darning needle for sewing, stuffing of your choice

2 black beads 4-5 mm round ones for the eyes.

 

Abbreviations:

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

Hdc – half double crochet

Dec – decreasing stitch

Inc – increasing stitch

 

Head

(flesh color yarn)

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

 

Legs & body

(You will need flash color yarn, brown-for shoes, and start with brown for shoes, green or similar for dress)

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body is the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

Start with brown

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

R4: 18 sc

Change color to flash

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

 

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

 

Work with white or color you will use for dress.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: stitch around both legs making 18 stitches count. (18)

R18-R22

R23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 Either change to a separate color as in photos or change to flesh color. Sc6, insert hook in r below (1st pic) yarn over and pull long loop, insert into same sc and create a second long loop into same sc(2nd pic), sc 5. 13sc.

R28. Change to flesh colour if not done in r27,sc 6 invisible dec 1(dec using front loops only) sc5. 12sc

R29 12 sc.

Pic 3 is the completed doll body changing colour at r27 and again at R28..,,

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Photos below are showing what is done R26-R29

color change for top of dress part1

 This pic is r27, placing hook into r25 whereas the other is just r below. This one I didn’t dec in R28 and just sc 13 in the last 2 rounds, as you can see I didn’t think it made a difference,

color change top of dress part2

color change top of dress part3

dress finished

Arms

Start with flash color

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

Change color to one used for dress

 

R5-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Sew the arms on sides of the body, where neck area,

Jo’s tip: use a running stitch of the tan colour at where the hand and sleeve start and about half way up at about elbow

 

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the

body, starting at R23

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R23, ch1

R1 inc18 (36 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R24 sc 42

R43 sc in front loops only

Tie off hide end.

 

Bow

In brown color yarn

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc4

R12 inc1, sc3 (5 sts)

R13-R16 sc5

R17 inc1, sc4 (6 sts)

R18-R21 sc6

R22 dec1, sc4 (5 sts)

R23-R26 sc5

R27 dec1, sc3 (4 sts)

 

R28-R37 sc4

Tie off leaving long end for closing the last round nicely.

Cut the wire little bit shorter than the bow is. Secure the ends with little bit of tape or glued yarn over wire ends.

Place the wire inside the bow. Fold the piece so it forms the bow shape.

 

With silver or white or beige color thread make bow string.

 

Knot it on one side, wrap few times, stretch over the bow from one end to opposite, tie knot, wrap few times.

To secure ends you can either glue them or sew them inside the bow.

 

Bow made with pipe cleaner:

the bow is a 12inch pipe cleaner folded in half and shaped as a bow. using brown yarn tie a knot near bend, wrap yarn around tight to the end and then back down over knot, next bit a little tricky, sc a row down length of bow to the next bend, wrap yarn around to the end, tie a knot and wrap over knot, I put a dab of glue at both ends has yarn tends to fall off when wrapping, this took a few attempts to correct as it can be a little tricky. the bow string I used some very fine silver thread, tie and trimmed a knot at each end wrapping yarn a few times around the knot for picture effect.

 

Quiver and belt

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R4 sc6

R5 inc1, sc5 (7 sts)

R6-R10 sc7

Ch20 (making belt), wrap the belt around Merida’s waist and sc to first chain stitch made. Tie off , hide ends.

Arrows: place some shaped pins inside the quiver

You can also make arrows with some tiny feathers.

 

Hair:

For the hair you will need orange yarn, o

ne size bigger crochet hook (than the one used to crochet head and doll)

Piece of cardboard 6 x 9 inc (15,5 x 23 cm),

A piece of paper and scotchtape

 

Hair cap (or base we’ll use to attach hair)

Work with hook size bigger than used when making head. This will make the cap fit the head nicely.

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the cap on the head.

 

Making crocheted swatch. It is worked in rows. Ch1 and turn after each row.

Ch41

R1 sc40

R2-R17 sc40

Don’t tie off,

Dampen the swatch made, put it on a towel and leave to air dry naturally over night.

 

When dried:

Unravel the dry swatch wrapping it around the paper and card together lengthways, when finished push one end of the loops together till approx 2-3 inches and place tape over yarn to attach to paper, overlap tape onto paper, remove the cardboard, do not cut loops at the loose side! then I hand stitched a row of small

backstitch across the tape making sure to catch all the yarn. I made a couple of rows over just to make sure the stitching was firm. I attached cap to dolls head then the hair, pin in place from the front then to the back, the row of back stitch acts as a parting guide in the hair, so for mine I placed it over left eye at front going towards middle of head at the back. I then used same yarn as hair and made small back stitches over thread attaching hair to cap. Then cut a few loops at a time, depending on were you attached the hair will depend on if you cut the hair in the middle of the loops or to the side like mine, I left mine loose but the hair could be trimmed once fitted.

 

 

Ears

R1 sc5 into a ring but don’t close ring,

R2 ch4 sl st first stitch made, tighten the ring, 1 sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st.

Fasten off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Sew all parts together and your princess Merdia is done!

Here is mine!  I can’t even express how much I enjoyed making her!

Merida

Hope this post and our Facebook friends as well as all of you who will come to see this post and leave the message, will encourage Jo to finish what she started with creating other Disney princesses, we can share and make.

Hip, hip hooraaay for Jo!

 

 

Thank you all for stopping by and taking time reading this post. Hope you like it. Looking forward to hear from you and see you Meridas soon!

 

Vanja

 

p.s.

added .pdf of this pattern under Free Patterns page for your easier download and use.

 

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Mermaid dolls

Hello dear friends. Finally managed to finish the little ones. Dolls were easy, but I promised to make tutorial on easy way to needle sculpt the face and added one more about crocheted doll’s hair that I hope many will enjoy as well.

BB Mermaids

Since BB dolls were published and the pattern released I have have been asked many times how were different hair styles done. That is why I

made this very simple pattern for dolls hair, where I have tried to explain what you have to look and pay attention to when adding crocheting hair on any doll’s head. That is basics and I hope will help many of you that weren’t so sure about how to start and how to make crocheted dolls hair.

Understanding this basic pattern and making at least two of these mermaid hairs, I am sure you will become familiar and free with trying out some of your own creative hair styles and maybe even free making your own little dolls and patterns.

The pattern on crocheted hair basics you can find under Help pages and tutorials.

There you will also find tutorial I have made as addition to these little mermaids that will show you, step by step on how to easy needle sculpt dolls head to make her smiling.

Today will share simple pattern on how to make your little mermaids. These are very special mermaids! When they are outside the water they look as any ordinary girl, but the second they enter the water they turn into beautiful mermaids enjoying the depths of the deepest seas, swimming with whales and dolphins. Decorating hair with starfish and pearls.

BB Mermaids

 Materials needed:

2 mm crochet hook

DK 100% cotton in flash color of your choice, color of your chice for the hair, swimming suit and mermaid fin/body

4 mm round black beads for eyes

stuffing of your choice

darning needle

glue (optional) for extra reinforcing the hair and top of the swimming suit.

Abbreviations (US terminology used):

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Bpsc – back post single crochet

Ch – chain

R – round or row

 

Finished doll size:

Around 19 cm / 8 inches

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12 sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54sts)

R14-R17 sc 54

R18 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48

R20 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 dec7, sc4, dec1 (12 sts)

Add some more stuffing if needed, tie off .

 

Hair patterns of three mermaids

 

Goldie locks

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 *ch13, starting from 4th ch stitch from hook, inc10 with dc sts, skip 3 stitches on the fundamental row (R12), sl st in 4th st* repeat around (before the last ch13 you will have only 3 stitches left, skip 2sts and sl st in this 3rd, repeat chain 13 and 10 inc dc over chain made to finish this row.

Continue stitching single crochet on the side of the hair piece (working towards the top – where magic ring is)

Sc in magic ring, ch23, starting from 4th chain stitch, increase 20 chain stitches with dc; *sc in magic ring, ch10, sl st9 over the chain made* x2

Continue sc on the other side of the hair piece (from magic ring towards the end of the side made), tie off leave long end for sewing the hair on the head, or hide ends if you decide to glue the hair on the head.

 

Pink curls

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close the magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch3, dc2 in each stitch across

R13 *ch3, turn, sl st to next st* across

When reaching end, continue in this manner ch3, slst next around side towards magic ring,

In magic ring sc1, ch13, sl st to 4th ch stitch from end, *ch3, sl st to next st*…across (repeat 3 times in order to make 3 fringes)

Note: 3 fringes will make pretty mess in front. Yo can make just 2 of them, or you can make them standard way, by slip stitching instead of chaining 3 and sl st. Possibilities are many)

 

After fringes are made, continue with *ch3, sl st next st* across the other side of the hair piece.

When reaching end, tie off and leave long end for sewing (if you will sew the hair on the head) or tie off and hide ands if you are gluing the hair on the head.

 

Green braids

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Do not close tha magic ring

R2 inc5 (10)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R8-R12 sc35

R13 ch21, sc20 (over chain made), sc to next st on the base (R12) repeat ch21 x2

Skip one, *hdc4 in the next st, skip 1, sl st next, skip one* repeat until you make 7 shells, then repeat ch21-sc20 for the last 3 sts

Sc on the side, stitching up, towards magic ring, make 3 fringes (or as desired) with ch10, sl st 9, finish with sc over next side (towards bottom of the hair piece) tie off leaving long end for sewing or tie off and hide end if your hair will be glued to the head.

Legs (make2)

With color of your choice (one you’ve chosen for your mermaid)

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

Change yarn color to flash

R4 bpsc18

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Leave long end of your mermaid color (one you used for shoe to sew the flip-flops top or to add top of the shoe)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off. Stuff the leg.

 

Body

With mermaid color yarn.

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

R1 Slip stitch to one stitch and stitch around connecting legs with closest two stitches, making total of 18 stitches around

(I always like to slip stitch to the stitch that is closest to next leg, so I can connect legs right at beginning and simply stitch around).

R2 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R3-R4 sc24

Change color to flash

R5 sc24

R6 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R7-R11 sc18

R12 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R13-R14 sc12

Stuff the body nice and firm. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and head together.

 

Swimming suit top

R1 sc6 in magic ring (leave about 15-20 cm yarn before making the ring)

R2 sl st last to first st, ch3, dc2 in next st, dc2 to next, ch3, sl st to next st, ch3, 2dc to next st, 2dc to next st, ch3, sl st to starting sl st.

Tie off leaving long end.

Wrap the yarn around middle three times, pulling on every round, in order to make nice bow looking piece.

Then using both yarn ends make a knot on the back side of the bow. Cut them to desired length but enough to tie around mermaids neck and make a little bow.

You can sew or glue this top on mermaids chest.

BB Mermaids

Fin

Make two little fins from R1-R9

R1 sc4 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R4 sc8

R5 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R7 sc18

R8 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R9 dec6 (6 sts)

While making second find, do not tie off, but connect second fin and stitch around both making 12 sts

R10 bring both fins together and stitch around making 12 sts

From the next row, continue stitching using back loops only

R11-R12 sc12

R13 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R14-R15 sc18

R16 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R18 sc24

R19 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R20-R34 sc30

R35 *skip one st, 5hdc in next one, skip one, sl st next* around

Tie off hide end. Your mermaid body with fin is done.

 

You can add some beads or bows or shiny threads over front loops. You can also stitch across in spiral using some nice simple edging pattern. It is to your choice. I left it simple but possibilities are endless, and do not hesitate to experiment and add your own touch to it.

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R11 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the head.

 

By now all of your body pieces are done, and your head is needle sculpt. Sew all of them together nicely.

Put the mermaids outfit on your doll and she is ready to play with.

 

BB Mermaids

 

I hope you have enjoyed making your mermaid and that you will make at least two of them.

What I hope more is that your daughters, granddaughters, nieces or little girls next door will enjoy them even more.

 

Vanja

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Waldorf inspired doll

 

 

 

I must say that this is my favorite doll and pattern I worked on so far. This doll is just a treasure. She is soft and so darling. The size I reached by this one (30 cm -12 inches) is little bit bigger than the rest of my dolls but that makes her even more beautiful.

 
I know many of you will give it a try. Specially moms and grandmothers who grew up with one of these jersey sewed dolls with yarn hair. Here is your chance to refresh your childhood memories and opportunity to crochet one Waldorf inspired doll for your daughters, granddaughters or even for yourself.

 

Here is the pattern I hope you will enjoy

Waldorf inspired doll1Waldorf inspired doll2Waldorf inspired doll3Waldorf inspired doll4Waldorf inspired doll5Waldorf inspired doll6Waldorf inspired doll7Waldorf inspired doll8Waldorf inspired doll9Waldorf inspired doll10Waldorf inspired doll11Waldorf inspired doll12Waldorf inspired doll13

Isn’t she just lovely? Both are 😀 I really enjoy these dolls and hope you will too.

Waldorf inspired dolls by AmigurumiBB

Thank you for your time.

Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and relaxing weekend to come.

 

Vanja

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Bratz inspired doll

I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.

First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then

as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!

At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.

First will show you my Bratz doll.

BratzBB curly hair front

As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.

Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):

http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi

on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html

This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there).  It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.

You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.

Patterns are:

1. Basic Bratz doll body

2. How to create hair from satin ribbon

3. How to connect limbs to the body

Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉

Lolly front

 

This is my Lolly!

lolly sideLolly back

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.

Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.

 

Hugs

 

Vanja

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Zombi me…

Last week I announced doll I was working on,  zombi Vanja; doll I tried to make based on the pattern provided by Jennifer from SquirrelPicnic.

In most of European countries,  the February is month of carnivals.

“Carnival typically involves a public celebration or parade combining some elements of a circus, mask and public street party. People often dress up or masquerade during the celebrations, which mark an overturning of daily life.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival)

I didn’t attend a carnival this year, but in honor to these festive days I made this doll, and off course,  because I liked post and pattern Jennifer has made about her two zombies in love 😉

All credits for the pattern goes to Squirrel Picnic and Jennifer!

Here is zombi me

Zombi Vanja - AmigurumiBBThis doll was made from my second try.

FIrst doll I started to crochet in thread which I ran off. As I was familiar with the pattern when doing this, second doll was easier for me to improvise here and there.

Changes I made were only on the head. This doll has no brain 😀

Thought she has got the hair, brain would not be seen anyways, so left it out.

Another change did with feet, but only when it comes to round with BLO.

Instead of them I used Bpsc (back post single crochet) what gave shoes (I decided to do instead of bare feet) more stability.

Open wound, as you can see, added only on knee area.

The blood and scratches on the arm and face I painted with red markers.

Aha! What I tried on this doll was eyelashes made from textile. All of you that like making dolls, textile eyelashes are “must do”. One of these days will try to show you how it is done.

This was my first try to make textile eyelashes so they didn’t end exactly how I wanted, but  now I know more and will share it with you.

Conclusion: the pattern was easy to follow. With photos Jennifer provided even the novice in making dolls will find it easy to understand and finish this doll from head to toe, including all the details.

What I was impressed was the brain pattern Jennifer created. There is little bit work with it as you have to increase and increase, and increase some more, but once finished, you end up holding little brain in your hand that looks so realistic.

Pattern is great and I recommend everyone to try it. If not now, save it for Halloween as these zombies make nice addition.

They are soft and tender dolls that are really nice to hold. And are pretty big ones as well.

My doll didn’t end as big as Jennifer’s (26 cm ⁄10.24 inches tall), but still ended up soft and makes great addition to collection.

Once again thank you Jennifer for creating this great pattern.

♡ Vanja

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Mooshka dolls

This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.

Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.

Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Mooshka dolls2Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.

To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. Mooshka-orangeMooshka-side viewMooshka-back viewAs you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.Mooshka-blueI have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.

Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).

 

Materials needed:

Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress

The rest of the doll  (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.

Matching hook

Stuffing

Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.

Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.

If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).

Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.

Embroidery needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link  http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

 

Head

I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.

With yarn in flash color of your choice

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R10-R19 sc60

R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)

R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)

R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)

R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)

R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)

R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck

Neck area

R1 sc18

R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R9-R10 Sc60 x2

 

Forming arms

Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)

R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count

R2-R21 Sc15

Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)

R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc1*  x5 (10 sts)

R24 Sc10

R25 Dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.

 

Next arm:

Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm

Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)

 

Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.

I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.

 

Body

Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.

Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.

 

R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)

R2 Sc34

R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)

(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)

R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)

R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)

R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)

R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)

R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)

R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)

Change color for panties

R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)

R11-R16 Sc42

R17 *Dec1, sc5*  x6 (36 sts)

Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing  last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.

First we will sew the body.

Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)

Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).

Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.

 

Legs x2

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4-R5 Sc24

R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)

Change color (shoe is done)

R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)

R8-R32 Sc18

Stuff legs nice and firm

Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.

Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.

Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.

Hair

Color of your choice

Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)

R8-R17 Sc40

R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)

R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)

R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)

R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)

R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)

R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)

R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)

R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)

R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)

Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)

sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc  on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.

Pony tails can be made many ways.

We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.

 

Simple buns (blue haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 sc12

R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the bun well

R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.

 

Longer buns (orange haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the first part

R4 inc6 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12

R8 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff second ball

R9 inc6 (12 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R11-R12 sc18

R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R14 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing

Dress

Ch29

Sc28

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)

Dc42

Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)

Dc56

Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)

Sc32

Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)

Dc48

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)

Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds

Ch2, dc64 x5

Change color

Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around

Eyes and creating dolls face

Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.

To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.

If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.

 

Crocheted eyes:

With black embroidery thread

Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch

Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown

Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)

Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.

For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.

For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.

Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.

Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.

You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.

You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.

Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.

 

Place the lips two rounds below the nose.

Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.

Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).

Mooshka dolls

And that it is! Your Moosha is done! 

Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.

Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!

 

♡ Vanja 

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Sara, Lara and Sophie dolls

These three dolls were one of my first attempts when started crocheting dolls. Experimented a lot with different head shapes, hair styles. BB dolls came out of these little ones.

SaraSophieLaraHave ben asked recently more than just few times for the pattern on how to make these dolls. Instead of writing separate mails and sending them, decided to share the pattern for all and make it available as all of my patterns so far.

This one is really easy and fast to do. For those that have tried making BB dolls will see that only the shape of the head and hair is different. 

Suggest you work with fine cotton yarns (DK to be the maximum weight to use), together with 2-2,5 mm hook (depending what yarn you will work with).

Dolls are small, only 5 inches (12 cm) tall, and were created as pocket or girl back pack/bag  dolls. Ones girls can carry all around.  

I don’t have all the photos made to show you all of dolls I have made in such way, but they turn out when crazy colors are used for hair; like green, pink, purple. It gives them this bright and cheerful appearance that girls like very much.

Let us start with the pattern (so you can get started making them )!

Abbreviations  (US terms):

R – round

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch (stitches)

inc – increase (two stitches in one stitch)

dec – decrease (invisible decrease or two stitches together – I used invisible decrease making these dolls)

**  – repeat what you find between

HEADhead

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 3sc in one stitch, continue working around chain – sc3, 2scin one stitch (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 sc48 sts

R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10-R13 sc54 sts

R14 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R15 sc48 sts

R16 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R17 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

start stuffing the head at this point.

R21 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off, finish stuffing the head nice and firm

HAIR

In the photos below, I made sample of two same size hair pieces, placing them evenly on each side of the head. You can play and make them differently. You can make one bigger, the second one smaller making hair look as combed on side. You can make one big one on top of the head with pony tails on each side or just one on top of it. It is really up to your wishes, likes and desires.

Here is just a sample on how it goes for you to understand on how to play later.

head with hair prepared1head with hair prepared

 Hair is done out of two “discs” and two tessels.

Discs (make2):

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st,  continue working around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hair piece on the head later.

Tassels

Proceed shown on the photos.

I used an old embroidery thread cardboard, that was about 3 cm wide (1,3 inches) to make a tassels. So before everything cut a piece of cardboard of desired length to use to make tassel.

in inchesin cm

Once you prepare the cardboard or anything you can wrap your yarn over, wrap the yarn over the “tassel maker” 30 times (less or more… depends on how thin or thick your yarn is or how you want your tassel to look). I wrapped 30 times.tassel ready

Cut the yarn leaving long end and thread the needle (as seen in photo above).

Now what you have to do is push the needle through the middle of wrapped yarn (close to cardboard you go). Once gone through, make a knot you will tighten when pulling the yarn.tassel ready for tying uptassel wrapped - first knot madetassel tied on cardboard

Now take the tassel of the cardboard and make few more knots like this, pushing through the middle of the tassel, making knot and pulling.

Once done, you will see your tassel becoming firm at the end where you have sewed. Now try to push the needle through the yarn on top of the tassel (one you sewed while making knots). make three-four knots on top of it.tassel off the cardboardFinished tasselYour tassel is finished and ready to be sewed on head now. 

If you will find it difficult to follow (because I am very bad describing and specially bad taking photos) please try to google on how to make tassel in order to find instructions for your better understanding.

 Once done with all four pieces, pin them all on the head the way you like and sew all around.

In order to make one big piece of “disc” on top of the head, start making the disc as described in above pattern but increase evenly every round by 6,until you make 54 stitches total count. You can add two more rows 54 to finish the piece and make it fit nicely the head.

For one bigger one smaller; start as described in the pattern above, bigger disc make with last round stitch count 48, and the smaller counting 24 or 30 stitches.

LEGS & BODYfinished body

Make legs first, then join them together and continue making body.

Leg1:

Start with shoe color of your choice

6 Sc in magic ring (6 sts)

R1 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)

R2  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 sc18

R4  dec6, sc6 (12 sts)

R5  dec3, sc6 (9sts)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

Change color of the thread and continue with R7.

R6-R15: sc9

Tie off; stuff the leg.

Repeat the same for Leg2

Body

At this point stuff the leg and bring both legs together. Fingers/heals pointing same directions.

R16  Stitch all around making 18 stitches around.

R17-24 sc18

R25 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R26-28: sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body nice and firm.

ARMS X2

Sc6 in magic ring

R1-R5 sc6

Change color

R6-R9 sc6

Tie of and leave long end for sewing the arms to the body.

DRESS

R1  Sc18 in magic ring (don’t close the ring completely) or stitch over piece of bow or yarn you can tie in front later

R2-R3 18 sc

R4: *inc1, sc2* x6 (24)

R5-R6: 24 sc

R7: *inc1, sc3* x6 (30)

R8-R9: 30 sc

R10: *inc1, sc4* x6 (36)

R11: 36 sc

Change color

R12: *ch2, skip one, sl st* repeat all around

Tie off and hide ends.

Assembling the pieces together

assembling the doll

Put the dress over the body and sew head-body parts together. Add some stuffing between head, body so the head doesn’t flop around. Sew on the arms.  When done with body, you can start sewing the hair pieces together. Place and pin discs on top of the head. Sew them nicely all around. Place and pin tassels the way you want them to be and sew them nicely. 

Designing the face:

Embroider the eyes or if you are using safety ones place them in between rows 9-10 (embroider over round 10).

Embroider mouth right below round 12.

Your new doll is done! Quick and easy, isn’t it!?

I hope you will enjoy making her and your daughters and granddaughters will love playing with her.

Thank you for staying with me!

 

Wishing you all wonderful weekend.

Hugs to all,

Vanja

Posted on

One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll.  Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking!  He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.One piece boy

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

one piece boy

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25  shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it.  Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!

Trousers

ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from behind.one piece boy

Hair

This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:

ch21

R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .

Hat

Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:

Body

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end

Head

sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts)  – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.

Tail

ch5

R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉DSC01760

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,

Vanja

 

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One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage.  At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉Flower Girl  - One piece flat head doll -Part II - clothes pattern

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us.  This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll

Flower Girl - One piece Flat Doll

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.

Dress:

You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.

ch16

R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5  -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.

Hat

– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.

Shoes:

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.

ch31

R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration

ch21

R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll. one piece doll - flower girl part2 - how to make clothes - free pattern

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!