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Smurfalicious Smurfs Smurfed…

out of my craft room! 

For entire last week have worked on this Smurf(s) pattern and finally they are ready to be presented!

So far only three are finished.

Smurfette, Papa Smurf and Clumsy

Smurfs

Was fun working on them. Hope it will be fun for you as well. Not to mention the happiness of children who will have chance to play with the.

Still have to make two new naughty Smurfs, from Smurf2 movie….but about them when I find the right yarn color and make them.

The pattern is ready and you can find it here:

Smurf Pattern

There is also tutorial on how to make Smurf’s shoes, as I have worked on them as making slippers kind of way; toes, heel, top…. For that reason, to make it easier for you with this part and as suggested by dear friend Araceliz who was testing the pattern, I have made this photo tutorial as well.

You can download it here:

Smurf Shoe Pattern

I would also like to mention that Smurf and The Smurfs are copyrighted characters. This pattern is for personal use only! Please keep that in mind.

Have fun making them, and have your children and grandchildren have fun playing with them!

Smurfs2

Smurfs3

Wishing you all smurfest end of this week, and smurfalicious weekned!

Hugs to all,

Vanja

 

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Loopsy Doll Dress to crochet

New dress for Oopsie doll to crochet. Great one thanks to http://method13.wordpress.com/2013/07/11/loopy-doll-dress-to-crochet/

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BB Boys

 

Finally we have got the BB Boys!!!BB Boys1

Two best friends enjoying to play together! 🙂

This is the second one of my promises made last week. Still have one more to finish to be done with them all (Oopsie doll’s new outfit to make) 😉

if it wasn’t for Millylyly, who knows when these two would be created. I am glad she asked me to design boy’s hair. For starters made these two versions. Curly and strait, which are the two most common. Made in different colors, playing a little bit with length (if one likes) will give quite several hair styles for your dolls.

Boys are called BB Boys, because the head and the body (together with legs) are done the same way as BB Dolls.  Differences made were at arms length; where these two have total count of 10 rows (by 6 stitches in each row), and instead of dress these two are wearing trousers; and off course HAIR!

For the time being don’t have the pattern for the trousers I trust would make good results each time made. Darker blue trousers were done with 1,75 mm needle and finer yarn and those look good and fit good. The the second ones (lighter blue) I made with same weight yarn I used for dolls, changed the row/stitch count to fit the body, but am not satisfied with result.

This week will work on the trousers pattern and will have it for you next.

Have to be honest that was afraid how to get this “boy’s” face expression using 4 mm black, wooden beads as I used for BB dolls, and after all using same pattern that was created for girl dolls in mind.

As you can see, boy’s eyes I placed closer. Instead of leaving 8 stitches space between them, they have only 4. Added embroidered nose, but this is optional.

One more photo of boys playing before we continue on hair pattern.

BB Boys

For both of the hair bases, classic oval shape of 30 stitches count needs to be done. I have made mine this way.

For both hairs is the same! Oval shape, 30 stitches count row before making the stylish hair cut!

ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue around the chain, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1,sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

 

Brown hair boy:

You will be making hairs out of each stitch of all 30 stitches row count.

Hairs are done our usual way, chain and slip stitches  return. Once done with the base of the hair (30 stitches oval reached) continue the hairs following this chain(s) count

make:

12 x ch11 (those will make back of the head hairs) – starting from second stitch from the hook slip stitch following 10 stitches, reaching the end, slip stitch to next stitch on the base row and ch11 (repeat this for all of 12 stitches ch11, before continuing to ch10…..)

2 x ch10 -side hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch7  – front hairs

2 x ch8 – front hairs

2 x ch9 – side hairs

2 x ch10 – side hairs

4 x ch11 – back hairs

Finish off! Leave long end for sewing the hair to the head. You have made 30 hairs!

For the yellow hair style – curly one;

Once the base of the hair is made (as per the pattern on how to make the base and oval shape, above),

continue making curls in every second stitch of the base row.

here is how to do that. As you finish R4, slip stitch to the first stitch of R5,

ch16, starting at second stitch fro the hook inc15.

Once you reach the “base” slip stitch 2 following stitches, ch16 and repeat inc15

Here is the hair “length” count you have to do in order to get the right shape.

7 x ch16

6 x ch11

2 x ch16

Finish off leaving long end for sewing the hair to head.

Once done, sew the base of the hair to the head. Arrange the hairs the way you would like them to be/stay and sew or glue them. I didn’t sew the hairs! I used hot glue to fix them on the head.

If you will have problems understanding how the hair is made, let me know and will try to help. The procedure is very easy, but somehow I always make it sooooo complicated 😀

I am here to help you out, so do not hesitate to ask!

BBBoys2

Wishing you all great end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

 

Regards,

Vanja

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How to paint Fairy doll’s eyes

 

I am not sure if I ever made post on Monday(s)!!!  Not really a Monday person! 😀

Last week spend lots of time playing with my nieces, so had to hurry to catch up and make done what I promised would be finished sooooonest possible!

For now have made this little tutorial on how to paint eyes for Fairy doll (or any other doll of your choice).

Tried to make nice photos, to show you how it looks when painting is done on actual doll and yarn, but it ended complete disaster. Me and photo taking – zero points!

Will keep on trying to take nice photographs every time I will paint the eyes, hoping soon I will be able to show you how it is made, or I make it. For now have few bad photos and step by step drawing with instructions what is needed to be done at each stage in order to make the eyes.

First of all, as I mentioned in one of my earlier posts, you will need paint for textile or fabric. I used Marabu paints and 3/0 brush (that I found in the store when buying the paints – was the thinnest one I could find at that time). Here is the photo of the paints used, for those that are not familiar with what to look for.

Textile PaintOnce you have all materials ready draw the eyes you would like your doll to have. Draw it on a piece of paper you will keep a side and use as reminder, guidance while drawing on dolls head.

You can look for inspiration by reading few children books, watching cartoons… I have made few drawings on how eyes can look. You can use these as well. These are, of’course, type of eyes I like to use.

Few eye designsIf you can see, I draw them on square paper, so you can see how many stitches to leave between, and how big to make them. For fairy dolls, I tried to make them 3 rows high and 2-2 1/5 stitches wide, trying to keep them separated by leaving 3 stitches in between.

Drawing this I made mistake outlining the iris. When painting on crocheted head it is very hard to make an outline, specially inside the eye, so drop that line. Color the iris with desired color, but do not bother to try to outline it with black, as it might end up as disaster.

Once you have decided about eye design you will use on doll, and after you made a little drawing to give you a hand while painting, take the doll’s head.

On fairy doll is easy to paint the eyes, because the whole front face  designed while crocheting the head.

By this time you have already sewed the nose on the very middle of the front face, between rows 13 and 14. Eyes will be painted in between rows 9 and 13

On the photo below you can see how I pinned eye’s edges and then made an outline with the pencil.

Measure before drawing

outline with pencilOnce you have the outline ready, and it looks fine to you, you can start with painting. First you have to paint the base, and it is done with white. Make sure to paint inside the stitches as well. If you will work with tiny brush, adding little bit of paint every time,  you will be able to stick the brush in between stitches in order to cover all the area. While painting, important is, to be patient. Take your time. Painting the eyes can’t be done in minutes. You will have to wait for the paint to dry before starting with another color.

The most important step is deciding what eyes will look like and making the outline on the head. The rest is easy, as all you will do is to follow the drawing and make progress by adding different color at the time.

Once you have made the base, pained it in white and once it has dried. You will see it is dry once it is not shiny any more (wet looking). You can double check it by slightly touching the surface to see if it sticks or leaves color on your finger. I let my layers to dry for an hour or more.

Once the white paint is dry, you can start adding the color. At this point the iris of an eye is to be painted. Choose the color you will use for the eye, look at the drawing you made, check where to apply the color, take little bit of paint at time and paint the iris. Here is the last photo that I have made, and hardly can show the color I applied. That is why I made a drawing of this tutorial I will post the end  with step by step repeating the whole process.

Painted colorAfter the color dries, using black and all that is black is done.

Using black color you will paint the middle of the eye, with soft brush strokes try to make the outline, all around the eye, make few eyelashes on the upper side, and if you like you can ad one of two of them on the lower eye part as well.

After this part, with adding black is done, leave the doll to dry very well. The last touch is to add sparks to give the eye, kind of alive look.  You will see that the spark changes the way eyes look completely.

After adding the sparks. Making eyes is done! Let it dry completely!

Here is the short tutorial in drawings I have made for you (before I make decent photo tutorial on how I am painting the eyes)!

1. Make your drawing! 

Draw your eyes on a piece of paper2. Measure and draw outline using pencil on doll’s head

Otuline with pencil3. Paint inside the outline in white

Paint the base in white4. Paint the iris (look at your drawing – pant)

Paint colored eye part5. Paint black  – middle of eyes, paint outline, eyelashes

Paint black6. Add white sparks

Add white sparksDoll’s eyes are painted! 😀

I hope this little tutorial did help some of you. I am here for any assistance you might need. Feel free to ask.

Wishing you happy Monday and rest of the week!

Vanja

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fairy Dolls

As I said in the title, new fairies were born at my house this week 😀

Fairies

I have really enjoyed every second of this week so far! Making Fairies is more than making crocheted dolls it is making fantasy world come true. Making magic!

Not all the time making dolls make me smile while I am working. This was more like playing and loving it! 😀

Looking at them, all three like this, together, even though they are fairies, and good ones, they seem as they’ve done something wrong and begging for forgiveness 😀

Good news is, I have finished the Fairy house, and have made two more fairies finishing the pattern for this doll as well. The fairies you have seen and here is the house, ready and waiting for my niece to come.

Fairy houseFairy house

There is furniture inside, but the door started to crack and had to glue them in order to keep everything in one piece. Was hard for me to make a photo to show you interior of the house. With 0,4 mm wire I made tiny chair, table and baldehin bed. added seed beads in pink and purple, pink tulle for baldehin. Heart shaped carpet in white felt on the floor, tiny little pink felt pillow and blanket. Two paintings I glued on the walls….

It is cute. All is very tiny. Chair is less than 1 cm high so you can imagine what kind of work that was.

Every window has this fake glass (made out of clear plastic) so peaking can be done from the outside. Hardly, but hey…it is fairy inside and they are shy 😉

Will let you know what my niece will say when she sees the house!

Think we can continue with our fairies and the pattern. As you can see there are three different hair styles and I will try to give you pattern on how to make all of them. Possibilities on making the fairy are really endless. With this basic pattern and little of your imagination you can do miracles. And I really hope you will! Hope you will enjoy every second creating magic in your own home, making one of these cute ones.fairies

Let us begin!

For the fairies I have used 2 mm crochet hook and Patons 100% cotton yarn, DK.

They ended about 16 cm tall

I also used golden and silver thread to add sparkle to the wings. Used some glitter on centers of the flowers I have added as details on hair or shoes.

You will also need little bit of liquid fabric starch to harden the wings and to form hair into better shape (I used fabric starch on ears as well).

Doll is made in continuous rounds (head, legs, body, arms)

If you will find anything you don’t understand in the pattern, let me know so can help you out.

Fairy Doll

Head

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 Inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *Inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8-R12  sc42

R13 inc12, sc30 (54 sts) – increasing part (inc12) will be your front face. Part where nose will be sewed and eyes placed (right above row)

R14-R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc3* x10 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (20 sts)

At this point stuff the head best you can. Stuff it firmly to fill all the gaps around R13-17. There should be no empty spaces.

R22 dec8, sc4 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff more if needed.

Sew the nose on the middle of row14, through 2 vertical stitches

Ears (make 2)

R1 sc5 in magic ring

Ch4 on 5th stitch made sl st1, sc1, hdc1 (to chain made)

R2 sc4, sl st1

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears will be sewn, on sides of the head.  Starting row14 –  16 (downwards) and two stitches on row 16 towards back of the ear. You have to stitch 4 stitches in circle shape.

Legs & body

We will be making legs first, then joining them together and continuing with the body part that will at the same time make base for the dress.

Legs and body are the same pattern as used for BB dolls.

Leg1:

R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

R3:  *2sc in one st, sc1* x6 (18)

If you wish to make flat shoes, with more of leg color showing, change color to skin color yarn you will use and continue from here. If you prefer making closed shoes, as ones we used on BB dolls, continue with shoe yarn color for the next three rows.

R4: 18 sc

R5: dec6, sc6 (12)

R6: dec3, sc6 (9)

Stuff the bottom of the leg.

(Change color of the thread if you haven’t on R3)

R7-R16: 9 sc

Tie off and leave long end for sewing later. Stuff the leg.

Repeat from R1-R16 for the next leg as well!

Bring both legs together. Safety pin them so they stay close and firm.

Change color to one you will use for the dress and continue making the body.

R17: ch1, sc to the second last stitch on the next leg, sc7, ch1, sc to next leg, leaving one stitch free. Sc8. (18)

Pull out the yarn from the first leg you left for sewing later, through the gap between the legs. So it doesn’t come to your way while crocheting. You will use this yarn to sew this gap after body is done and stuffed.

R18-R21

R22-23 sc18 BLO (back loops only)

R24-R25: sc18

R26: *dec1, sc1* x6 (12)

R27 sc12 blo (back loops only)

Change color to skin color you use for the doll to make final two rows.

R28-R29: 12 sc

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body to the head.

Stuff the body.

Now take the sewing needle and the yarn there is between the legs (one you left from finishing the first leg) and sew the gap nicely.

Dress

With same color yarn you used to make the body, starting at R22

Slip stitch to one of the front loops on R22, ch1

R1 inc18 (38 sts)

R2-R6 sc36

Tie off, hide ends.

On R23 (we left with front loops as well) make a dress “decoration”.

You can use various edging stitches here. I used the most simple ones, but don’t let that stop you from making beautiful fairy dress you are dreaming of. If you have some nice edging stitch you would like to try out, this is great moment to do so.

I have made it this way:

Pink one:  ch3, skip1, sl st, ch3, skip1, slst…..

White/blue one: Leave 6 stitches in front, start with making  sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, dc1, hdc1, sc1, sl st1, *ch3, skip1, sl st* x5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc1, trc2, hdc1, sc1, sl st1. In front where 6 stitches were left, tie a bow or make some other decoration. You can even slip stitch those 6 stitches to connect sides…

Yellow/green one: at this one I forgot to left front loops 😀 So instead of crocheting directly on dress, I just made a chain and tide a little bow at front. It is loose.

Neck decoration (optional)

Use same pattern you have used for dress decoration.

Arms

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2-R8 sc6

Change color to one you are using for dress decoration.

R9-R10 sc6

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms to the body.

Note:

Pink fairy’s arms are done completely in skin color yarn. Then the shoulders that were done making ch11, sc10 (with picoe at 5th stitch) were sewed at the dress (which was done differently. Is fitting the body, not done as part of the body making process).

I warmly recommend making the dress as shown above, rather than making the body and then dress separately, but you can do as you like it better of feel more comfortable with.

Hair

Yellow fairyYellow FairyFairy

R1 sc8 in magic ring

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)

At this point we are making hairs. Each hair at one stitch around row 4

For the bangs:

ch16, starting at second stitch from the hook inc5, sl st10 – make 8 of them

The rest of the hair:

ch26, starting at second stitch from the hook in 10, sl st15 – make 24 of them

Pink fairyPink FairyFairyFairy

 Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back in addition are made ringlets for pony tail and bun to hold the ringlets.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc8 in magic ring (do not close the ring!!!)

Ch1, turn and continue with R2

R2 inc8 (16 sts)

Here we will have 16 hairs

At this fairy’s hair we have no ringlets. Every hair is done with chain and slip stitches on the way back.

I will indicate how many chain stitches there are for each hair, for all 16 there are to make this piece.

1 & 2: ch26 (25 slip stitches) – These two hairs (on each side) you will use to wrap  and sew around back piece’s edge, behind the ear.

3. 4 & 5: ch17 (16 slip stitches) – Side hairs, placed in front of ear.

6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11: ch10 (9 slip stitches) – bangs

12, 13 & 14: ch17 (16 slip stitches – Side hair, in front of ear to be placed

15 & 16: ch 26 (25 slip stitches) – back hairs. Behind ear and to wrap to back piece.

Back of the hair:

Ch8

*Sl st3, sc2, hdc2*

Repeat ** stitching in BLO (back loops only)

Make 30 rows like this before closing.

Also check if the round piece fits your dolls head. Add row or two if necessary.

You will have a hole in the middle that we will use to make a pony tail

Ringlets for pony tail:

Ch36-41

I made 4 ringlets in different stitch count (from 35-40 stitches)

R1 inc each stitch

Reaching end of first ringlet, just chain again and continue making new one

Bun to close the hair piece hole and hold ringlets at place:

R1 Sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end to sew the bun on

As you have finished all the hair pieces place them on the head. Pin them well before sewing.

Place ringlet’s (where they attach one to another) into the bun. You can use little bit of stuffing to tie them in the bun before sewing the bun on the head.

Now sew little by little. Starting with back of the hair and the ringlets. When that is done, decorate the front piece. Pin it how you would like hairs to go.

Here is my tip:

Sew the basic lines you wish hair to go and how to look.

The final touch you will get by using fabric starch to fix the hair look the way you want it. I used liquid one. Got my fingers wet and used it directly on the hair, forming it and modeling until I felt was good enough or the way I wanted it.

Use fabric starch at the end. When doll is completely done. Making the hair look nice is your final touch making the doll.

Blue fairy:Blue FairyFairyFairyFairy

Hair is done in two major pieces. Front and back.

On the back piece, or better said the sides of it, two buns to hold the pony tails were added.

Front hair piece:

R1 sc5 in magic ring

R2 in5 (10 sts)

Now hair making of the chains from every stitch in row2 – 10 hairs

1, 2 & 3: ch21; inc10, sl st10 (20 sts) – two are going behind ear, one in front.

4: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

5 & 6: ch 11; sl st10 (10 sts) – bangs

7: ch16; inc5, sl st10 (15 sts) – front of ear

8, 9 & 10: ch21; inc10, sl st 10 – one in front of ear, two behind

Back of the head piece:

Ch15

You will be working on both sides of the chain. Same procedure as with the front piece; chains and slip stitches back to create hairs.

In each of the 15 stitches chain 9- sl st8

When done connect each hair’s end with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Now repeat the same for the other side of the chain. 15 stitches, 15 hairs with ch9; sl st8. Connect the ends with slip stitch. Tie off and leave long end for sewing.

Pony tails:

Ch 26; inc15, sl st 10

Make three for each side

Buns to hold the tails:

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6

R3 sc12

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

WingsFairies

For wings I used the pattern you can find on the following link.

http://nerospost.wordpress.com/2013/01/25/crochet-butterfly-pattern/

It is butterfly pattern and is very easy to be made.  Please note that the pattern uses UK terms! 

I was looking for firm but yet enough lacy kind of wings and these seemed perfect.

They really are!

I used fabric starch on them as well so they stay firm and really nice.

On two of the wings, pink and green fairy, together with white yarn I used a golden thread to make wings sparkling.

On blue fairy I used silver thread, what I liked more but unfortunately didn’t have enough of it for entire wings. Silvery was just about how I wanted it. Hardly noticed but yet was giving this little touch of magic. Golden thread is little more aggressive for my taste, but you do and use what you have available or like.

You can try with different butterfly patterns. There are no limits to ones imagination.

I always try to encourage you to try different things, to try adding something own to whole project. I am just giving you idea on what could be done.

In this case, possibilities to make the fairy are really endless. You can decorate her dress many, many different ways. You can add tiny details to her hair, shoes….

You can make hair many ways as well. Here are just three basic patterns that you can work on and make endless hair styles.

Make long big ringlets or make short hair fairy…

If you wish to bring magic to your finished doll….think magic….make it.

You can always ask me for any help. Will be glad to help you and share what I know and can.

Almost forgot to mention details I have made on the fairies such as tiny flowers, tiaras.

Flowers I used n the shoes:

Was looking for tiniest flowers I could do with same yarn used for entire doll, but whatever there from the patterns available or those I use often were to big.

So I ended up making this tiny flowers this way:

Ch3, sl st to 3rd ch from the hook, ch2, sl st to the same chain st….repeat to reach 5 petals.

You can do this with magic ring as well. Think it might be evenbetter (you can close the ring completely)

Start with sc1 in magic ring, ch1, sl st to magic ring and repeat until you reach 5 petals. Tie off.

Tiaras:

Both tiaras (on pink and green fairy) were done the same way. Pink one was done with thread so was very loose and had to put it on a wire to stay firm.

Green one was sprinkled with glitter after starched and placed on the head (I sewed this one on the head)

Both were done by making desired length chain

First row was done in single crochet

The second one was done ch3, skip one, sl st1, ch3…..

Flowers on blue fairy, one I used in hair were made my usual way.

Sc5 in magic ring

Sl st 5th to 1st

Ch2, hdc1, sl st to next st…

Repeat for all five petals

Fairies

 If I have missed anything or you wish to find out more, please feel free to write and ask.

I hope you will enjoy making these magic dolls! Make sure to share you photos with us!

Thank you everyone!!!!

Have a magic weekend!

Love and hugs,

Vanja

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Week in a Fairy Land

This week was pretty busy! It was al about fairies!

As my older niece’s birthday is coming up this month was n a hurry to start with and finish fairy house I told her the fairies started to build in my garden 😀

Photo that gave me idea to make such house one day popped out on Pinterest.  Fell in love with the houses this young woman is making/creating.  Here is the link to her beautifully fairy house.

http://alittlefurinthepaint.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-fairy-house-revisited.html

You should go and see how wonderful work she is doing!

Here is the house I have been working on.  Construction of the house is made in paper clay. Have the roof done, and walls are painted so far. Now have small work in polymer clay to do. Windows, doors decorations such as flowers…  I am planning on making the house door movable, so my nice can open and sneak peak inside to look for the fairies;  will try to make few pieces of furniture to decorate inside as well.

This will keep me busy for the next few days, maybe whole next week, depending how well my fingers will listen my creative mind 😀  Will make sure to take the photo of the house when completely finished.  Here are the photos of what I have done so far.

Still lots of work to do….

Speaking of fairies… making this little house, and me loving fairies and fantasy, I tried to make a little fairy doll.

The biggest problem was finding suitable wings to fit the fairy. Not to small, not to big, not to difficult, not to simple….ahhh….. what problems …..

I am still not sure my choice is the best one made but this pattern was easy to make, wings are firm and steady…. and I still have time finding new ones and trying them out 😀

Today I am not going to talk about the pattern. Didn’t have time to write it all down for you to try to make the fairy doll. It is the hair that need lots of explaining(s).

Aha…before I continue talking, let me show you few photographs of this Fairy Doll I have made.

Doll is same size as BB Dolls. Changed the head shape and made arms little bit longer. Dress is different (this one is cut in waist – but again easy to make).

Hair is not so difficult to make even though it looks pretty complicated wrapped here and there.

It can’t bee seen on the photos well, but hair is done in two pieces. Back with pony tail, and front with bangs and side hairs to fill al the gaps around ears.

Aha, this doll has the ears! 😀 Elvish ones!!!

I hope the pattern will be finished by the end of next week. Will try to make it. Still wish to work some more on this Fairy Doll.  Wish to change shape of the shoes, have to unblock my mind so can finally remember how to make left/right ear instead of making both right 😀 … Have few more hair styles I would like to try making …

Did try making tiny fairy as well. You can see her on photo below.  Size smaller than little Karla doll. Here she is compared to finished fairy. The head in front of the dolls is new airy I am working on.

Hope you enjoyed these little fairies and their stories!

I didn’t want to finish this week without at least one pattern to keep you busy over the weekend 😀

As a mater of fact I have prepared two patterns for you that am sure you will enjoy very much.

Both are fast and easy to make. Outcome is amazing! You will have lots of fun making them and I am sure will find someone to make a nice gift to!

First one comes from dear blogger friend Sharon and her Gentlestitches.com. She has created this little Koala that I have made and love it.

I have added the branch and made Koala as a keychain. My Koala ended up about 6-7 cm high what made him just perfect for a keychain. Is really so adorable. I didn’t have safety nose to put it on, so I sewed, embroidered one instead. So did with the eyes. Photo is not the best one (but again, when did you see any of my photographs turning out perfect 😉 ).

Link to the pattern and free download to this pattern is here:

http://gentlestitches.com/free-amigurumi-patterns-2/

The second pattern I warmly recommend is one quite unusual but again so outstanding and gorgeous one. I fell in one with this one at first sight. Did not have peace until I tried it out! The second pattern is made by Jennifer at Squirrel Picnic. Her pattern is Cuddly Robot or MEAP 🙂

This is my MEAP made following the Jennifer’s pattern!

She has got this great, great idea on making the wheels! You should try it!

Link to MEAP pattern and Squirrel Picnic blog is here:

Cuddly Robot Crochet Pattern

Really hope you will enjoy making both of these wonderful toys and have lots and lots of fun! 😀

 

Wishing you all wonderful and peaceful weekend.

Love and hugs to all,

Vanja

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One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll.  Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking!  He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.One piece boy

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

one piece boy

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25  shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it.  Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!

Trousers

ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from behind.one piece boy

Hair

This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:

ch21

R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .

Hat

Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:

Body

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end

Head

sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts)  – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.

Tail

ch5

R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉DSC01760

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,

Vanja

 

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One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage.  At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll -Part II - clothes pattern

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us.  This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll

Flower Girl - One piece Flat Doll

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.

Dress:

You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.

ch16

R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5  -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.

Hat

– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.

Shoes:

sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.

ch31

R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration

ch21

R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll. one piece doll - flower girl part2 - how to make clothes - free pattern

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!

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One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head.  If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.

 

Abbreviation:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease

 

- cloth doll inspired crochet -

cloth doll inspired crochet

Ch12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5th stitch from the end, ch1,  sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49  sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair,  paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on. DSC01681

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,

VanjaDSC01683

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Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head

Hello everyone!

This week I wanted to share new doll pattern, but meantime I made a promise to Donna who is crocheting animals for kids at her local hospital that will try to make this pattern alive, and here we are Teddy Eddy Pumpkin Head is free to be done for little ones and those not so little!

My first Teddy Eddy was made for my sweetheart, as a key holder (and named after him). Made many of these teddies. Not only as bears but it is easy to be done/adjusted as koala or panda.

It is really cute and small one! Hardly makes 10 cm (with dk cotton and 2 mm hook). One fast and easy project to do.

Here are the photos of my little Teddy Eddy

On first photo is my first TeddyEddy done. Was one of those projects, when I just took the yarn and the needle and crocheted without anything in my mind. Waited to get surprised what will come out from my work.

On the second photo are some of little ones I made later. Whoever saw TeddyEddy, wanted one immediately!

TeddyEddy4Friends will be friends

This one I made today, while writing down the pattern.

TeddyEddy

Think we can start!

Materials I used:

2 mm crochet hook

Patons 100% cotton yarn DK

Wooden black beads, 4 mm, for the eyes

needle for sewing the parts together, nose and shaping the head.

Small piece of black yarn for making the nose

 

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)

dec – decrease (I used invisible decrease)

 

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6  (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6-R9 sc30 sts  (for those that use safety eyes, pčace the eyes in between R9 and R10 leaving 4 sc between them.)

R10 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R11 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R12 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts) – mark this row, as here we will sew a little to shape the head

R13-R14 sc48 sts

R15 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R16 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R17 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Body

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7-R11 sc36 sts

R12 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30sts)

R13 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R15-R16 sc18 sts

Tie off and leave long end for sewing the body to the head later. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Arms (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 sc12 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R5-R8 sc8 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the arm to the head later. If you want you can stuff the bottom of each arm a little.

 

Legs (make 2)

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1*x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5-R6 sc24 sts

R7 dec6, sc12 (18 sts)

R8 sc18 sts

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R12 sc12 sts

Stuff the bottom of the leg. Flatten the top and single crochet through both sides for 5 stitches total. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the legs to the body later.

 

Ears

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3-R4 sc12 sts

R5 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the ears later.

 

Belly

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the belly on the body.

 

Tail

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R3 sc9 sts

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the tail to the body later.

 

Shaping the head:

Take the bears head in your hands. By now should be well stuffed and nicely firm. As you can see, there are 6 peaks around the bottom part of the head (where we started to decrease). Pick one of these peaks. On R12 that we have marked earlier at one of these peaks mark 3 stitches using safety pins.

What you will do now, is wave the yarn with the needle through these three stitches (from the bottom of the head opening, through the head, through the stitch out, into the second stitch, through the head to the bottom, pull, through the head up to the next  stitch …repeat for each stitch).

where to wave in and sew to shape the head

To make few hairs on top of the head, when done shaping the head, pull the needle through the head to the top. Sew few lops (as if making the tassel-1-2 are enough). Finish off pulling the needle through the head, towards the bottom, cut and hide ends in the stuffing.

When done with this waving and sewing, you will get this pointing nose looking shape, when looking from the side.

assembling the parts

Assembling the parts together:

Sew body and the head together through 18 stitches on each side.

Arms will go on sides of the body

Sew the legs in between the row5 and 6. Center them, leaving 2 stitches in between them.

Tail will go on the back of the body, right after row 5.

Place the ears on the sides of the head, starting row 4 downwards.

Place the belly and sew it all around to fin nicely on the center of the body’s front.

And your TeddyEddy is done.TeddyEddy

Hope you have enjoyed making it. If you will need any help regarding the head shaping and sewing, please feel free to contact me and ask. I will try to make some good photographs of the whole process as well, for your easier following and understanding how it goes.

’till next time wishing you all great time crocheting 🙂