Posted on 18 Comments

Happy Easter

To all that celebrate and are getting ready for Sunday, wishing HAPPY EASTER!

DSC02733

For this occasion prepared special little treat chick and bunny I made following the free patterns from the fellow bloggers. Both creative designers and dear friends.

First one is the Rainbow Chick

DSC02739

This super awesome rainbow chick comes from Jennifer and her SquirrelPicnic.

The pattern you can find here:

Rainbow Chicken Crochet Pattern

 

It is easy and so much fun project to do. Find out why are rainbow chicks so rare and why so special in Jennifer’s comics.

Rainbow chick comic Part1:

SQUIRREL PICNIC (the comic): The Mystery of the Rainbow Chicken Part 1

Rainbow chick comic Par2:

SQUIRREL PICNIC (the comic): The Mystery of the Rainbow Chicken Part 2

 

The second one comes from Amilovesgurumi, and Karin’s Easter bunny school.

DSC02741

My bunny is made with thread that is why he ended up tiny like this 🙂

This nice and easy pattern to follow and make you can find here:

Easter Bunnies

 

Next one is just some bunny I found pattern on the internet. On one of the  Russian forums. The pattern doesn’t state the author or original designer and for that reason can’t share the link to it, so will show just the photo. Look how lovely this bunny is:

DSC02747

WIsh photo can show you how soft this bunny is and how cuddly in real he looks. Working on the pattern made few changes such as longer arms and legs. Really nice bunny pattern for babies and small children.

 

To finish with, addin one more photo with all of them together. Wishing you happy weekend and for those that celebrate

Happy Easter!

DSC02732

Vanja

 

 

(sorry for not making “normal” links but have very hard time writing posts and creating anything on my blog lately because of very old computer I am working at. Sometimes I just can’t see the buttons to add or create links. Sorry for this, really hope these old fashioned write the link way will work for all)

Posted on 22 Comments

Bratz inspired doll

I am done!!! This easy and simple pattern for new doll as the title says is inspired by Bratz dolls. Dear friend Ruth from one of my Facebook groups was looking for this one and I offered help to create one for her. I wasn’t familiar with Bratz dolls at all! That is why the pattern took me long time to make.

First of all I am not fan of Barbie looking skinny dolls. Then

as I wanted to create the similar possible measurements to original doll took me forever to find them. Found several bloggers crocheting clothes and giving measurement of doll, but what I missed was torso length and legs without feet (as the feet varies from collection to collection).Further more, Bratz have specific eyes and silicone, huge lips 😀 Again no, no…and more troubles to create!

At the end I decided I will make a basic Bratz body shape, but the rest will do easy way, for everyone to make it.

First will show you my Bratz doll.

BratzBB curly hair front

As you can see, I have tried hard to reach Bratz looking doll expression. For that I painted the eyes and lips. Hair is made from satin ribbons. Even the dress doll is wearing is crocheted after dress one designer created especially for Bratz.

Pattern for this dress you can find on this link (there you can find few more nice patterns for your doll to make):

http://donnascrochetdesigns.com/freetoy/12-inch-fashi

on-doll-free-crochet-pattern-index-pg4.html

This pattern I had to divide into three parts. I will not write the pattern here, in the post, but will add it directly to Free Patterns page and Tutorials and Help page (how to sew limbs and hair making are there).  It is easy pattern but long as I have added many photos.

You will find three patterns to download in order to create the basic doll body and hair.

Patterns are:

1. Basic Bratz doll body

2. How to create hair from satin ribbon

3. How to connect limbs to the body

Now I can show you my doll. Bratz inspired doll BB way 😉

Lolly front

 

This is my Lolly!

lolly sideLolly back

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new creation form my BB room. Even more I hope you will enjoy making your dolls. Specially the new way of creating this beautiful hair.

Thank you all for your time and happy crocheting.

 

Hugs

 

Vanja

Posted on 18 Comments

Easter basket with daffodils

In addition to Bunny family adding the pattern for their Easter basket and daffodils.

Dear friend Rhondda from  oombawkadesign and her followers have made this special request that I couldn’t turn down.

For them and all that love tiny baskets and beautiful daffodils here is the pattern!

Easter basket3

Basket and daffodils were crocheted with 2,00 mm crochet hook. Yarns are left overs of different yarns I had.

My basket is only 10 cm (4 inches) wide and 8 cm  (3.1 inch) high.

Daffodils measure 4 cm (1  1/2 inch) in diameter.

Easter basket

Abbreviations used in the pattern:

st(s) – stitch(es)

sc – single crochet

bpsc – back post single crochet

blo – back loop of each stitch is worked

sl st – slip stitch

inc – increase stitch, making two single crochet stitches in one stitch

dec – decreasing stitch, decreasing two single crochet stitches in one

rev st – reverse or crab stitch

R – round

Easter Basket

Sc8 in magic ring

R1 inc8 (16 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x8 (32 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x8 (40 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x8 (48 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x8 (56 sts)

R7 back post sc 56

R8 sc56

R9-R13 blo sc56

R14 *inc14, sc14* x2 (84 sts)

R15 sc84

R16 rev st around

Tie off hide ends

 

Handle

Attach wire in the middle of each side of the basket where we haven’t done increases (you will notice one side is strait and other is curving forward, on each side). look at the photos below

Sc each of the handles so the stitches cover the wire completely. For my handle that was 10 cm long I used 70 sc

Twist around crocheted work so it gives nice twisted look over the wire.

Easter basket in progressEaster basket in progress2

 

Daffodil

 

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

 R2 *ch5, sc in the second chain from hook, hdc to next chain, dc in each of  next two chain sts, skip one stitch on the base of the flower, sl st to next* repeat this for each of the next 5 petals (6 petals in total)

R3 at this point you can change the color if you want the middle to be different (darker yellow color) or you can continue with the same.

Ch1, sc to front loops of each of the skipped stitches of the R2 (6 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R5 sc8

R6 *ch2, sl st to next st* x8

Tie off hide ends

This makes our daffodil finished.

I have made daffodils on wire. to do that you have to create the daffodil’s back.

Back of the flower (green yarn)

R1 sc to back loops of each of the stitches we skipped at R2 when making daffodil.

R2-R3 sc6

R4 add some stuffing and prepare the wire you will push inside this piece (on wire end, that will be stuck inside the flower, make a tiny litle hook, that will hold on stuffing).  Sc every  second st. Tie off leaving pretty long end for wrapping the wire in yarn.

Depending on what yarn you will work with, you might want to close this last round (instead of decreasing nad stitching) with needle. See what suits you better. At R4 all that matters is to close our work nicely, to add wire and wrap it in yarn.

Push the wire inside the back of the flower, add some glue at this tiny opening so will hold the wire and yarn nice and firm, start wrapping the wire.

When reaching the end, add some more glue to secure the end and finish off.

And that is it. Your 3D daffodil is made.

Use some fabric starch to form and model your daffodils to make them look nice.

Easter basket2

 For the tiny eggs I have added in the basket haven’t posted the pattern. For each egg I made I tried out different pattern I found online (and there are many, many you can try).

Eggs were done in thread and 1,5 mm hook.

Hope you have enjoyed these two tiny projects and that will give them a try this Spring.

Wishing you all happy end of the week!

 

Vanja

 

Posted on 36 Comments

Bunny Family Easter Portrait

Hello dear friends,

It is little bit more than one month till Easter! This year my Easter bunnies wanted to share their family photos with you. They were also so very kind that allowed me to write the pattern so all of you can make their relatives and send us their photos when done. This way all the bunnies will see their relatives around the world and will be able to make a family album and maybe even create a family tree 🙂

Let me introduce the Bunny Familly

Bunny Familly Easter Greetings

As you can see it is pretty much the modern Bunny family; grandparents, mom and dad an one child (in tis case son).

Lets look at some more photos from their family album

Here are Bunny grandparents with their grandson. Grandma was first I made. From her pattern all other bunnies were born (It should have been grandpa, but….I started with the girl this time 🙂 )

buny grandparenst with their grandson

On the next photo are young mom and dad with their son. The pattern you are going to have is for this kind of bunny. I have written down as many details as I could. Eyes are crocheted as well, and you will find instructions on how to make them as well.

mama, papa and their son

Here the ladies decided to take photo alone…the little one jumped in last second.

bunny girls

One photo with boys only

bunny boys

The pattern is ready for download  here

For any questions regarding the pattern, please feel free to contact me. I really hope you will make a bunny or two and don’t forget to send photos for our family album!

Lots of love form Bunny Family and

Vanja ♡

Posted on 11 Comments

Valentine’s Card

It is still not late to make a card!

One of dear blogger friends Karin from Ami loves gurumi, came up with great Valentine’s day envelope.

Here are few photographs of what Karin came up with:1071241132

 

Each photo will send you directly to Karin’s blog and link to the page and pattern. If you have missed it, the link is here:

http://amilovesgurumi.wordpress.com/2014/02/05/valentines-day/

Based on this wonderful and easy to follow pattern I have made one envelope myself. Also added tiny card to go with it.

Envelope-frontEnvelope-backEnvelope & card-frontEnvelope & card-back

Love letters you can see in front of the envelope is the pattern I used from here:

Love! Card

Lip applique I found here:

http://patronesparacrochet.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/patrones-de-adornos-variados.html

and little birds here:

http://damnitjanetletscrochet.blogspot.com/2012/01/bird-applique.html

Making envelope and card is fun! 😀

Really is!

You can use it all year round, not only for Valentine’s day! Make a personalized card to give with present or send to an old and far away family or friend.

Use it as a key holder or business cards keeper. I am sure you will think of something more to use it for.

I am going back to work. Have zombi Vanja to finish 😀  Yes, working on a zombi doll pattern from Jennifer and  SquirrelPicnic blog.

Here is the link to her pattern, http://squirrelpicnic.com/2014/02/07/make-it-challenge-8-zombies-in-love/ , but more about it on my next post.

Just a sneak peak to what I have done so far. 😀

Zombi Vanja♡ Vanja

Posted on 93 Comments

Mooshka dolls

This week we have got new treat for all doll lovers.

Girls will love this one. Moms and grandmothers as well as it is easy and fast project to do and doll is not a small one and has no tiny pieces to sew or work with. I find it real treat for big and small ones and all thanks to Kathy from Facebook group who asked for the pattern to be created for her granddaughter.

Here are two of my Mooshka dolls I made while working on the pattern.Mooshka dolls2Will not talk to much but will leave you with the pattern and few more photos of dolls. For any questions you might need while working on this little cute one, please feel free to contact me and ask.

To give you better presentation on how doll looks like when done, tried to make photos from side and back view as well. It is flat doll, very much looking alike a rag doll. Mooshka-orangeMooshka-side viewMooshka-back viewAs you can see eyes on this doll above is painted. She is second one I made. First one I have made with crocheted eyes.Mooshka-blueI have written you down how to make crocheted eyes as well. Also tried to give you as many details as possible on how to make eyes and what size to use when painting them, making them in felt or using safety ones.

Mooshka dolls can be made in any yarn of your choice with matching hook to go with it. Finished doll size when worked with DK (medium weight yarn) with 2,5 mm hook (as dolls you can see on the photo) are 26cm tall (10.24 in).

 

Materials needed:

Yarns of your choice for body, hair and dress

The rest of the doll  (legs and dress) can be made with leftover yarns to make Mooshka as colorful as possible.

Matching hook

Stuffing

Ribbons, buttons, beads….anything you can imagine or like to decorate Mooshka’s dress, head, shoes.

Emboidery thread to crochet the eyes or textile paint if you would rather paint them.

If you prefer safety eyes, find one that will fit the size 5×5 stitches of your gauge (what will depend of yarn and hook you will use. Make small piece 10 sts x10 rows and find the adequate eyes based on that. Important is that eyes do not exceed 5×5 stitches).

Embroidery thread or pain for eye brows, lips.

Embroidery needle

 

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two sts stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stitch – for help please follow the link  http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

 

Head

I didn’t write it in the pattern but head is done in finishing rounds. Start each round with ch1, and finish it with slip stitch.

With yarn in flash color of your choice

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R7 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R8 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R9 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R10-R19 sc60

R20 sc6, dec1, sc10, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc109, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc1, (54 sts)

R21 sc5, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc9, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc1 (48 sts)

R22 sc4, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc8, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc1 (42 sts)

R23 sc3, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc7, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1 (36 sts)

R24 sc2, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc6, dec1, sc3, dec1, sc1 (30 sts)

R25 sc1, dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc2 dec1, sc5, dec1, sc2, dec1, sc1 (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc4, dec1, sc1, dec1 sc1 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

Do not cut or tie off…continue working the neck

Neck area

R1 sc18

R2 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (30 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc1 (36 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1 (42 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc8, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc1 (48 sts)

R7 sc5, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc9, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc1 (54 sts)

R8 sc6, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc7 inc1 sc1 (60 sts)

R9-R10 Sc60 x2

 

Forming arms

Sl st. last to first chain made, ch1 (this is our last round with sl.st, ch1 work, from now on continue in continuous rounds)

R1 Sc next5, count backwards 15 stitches and stitch across. We will make arm here and continue working in continuous rounds with 15 sts (when encounter sl st, ch1, skip both stitches and continue in next sc making 15 sc round count

R2-R21 Sc15

Somewhere at rounds 19-21 you can change color in order to create bracelet (it is optional)

R22 Two cluster sts with 3dc in the next two sc , sc13 (15 sts)

R23 *dec1, sc1*  x5 (10 sts)

R24 Sc10

R25 Dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off and sew the last row closing it nicely. Hide the thread inside arm area.

 

Next arm:

Count 15 sts around the opposite end, slip stitch two opposite stitches and continue stitching 15 in rounds same as with first arm

Repeat R2-R25 above (arm forming)

 

Note! When reaching R22 of this, second arm making. Pay attention to where the cluster stitch will be. It should face the inner arm side.

I didn’t have problems with any of the arms and this finger making, as I started to create arm under arm area. This way, to make thumb was on both hands first stitches to start with on R22.

 

Body

Even though there are 30 sts left for the body to continue with, we will stitch corner stitches as well (to close the gaps under arms) and make 34 sts round.

Start body making the first stitch under arm stitch (this you will achieve by stitching front and back corners stitches first. Saying this, as it will make the body look nicer, when we start decreasing and increasing two stitches on each side to shape the doll’s body.

 

R1 slip stitch to one of the corner stitches, to start with and sc 34 sts around body part, stitching 4 of the corner stitches as well (34 sts)

R2 Sc34

R3 Dec1, sc15, dec1, sc15 (32 sts)

(if your first dec is not under arm and you lost this count, adjust the first stitch of this round to fit the pattern)

R4 Dec1, sc14, dec1, sc14 (30 sts)

R5 Inc1, sc14, inc1, sc14 (32 sts)

R6 Inc1, sc15, inc1, sc15 (34 sts)

R7 Inc1, sc16, inc1, sc16 (36 sts)

R8 Inc1, sc17, inc1, sc17 (38 sts)

R9 Inc1, sc18, inc1, sc18 (40 sts)

Change color for panties

R10 Inc1, sc19, inc1, sc19 (42 sts)

R11-R16 Sc42

R17 *Dec1, sc5*  x6 (36 sts)

Stuff the body nice and firm. We will add more and finish stuffing before closing  last round. Tie off leaving long end for sewing the body and legs.

First we will sew the body.

Flatten the body (if few stitches are needed to reach the end⁄corner stitch when body is flattened and ready to sew, sc those few stitches)

Using embroidery needle, sew the last round with whip stitch using just front loops to (this will close the round nice and give it even closure).

Before sewing it completely, add more stuffing if needed.

 

Legs x2

Ch6

R1 Sc4, 2sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 Inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 Inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (24 sts)

R4-R5 Sc24

R6 Sc8, dec3, sc10 (21 sts)

Change color (shoe is done)

R7 Sc6, dec3, sc9 (18 sts)

R8-R32 Sc18

Stuff legs nice and firm

Flatten the leg opening on the top making sure when flattened fingers and heal are pointing right directions and leg is not flattened sideways.

Sc8 stitches stitching through both sides of the top leg piece, closing the leg this way and making it ready to be attached to the body.

Tie off leaving long end for hiding it in the leg or doll’s body later.

Hair

Color of your choice

Hair is done in rows. After each row ch1 and turn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x5 (25 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x5 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x5 (35 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x5 (40 sts)

R8-R17 Sc40

R18 dec1, sc36 dec1 (38 sts)

R19 dec1, sc34, dec1 (36 sts)

R20 dec1, sc32, dec1, (34 sts)

R21 dec1, sc30, dec1, (32 sts)

R22 dec1, sc28, dec1 (30 sts)

R23 dec1, sc26, dec1, (28 sts)

R24 dec1, sc24, dec1 (26 sts)

R25 dec1, sc22, dec1, (24 sts)

R26 dec1, sc20, dec1 (22 sts)

R27 dec1, sc18, dec1, (20 sts)

Chain one and stitch side of the hair piece made (looking at the piece, you will continue stitching upwards, towards the magic ring made at start)

sc1 in magic ring. Ch11, slip stitch 10 to chain just made, sc1 in magic ring again, ch11, sl st 10 to chain just made, continue with sc  on the other side of the hair, sl st last, tie off and leave long end for sewing the hair to the head later.

Pony tails can be made many ways.

We can add tassels on sides, crochet buns…you can place them on sides or upper on the head.

 

Simple buns (blue haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 sc12

R3 *inc, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R6 sc18

R7 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Stuff the bun well

R8 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the bun to the hair later.

 

Longer buns (orange haired doll)

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 sc9

R3 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the first part

R4 inc6 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12

R8 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff second ball

R9 inc6 (12 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R11-R12 sc18

R13 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R14 dec6 (6 sts)

Stuff, cut the thread leaving long end for sewing

Dress

Ch29

Sc28

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc1…around (42 sts)

Dc42

Inc1, dc2 … around (56 sts)

Dc56

Back loops only, sc8, skip12, sc16, skip12 sc8 (32 sts)

Sc32

Ch2m turn in1, dc1…around (48 sts)

Dc48

Ch2, turn, inc1, dc2…around (64 sts)

Sl st sides and continue to work in rounds

Ch2, dc64 x5

Change color

Ch2, skip one, sl st in next, ch2, skip one, sl st in next…around

Eyes and creating dolls face

Mooshka in white dress has crocheted eyes. I made those with embroidery thread and 1,25 mm hook. You have to keep in mind that I also worked with medium weight yarn and 2,5 hook. If you have worked with heavier yarn and bigger hook, you might end up experimenting with the right eye size and what thread to use to make them.

To make eyes looking as similar as to Mooshka, they should not exceed the size of 5×5 stitches (on the head). Don’t feel discouraged, but give it a try with different threads or yarns to reach the right size to make eyes.

If this you will find to complicated you can always make eyes with felt pieces or paint them what will make them as beautiful and easier to do.

 

Crocheted eyes:

With black embroidery thread

Sc8 in magic ring, slip stitch last to first st in back loop of the stitch

Change color for the iris. Let it be one of bright, strong colors in blue, green or brown

Work in back loops only – Ch2, dc1 in same st where sl st made, 2dc in each of the following 7 sts (16 sts)

Add white to sides of each eye through over 4 stitches making slip stitch, 2sc and ending with sl st. (finish off nice and hide ends on the back side of the eye.

For the eye lashes I uses starting and ending thread from making the pupil. Instead of hiding them I placed them on side, fixing them to stay with tiny bit of glue before sewing them on the head.

For sewing the eyes I used so called invisible thread.

Place the eyes between rounds 15 and 19 leaving 8 stitches between them.

Once you sew them or glue them on the head take finest black marker you can find and color the back loops of the outer eye circle. This way you will round the eyes and make them doll looking.

You can embroider the black circle around eyes, but use fine black thread to do it.

You can embroider or paint the eyelashes and lips.

Embroider the nose in the middle of eye area, one round lower (that would be in between rounds 19 and 20). Use two horizontal stitches for embroidering the nose.

 

Place the lips two rounds below the nose.

Eyebrows somewhere on the third round upper from the eyes.

Use little blush to dolls cheeks (or if you are painting the details, use pink paint for the cheeks as well).

Mooshka dolls

And that it is! Your Moosha is done! 

Hope you enjoyed making your Mooshka.

Looking forward to hear from you and see your Mooshka dolls!

 

♡ Vanja 

Posted on 46 Comments

Marsupilami

Meet Marsupilami!!!

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Marsupilami is a fictional comic book species created by Andre Franquin, first published on 31 January 1952 in the Franco-Belgian comics magazine Spirou.

You can visit YouTube and look for Marsupilami cartoons and have lots of fun and laugh at his jungle adventures 😀

After that you can take your yarns and hook and make one for yourself and have fun every day watching this silly creature gooofing around your room with his silly face, long bouncing ears and tail.

Marsupilami was done few weeks ago, but was waiting for my friends from the Facebook group to finish trying out the pattern so the final pattern comes out with as little mistakes as possible.

One more look of to Marsupilami and we can get started with the pattern.

Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Materials needed

Matching yarn and hook accordingly you will need

crochet hook (I used 2,5 mm and DK-medium weigh cotton yarn)

yarn:

– yellow,

– light peach (beige),

– little bits of white and black (for eyes and nose)

Embroidery & darning needles

Stuffing

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Inc – increasing stitch (two sc in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (two stc stitched together, I used invisible decrease)

** – repeat what mentioned in between (followed by x number of repeats)

R – round

Cluster stich – 2dc under same stitch; follow the link for explanation and how to.

http://crochet.about.com/library/blcluster2.htm

Work is done in continuous rounds (spiral work). Use marker  for easier round following.

Head

Using yellow yarn

Ch6

R1 sc4 3sc in one st, work around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 sc54

R10 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R11-R14 sc60

R15 *dec1, sc8* x6 (54 sts)

R16 sc54

R17 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R18 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R19 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R20 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R23 *dec1 sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off. Stuff the head some more if needed.

Feet-legs-body

Feet and hands are done with light peach or beige color yarn, while the rest is crocheted with yellow

 

First make leg fingers

Start working with light peach color yarn or beige

 

Make 2

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

Tie off

 

Make one (middle finger)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Tie off.

 

And the last finger we won’t tie off but will continue

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger (longer one) and continue with 3sc over middle finger, bring the next finger. You will make 6sc over this finger, working around the finger pointing to back side of middle finger direction; continue stitching 3sc of middle finger; now back to finger we have started from, making 6sc. Round is finished with total of 18 sts (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff the fingers at this point.

R8 at this round we will connect thumb sc3, now sc3 through thumb and working piece (in order to connect them), sc12 (18 sts)

R9 sc3, sc3 just over thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc12 (18 sts)

R10 sc10, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold the last row in half and slip stitch through 7 stitches (this can be difficult as the piece is small, if you find it easier, you can sew the back instead).

What we have done here, is closed the foot. Now it is round, opened only on top side, where we’ll continue with crocheting the leg.

Reaching the end – closing the back of the foot (after 7 sts made) change color to yellow.

Add more stuffing to the foot and continue stuffing the leg as you go.

R13 make 12sc around the top edge of the foot made (continue working in continuous rounds)

R14 sc12 back lops only

(this is in case you want to ad fringes to ad more fur looking body. It is optional. I have made back loops on all, legs, arms and neck, but added fringes only around neck area.)

R15-R28 sc12

Note: to add knees make 3cluster stitches (each with 2dc) in the front area of the round 19.

At the end of R28 tie off and cut ends.

This leg we have just made was right side one.

 

Here are the instructions to make left side leg (the foot makes the difference)

 

Left foot

 

Start making leg as written above.  Changes on the pattern will start at R8.

 

R8 sc7, sc3 through both –thumb and working piece stitches, sc8 (18 sts)

R9 sc7, sc3 just through thumb stitches (three that were left unstitched), sc8 (18 sts)

R10 sc1, ch1, turn

R11 sc14, ch1, turn

R12 sc7, ch1 fold these tow rows you worked at in half (right sides facing each other)

 

Continue with the pattern as written above, but don’t cut the thread and tie off.

 

Legs finished,

making body:

 

Connect legs

R1 Ch3, continue making sc on right leg; sc12, sc3 (over the back side of chain made at start) sc12 (left leg) (30 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R3-R12 sc36

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14-R15 sc30

R16 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R17-R21 sc24

R22 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R23 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm.

R24 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R25 sc12 back loops only

R26 sc12

Finish stuffing the body. Ad some more stuffing at the time when sewing head and body together to make the neck part nice and firm.

Arms x2

Firs make fingers

Each hand will have four fingers. Middle finger is one round longer.

 

Make2 (for each hand)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

 

Middle finger

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R5 sc6

Last finger to go:

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2-R4 sc6

R5 bring middle finger and stitch over it 3sc, bring next finger and sc6, (continue working around the fingers as you go), sc3 over middle finger previously added, sc6 over starting finger (18 sts)

R6-R7 sc18

Stuff fingers.

R8 connecting thumb round (both arms are the same) – sc5, sc3 through double stitches (thumb and working piece), sc 10 (18 sts)

R9 sc5, sc3 (thumb only) sc10 (18 sts)

Change color to yellow

Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm as you go.

R10 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R11 work in back loops only if wish to add fringes on hands *dec1, sc4* x2 (10 sts)

R12-R31 sc10

To add elbows, make 3 cluster stitches with 2dc each. Add them around rounds17-18.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Eyes x2

With white yarn

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 inc5 (10)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x5 (15 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x5 (20 sts)

Ti off leaving long end for sewing

 

Black pupils are placed in the inner sides of eyes, between rows 2-3. I have painted mine, but if you are using safety eyes or beads this is the place where to position them.

White eye parts are placed next to each other on the upper half side of the head. (eyes and mouth piece will meet on the middle of the head (so pay attention to that).

Nose will be placed the way to touch the outer eye line and will go through 4-5 rounds over the mouth piece.

Nose

With black yarn

Ch8

R1 sc6, 3 sc in one st, sc5, 2 sc in one st (16 sts)

R2 *inc1. sc1* x8 (24 sts)

R3 sc24

R4 *dec1, sc1* x8 (16 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose on the head. Stuff the nose well.

Place and sew the nose as described above.

Mouth-facial piece

With light peach or beige

Ch6

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, sc3, 2 sc in one st (12)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1 sc5* x6 (42 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Ears

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4-R8 sc24

R9 *dec1, sc10* x2 (22 sts)

R10 sc22

R11 *dec1, sc9* x2 (20 sts)

R12 sc20

R13 *dec1, sc8* x2 (18 sts)

R14 sc18

R15 *dec1, sc7* x2 (16 sts)

R16 sc16

R17 *dec1, sc6* x2 (14 sts)

R18 sc14

R19 *dec1, sc5* x2 (12 sts)

R10-R17 sc12

Flatten the ears, tie off leaving long end for sewing them on the head later.

Belly

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 Inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing

Position the belly on the lower side of the body and sew it nicely.

Tail

Sc6 in magic ring

R1-… make tail as long as you like using 6sc Marsupilami has very long tail. I suggest making it 26 cm (12”). That size won’t make it too long and will still be nice and long.

Last 5 rounds *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts), next 4rounds stitch 8sc for firmer tail body connection.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

 

Time to sew all body parts together.

Connect head and body. Sew on the arms. Place them around rounds 24-25. Round 25 needs to be left free as you will put additional hairs here to create fur around neck.

At the end place on and sew the ears. Sew them on top sides of the head, rounds 5-6.

When sewing use one round stitches on the head and sew through both loops of the ears. Try to make them point upwards so ears can appear fluffy and in motion.

At the end sew the tail on.

Position it centered on the lower back side of the body, 5-6 rounds upwards from feet connected round.

What is left is to embroider black spots on it’s body.

Making fur around neck (arms and legs) is optional.

As you could see, I left front loops on arms, legs and around neck area. I have put on these extra hairs around neck only.

It is done as making hair. You will hook and knot yarn pieces through front loops, and when all done, trim it in V shape (longer points in front and back).

I have also added a fish Marsupilami holds in his hand. You can add it as well if you wish.

.pdf of the pattern you can find here:

Click to access marsupilami.pdf

We have to finish our toy with one more tiny detail and it is fish Marsupilami is holding.

Fish

With same size hook and yarn of your choice

Make 2 (tail fins)

Sc4 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x2 (6 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 dec4 (4 sts)

R4 connect both fin pieces, making 8sc around

R5 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x2 ( 14 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R10-R12 sc20

From next round we’ll start decreasing so start stuffing the body as you go.

R13 *dec1, sc3* x4 (16 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc2* x4 (12 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc1* x4 (8 sts)

R16  dec4 (4 sts)

By now fish should be stuffed well. Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle with excess yarn and close the last round nicely.

Upper fin, slip stitch to 8th round top stitch on the body (work through top stitches of rounds8-5) ch1, hdc in same st, 2dc in next two sts, hdc in 4th st and sc in same

Tie off, hide ends

 

Lower side fins

Here start at 7th round stitch; ch1, hdc in same stitch, 2dc in next st, hdc &sc in third st (tie off, hide ends)

Repeat at both sides paying attention to make them as symmetrical as possible.

With white yarn and embroidery needle sew on the eyes. With black thread ad pupils on top of each eye.

Hope the fish was not difficult to make and it ended up cute.

And that’s it! Your Marsupilami is finished! Hope you have enjoyed making him and even more will enjoy playing!Marsupilami by AmigurumiBB

Thank you,

♡ Vanja

Posted on 23 Comments

Quack quack babies

Last year I have introduced Quack Quack parents. Hope you still remember them. They were accepted very well and have seen many of them done for the past few months.

One of the nice blog followers who is with me since the first day I started here is dear friend Amanda Turner. She came up with completely new pattern using the Quack one I made. She made duckling and drake first, but then was missing the baby. In order to do that she cut the original pattern in half; rows, stitches….and came up with baby duckling. Miniature, miniature duckling to make and add to duckling family.

Amanda sent me the pattern to try out and I was thrilled the way duckling was coming out. First one I made was with 5 ply cotton yarn and 2 mm hook and it ended up not bigger than 6 cm (2 1⁄2″). Being so sweet and huggable decided to try to make one even tinier than that. Grabbed 1,5 mm hook and thread no.10 and made little baby duckling of 4,5 cm (2″) tall.

What can I tell you except Amanda did great job. Pattern is easy to follow, easy to make and duckling is more than adorable.

Here are two of my little baby ducklings

Quack brothers

I have already added the .pdf of the pattern you can find here, under Free Patterns page.

Hope you will enjoy these little ones as much as I did!

All thanks to Amanda and her great job done making this pattern available for us.

Minie quacks

Posted on 26 Comments

Christmas Ornaments Part2

Colleen, our blog neighbor made a wish; as this is kind of a year when wishes are fulfilled (for some at least 😉 ) I decided to add two more patterns in Christmas Ornaments group!

How could I ever forget to make Mrs. Claus!? Or penguin ornament!!!???

Felt so guilty that started to work as soon as I red Colleen’s message! 😀

If there is anything else I have forgotten to add, please, please let me know so we can make them in time!

Like said, Mrs. Claus and penguin ornaments are finished and ready for you to try them out! Easy and fast as previous ones. MrsClaus&Penguins

Ready, steady, go!

Basic ornaments info and head pattern to make Mrs. Claus you can find here

Click to access christmas-ornaments.pdf

together with the rest of the information regarding yarn, hooks…

Mrs.Claus’s head is made of two parts only. Basic head pattern and hat on which is attatche the hair as well. Make both, attatch one to another and Mrs. Claus will be done in no time.

You can use safety eyes, 4-5mm beads or embroider eyes with black thread.

Here is how hat and hair are made to finish Mrs. Claus

Mrs. Claus’s Hat

With red yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc8* x6 (60 sts)

R10 *inc1, sc9* x6 (66 sts)

R11 sc to every second stitch (33 sts)

R12 front looks only  ch2 (counts as 1st dc), dc to same st, 2dc in each stitch around, slip stitch last dc to first chain made, attach white yarn

R13 ch2, slip stitch to next stitch, ch2, slip stitch to next…around

Tie off hide ands

 

Now add hair. We’ll add it to the hat, so once hat made, the had will be complete.

 

To back loops of R12, attach white yarn. Through next 12 stitches make single crochets (this will make the front of the hat, right above eyes)

The rest of the hat-hair make: ch8, slip stitch to next stitch, ch8, slip stitch…

When reaching first sc made earlier, slip stitch, tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat to the head.

Design face as snowman, or make Mrs Clous look the way you prefer. I used same facial features as ones used for Snowmen and Santas described in Christmas Ornaments post.

Lady Santa is done 😉

Penguin & MrsClaus Ornaments

Next one is Penguin!

Penguin ornament

We will make same size basic head but this time will work in two colors.

White and color of your choice for the penguin.

 

Before we start, for those that don’t know how to change colors, let me say a word or two.

Whenver I will write “change color” – will count as one sc.

To change color, you will work with working color. Pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over with the working color yarn, pull it through the loop. Having two loops on the hook!

To finish the stitch, now change the color; yarn over new color yarn, and pull through both loops on the hook. Stitch is finished, yarn is changed.

Simple as this!

 

Start with white yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7 sc13 sts, change color, sc27, change color (42 sts)

R8 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change color, sc27, change color

R9 repeat R8

R10 sc5, change color, sc1, change color, sc5, change coolor, sc28

R11 change color, sc3, change color, cs3, change color, sc3, change color sc29

From this round working with not white color only

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff head nice and firm

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Add more stuffing if needed

R17 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing (closing) the last round nicely. Hide ends.

Tiny hat

With red yarn

Sc 6 in magic ring

R1 sc6

R2 *inc1, sc2* x2 (8 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc3* x2 (10 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc4* x2 (12 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc5* x2 (14 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc6* x2 (16 sts)

R7 *inc1, scx7* x2 (18 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc8* x2 (20 sts)

R9 reverse or crab stitch around

Tie off leaving long end for sewing the hat on the head (or if you prefer gluing, glue the hat on).

 

Pompom on top of the hat.

Made 1 cm wide pompom.

I made mine wrapping yarn over my index finger 20 times. Cut the yarn, threaded the needle, sewed and tightened the middle of pompom. Trimmed it and made it nice and round. Sewed it on top of the hat!

Beak

With yellow or orange yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x3 (12 sts)

Tie off and sew the beak on the head, right beneath and in the middle of eye section.

Place eyes (I painted mine) in the centers of white section, little bit over beak level (one row upper).

And penguin ornament is done! 😉

 

Wishing you best of time making them! For any help….drop a line!

 

Wishing you lovely end of the week and wonderful weekend to come!

With love,

Vanja

Posted on 51 Comments

Silly little Angel!

Hope you all remember little angry Angel I posted photo of few weeks ago. Dear Debi B. asked to try the pattern out. And am glad she has helped me with it. Thank you Debi!

I came out with an Angel pattern after Bonnie B. asked me to create and Angel she could make and donate to cancer ill patients in local hospital, to cheer them up and brighten their day.

That is how silly little attitude Angel came to life.

Here is a photo of two of them. Angels-AmigurumiBB

Wing pattern is not mine. Found it long time ago and used it here. If one knows the original designer and owner of the wing pattern, let me know so can give her deserved credit.

Think I better get on with pattern, as I have one (two) more patterns to share today.

Angel is made in No.10 thread and 1,50 mm crochet hook. FInished size measures 13 cm (5″).

Debi has made her angel in worsted wight yarn and F hook and her angel measures 11″. Here is the photo of her Angel.

Debi B's Angel made out Angel pattern-AmigurumiBBFrom materials you will need to make angle is thread or yarn in flash color of your choice, white yarn or thread, little bit of black embroidery thread for the eyes, stuffing, and fabric starch to block and model wings.

Abbreviations:

st(s) – stitches

Sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double corchet

ch – chain

R – round when worked in continuous rounds or row if work requires turns and straight line following.

AmigurumiBB-Angels

Head

Flash color of your choice

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R7-R11 sc42

R12 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R13 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R14 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

Begin stuffing

R15 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Add more stuffing

R16 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

Tie off.

 

Body and legs are worked together

Legs (make 2)

Start with white

Ch7

R1 sc5, 3sc in last st, work around chain, sc4, 2sc in last st (14 sts)

R2 inc1, sc4, inc3, sc4, inc2 (20 sts)

R3-R4 sc20

R5 sc5, dec5, sc5 (15 sts)

R6 dec1, sc3, dec2, sc3, dec1, sc1 (11 sts)

Stuff the bottom legs.

Change color to skin tone

R7-R26 sc11

Stuff legs very, very light.

Making body

With white thread/yarn

R1 Bring both legs together and stitch all around (both legs making one wrking piece

out of these two) (22 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc2* x7, inc last stitch (30 sts)

R3-R8 sc30

R9 BLO (back loops only) sc30

R10-R14 sc30

R15 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R16 sc24

R17 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

R18 sc18

Stuff the body nice and firm

R19 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R20 sc12

Arms (make 2)

With flash color yarn

Sc6 in magic ring

R1 *inc1, sc1* x3 (9 sts)

R2-R3 sc9

R4 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

R5*inc1, sc1 3 (9 sts)

R6-R17 sc9

Change color to white

R18 inc9 (18 sts)

R19 sc18

R20 dec9 (9 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc1* x3 (6 sts)

Stuff the sleeve.

Sew hands nicely on side of the body

Skirt

there are two different skirt patterns. I couldn’t decide which one so giving you both of them. If you look at the photo, you can see there are two different skirts. Make one you like better.

When it comes to describing patterns with dc and different stitches used I am no expert at all, so forgive me if there are mistakes or misunderstandings. If you will have difficulties, please let me know so can help you so me more with it.

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around

R2 ch3 counts as 1st dc, dc1 in same stitch, ch1, dc2 in same stitch,*skip2, dc2, ch1, dc2 in same stitch* repeat around  slip stitch last to first 3chain made and continue with next round

R3  *dc2 in chain of shell made in R2, ch1 2dc in same loop* around

R4-R5 repeat R3

Second skirt pattern I used

Slip stitch to any front loop stitch of the upper body part R29 and work

R1 *inc1, sc1* around , slip stitch last to first

R2 working in back loops only, *hdc, sc, hdc over next three stitches, long dc (inserting the hook in the base of sc made previous round)* work this pattern 1 round

R3 ch3, turn, working in both loops (will work every second stitch this round) in each long dc of previous round sc1, skip one, and sc3 in one stitch, skip one- sc1 in long dc….continue this way around

R4 repeat R2

R5 repeat R3

R6 repeat R2

R7 repeat R3

R8 repeat R2

R9 5dc in sc made previous round, sc in long dc made previous round – repeat this around

Tie off hide ends

Halo (star)

Sc5 in magic ring

R1 ch3, *dc1, ch1, dc1 in same stitch* x4, dc1, ch1 slip stitch to chain made at start

You will create 5 petals or five points of the star

R2 ch3, *dc to chain between two dc (dc-ch-dc at previous round), ch3, slip stitch in between petals, ch3* x4 ch3 and slip stitch to the base of first chain made in this round.

Tie of leaving long end for sewing

Sew the star on top of angel’s head.

Hair

In white color thread/yarn

Sc4 in magic ring (do not close the ring) ch1, turn

Making rows here, so chain nad turn ater aech row is done

R1 inc4 (8 sts)

R2 *inc1, sc1* x4 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc2* x4 (16 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc3* x4 (20 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc4* x4 (24 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc5* x4 (28 sts)

R7-R11 sc28

R12 do not turn, ch1, and work on sides (edges), sc around until you reach magic ring,

 

In magic ring sc1, ch9, starting at second ch from hook, slip stitch 8

Repeat this two more time (making 3 bangs)

When finished with bangs, continue with single crochet stitches around next side of the hair. Reaching end, tie off.

You can either make braids, pony tails, curls

Make them on the side of the head, using last row to slip stitch and continue work

I made braids, waving the thread to first three stitches on each side, then making

braids and folding them beneath the hair. Added wool bows on top of them.

Same way you can make curls. Slip stitch to side stitch, chain desired length for curl to be and either double or triple stitch to one chain stitch in order to reach curly look.

Repeat that for two or three stitches one each side.

For pony tails, make little tassels and sew on sides.

Angel Wing Pattern

Ch7

R1 Dc to 3rd ch from hook, dc1 to next, dc2 in next, dc1, next, dc2 next (8dcs)

R2 Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , dc to next dc on previous row, *ch2, dc*  across this row (last dc will be in the place of chain3 of previous row-to achieve this skip last “normal dc from previous row and stitch dc into chain (7dcs+1ch3)

R3 Ch2 turn, 2dc-ch2-2dc in second ch2 made previous row, skip one chain and repeat 2dc-ch2-2dc two more times (same way, skipping one chain and making cluster to next),to finish this row, make last dc to beginning chain of previous row

R4 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc repeat three times making them in place of chains of each cluster made previous row. Finish of with dc made in last chain of previous row

R5 Ch2, turn,  3dc-ch2-3dc clusters make again in chains of each cluster made previous row. Exception this time is ch2 between each cluster made. Finish with dc in chain of previous row

R6 Ch2, turn, 3dc-ch2-3dc-ch2-sc to next chain of previous row

R7 Ch4, turn, 4dc-ch2-4dc made in chain of cluster made previous row, finish row with dc to chain of previous row

Here is photo of both wings made (not blocked yet). Just to give you idea on how they should look like.Angel Wings

To finish – the pattern uses picots and single crochet around the wing.

Picots are made: ch3 on last working sc and then slip stitch to the base of the stitch (or you can slip stitch to 3rd chain from hook)

If picot is difficult, you can single crochet around wing, just to make it firmer, or you can leave it as it is.

After both wings are finished, sew them together over beginning 5 chain stitches.

Use some fabric starch to harden and model the wings nicely.

And that is it! Angel done in no time!

Hope you have enjoyed and will even more when your Angel will be finished.

It is really fun little one to have near. Makes me smile whenever I see it!

Thank you everyone!

Love,

Vanja