Posted on 22 Comments

One Piece Boy for Carolyn

Hello dear friends,

At the beginning of this week received a mail from Carolyn who asked me if I could help her with boy’s clothes for one piece doll.  Accepted it right away! 🙂

There is really not so many crocheted boy dolls, right!? I remember my son at age 3-5 was crazy about dolls. Believe it or not, we went shopping for barbies and such dolls – barbie sisters and babies were his favorites. I am not joking!  He was crazy about dolls! Was just a faze in his childhood, but I enjoyed that faze and doll shopping 😀

So today I finished this one piece boy you can make.One piece boy

What is different from doll, as you can see, I crocheted the shirt and shoes while making the body. Made him the same size as girl one, but am thinking of making the feel longer for the future dolls. Have to try it out with few different measurements to see which one works the best.

Face is painted with hobby textile paints, Marabu in different colors (white, light blue, black, medium brown, wild rose pink), and 0/3 brush. Marabu colors are water based textile colors for cotton, acrylic, wool… Can be washed on 60 degrees Celsius.

For all that asked about cheeks and how to blush them! Rhondda! (Rhondda is dear blogger friend. We talked about this painting the cheeks and trying out different techniques.) It is working fine! 😉 As I told you, was going to try with textile paints, and have to say that these work just fine. BUT! I have painted on cotton! Keep in mind that it might be more challenging and difficult to paint the fuzzy yarns.

Painting the face was fun. I didn’t make any patterns or got prepared for it, took the doll and just painted. Started with white, when dried, added light blue, when dried, added black (for eyes making).

Think this method can really personalize your doll!

Look at this boy, doesn’t he look cutely silly painted like this? 🙂

one piece boy

Let me explain how he is made!

Like I said, shirt, together with shoes are done making the head-body, piece.

Follow one piece doll pattern for the head and body until the row 21

This part is done in the skin color of your choice.

Change the color to one you would like to make the shirt. (I suggest you make one color shirt instead of complicating it all with two colors or more, and changing colors….make it easy and fun)!

rows 22-25  shoulders

Make arms as from one piece doll pattern.

Make 5 rows in shirt color, change color to one you use as skin color and last 4 rows finish with it.  Before last row, stuff the arm, make the last row, tie off, close the last row nicely, sewing it all around and hiding the end.

Repeat the same for the second arm.

Once done with the arms, continue with the body using shirt color of your choice.

Make body from row 26 to 33.

Now again change the colors, from shirt one to skin color and start making the legs.

Make legs in skin color from row 35 to 46.

Change color to one you would like to use for shoes.

What I did here is I stitched 2sc in one stitch to the 4 front facing stitches (to make feet looking more like shoes – not much, but again they are kind off larger than the rest of the legs). You might be asking what is the front of the doll. You will have to decide which one will be the front, so both shoes will be made the same way (4 increasing stitches in front – single crochet for the rest of the stitches). This was ROW 47 we have made.

R48 sc18 stitches

R49 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

stuff the leg here, nicely and firmly before finishing with last row.

R50 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off, sew the last row nicely, hide the end of the yarn inside the leg.

Repeat same steps for the next leg too!


ch32 – sl st to the first, stitch to form the circle, ch1 (waist part of the paints finish with slip stitch to the chain of the previous row, so you will get nice and even trousers “cut”.

there are 6 rows making the waist part of the trousers. The only thing to point out making this, is that every row you need to increase by two. I did my increases on every 16th stitch.

The last, 6th row will count 42 stitches this way.

At this point we are making leggings. Each one will count 21 stitch for the all 5 rows how long the leggings will be made.

What I did, I flattened the trousers piece made, counted 21 left side = 21 right side

Slipped stitched, ch1 to one of the “circles” (leggings) I decided to make first and continued with single crochet of 21 stitch for each row. (5 rows in total).

leggings are done in continuous rounds, only connecting the stitches at first row I did with slip stitch and chain.

I don’t think you will have any problems finishing the second legging. You will have 21 free stitches to connect at start/end, and continue with 21 stitch rows for the total of 5 rows to finish the legging.

Tie off, hide ends!

For the chest part of the trousers, find the middle, mark that stitch and count four to each side (making total of 9 stitches.

Slip stitch the yarn to first stitch of these nine you counted, ch1, and stitch the following 8 stitches (making the first row of 9 stitche

make 5 rows of 9 stitches for this part.

continue making suspenders now:

chain21 and slip stitch20 going back.

sc9 again, making R6 at trousers top, at the last stitch continue making other side suspenders as well; ch21, slip stitch 20, finish with slip stitch to he side stitch of the last row.

You can sew the suspenders at the back of the trousers, tie off, hide ends.

Pockets were done with little bit of brown felt I cut and glued on trousers.

Here is the side view of the boy so you can see how are the trousers finished and how the hair looks fro the hair looks from piece boy


This little guy is really curly one! I made the hair making chains of 10 stitches and then made 2 single crochet stitches in each stitch repeating the same procedure for every stitch around the hair piece made.

If you ask me, for fairly curly, but still nice and curly hair you can do this method of chain and slip stitch for every second stitch around.

Here is how the base was done:


R1-R5 sc20

for the next 6 rows, at the beginning of the row, skip 1st stitch and continue. This way you will shape the back of the hair piece into nice and round for the ringlets to fit just perfectly.

Do as you would usually make the row, ch1 at the end, turn and just skip the first stitch. This chain will round the end nicely.

Once done with the base, start making ringlets. For each of the stitch around ch10, slip stitch9

Finishing the last stitch tie off leaving pretty long end for sewing the hair to the head .


Hat really doesn’t fit in the way to stand on his own. It is more as decoration while photo was taken. If you want hat to fit and stay on the head, you will need to stuff it an sew it on. I just pinned mine while taking the photos.

Here it is how is made


R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6-R9 sc48 sts

tie off hide end.

sunshield part – made in rows

sc4 in magic ring, ch1 turn (do not close the ring at this point)

R1 inc4, ch1 turn

R2 inc1, sc1 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R3 inc1, sc2 -repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R4 inc1, sc3 -repeat this row (ch 1 turn)

R5 inc1, sc4 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R6 inc1 sc5 – repeat this row (ch1 turn)

R7 inc1, sc6 – repeat this row

Place the sunshield to the base of the hat and single crochet connecting both pieces. Stitch through the back loops only (on the hat’s base) so the sunscreen can flip easily and stand straight once connected to the base.

And your boy is done!

Aha! The puppy!

The puppy is 5 minutes project. Very easy to be made. Takes more to sew the parts than to make them.

I have done it this way:


sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6 (12)

R2-R7 sc 12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close the last row nicely, hide end


sc6 in magic ring

R1-R2 sc6

R3 inc3 sc3 (9 sts)  – this place where you are increasing will be the top of your dog’s head. In between this and next row you wil lembroider the eyes later)

R4 *inc1, sc1* x3 sc3 (12 sts)

R5-R7 sc12 sts

R8 dec6

tie off, close last row nicely, sew the head on the body (body- horizontally, head on top of one side)

Legs (make4)

sc5 in magic ring

R1-R4 sc5 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. You can sew legs as dog is standing or you can sew them as he is sitting. Adjust the leg position accordingly.



R1 sl st 4

tie off leaving long end for sewing.


For some the way I made ears will sound strange, but I made them this way and they fit very nice 🙂

ch5 – we will work around the chain

sl st1, sc1, hdc1 – ch1 – work around the chain hdc1 (to 4th stitch we haven’t worked on yet), sc1, sl st1, tie off

You should have a nice tear shaped ear now. Make another one and sew them on top of the head.

Nose and eyes are embroidered with black thread but can hardly see them on this dark brown puppy.

Using black thread embroider the top of the nose and eyes.

Collar was done in chain adequate to fit the dog’s neck.

And that’s it! Boy and his puppy are done! 🙂

Hope you like this one as you liked the girl. Looking forward to see your girls and boys done.

One more photo and we are done 😉DSC01760

Wishing you all wonderful and happy weekend!

Till next week, reagards,



Posted on 22 Comments

One piece doll – part II – first outfit done – Flower Girl

Last week I introduced you to one piece doll. Flat face one as well. Even though there are endless possibilities to play with the basic pattern I have shared with you last week, for this week I have just made the clothes and hair for the same doll I made last week.

By now you all know that I like to keep things simple, very simple when it comes on crocheting. This one is simple to make, but ended up with more than just few details to be made. Think many features could have been done while making the doll’s body, such as, shirt for example, or shoes in different colors. Even the hair base (back of the head) could have been made at that stage.  At the end it all depends what are you making doll for or for whom to play with.

For girls that love to dress their dolls, then this one is perfect. You can take every single pice of her clothes off, and if moms or grandmothers have time and will to make different outfits, even better.

For those that would like simple and fast project to do, I suggest to add few colors “down the road” while making the body. Crochet shirt starting right after the row where 18 stitches (the neck round). Use same color for the arms, change to color you used for skin at last two rows on arm making.

You can even make a panties in different color. Change color for panties three-four rows before ending the body (starting the legs).

For the shoes, change color again when finishing the legs.

Like I said many possibilities there are. You just have to play a little.

If the doll is to small, or short, and you would like bigger one, add few rows on the arms, body, legs…..Just play! Making dolls is fun! 🙂

If you will need any assistance or would like to make changes to this basic doll pattern, please do not hesitate to ask. Will be glad to help you on your journey making your own doll design.

Here it is my one pice doll. Named her Flower Girl…you will see why 😉Flower Girl  - One piece flat head doll -Part II - clothes pattern

As I was making this one I wished I could sew. So many beautiful outfits I imagine for her! Hope some of you will make the doll and sew on the clothes. If so, please let me see and enjoy your creations. I would also use the chance to invite anyone that will create clothes or will have ideas about it, to share them with us.  This is why we are here!

Just few more photos of side and back view so you can get better idea on how she looks when completely done.

Flower Girl - One piece flat head doll

Flower Girl - One piece Flat Doll

Now let me tell you how clothes, hat, hair and shoes are done.


You will be crocheting the dress vertically, in rows, back loops only.

Choose two different colors, change color each row.

My dress has only 15 stitches. It is made to fit the body line to right below shoulders.

There are 2 basic row patterns that you will be repeating all the way.


R1 single crochet 15 stitches (chain1 – turn)

R2 single crochet x5, double crochet x5, triple(treble) crochet x5  -chain 1 turn

repeat R1-R2 13 times – finish with R1 stitching through back loops of the last row and “chain loops” of first row made. Tie off, hide the ends.

White”lacy” ending on the dress: slip stitch to the row where you made single crochet only.

Chain 3, and slip stitch to next single crochet row. Repeat this for entire dress’s length.

Dress’s top

chain 30

R1 single crochet 30 stitches

R2 *increase1, single crochet 3* – repeat 6 times

R3 *increase1, single crochet4* – repeat 6 times

R4 *increase 1, single crochet5* – repeat 6 times

R5 *increase1, single crochet6* – repeat 6 times

R6 sc10, hdc5, dc6, hdc, sc, sl st2, sc, hdc, dc6, hdc5, sc10

Tie off leaving long end for making the chain for the button loop later.

Make button this way:

sc4 in magic ring

cs4, tie off, leaving long end for sewing the button on dress’s top later.

You will need to connect/sew bottom and top of the dress. Do that by sewing a little in front (where I placed the flower),

and on the back. Now sew on the button, make a chain to create a loop for the button to hold, sew this chain, hide ends. Your dress is finished.

In front, where I have placed the flower, you can decorate with beads, bows…

Flower I made was done this way:

Sc5 in magic ring,

change color, slip stitch to next stitch,

ch2, hdc, ch2, slip stitch to next stitch … repeat this for next for petals.

Tie off, sew the flower on.


– is really simple one! You can use this pattern on round heads as well. Than, instead of starting it from the chain, start from magic ring and proceed with pattern when reaced row with 30 stitches on (what I suggest if working on max. row counting 48 stitches).

Ch 12

R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, sc9, 2sc in one st. (24)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc10 inc1, sc1, inc1, sc, inc1, sc10, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 (36)

R4 sc1, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1 sc2, inc1, sc11, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc1 (42)

R5 sc2, in1, sc12, in1, sc3, in1, sc3, inc1, sc12, inc1, sc3 inc1, sc1 (48)

R6 sc24, *inc1, sc3* x6

R7 sc24, *inc1, sc4* x6

R8 sc24 *inc1, sc5* x6

R9 dc24 *inc1, sc6* x6

Change color to make a border.

Sc24, chain 31 (or more, depends how long yu want to be the bow to tie the hat), slip stitch30

slip stitch to next stitch, *ch3, skip one st, slip stitch to next, ch3* – repeat till the end.

Ch31, slip stitch 30.

Tie off, hide ends. Hat is finished.

You can decorate it with crocheted flowers if you like.


sc6 in magic ring

R1 inc6

R2 *inc1, sc1* x6

R3 sc18 st, back loops only

R4 decrease 3 times, sc12, ch1

at this point we are stopping to crochet in rounds, starting to make a row, so turn back

R5 sc12 sts

make a chain of 4 stitches and slip stitch it to the opposite side of the row.

Tie off, hide ends.

Repeat the same for the second shoe.

Ready for the hair?

It is done in rows as well.


R1 sc30 – ch1

R2 sc30 -ch1

R3 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5 -ch1

R4 sc5, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sl st2, hdc2, dc5, hdc2, sc5

You don’t have to tie off at this point, but start making the ringlets on this side you were finishing.

I made 4 ringlets on each side, fitting 4 row ends.

Ringlets are done starting with 21 stitches long chain and 20hdc increases in each stitch.

When done with one side, tie off, hide end.

Slip stitch to the next side of the hair pice and repeat the process for four ringlets there.

Leave long end for sewing the hair on the head.

Bows – hair decoration


R1 sc4, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sl s2, hdc1, dc3, hdc1, sc4 -ch1

now instead of turning back the same row, continue working around the chain

repeat the same pattern as in R1 on the other side of the chain.

Connect two ends with slip stitch. Tie off, but leave long end. Thread the tapestry needle with this yarn.

Wrap the yarn across the bows middle, tightly. Wrap it few times until nice middle is formed. Using the needle, tighten the yarn at the back of the bow, going through the wrapped middle one or two times. Make a knot, and sew the bow on the h

And that’s it! Your doll is almost done.

Sew on the hair, the bows, dress your doll and design the face (if you haven’t done it yet).

And it is done! Your first one piece doll is finished 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed making this doll. one piece doll - flower girl part2 - how to make clothes - free pattern

Wishing you all happy crocheting time!

Pleasant end of the week and great weekend to all!

Posted on 45 Comments

One piece doll

Hello everyone,

All of you that follow me here, by now know that I am in continuous research of something new when it comes to crocheted dolls.

I love dolls and for the few weeks have been inspired with cloth dolls, specially the Holly Hobbie and Raggedy dolls. That is why I tried to make a doll in one piece with flat head; one you would get if sewing the doll.

Have to say that it really was a challenge. By now I have finished the little one. She is 15 cm / 5,5″ tall. Have the pattern and we can start working and making many, many different kind of dolls from this one.

I will share this basic doll pattern just for the doll with you today, but will keep on adding different features and patterns related to her (clothes, hair, shoes making….) as soon as I make them and write the patterns. Will have lots of work with this doll in the future 😀

As I said, this doll and the pattern is done for the flat looking head.  If you prefer round head, as most of the ami dolls have, start with sc6 in magic ring and continue increasing each row until you reach 48 stitches. at this point repeat 48 stitches for 5-6 rows, then start decreasing until you reach 18 stitches, from where you can continue following this pattern to finish the body, arms and legs in one piece.

For this doll I used 2 mm crochet hook.

Light peach color yarn, DK

Fiber fill for stuffing.

Tapestry needle for closing the row ends and gaps between the limbs.

All doll is worked in continuous rounds.



Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – increase (2 single crochet in one stitch)

Dec – decrease (invisible decrease or 2sctog) – I used invisible decrease


- cloth doll inspired crochet -

cloth doll inspired crochet


R1 sc10, 3sc in one st, start stitching around the chain (we are making oval), sc9, 2c in one st (24 sts)

R2 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R3 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R4 inc1, sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R5 inc1, sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

R6-R15 sc 48 sts

R16 dec1, sc18, dec3, sc18, dec2 (42)

R17 dec1, sc15, dec3, sc15, dec2 (36)

R18 dec1, sc12, dec3, sc12, dec2 (30)

R19 dec1, sc9, dec3, sc9, dec2 (24)

R20 dec1, sc6, dec3, sc6, dec2 (18)

Begin stuffing the head at this point.

R21-R22 sc18 sts

Stuf the head some more if needed, and continue stuffing the doll as we go.

R23 inc1, sc6, inc3, sc6, inc2 (24)

R24 inc1, sc9, inc3, sc9, inc2 (30)

R25 sc30 sts

R26 inc1, sc12, inc3, sc12, inc2 (36)

R27 inc1 sc15, inc3, sc15, inc2 (42)

R28 inc1 sc18, inc3, sc18, inc2 (48)

We are starting to make arms here.

R1 sc5, sl st to 5th stitch from the end, ch1,  sc5 (10 sts) -to make it easier …. Mark the first stitch at this row. From this stitch, going backwards, count 5 stitches and mark that stitch too. This will be the 6th stitch you will single crochet and continue till you make 10sc for one arm round.

R2-R8 sc10 sts

R9 dec5

Tie off leaving long end. Stuff the arm from the inner side. Thread the needle and wave the thread through the outer stitches (5 of them) now pull gently, stuck the needle from the center of this circle made and pull it through the arm to close the gap and hide the access thread.

Second arm – slip stitch to the last “edge stitch” on the opposite side (of the first arm made) of the row 28

R1 sc5, sl st to the 5th stitch from the end, ch1, sc5 (10 sts)

R2-R8 10 sts

R9 dec5 (5 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff the arm and close the last row as described for the first arm made.

Now comes the rest of the body part.

Slip stitch to one of the stitches closest to either one of the arms. Ch1

R29 sc28 sts

R30-36 sc28 sts

At this point we are starting to make legs. Stuff the body so we can continue.

Now look at the last row. Mark the middle, count (equally) 14 stitches on each side.

R37 sc7, sc to the opposite side (this should be the 7th stitch from your first made in this row), sc7, making circle of 14 stitches for one leg. (same process as for making the arm, but here we have 14 stitches in total)

R38-R49  sc14sts

R50 dec7

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the leg. Close the last row as described under arm session. You might want to leave the thread available for sewing the gap between the legs (and arms if the gap under arm is visible).

Slip stitch to one of the stitches left on the row36. Ch1 (this should be easy, because you have only 14 stitches left 😉

R37 sc14 sts

R38-R49 sc14 sts

R50 dec7

Tie off and repeat as with first leg.

Sew the gap between the legs and under arms if visible.

You have just finished making doll in one piece!

Now dress her, sew on the hair,  paint or design her face and let your daughter or granddaughter enjoy!

Like I said, there will be many patterns for this doll available.

Here is another photo of the doll with just the hat on. DSC01681

Just to give you an idea what direction the doll I am working on is going 😀

Hope you have enjoyed. If you ask me, this “one pice doll” is great for kids to play with and is really, really easy to do in any size you like.

Looking forward to hear all of your comments and suggestions. Even ideas on what to do are welcome!

Thank you for your time spent with me here!

Wishing you all wonderful weekend,