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Baby Unicorn

I missed you all!!!!!

It’s been a while since my last post and I apologize for it. Took me a while to think of what to make for my comeback and how to express my gratitude for all your letters of support, simple hello messages and letting me know you are here, missing me and waiting for me to return. I have no words to thank you! Your selfless and generous hears have left me speechless. What I can do is to make many more free patterns available for you to enjoy, and to try to help you whenever needed.

As you can see, there are some changes on this web, and I am still working on it. I have extended it in order to add shop. Through the shop I will add some of my patterns which I have for sale. In time will add finished toys done by myself and my friends as well as materials (specially local ones) I use in my creations that are not available in your country. This way I invite all to join me in this venture. If you are interested in selling pattern or finished product on this shop, please feel free to contact me and we’ll find solution suitable for both.
We can talk more about shop later…and as I said, feel free to email me if having any questions.

Today I wish to show you Baby Unicorn which was born last week.
This lovely Baby Unicorn pattern is adopted and simplified BB Dragon pattern 

Materials used:

 

Double knit cotton yarn in white for major parts of head and body. Secondary color of your choice for accents on head, arms and legs. Color of your choice for mane and tail. If you choose to make mane and tail in multicolor yarns, choose 5 different colors.

 Cotton thread No.10 or any similar weight thread in black and color of your choice for eyes), tiny bit of white (or white textile paint to add light dots on the eyes)

 Crochet hook 2,5 mm

Crochet hook 1,50 or 1,75 mm (for eyes)

 Embroidery needle for finishing touches on eyes (if decide to embroider light points on each eye)

Darning needle for sewing the parts together

Glue and/or invisible thread for attaching the eyes

 

Difficulty: Easy to intermediate

 

Size: finished toy measures 13 cm (5 inches) seated

 

Abbreviations (US terminology used):

St(s) – stitch(es)

Ch – chain stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Inc – increasing stitch

Dec – decreasing stitch

** – repeat what between start by number of times that follows behind (Xn)

R – round

Work in continuous rounds or spiral work unless stated different.

Head

Start working with light blue, pink or any other color yarn you choose to make nose.

Ch6

R1 starting from the second chain from hook sc4, 3 sc in the last chain stitch, continue working around chain. Sc3, stitch 2sc in the last stitich (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1 inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, (24 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1 (30 sts)

R5 sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc3, inc1, sc6, inc1, sc3, inc1 (36 sts)

R6 sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc7, inc1, sc4, inc1 (42 sts)

R7-R10 sc42

On the last stitch of the previous round change color to white and continue.

R11-R14 sc 42

R15 sc4, inc11, sc27 (53 sts)

R16 sc14, inc1, sc38 (45 sts)

R17 sc40, ch8, skip8 sts, sc6

(46 sts, 8 ch = 54 sts)

R18 sc40, sc8 using chain stitches, sc6   (54 sts)

R19-R23 sc54

R24 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R25 sc48

R26 *dec1, sc6* x6 (42 sts)

R27 sc42

R28 *dec1, sc5* x6 (36 sts)

R29 *dec1, sc4* x6 (30 sts)

R30 *dec1, sc3* x6 (24 sts)

R31 *dec1, sc2* x6 (18 sts)

Stuff the head nice and firm.

R32 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R33 dec6 (6 sts)

Tie off.

 

Eyes (make2)

With crochet thread No.10 and steel hook of 1,50 or 1,75 mm

Start using black, for pupil

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

Change color to one of your choice, to make iris

R3 sl st, 2sc in next st, 2hdc in next 2 stitches, 2sc in next st, slip stitch to next and tie off

Embroider white lines or dots on each of the eye to bring life to them or use textile paint and add white dots as you can see I made on photo aside.

 

Ears (make2)

Ch4

R1 sc2, 3 sc in one stitch, work around chain, sc2

R2 ch1 turn. Sc2, 2sc in next st, 2dc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc2

Tie off leaving long end for sewing ears on the head later

 

 

Horn

R1 sc6 in magic ring

Work in back loops only

R2 sc6

R3 inc1, sc5 (7sts)

R4 inc1, sc6 (8 sts)

R5 inc1, sc7 (9 sts)

R6 inc1, sc8 (10 sts)

R7 inc1, sc9 (11 sts)

R8 inc1, sc10 (12 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing later. Stuff a little

 

Legs (make2)

Ch6

Start with color of your choice chosen for making your unicorn unique (light blue, pink, yellow, light green…)

R1 sc4, 3sc in one st, continue working around the chain, sc3, 2sc in last st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc24

R5 sc3, popcorn stitch,sc1, popcorn, sc1, popcorn, sc16 (24 sts)

R6-R7 sc24

Working the last stitch on the previous round change color to white and continue

R8 (sc1, dec1) x5, sc7, dec1  (18 sts)

R9-R18 sc18

Stuff the leg nice and firm, flatten the last row and stitch through both sides making 8sts across. Tie off and leave long end for sewing later.

 

Arms (make2)

Ch6

Start with color of your choice chosen for making your unicorn unique (light blue, pink, yellow, light green…)

R1 sc4 starting from second chain from hook, 3 sts in one sc, continue working around chain, sc3, 2sc in one st (12)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc3, sc3, inc2 (18 sts)

R3-R6 sc18

Working the last stitch on the previous round change color to white and continue.

R7 (sc1, dec1) x6 (12 sts)

R8-R20 sc12

Stuff the arm nice and firm.

Flatten last row and stitch through both sides with 5sts across. Tie off leaving long end for sewing later.

 

Body

R1 Sc6 in  magic ring (6 sts)

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 (inc1, sc1) x6 (18 sts)

R4 (inc1, sc2) x6 (24 sts)

R5 (inc1, sc3) x6 (30 sts)

R6 (inc1, sc4) x6 (36 sts)

R7 (inc1, sc5) x6 (42 sts)

R8 (inc1, sc6) x6 (48 sts)

R9-R18 sc48 sts

R19 (dec1, sc6) x6 (42 sts)

R20 sc42

R21 (dec1, sc5) x6 (36 sts)

R22 sc36

R23 (dec1, sc4) x6 (30 sts)

R24 sc30

R25 (dec1, sc3) x6 (24 sts)

R26 sc24

R27 (dec1, sc2) x6 (18 sts)

R28 sc18

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Stuff the body nice and firm.

 

Mane (make 5)

Use yarn in different colors. I’ve chosen nice pastel colors, but you don’t have to follow my lead. Important is to make 5 pairs of mane which will be sewed on head later.

Make each piece as follows:

Ch31

*Starting from the second chain from hook and crocheting on the back loops of the chain

Inc20, sc10*;

Chain next 31 sts again and repeat **  (30 sts x2)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing mane on the head later

 

Tail (make 5)

 

Use same colors as used for mane. Make 5 hairs for tail.

Ch25

Starting from the second chain from hook and crocheting in the back loops of the chain

Inc20, sc5  (25 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing tail later.

 

How to assemble and more details you can find in free download I can prepared for you and you can find it under

Free Patterns Page or using direct link to Baby Unicorn.

Hope you like it so far and much more I am looking for is to see your Baby Unicorns made and ready to play with.

 

 

 

That is all for now! Looking forward to my next post and hearing from you meantime.

Sending you lots of love and hugs

Vanja

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Time flies when we work or play… or simply enjoy the life! For the past moth I have been working and playing with my work a lot!

Finally, and yes, finally have managed to finish Flip the grasshopper pattern, one from the series of already started (Maya & Willy), and yet not all finished patterns (ants, hornets…) from Maya the Bee movie.

Finishing the pattern was disturbed and prolongated by various toys I had to make to order, and here are some of them you can see.

Made to order toys by AmigurumiBBLeonardo from Teenage Ninja Turtles and Laalaa from Teletubies are my own creations. With Olaf was running out of time so I took a shortcut and worked based on pattern created by  www.kasiulkoweprace.blogspot.com

Children who received them were over excited and really enjoying their time with new friends. Have to say that Olaf is on his vacations at the sea and is enjoying Mediterranian sun these days 🙂

Flip the grasshopper patiently waited for his pattern to be done, and finally I’ve managed to finish him today. He ended up as one remarkable toy. I am more than pleased with the outcome.

Flip, The Grasshopper by AmigurumiBB

This is  my second Flip. First one is already at my nieces hands, who was the initiator and has ordered all these characters from Maya the bee movie 🙂

I don;t think you’ve seen my first Flip finished, so let me  show you

Flip by AmigurumiBB Flip by AmigurumiBB1There is slight difference and variation of colors used in each of Flips made, but this will just give you the idea on what to expect if decided to start working on one of your own.

Working with 2 mm crochet hook and cotton yarn in sport weight, your Flip will end up of some 50 cm (20 “) tall (from foot to top of the hat).

Pattern is edited and prepared for you to download and use. The link you can find here

Violin or better say guitaoline Flip is holding is something I’ve done at the very last minute.

It doesn’t make part of the pattern!

As I have hard times keeping my patterns to myself, and I didn’t have time to write the violin pattern in details, I’ve decided to offer you basic violin shape pattern, I used, and make it possible for all of you to create violin by yourself.

Here is plain violin pattern :

Violin is made from three pieces. Bottom part, cover and neck.

Bottom part

Start with making ch12

R1     sc10, sc 3 in the last chain stitch, continue working around chain, sc9, sc 2 in the               last chain stitch

R2     ch1, to alter the stitch, inc hdc, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc x4, hdc, dc x2, inc dc x3, dc           x2, hdc, sc x4, hdc, x2, inc hdc x2, sl st to ch1 made at the beginning of this round

R3     ch1, hdc, inc hdc, hdc x2, sc x4, hdc, dc x2, inc dc, dc, inc dc x3, dc, inc dc, dc x2,           hdc, sc x4, hdc x2, inc hdc, hdc, inc hdc, hdc, sl st to ch1 made at the beginning of  this round

R4      sc around working in back loops only

fasten off leaving long tail for sewing later.

Cover part of violin

chain 12 and repeat from R1-R3

To make violin sides strong, you can add some cardboard inside. Cut out the shape that fits your violin and place it inside the top and bottom part of your violin. Thread the needle with tail yarn of the base violin part and sew around both part. Before closing add some stuffing. Do not overstuff! You need to keep the violin shape!

violineViolin neck:

R1     ch6, sl st last to first st to create circle and continue working in rounds

R2-R5     sc6

R6          dec1, sc4

R7-R9    sc5

R10       flatten the top round and make two sts across (working through both side stitches of your flattened piece) Make 2 sts. Continue working in rows (ch1 and turn after each row)

R11      inc2

R12-R14     sc4

R15      dec2

fasten off leaving long end for sewing. Roll the top (flattened part worked in rows) and sew it just a little so it keeps this rolled shape.

The bottom of your neck, sew on top of your violin.

Use your imagination to add details. I used toothpicks and beads for string curlers, added tiny little wooden piece to hold the strings on violins top.
Chin holder and pieces you see black are crocheted.

Bow is made from wooden stick wrapped in yarn.

violine2Making violin is fun and I hope you will find this basic pattern useful to come up with some extraordinary ideas and make your violin beautiful and Flip happy 🙂

Hope you have enjoyed your time with all these news and most of all you will enjoy your time making Flip!
Cover2Hugs to all

Vanja

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Gift of Love and Gift of Life

The Little Yellow Duck project/day is tomorrow!

I feel very sorry I came little bit late with this post and pattern but thinking as this is so very easy one, and fast one to do, you might still have time to make at least one little duck and make someone randome happy tomorrow.

What is the Little Yellow Duck Project?

The Little Yellow Duck Project involves people around the world handcrafting little yellow duck gifts as random acts of kindness that are left in public places for others to find. A special tag on each one invites the finder to take their gift home to brighten their day and to visit this website to register where they found their gift. We hope that the stories and information found here will encourage them to pledge their own random act of kindness by registering to donate blood, bone marrow, organs tissues.”

Home

More about Little Yellow Duck Project you can find on above link. On the same link you can find few of little duck patterns (crochet, knitting, sewing…), as well as special tags that go with ducks.

For this special event I have created simple duckling brooch. Who wouldn’t want and like to put on a little duckling brooch!?

DSC_0002

The pattern is already available on Free Patterns page, and you can access it from HERE

My goal is to make at least a dozen little brooches. So far have made them 8, but by tomorrow will make another 4 and leave them random places downtown.

my work in progress:ducksWishing you all wonderful Little Yellow Duck day tomorrow.

Vanja

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Waldorf Inspired Baby Doll

After almost one moth of break from new posts, returning with, I hope, lovable gift to you all.

New crochet addition to all Waldorf admirers.

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBB

Simple testing the head for this pattern has taken our little Facebook group into wonderful doll making adventure. Many new ideas opened and new patterns were created. 25 wonderful and kind ladies have applied to test the pattern. Those that finished came up with the most adorable little princess dolls 🙂 Some we still wait to finish their projects. If ladies agree I will post their photos for all of you to see.

What I am specially satisfied that not matter which weight yarn or size hook was used, the pattern worked well for all.

For the first time we have tried joining limbs with cotter pins, and making joints with whatever we could find at home. Instead of original discs, washers and cotter pins, we mounted cotter pins over buttons, and if cotter pins were not available, wire or paper clips were used. Please feel free to check on home made options on joints. Few photos and how the joints are done I have added HERE

My baby grew to little girl very fast. It is amazing how fast the kids grow these days!!! 🙂 Like mushrooms after the rain. One day I saw her bald and crying and the next one she asked for her hair to be done!

Waldorf Inspired baby by AmigurumiBB

The next day her friend showed ….

Waldorf Inspired Baby by AmigurumiBBKids!!!

🙂

The pattern is pretty long.

Pattern has several additions. I will try to explain what each of them will bring and you cna choose from.

Basic Waldorf Inspired Baby includes instructions on how to crochet baby’s body from head to toe.

This is what you will get with the basic Walsdorf Inspired Baby pattern:

Waldorf Inspired BabyThe pattern can be found and downloaded HERE

During testing the pattern, one of tester ladies and my dear friend wanted to make baby with open mouth, or the mouth baby can place her finger in, pacifier or baby bottle. Based on Waldorf’s baby head she made adjustments and came up with open mouth head which is absolute must have. I warmly recommend everyone to try this technique not just for this baby head, but for any of your baby heads in the future. Thanks to wonderful friend and generous and kind TB Cess, this pattern we can share as addition to basic Waldorf Baby.

Head with open mouth looks like this:

Waldorf Inspired Baby with open mouthand you can open and download it HERE

This head required more bent arms, so the hand and sucking finger can reach the mouth easily. For that reason I adjusted and added one more pattern for arms. Called it Sucking finger arms. You can make each arm different and still keep the same size and proportion of your baby. Rounds on both arms (one you can find in basic pattern and this one) are equal. The only difference is thumb crocheted separately and added later to position you prefer and position that matches baby’s mouth the best, and this arm is bent little bit more in the elbow.

Sample on these arms you can see here:

DSC_0003Pattern can be viewed and downloaded from HERE

Hair for Waldorf doll’s I made and I always make following Beth Webber’s photo tutorial. This is the best one on the web  I have encountered so far and all of you who are following me for long time by now, know that I keep repeating myself and suggesting By Hook By Hand blog any time I can, because Beth always inspires  me  with her doll creations. Her patterns and tutorials are easy to follow and yet all are masterly made.

Photo tutorial on how to make wig for your doll you can find HERE

Following this tutorial I have made simple wig cap, and here are few details.

DSC_0004DSC_0002DSC_0003What I have said to the ladies who tested the pattern, when working on the wig, so will tell you too. Same as with crochet work, in wig making and waving the hairs on, you have right and wrong side. While following Beth’s tutorial, pay attention on how the hairs are waved to the wig. It makes huge difference later. If you will need more help regarding this, please feel free to ask and I will make a short post, showing you through photos what exactly to pay attention to.

At the end what is left are the clothes.

Clothes are crocheted in No.5 thread and still using 2 mm hook. Writing pattern for babies clothes and making it perfect to fit everyone, if you ask me, is the hardest part for most of us who write patterns wishing the pattern will work the same for all.

For that reason I tried to make pattern(s) easy enough so each and every one of you can adjust the stitch count based on yarn and hook used. Important is to work with lighter yarn and adjust the stitch count accordingly. By any chance don’t try crocheting clothes with same weight yarn as doll was made of, or even worse, using heavier one. Clothes needs to be light and fluffy. For this doll I have tried to keep clothes old fashioned.

Created little girlish top,

DSC_0005DSC_0006Nice little pants that can fit the baby even if she wears diapers on,DSC_0007DSC_0008and sock looking booties.
DSC_0009All are very, very easy to make. You can view them or download them HERE

Little by little we came to the end 🙂 I hope I haven’t missed anything.

Hope you have enjoyed seeing this new baby pattern, and even more I hope you will enjoy every second while making one.

For any questions, please feel free to write and ask.

Wishing you all happy, relaxing and blessed weekend.

Vanja

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Bunny Babies and other Easter additions….

Can you believe I haven’t shared any new pattern in 2015?

This year started with amigurumi lessons (and there are still more than few coming), and even though I worked on my new patterns all these time, haven’t found time to share them here. Have to break that “magic circle”!

Easter is month ahead but I think, it’s not too early to start with preparing and sharing something cute for that occasion.

Bunny Babies! Ta-daah!

Bunny Babies by AmigurumiBB aWhen making these bunnies I really felt as making baby toy, so they ended up as Bunny Babies and are suitable for nursery rooms and baby showers, so not necessarily Easter toy to make. If making as baby toy, stay alert when adding eyes. I suggest to embroider ones, if baby will play with toy (and skip the ribbon).

Bunny Baby by AmigurumiBBBunny Babies by AmigurumiBBPattern for these lovable Bunny Babies you can find under Free Patterns Page, or direct link here

I’ve also prepared two more Easter patterns:

Colorful Easter Eggs

Colorful Easter Eggs by AmigurumiBBand fun and playful Dixie Chick

Dixie Chick by AmigurumiBB

Dixie Chick

Both of these two patterns, for the first time, I offered for sale and you can find them in my Etsy Shop

If you feel as buying me cup of coffee or skein of yarn, please feel free to visit the shop.

Thank you for stopping by and taking time to read this post.

Hope you like new patterns and will find something for you and your loved ones.

Wishing you all wonderful Friday and happy, blessed weekend to come!

Vanja

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Christmas Elves Pattern

Presenting you the Christmas Elves pattern!

Christmas Elves - AmigurmiBB

My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep around 😀

Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are really looking for one of them I am sure you have already started making some of them. If not, check the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern soon.

For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses in crazy and bright holiday colors.

Less talking and more working!

Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.

I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as many photos as I could take. I know there will be some that will need more clarifications, so please do not hesitate to write and ask.

If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will make correction a.s.a.p.

Christmas Elves

Christmas Elves - AmigurumiBB

Materials needed:

Medium weight cotton yarn:

        • colors of your choice:
          • skin
          • green (in two shades)
          • white
          • red
          • yellow, brown or any other color for the hair
        • 7 mm safety eyes
        • 2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is used for the hat only)
        • red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for lips)
        • needles for sewing the parts together and mouth embroidery
        • textile glue (for the hair)
        • textile hardener (starch)
        • powder blush or oil based crayons to color the cheeks

Finished size: 24 cm / 9.5 inches

Gauge: 8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5 cm). Try to obtain the gauge when working head and body.

Abbreviations (US terms):

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.

pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch. Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch. This stitch is used for making nose.)

fpsc – front post single crochet

R – row or round

* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following after

inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)

dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in order to create 1 stitch)

blo – work only the back loops of the stitch

flo – work only the front loops of the stitch

note:

if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less visible as possible.

Change color on the last stitch of the previous round (having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second color and draw through these loops to close the stitch).

Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.

Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip stitch was made (now making the stitch through both loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the round. When reaching the end and starting new round, skip the slip stitch.

 

Head

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x6 (12 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x1* x6 (18 sts)

R4: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R5: *inc x1, sc x3* x6 (30 sts)

R6: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R8, R9: sc x42 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x9, inc x1, sc x21 (45 sts)

R11, R12: sc x45 sts

R13 inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x10, inc1, sc x22 (48 sts)

R14, R15: sc x48 sts

R16: sc x8, inc x3, sc1, pop corn st, sc x2, inc x3, sc x30 (54 sts)

R17, R18, R19: sc x54 sts

Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15 leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes in the round below them, centered between both eyes.

R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42 sts)

R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)

R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.

 

Arms

start working with flash color yarn

R1: sc x6 in magic ring

R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)

R3: sc x9 sts

R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)

R5: sc x12 sts

R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)

stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff arms light.

R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts

change color to one you will make sleeves.

R10: blo sc x9 sts

R11: sc x9 sts

R12: blo sc x9 sts

R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts

R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)

R17 to R29: sc x10 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.

 

Legs:

start with shoes (make 2)

R1 sc x4 in magic ring

R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)

R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)

R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)

R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)

R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)

R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)

R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)

R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)

R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)

R12: sc x12 sts

pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to make the shoe tip keep desired form.

R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts

R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts

R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)

R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6 sts)

R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)

R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)

R19 ch1, turn, dec x1

R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch. We’ll skip this one on the next round)

R21: sc18

before continuing with edging around the shoe, you might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12 sts round.

Now return to shoe.

R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the last chain stitch

skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the third st.

repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st to third st* around (making 6 star points areound shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn

R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.

Tie off, hide end.

Your shoe is done. 

Here are few photos that might help you understand the shoe pattern little bit better.

Elven shoe - AmigurumiBB

Legs (x2)

working in one or multiple colors

R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on shoe

stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs nice and soft.

R2 to R31: sc x12 sts

tie off. 

Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and sew across. This will make your elf sit better.

 

Body

color of your choice

place legs side by side, both facing same direction.

R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs. Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.

Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet around making total of 30 sts. 

From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few photos on how to connect legs with chain in between. Hope it’ll help!

Connecting legs with 3 chain - AmigurumiBB

R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)

R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)

R4 to R11: sc x42 sts

R12: blo sc x42 sts

R13: sc x42 sts

R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)

R15 to R17: sc x36 sts

R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)

R19 to R21: sc x30 sts

R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)

R23 to R25: sc x24 sts

change color to collar

R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)

R27: blo sc x18 sts

change color to skin

R28: sc 18 sts

tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head together.

Stuff body nice and firm.

Elf Boy - AmigurumiBB

Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: sc x42 sts

R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts

R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)

R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts

R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)

tie off hide end.

Elf Girl - AmigurumiBB

Skirt for girl:

slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.

R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)

R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)

R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)

R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)

R5 to R10 sc x120 sts

tie off and hide end.

Belt(s):

make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls, but make sure to measure the length and add or decrease stitches accordingly.

To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up and standing in between two loops.

Look at the photo for more details.

Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the bottom and top.

For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I worked with half double crochet across the chain to create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.

Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the body to secure the belt stays in place.

Belt bucket:

work in the magic ring

sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1

close the magic ring

Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.

Glue the belt bucket on the belt.

Bow:

work in the magic ring

ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1

close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.

Hanging bow ends:

ch18, starting from the the 3rd chain st, hdc1, sl st next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch to 1 st and finish nicely.

Hide ends in the back of the bow.

Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew them or glue them on the belt.

Ears

R1: sc x10 in magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic ring. Ch1, turn.

R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

R1: sc x10 in the magic ring

don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.

R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6

ch1, turn

R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4 to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made on this side.

Tie off leaving long end for sewing.

Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.

To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry completely.

Collars:

Boy elf collar:

working on the front loops of R27 of the body

sl st to one of front loop stitches,

*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3rd * repeat around

For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).

*Ch1, sc2*… around

tie off hide ends inside the body

Girl collar:

R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)

R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1* ….around (6 petals)

tie off hide ends

edgings on sleeves:

You can try variations.

For boy I used simple single crochet around top round and then attached back loop stitches just made with front loops left on the lower arm part using single crochet again

For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the bottom line.

Hat:

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light green one you can see on girl)

Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one you used to make the doll).

I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to top. You can do either way. Important is to start stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.

On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after decreasing or increasing previous round, next two rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it would be 42. Following round either decrease or increase – depending if you started from bottom or top of the hat).

My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).

R1 to R4: sc x45 sts

R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)

R6, R7 : sc x40 sts

R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)

R9, R10: sc x35 sts

R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)

R12, R13: sc x30 sts

R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)

R15, R16: sc x25 sts

R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)

R18, R19: sc x20 sts

R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)

R21, R22: sc x15 sts

R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)

R24, R25: sc10 sts

R26: dec x5 (5 sts)

R27 to R30: sc5

tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside the hat.

After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all around.

If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24 repeatedly.

Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc remaining stitches.

I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease, all around would look same way.

Elf's hat - AmigurumiBB

For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.

Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50 stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in rounds.

Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for easier counting the stitches and rounds.

First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round

then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5, followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two rounds of same stitch count again.

From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat only.

For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5 decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches. Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on this half.

After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of the same stitch count.

This way I worked all the way it was possible to count and work decrease on the half of the hat.

Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before closing the last round.

Important is that decreases are at the same part of the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will have time I will try to write down exact pattern for this hat. It is really nice one.

I am also sure that many of you will be able to make such hat without my help.

Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)! That is all the magic there is!

Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th round finished with reverse (crab) stitch.

These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra charm to this little pixie hat.

Hair:

Elf's hair - AmigurumiBB

Boy’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
  • repeat above (ch10) three more times
  • repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

from next round do not chain1 but turn each round. Skip 1st stitch and make decrease (2nd and 3rd st). Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.

R13: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)

R14: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)

R15: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)

R16: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)

R17 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)

R18 (skip 1st st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)

R19: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)

R20: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)

R22 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)

R23: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)

R24: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)

R25 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)

R26 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)

tie off.

Close the magic ring now.

Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second chain hook, sl st3

repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side and bottom to R13 opposite side.

This will create little hairs on the back of the head. Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6 instead of 4. Will look even better than these short ones.

Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange the hairs in front of doll’s face.

Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and fringes arrange the way you like.

You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you prefer.

Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are. Loose and free. They will shape the head and give extra touch to your doll.

Girl’s hair

Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely

R1:

  • sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
  • repeat above 1 more time
  • sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
  • repeat above (ch10) one more time
  • sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
  • repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
  • sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
  • inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R6 to R12: sc x30 sts

From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row. Ch1 and turn when starting new row.

R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)

R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)

R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)

R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)

R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)

R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)

R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)

R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)

R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)

R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)

tie off.

Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.

From the photo you can see I worked only the sides. You can work all the way, including the bottom row of back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or make shorter ones.

I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to make for your doll.Elf girl's hair - AmigurumiBB

And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀

I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.

…while my elves were coming to my house from far away North they met someone special on their journey. This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted invitation with great joy.

I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll see him you’ll know why! 🙂Snowman - AmigurumiBB

The more the merrier!

DSC_0035

Regards to all,

Vanja

Posted on

Coming soon…

Here is preview of the pattern I am working on at the moment.

Christmas Elves

Christmas Elves - AmigurumiBB

Few more details to finish and if all goes well, as planned will share the pattern in few days.

Finished size of these elves made in cotton DK and with 2 mm crochet hook is 24 cm (9.5 inches) -without hat. What is special and new in this pattern are two different hair styles you will learn.

Hope you like them so far! 🙂

See you in few days with the patter and more photos to show.

Wishing you all wonderful Friday!

Vanja

Posted on

Winter dolls…

It is never late to start preparing for the winter season and by season I mean Christmas! Have many ideas for new patterns this year and hope I will have time to make and share all of them with you.

Starting with my new Winter Dolls. Elf on the shelf and his mischief girlfriends are coming next and then if time, will show you little smiling snowflakes and this year’s additions to Christmas ornaments. 

Let us start with little Winter Dolls!

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB

Materials needed:

  • double knit cotton in desired colors (body, clothes, hair)
  • white yarn that fuzz well when brushed
  • 2 mm crochet hook
  • pair of 5 mm round black beads or same size safety eyes
  • darning needle (for sewing the parts together)
  • stuffing of your choice
  • slicker brush
  • textile glue (for hair)
  • cardboard pieces or anything else you can use for extra support in the soles of doll’s shoes.
  • Old pencils or wire (for extra support inside the legs)

Work in continuous rounds unless specified different. Try to make tough and firm stitches. Stuff firm!

When worked in DK yarn and 2 mm hook, finished doll measures 20 cm (7.9 inches)

Abbreviations used:

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

blo – back loop only

bpsc – back post single crochet

R – round/row

inc – increase (make 2 stitches in one stitch)

dec – decrease (make 1 stitch out of 2 stitches)

** repeat what in between by X times that follow right after

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBB

Pattern instructions:

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R8 to R13 sc42 sts (each round)

if you are using safety eyes, your eyes will come in the middle of these two rounds (R13-R14). Make sure to mark the middle of the face (round below you will embroider tiny doll’s nose around 2-3 horizontal stitches). Leave 4-5 stitches between eyes.

R14 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)

R15 to R17 sc54 sts (each round)

R18 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)

R19 sc48 sts

R20 *dec1, sc4 * x8 (40 sts)

R21 *dec1, sc2 * x10 (30 sts)

R22 *dec1, sc1 * x10 (20 sts)

start stuffing. Stuff the head nice and firm

R23 *dec2, sc1 * x4 (12 sts)

tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose and to do face sculpting if desired. Finish stuffing.

On how to needle sculpt doll’s face you can find here.

Legs (make 2)

ch6

we will work around the chain in order to create oval shape for the foot.

R1 sc4, 3sc in the last chain stitch, continue working around the chain, sc3, 2sc in the last chain st (12 sts)

R2 inc1, sc3, inc 3 sts, sc3, inc 2 sts (18 sts)

R3 sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc1, inc1, sc4, inc1, sc1, inc1 (24 sts)

R4 sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc2, inc1, sc5, inc1, sc2, inc1 (30 sts)

R5 working back post single crochet, sc30 (30 sts)

R6 to R8 sc30 (each round)

Using some scrap cardboard, create the sole for the shoe and place it inside. For additional firmness you can glue it to inside, on the bottom of the shoe.

R9 sc6, *dec1, sc2 * x4, dec1, sc6 (25 sts)

R10 sc4, *dec1, sc1 * x5 dec1, sc4 (19 sts)

R11 sc8, dec1, sc9 (18 sts)

R12 BLO 18 sts

R13 to R21 sc18 sts (each round)

stuff the bottom of the shoe very firm.

R22 BLO this round dec9 sts (9 sts)

R23 to R34 sc9 sts (each round)

Tie off. Before stuffing decide if extra support (wire or similar) will be added. Measure, cut and add together with stuffing.

Body

R1 Bring both legs together. Both pointing same direction. Mark three stitches on each leg, those that you will touching each other when legs brought together.

mark stitches

Slip stitch to the first stitch facing you (on either one of the legs, or either side), and chain 3 sts.

sl st, ch3, sl st to opposite leg

Bring the next leg close and slip stitch to the opposite stitch on the second leg, one that is closest and matching stitch you started the chain.

Slip stitch to the next stitch of the same leg. Chain one stitch, turn your work and single crochet 3 stitches on the chain you previously made).

Once done with 3sc, slip stitch to the middle stitch on the first leg. Slip stitch to the last stitch, chain 1 st, turn.

One more time, make 3 single crochet stitches (2 row on your chain, connecting legs).

Slip stitch to the remaining, third stitch on the opposite leg, chain one turn.

What we just did, we increased the gap between the legs, but we haven’t change the stitch count.

3 rows of 3 stitches added between legs

Now, stitch around making 18 stitches. (3 over space between legs, 6sc one leg, 3 space between legs, 6 sc second leg) (18 sts)

R1 of the body, both legs connected

R2 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)

T7 *inc1, sc7 * x6 (54 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc8 * x6 (60 sts)

R9-R12 sc60 sts (each round)

R13 blo 60 sc

R14-R15 sc60 sts (each round)

R16 *dec1, sc8 * x6 (54 sts)

R17 sc 54 sts

R19 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)

R20 sc48 sts

R21 *dec1, sc6 * x6 (42 sts)

R22 sc42 sts

R23 *dec1, sc5 * x6 (36 sts)

R24 sc36 sts

R25 *dec1, sc4 * x6 (30 sts)

R26 sc30 sts

R27 *dec1, sc3 * x6 (24 sts)

begin stuffing and continue as you go. Stuff the body as firm as you can.

R28 sc24

R29 *dec1, sc2 * x6 (18 sts)

R30 sc18

R31 *dec1, sc1 * x6 (12 sts)

R32 sc12 sts

finish stuffing the body, tie off leaving long end for sewing body to the head later.

Arms (make 2)

thumb (make thumb before starting the mitten)

R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)

R2-R3 sc5

tie off

mittens

R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)

R2 inc5 (10 sts)

R3-R4 sc10

R5 bring thumb, start stitching on the thumb first, sc5, continue stitching the mitten, sc10 (15 sts)

R6 blo sc15

R7-R10 sc15

From round 11 to round 20 decrease 1 each round. Stuff the arm as you go. Leave the top of the arm empty or stuffed very light.

R11 will make 14 sts

R12 13 sts

R13 12 sts

R14 11 sts

R15 10 sts

R17 9 sts

R18 8 sts

R19 7 sts

R20 6 sts

Tie off leaving long end for sewing arm to the body.

Here is how your doll should look before sewing her upwinter doll before sewing the parts togetherHair

starting from the magic ring

Each chain we make (4 of them) will start and return to this magic ring. Do not close the ring until the hair is done completely.

*sc1 in magic ring, ch31 – starting from the second chain stitch inc20, sc10* x4

R1 sc5 sts in magic ring, ch1, turn

R2 inc5 (10 sts) ch1, turn

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn

R7-R12 sc30 each row (ch1 and turn)

R13 *ch21, starting from second chain from the hook inc20, slip stitch to the next st, sc to next st* repeat until you make 15 curls.

Tie off. Close the magic ring. Hide ends.

Glue the hair to the head. Arrange fringes the way you like them to be.

Hat

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)

R9 blo48 sts

R10-R13 sc 48 sts

Fuzzy edgings:

        • dress
        • boots
        • hat
        • sleeves

Edgings can be done many ways.

  1. Crochet fuzzy ends directly on doll

I used mixture of mohair and acrylic yarn (that I brushed later), and crocheted it directly to doll, using front loops we left free on some rounds.

If you are going to do this, make sure yarn is similar weight to yarn you made your doll with, so your stitches don’t stretch to much being too small or they don’t end up bulky and much heavier than coat or hat or boots.

My yarn was much thinner and lighter that cotton I used for the doll, so I worked with two treads to reach desired thickness. I crocheted directly on the doll, making same stitch count of those front loops left and stitched each piece for 5 rounds. Brushed after I was finished.

2. Crochet stripes and sew them on the doll later

What you can do instead is to make stripes. Use the width of those 5 rounds we left on top of the boots, hat or sleeves.

Make the chain, measure it so the length fits your piece all around and make few rounds with single crochet stitch until you reach the width that suits your piece. If you are going to brush it. Brush it now, before sewing it on the doll. Then sew the stripe using front loops as your guide to position them evenly and sew nicely.

Using this method, what will be the easiest one for many of you, you can add any yarn you have available.

  1. Use scraps and pieces of wool leftovers (you can add them with glue or you can felt them on)
  2. Use scraps and pieces of some fuzzy fabrics you have

Suggestion: add the fuzzy yarn to your doll before sewing the parts together and if possible brush them before sewing as well. On the photo below you can see I brushed arms. Believe me that brushing legs was difficult with both of them stuffed firm and connected to the body. Try to avoid my mistake and brush legs before making body.

Winter Doll - AmigurumiBB

And that is it! Your Winter Doll is done. Hope you will enjoy this pattern and this Christmas surprise someone with one of these little cuties. For any help or questions you might have regarding this pattern, please feel free to contact me.

Winter Dolls - AmigurumiBBWishing you all wonderful rest of the week! See you soon with something new! 

Vanja

Posted on

Voodoo anyone?

It is time when most of us are preparing for the end of the month and Halloween. Time of pumpkins and bats, ghosts and walking skeletons; flying witches and black cats. For those brave enough to try something more, I have created voodoo dolls 🙂

Not just plain and simple voodoo dolls! These are very special! They are lovable, huggable, kissable, simple irresistible voodoo dolls that will melt your heart on first sight. And above all they are dolls with feelings, so please take it easy when using pins on them!

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These simple voodoo dolls are simple and easy to make and will make great addition to your doll collection or as fun companion for your little ones.

Materials needed to make your voodoo doll:

  • any yarn of of your choice (any color and any weight), in addition to basic yarn for yoru doll you will need scraps of different color yarns to sew the parts together, scraps for hair, and some black for eyes and stitches lips
  • crochet hook to go well with your yarn (usually size or size and a half smaller from what yarn recommendation is)
  • darning needle or any other needle that will make your sewing easy
  • stuffing of your choice

Abbreviations:

In the pattern US terminology is used

St(s) – stitches

Ch – chain stitch

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet stitch

Inc – increasing stitch (two stitches made in one stitch)

Dec – decreasing stitch (one stitch made out of two stitches – invisible decrease used in the pattern)

Pop-corn – pop corn stitch used to make a thumb on dolls hands (I used pop corn stitch made out f three double crochet stitches; you can also use cluster stitch here-whichever you find easier to make this little thumb popping out, will be fine).

R – round or row

Doll is made in continuous rounds.

Body with the opening n front (if you decide to make one) has part with 10 rows (instead of continuous rounds), that will be indicated under open body part of the pattern given below.

For any questions, please feel free to contact me.

Voodoo Dolls by AmigurumiBB

Voodoo doll pattern

Voodoo doll's head

Head

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)

R10-R19 sc54

R20 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)

R22 sc48

R23 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R24 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R25 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

Fasten off. Stuff the head nice and firm.

Bodyvoodoo doll's body

(closed body)

R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)

R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)

R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)

R8 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)

R9-R18 sc48

R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R20 sc 40

R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R22 sc30

R23 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R24sc20

Fasten off and stuff the body.

Open type body (will try to add photo, describing the whole process on how it is done soon)

Repeat R1 to R9 as from the above, for the closed body type

R10 ch1, turn (starting to work rows here (each row finish with ch1 and turn) sc47 (47 sts)

R11-R19 sc47

As you have finished R19, ch1 and single crochet the side of rows. When reaching bottom or single crochet left on R9 slip stitch that one and continue single crocheting other side of your rows.

R20 ch1, do not turn but continue crocheting as you would in any other round. Sc47, ch1 and sl st to chain made when starting this round. From now on continue working in spiral as we sis with the bottom part of the body.

R21 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)

R22 sc40

R23 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)

R25 sc30

R26 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)

R27 sc20

Fasten off , hide end, On the opening we made at the belly part you can lace as lacing the shoe, or you can sew little zipper on. You can add one or two buttons to it. My idea was making little treasures keeping doll out of one of my voodoos and think children will like this idea too.

Arms (make2)voodoo doll's arms

R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)
R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4-R5 sc18

R6 pop-corn 1st sts, sc17 (18 sts)

R7-R8 sc18

R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R10-R24 sc12

Fasten off, hide end. Stuff the arm nicely, leaving top part of the arm empty or stuffed very light (so the arms can fall over the body nice way).

Legs (make2)voodoo doll's legs

R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)

R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)

R5 bpsc24

R6 sc24

R7 dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc16 (21 sts)

R8 dec3, sc15 (18 sts)

R9-18 sc18

R19 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)

R20 sc12

Fasten off hide end

Before sewing the parts together you might want to add some decorative stitches on the legs and arms. Use colors of your choice. When it comes to decorating your voodoo doll it has to be something you like or your children would like you to add. If your children are big enough you can add buttons, beads, sequins…. The rule, less is more is not a rule to follow for your voodoo, so go crazy on this one

When adding hair to your dolls:

For boy I added few strings of yarn I attached on the very first round of the head. For the girls used two strings I waved around several stitches and then tided them together in little pig tails.

For your girl dolls you can ad braids instead or make tassels, or one bigger pony tail on top or back of the head.

Eye(s):

If you decide to crochet your eye(s) they are done this simple way:

R1 sc6 in magic ring

R2 inc6 (12 sts)

Tie off leaving long end for sewing (when making eye lashes sew the eye as the eye lashes are holding it)

With white yarn embroider two tiny little dots to make doll’s eye(s) alive.

On girl voodoo the heart I made on her chest was done using pattern you can find here. Pattern was created by Lucy from Attic24. It is very easy and beautiful tiny heart to make.

At the end, let me tell you about staining the doll, or making it look dirty as I did with two of my voodoo dolls.

I crocheted them in white cotton yarn and I used 2,5 mm hook for boy and 2 mm hook for girl. Liked the idea on making them white, but didn’t like the idea on keeping them so clean and so new

I took some crayons (oil based) that I applied directly on doll. Then with my fingers I tried to smudge the crayon I applied as much as I could all around the toy.

Voodoo boy by AmigurumiBB

Boy was the first one I made and he ended up too dirty (also the brown I used was too dark and I am not 100% satisfied with the look, but still think both are better than very clean white).

Voodoo gilr by AmigurumiBB

With girl was little bit more careful and she ended up better.

I suggest you try it. Dirty little voodoo it looks great and it is fun to do!

Voodoo dolls by AmigurumiBB

Wishing you all lots of fun making your little voodoo dolls. Hope they bring you lots of joy! And remember to go easy on them when using pins as voodoo dolls have feelings too 😀

Voodoo dolls by AmigurumiBB

Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and blessed weekend to come.

Vanja

Posted on

It’s Beer Time!!!! Happy OctoberFest!

This year I decided to celebrate the October Fest and drink a mug of beer accompanied with two of my little dolls. Last two months have been rather stressful and fun these two little ones brought in just few days is priceless!

I am still smiling and here is why:

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Meet Helga and Hans! They are both German, come form Munich and are OctoberFest fans!

Both dolls are made using FairyDoll’s pattern. Slight changes have been made on arms length, hair. Hans has more changes than Helga, because of the trousers but both of the patterns are easy and pretty fast to do. Both are must have for your collection. Both of the patterns are finished and written for you to start working and making your very own Helga and Hans.

Here are some closeups of both dolls:

DSC_0017DSC_0016DSC_0015You have to admit that Hans is very handsome fellow! His mustaches and great looking, very fashionable haircut are absolutely irresistible! 😀

While making this pattern, as I wanted to create real OctoberFest spirit. OctoberFest can’t be OctoberFest without beer and pretzels (but pretzel pattern I forgot, sorry), that is why I tried to make arms moveable a little in order for them to hold the mugs.

Dolls are small (15 cm high), this joining the arms is very simple and works fine on such small dolls. I have prepared little photo tutorial for you as well. In order to see and have better view, ope the photo and zoom in (for better text reading). Use this photo together with the pattern for better understanding how to add arms to your dolls.

Attaching arms on small dollsPattern for the dolls you can find here: Helga and Hans

I hope I haven’t made too many mistakes while writing and editing the pattern, but if such occur, please feel free to write and ask for help.

DSC_0012Hope you have enjoyed seeing these two little ones! Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and blessed weekend ahead!

Cheers from

Helga, Hans and Vanja

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