Hope all had wonderful Christmas and fun and fabulous New Year’s eve party 🙂
I have to say I am glad holidays and all the madness they bring are behind me and can return to everyday routine (little less crazy)!
I don’t wish to start my first post in this year with the retrospective on what I have accomplished (or failed) last year but wish to focus on year that is ahead of me and all of you who follow this blog and push me each week to work harder in order to come with something new and tempting for all to try. All I can say, last year was fun and hope this one will be even more.
This year I am starting with online classes on how to create a crochet doll or toy and write the pattern. First one I will make with my Facebook group friends and ladies that are interested and waiting patiently for the past two months (for the holiday season to be done). This first class will start in week or two. I will try to keep you updated on the progress what is done. At the end of the class or maybe better say course, will show you the patterns and dolls girls came up with.
In the last two years I have received many mails asking me what brand of yarn I use for my toys and dolls. This year with each pattern I will offer you the yarn I worked with, for sale, through Etsy store. This way anyone who is interested in working with exact type of yarn will be able to find it and buy it online.
Regarding my patterns and posts on the blog, will continue to share my work in as many details and photos as possible. With each pattern will try to show you something new you can learn and use in your future work.
I am sure it will be fun!
Let us return to the topic of this post and Koalas! This year is starting with competition. I am not very competitive person but I decided to participate. I just wish I had more time to make panda family as well (this is one of the patterns I wish to make this year).
Amigurumipatterns.net has organized competition where everyone was invited to participate. Theme was animal parents and children. For that competition I made my favorite, koala bears. Mama and shy little baby koala.
As you all know World Amigurumi Exhibition is opened! Tiny bit of that wonderful, magical atmosphere I tried to bring to you through little video I made using the photos taken by Resobox team.
Hope you will enjoy as much as I am each and every time I look at these photos.
Feel free to click on the link that will lead you directly to the slideshow.
My intention was to make elf on the shelf but after some research I’ve done I didn’t really like them being mischief elves. I am more of happy and fun kind of person and having elves that might shave my eyebrows during the night are not the kind of elves I would keep around 😀
Furthermore, there really are some wonderful free Elf on the shelf crochet patterns available, and if you are really looking for one of them I am sure you have already started making some of them. If not, check the Raverly or Pinterest and get your free pattern soon.
For those that prefer nice house elves, that will bring you smiles and cheer your holiday season try making one of these little guys. Make them as colorful as possible. These are happy elves and love to be dresses in crazy and bright holiday colors.
Less talking and more working!
Pattern is pretty long so I better start on with it.
I tried to write as detailed as possible. Included as many photos as I could take. I know there will be some that will need more clarifications, so please do not hesitate to write and ask.
If I missed anything I apologize in advance, as well I am sorry for any flaws or mistakes that might got on the way. Let me know if you encounter them and will make correction a.s.a.p.
Christmas Elves
Materials needed:
Medium weight cotton yarn:
colors of your choice:
skin
green (in two shades)
white
red
yellow, brown or any other color for the hair
7 mm safety eyes
2 and 2,5 mm crochet hook (2,5 is used for the hat only)
red embroidery floss, 1 thread (for lips)
needles for sewing the parts together and mouth embroidery
textile glue (for the hair)
textile hardener (starch)
powder blush or oil based crayons to color the cheeks
Finished size: 24 cm / 9.5 inches
Gauge: 8 stitches by 8 rows in 1×1 inch (2,5 cm). Try to obtain the gauge when working head and body.
Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet stitch (yarn two times over the hook, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and draw through the stitch. Now having 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops . Yarn over and draw through remaining loops to finish the stitch.
pop corn – pop corn stitch (3dc worked in one stitch. Keep the last loop of each stitch on the hook. Slip stitch into 4 loops on the hook to finish the stitch. This stitch is used for making nose.)
fpsc – front post single crochet
R – row or round
* * – repeat what inside stars by number (x) following after
inc – increasing (2 stitches worked in 1 stitch)
dec – decreasing stitch (2 stitches worked together in order to create 1 stitch)
blo – work only the back loops of the stitch
flo – work only the front loops of the stitch
note:
if making doll with lots of stripes on legs, arms, or even the body and/or hat, try this to make color change less visible as possible.
Change color on the last stitch of the previous round (having two loops of one color on the hook, grab second color and draw through these loops to close the stitch).
Now slip stitch to the back loop of the next stitch.
Make single crochet in the same stitch where this slip stitch was made (now making the stitch through both loops-as you would usually do). Continue crocheting the round. When reaching the end and starting new round, skip the slip stitch.
Place eyes now. Use middle round between R14 and R15 leaving 6 stitches between. Make sure the nose comes in the round below them, centered between both eyes.
R20: sc x8, dec x3, sc x4, dec x3, sc x30 (48 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x10, dec x1, sc x22 (45 sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x9, dec x1, sc x21 (42 sts)
R23: *dec x1, sc x5* x6 (36 sts)
R24: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R25: *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R26: *dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
tie off, stuff the head nice and firm.
Arms
start working with flash color yarn
R1: sc x6 in magic ring
R2: inc x1, sc x1* x3 (9 sts)
R3: sc x9 sts
R4: inc x1, sc x2* x3 (12 sts)
R5: sc x12 sts
R6: dec x1, sc x2* x3 (9 sts)
stuff this part and continue stuffing as you go. Stuff arms light.
R7, R8, R9: sc x9 sts
change color to one you will make sleeves.
R10: blo sc x9 sts
R11: sc x9 sts
R12: blo sc x9 sts
R13, R14, R15: sc x9 sts
R16: sc8, inc x1 (10 sts)
R17 to R29: sc x10 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing the arms later.
Legs:
start with shoes (make 2)
R1 sc x4 in magic ring
R2, R3: inc x1, sc x1, dec x1 (4 sts)
R4: inc x1, sc x3 (5 sts)
R5: inc x1, sc x4 (6 sts)
R6: inc x1, sc x5 (7 sts)
R7: inc x1, sc x6 (8 sts)
R8: inc x1, sc x7 (9 sts)
R9: inc x1, sc x8 (10 sts)
R10: inc x1, sc x9 (11 sts)
R11: inc x1, sc x10 (12 sts)
R12: sc x12 sts
pull the left over yarn from forming magic ring and tie a knot inside the top of the shoe (make sure to direct the point where your last stitch of the last round is) to make the shoe tip keep desired form.
R13: ch1 and turn (work in rows) sc x10 sts
R14: ch1, turn, sc x10 sts
R15: ch1, turn, sc x3, dec x2, sc x3 (8 sts)
R16: ch1, turn, dec x1, sc x1, hdc x2, sc x1, dec x1 (6 sts)
R17: ch1 turn, dec x1, hdc x2, dec x1 (4 sts)
R18: ch1, turn, dec x2 (2 sts)
R19 ch1, turn, dec x1
R20: ch1, turn, sc x18, across the sides, front (2 sts left of R12) and back. (do not count ch1 as a stitch. We’ll skip this one on the next round)
R21: sc18
before continuing with edging around the shoe, you might want to add yarn for the leg. Slip stitch to one of the back loops of R21; *dec x1, sc x1* x6 making 12 sts round.
Now return to shoe.
R22: ch5, turn your work opposite direction from one you worked R21 (so the right side of the stitches made on chain are nice and visible) – starting from the second chain stitch, sl st x1, sc x1, hdc x1, dc x2 in the last chain stitch
skip 2 sts on R21 and slip stitch to front loop of the third st.
repeat: *ch5, sl st1, sc1, hdc1, dc2 in1 st, skip 2, sl st to third st* around (making 6 star points areound shoe). Slip stitch to the first front loop, ch1, turn
R23: sc to each of the front loops left on R22. Your work will look as *ch1, sc x2* repeated around.
Tie off, hide end.
Your shoe is done.
Here are few photos that might help you understand the shoe pattern little bit better.
Legs (x2)
working in one or multiple colors
R1: *dec x1, sc x1* x6 (12 sts) – made while working on shoe
stuff the legs as you go. Add little stuffing. Make legs nice and soft.
R2 to R31: sc x12 sts
tie off.
Flatten the top of the legs, right beneath the body and sew across. This will make your elf sit better.
Body
color of your choice
place legs side by side, both facing same direction.
R1: sl st to one of the inner stitches on one of the legs. Ch3, sc to opposite stitch of the second leg.
Once legs are connected with the chain single crochet around making total of 30 sts.
From the mails I get from many of you, connecting legs seems to be the nightmare to make. Here are few photos on how to connect legs with chain in between. Hope it’ll help!
R2: *inc x1, sc x4* x6 (36 sts)
R3: *inc x1, sc x5* x6 (42 sts)
R4 to R11: sc x42 sts
R12: blo sc x42 sts
R13: sc x42 sts
R14: *dec x1, scx5* xc6 (36 sts)
R15 to R17: sc x36 sts
R18: *dec x1, sc x4* x6 (30 sts)
R19 to R21: sc x30 sts
R22 *dec x1, sc x3* x6 (24 sts)
R23 to R25: sc x24 sts
change color to collar
R26 dec x1, sc x2* x6 (18 sts)
R27: blo sc x18 sts
change color to skin
R28: sc 18 sts
tie off leaving long end for sewing body and head together.
Stuff body nice and firm.
Lower shirt part added on boy’s body:
slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: sc x42 sts
R2: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R3, R4, R5: sc x48 sts
R6: *inc x1, sc x7* x6 (54 sts)
R7, R8, R9: sc x54 sts
R10: inc x1, sc x8* x6 (60 sts)
tie off hide end.
Skirt for girl:
slip stitch with the same color yarn used for the body, to one of front loops left on R12.
R1: *inc x1, sc x6* x6 (48 sts)
R2: inc x2, sc x6* x6 (60 sts)
R3: inc x4, sc x6* x6 (84 sts)
R4: inc x8, sc x6* x6 (120 sts)
R5 to R10 sc x120 sts
tie off and hide end.
Belt(s):
make a chain (I used 42 chain stitches for both dolls, but make sure to measure the length and add or decrease stitches accordingly.
To make belts look nice, work the loop you’ll find on the back side of the chain. It is one single loop, pointing up and standing in between two loops.
Look at the photo for more details.
Using this loop, your belt will look the same on the bottom and top.
For male elf I used single crochet and for girl I worked with half double crochet across the chain to create the belt. Use the stitch you like better.
Stitch across the chain and sew end around doll’s waist once done. You can sew across stitch or two on the body to secure the belt stays in place.
Belt bucket:
work in the magic ring
sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1, sc1, ch1, sc2, ch1
close the magic ring
Shape the square with your fingers pointing chains out.
Glue the belt bucket on the belt.
Bow:
work in the magic ring
ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1, ch3, dc4, ch3, sl st1
close the magic ring. Tie off but leave enough yarn to wrap around bows middle and for sewing later.
Hanging bow ends:
ch18, starting from the the 3rd chain st, hdc1, sl st next 13 sts, hdc last, work around chain to slip stitch to 1 st and finish nicely.
Hide ends in the back of the bow.
Tie this lower part on the back of up bow part and sew them or glue them on the belt.
Ears
R1: sc x10 in magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.
R2: ch1 turn, fpsc x6, sc x3, sl st x1, sl st to magic ring. Ch1, turn.
R3: skip 2slip stitches of the previous round, hdc4 to next st, sl st x2, sc x2, hdc x1, dc+htr to next st, make picot of 2 ch sts on htr, hrt+dc to the next st, skip one and sl st to last st. sl st to the base of the first stitch made on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing. Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.
R1: sc x10 in the magic ring
don’t close the ring completely. Leave it half opened for easier working.
R2: ch1, turn, sl st first st, sc x3, fpsc x6
ch1, turn
R3: sc to first st, dc+htr to next sts (make 2ch picot on htr), htr+dc to next st, hdc, sc x2, sl st x2, hdc x4 to next sts, sl st last st and base of the first st made on this side.
Tie off leaving long end for sewing.
Close the magic ring and shape the ear nice.
To make your ears nice, use fabric hardener (starch or sugar water). Model the ear while damp and let it dry completely.
Collars:
Boy elf collar:
working on the front loops of R27 of the body
sl st to one of front loop stitches,
*ch6, sl st1, sc1, hdc, dc x2, skip 2 sts and sl st to 3rd * repeat around
For extra touch and better look, sc around to all front loops left undone. (same as what we did on shoe).
*Ch1, sc2*… around
tie off hide ends inside the body
Girl collar:
R1: *inc x1, sc x2* x6 (24 sts)
R2: *sc1, hdc1, dc-picot-dc to one st, hdc1, sc1, sl st1* ….around (6 petals)
tie off hide ends
edgings on sleeves:
You can try variations.
For boy I used simple single crochet around top round and then attached back loop stitches just made with front loops left on the lower arm part using single crochet again
For girl. Started with single crochet and in the second round added 1 ch stitch between each stitch on the bottom line.
Hat:
Will give you the pattern for standard elven hat (light green one you can see on girl)
Work with 2,5 mm hook (if working with different size hooks than 2/2,5 use half size bigger hook from one you used to make the doll).
I started the hat from the bottom and crocheted to top. You can do either way. Important is to start stitches you can divide by 5 or 6 for easier counting.
On top, to make hat narrow and pointy, you can work 3-4 rounds. Middle part of the hat decrease every third round (example: having 42 sts one round -either after decreasing or increasing previous round, next two rounds sc same amount of stitches. In this case it would be 42. Following round either decrease or increase – depending if you started from bottom or top of the hat).
My hat started with ch45 (slip stitched last to first chain stitch to form the ring and continue in spiral).
R1 to R4: sc x45 sts
R5: dec x1, sc x7* x5 (40 sts)
R6, R7 : sc x40 sts
R8: dec x1, sc x6* x5 (35 sts)
R9, R10: sc x35 sts
R11: dec x1, sc x5* x5 (30 sts)
R12, R13: sc x30 sts
R14: dec x1, sc x4* x5 (25 sts)
R15, R16: sc x25 sts
R17: dec x1, sc x3* x5 (20 sts)
R18, R19: sc x20 sts
R20: dec x1, sc x2* x5 (15 sts)
R21, R22: sc x15 sts
R23: dec x1, sc x1* x5 (10 sts)
R24, R25: sc10 sts
R26: dec x5 (5 sts)
R27 to R30: sc5
tie off leaving long end for sewing. Thread the needle and close last round nicely. Hide the access yarn inside the hat.
After I finished with the hat and green yarn, used red to make the edging. First I single crocheted bottom line and in next round used reverse (crab) stitch all around.
If you’ve noticed, top of the head is little folded on the side. I achieved that by decreasing R20 and R24 repeatedly.
Instead of normal decrease dec1,sc2… I did dec5, sc remaining stitches.
I didn’t write it in the pattern, because to me it doesn’t look anything special. I think normal decrease, all around would look same way.
For the dark brown hat I don’t have the pattern but will try to describe what I did to get this nice shape.
Again started from the bottom. This time I made 50 stitches chain, slip stitched last to first and worked in rounds.
Same as previous hat. This one was divided by 5 for easier counting the stitches and rounds.
First 4 rounds are repeated 50 sts each round
then decreasing started; first was *dec1, sc8* x5, followed by two rounds of same stitch count, and second decrease was *dec1, sc7* x5 followed with two rounds of same stitch count again.
From this part on I made decreases on half of the hat only.
For example: if the round was 40 sts, I made those 5 decreases on half of the hat, or just over 20 stitches. Tried to count to apply them as evenly as possible on this half.
After decreasing round, followed 2 repeating rounds of the same stitch count.
This way I worked all the way it was possible to count and work decrease on the half of the hat.
Finished with 5sts, and repeated this 4 times before closing the last round.
Important is that decreases are at the same part of the hat. This way the hat will curl naturally. If I will have time I will try to write down exact pattern for this hat. It is really nice one.
I am also sure that many of you will be able to make such hat without my help.
Decrease on half of the hat evenly (every third round)! That is all the magic there is!
Bottom of the hat; slip stitched to first round. Single crocheted 50sts 3 times and 4th round finished with reverse (crab) stitch.
These 3x repeating and reverse stitch at the end made hat curl naturally at the bottom what added extra charm to this little pixie hat.
Hair:
Boy’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely
R1:
sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 17 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x15
repeat above 1 more time
sc1 to the magic ring, ch10 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 9
repeat above (ch10) three more times
repeat ch17 (from the start) two more times
sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn
R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn
R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
from next round do not chain1 but turn each round. Skip 1st stitch and make decrease (2nd and 3rd st). Make one decrease at the end of the row. Do not chain but turn and continue decreasing at beginning and end on each row, or until you reach 3 sts row count.
R13: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x25, dec x1 (27sts)
R14: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x23, dec x1 (25 sts)
R15: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x21, dec x1 (23 sts)
R16: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc, x19, dec x1 (21 sts)
R17 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x17, dec x1 (19 sts)
R18 (skip 1st st) dec s1, sc x15, dec x1 (17 sts)
R19: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x13, dec x1 (15 sts)
R20: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x11, dec x1 (13 sts)
R22 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x 9, dec x1 (11 sts)
R23: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x7, dec x1 (9 sts)
R24: (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x5, dec x1 (7 sts)
R25 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x3, dec x1 (5 sts)
R26 (skip 1st st) dec x1, sc x1, dec x1 (3 sts)
tie off.
Close the magic ring now.
Slip stitch to R13, ch4 – starting from the second chain hook, sl st3
repeat this from R13 one side all the way around side and bottom to R13 opposite side.
This will create little hairs on the back of the head. Try making them little longer if you’d like. Ch5 or 6 instead of 4. Will look even better than these short ones.
Glue the base of the hair first. Place on the head and pin all around. After hair is placed and pinned, arrange the hairs in front of doll’s face.
Two longer hairs place right in front of the ears and fringes arrange the way you like.
You can glue these hairs or sew them. Which way you prefer.
Back hairs, short ones done last, leave as they are. Loose and free. They will shape the head and give extra touch to your doll.
Girl’s hair
Start with magic ring but do not close it until hair is done completely
R1:
sc1 in magic ring and from this sc, ch 20 – sl st to the second chain stitch from the hook and sc x18
repeat above 1 more time
sc1 to the magic ring, ch12 – starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 10
repeat above (ch10) one more time
sc1 to magic ring, ch16, starting from the second chain stitch from the hook, slip stitch 15 sts
repeat ch 20 (from the start) two more times
sc5, ch1 turn (continue working in rows over these 5 stitches)
inc x5 (10 sts) ch1, turn
R2: *inc x1, sc x1* x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn
R3: *inc x1, sc x2* x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R4: *inc x1, sc x3* x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R5: *inc x1, sc x4* x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R6 to R12: sc x30 sts
From now on decrease x1 at start and end of the row. Ch1 and turn when starting new row.
R13: dec x1, sc x26, dec x1 (28 sts)
R14: dec x1, sc x24, dec x1 (26 sts)
R15: dec x1, sc x22, dec x1 (24 sts)
R16: dec x1, sc x20, dec x1 (22 sts)
R17: dec x1, sc x18, dec x1 (20 sts)
R18: dec x1, sc x16, dec x1 (18 sts)
R19: dec x1, sc x14, dec x1 (16 sts)
R20: dec x1, sc x12, dec x1 (14 sts)
R21: dec x1, sc x10, dec x1 (12 sts)
R22: dec x1, sc x8, dec x1 (10 sts)
tie off.
Slip stitch to side on R13; ch40 and sl st to next side stitch. Work this way on both sides of the hair.
From the photo you can see I worked only the sides. You can work all the way, including the bottom row of back of the hair, and even the upper rows. You can chain more stitches in order to create longer hair, or make shorter ones.
I added few photos of some hair styles that crossed my mind. Might give you an idea of what hair style to make for your doll.
And that is it! We’ve done it! 😀
I hope you will enjoy this pattern and the company of your own little elves when done. I wish they bring you lots of joy and happiness during holiday season.
…while my elves were coming to my house from far away North they met someone special on their journey. This little fellow was lonely and very sad staying all alone in distant frozen lands. My elves felt sorry for this little one and asked him to join them. He accepted invitation with great joy.
I accepted him with open arms and heart. When you’ll see him you’ll know why! 🙂
Here is preview of the pattern I am working on at the moment.
Christmas Elves
Few more details to finish and if all goes well, as planned will share the pattern in few days.
Finished size of these elves made in cotton DK and with 2 mm crochet hook is 24 cm (9.5 inches) -without hat. What is special and new in this pattern are two different hair styles you will learn.
Hope you like them so far! 🙂
See you in few days with the patter and more photos to show.
Clicking on the photo or the Resobox title you’ll go directly to official Resobox page where you will find all the details about exhibition, as well as names of amigurumi artists from around the world that are participating. From that page you can go and visit each artist page and check those you haven’t heard about yet. There are some pretty amazing amigurumi artists you don’t want to miss. Specially the Japanese ones!
I will also add the Facebook and Twitter pages for all of you that wish to stay informed on Resobox, amigurumi, artists and more for the next few months.
Receiving invitation to join the exhibition I found very flattering but also intimidated it was not place for me. I don’t find myself an artist. I simply love to crochet. to make dolls, toys…. Was double thinking about the whole idea. I hardly have any dolls at home. Well, I do but those are my precious ones and are not to be transported, exhibited and sold by any chance!
Most of the dolls I make while designing new patterns end up in the hands of my nieces, local children or anyone else who asks for them. And I like creating more than repeating same pattern and making same doll over and over. I think by now you all know that. I like to challenge myself and go beyond the limits one would say there are for simple crocheted dolls or toys. But that is what I love and what I am passionate about. Discovering, learning, creating…
After some thinking and thinking and more thinking decided to give it go. Accepted invitation to participate and decided to send 10-20 dolls. Even though most of my patterns are fast and easy, I knew I wouldn’t made it in time if I would try making different toys and dolls. BB dolls and BB boys would have been great choice, but my favorite of these little ones are Fairies. That was my choice! Making 10 to 20 little fairies and send them to exhibition.First 10 dolls I made pretty fast. Last 10 took me 15 days to finish. I really enjoyed making these little ones. Feel sad I had to pack them and send them to New York!
I took many photos of the last 10 fairies. Made this short slideshow to show you the little darlings.
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Now that Fairies are flying to New York, we can continue with Christmas patterns while there is still time! I already started to work on Elves and if all goes as planned will show you the dolls and share pattern next week.
Stay informed exploring the Rosebox links and all the artists and their works that are participating at World Amigurumi Exhibition!
Till the next week, wishing you all wonderful time.
It is never late to start preparing for the winter season and by season I mean Christmas! Have many ideas for new patterns this year and hope I will have time to make and share all of them with you.
Starting with my new Winter Dolls. Elf on the shelf and his mischief girlfriends are coming next and then if time, will show you little smiling snowflakes and this year’s additions to Christmas ornaments.
Let us start with little Winter Dolls!
Materials needed:
double knit cotton in desired colors (body, clothes, hair)
white yarn that fuzz well when brushed
2 mm crochet hook
pair of 5 mm round black beads or same size safety eyes
darning needle (for sewing the parts together)
stuffing of your choice
slicker brush
textile glue (for hair)
cardboard pieces or anything else you can use for extra support in the soles of doll’s shoes.
Old pencils or wire (for extra support inside the legs)
Work in continuous rounds unless specified different. Try to make tough and firm stitches. Stuff firm!
When worked in DK yarn and 2 mm hook, finished doll measures 20 cm (7.9 inches)
Abbreviations used:
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
blo – back loop only
bpsc – back post single crochet
R – round/row
inc – increase (make 2 stitches in one stitch)
dec – decrease (make 1 stitch out of 2 stitches)
** repeat what in between by X times that follow right after
Pattern instructions:
Head
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)
R8 to R13 sc42 sts (each round)
if you are using safety eyes, your eyes will come in the middle of these two rounds (R13-R14). Make sure to mark the middle of the face (round below you will embroider tiny doll’s nose around 2-3 horizontal stitches). Leave 4-5 stitches between eyes.
R14 inc12, sc30 (54 sts)
R15 to R17 sc54 sts (each round)
R18 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)
R19 sc48 sts
R20 *dec1, sc4 * x8 (40 sts)
R21 *dec1, sc2 * x10 (30 sts)
R22 *dec1, sc1 * x10 (20 sts)
start stuffing. Stuff the head nice and firm
R23 *dec2, sc1 * x4 (12 sts)
tie off leaving long end for sewing the nose and to do face sculpting if desired. Finish stuffing.
On how to needle sculpt doll’s face you can find here.
Legs (make 2)
ch6
we will work around the chain in order to create oval shape for the foot.
R1 sc4, 3sc in the last chain stitch, continue working around the chain, sc3, 2sc in the last chain st (12 sts)
R5 working back post single crochet, sc30 (30 sts)
R6 to R8 sc30 (each round)
Using some scrap cardboard, create the sole for the shoe and place it inside. For additional firmness you can glue it to inside, on the bottom of the shoe.
R9 sc6, *dec1, sc2 * x4, dec1, sc6 (25 sts)
R10 sc4, *dec1, sc1 * x5 dec1, sc4 (19 sts)
R11 sc8, dec1, sc9 (18 sts)
R12 BLO 18 sts
R13 to R21 sc18 sts (each round)
stuff the bottom of the shoe very firm.
R22 BLO this round dec9 sts (9 sts)
R23 to R34 sc9 sts (each round)
Tie off. Before stuffing decide if extra support (wire or similar) will be added. Measure, cut and add together with stuffing.
Body
R1 Bring both legs together. Both pointing same direction. Mark three stitches on each leg, those that you will touching each other when legs brought together.
Slip stitch to the first stitch facing you (on either one of the legs, or either side), and chain 3 sts.
Bring the next leg close and slip stitch to the opposite stitch on the second leg, one that is closest and matching stitch you started the chain.
Slip stitch to the next stitch of the same leg. Chain one stitch, turn your work and single crochet 3 stitches on the chain you previously made).
Once done with 3sc, slip stitch to the middle stitch on the first leg. Slip stitch to the last stitch, chain 1 st, turn.
One more time, make 3 single crochet stitches (2 row on your chain, connecting legs).
Slip stitch to the remaining, third stitch on the opposite leg, chain one turn.
What we just did, we increased the gap between the legs, but we haven’t change the stitch count.
Now, stitch around making 18 stitches. (3 over space between legs, 6sc one leg, 3 space between legs, 6 sc second leg) (18 sts)
R2 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)
T7 *inc1, sc7 * x6 (54 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc8 * x6 (60 sts)
R9-R12 sc60 sts (each round)
R13 blo 60 sc
R14-R15 sc60 sts (each round)
R16 *dec1, sc8 * x6 (54 sts)
R17 sc 54 sts
R19 *dec1, sc7 * x6 (48 sts)
R20 sc48 sts
R21 *dec1, sc6 * x6 (42 sts)
R22 sc42 sts
R23 *dec1, sc5 * x6 (36 sts)
R24 sc36 sts
R25 *dec1, sc4 * x6 (30 sts)
R26 sc30 sts
R27 *dec1, sc3 * x6 (24 sts)
begin stuffing and continue as you go. Stuff the body as firm as you can.
R28 sc24
R29 *dec1, sc2 * x6 (18 sts)
R30 sc18
R31 *dec1, sc1 * x6 (12 sts)
R32 sc12 sts
finish stuffing the body, tie off leaving long end for sewing body to the head later.
Arms (make 2)
thumb (make thumb before starting the mitten)
R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)
R2-R3 sc5
tie off
mittens
R1 sc5 in the magic ring (5 sts)
R2 inc5 (10 sts)
R3-R4 sc10
R5 bring thumb, start stitching on the thumb first, sc5, continue stitching the mitten, sc10 (15 sts)
R6 blo sc15
R7-R10 sc15
From round 11 to round 20 decrease 1 each round. Stuff the arm as you go. Leave the top of the arm empty or stuffed very light.
R11 will make 14 sts
R12 13 sts
R13 12 sts
R14 11 sts
R15 10 sts
R17 9 sts
R18 8 sts
R19 7 sts
R20 6 sts
Tie off leaving long end for sewing arm to the body.
Here is how your doll should look before sewing her upHair
starting from the magic ring
Each chain we make (4 of them) will start and return to this magic ring. Do not close the ring until the hair is done completely.
*sc1 in magic ring, ch31 – starting from the second chain stitch inc20, sc10* x4
R1 sc5 sts in magic ring, ch1, turn
R2 inc5 (10 sts) ch1, turn
R3 *inc1, sc1 * x5 (15 sts) ch1, turn
R4 *inc1, sc2 * x5 (20 sts) ch1, turn
R5 *inc1, sc3 * x5 (25 sts) ch1, turn
R6 *inc1, sc4 * x5 (30 sts) ch1, turn
R7-R12 sc30 each row (ch1 and turn)
R13 *ch21, starting from second chain from the hook inc20, slip stitch to the next st, sc to next st* repeat until you make 15 curls.
Tie off. Close the magic ring. Hide ends.
Glue the hair to the head. Arrange fringes the way you like them to be.
Hat
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1 * x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2 * x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3 * x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4 * x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5 * x6 (42 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc6 * x6 (48 sts)
R9 blo48 sts
R10-R13 sc 48 sts
Fuzzy edgings:
dress
boots
hat
sleeves
Edgings can be done many ways.
Crochet fuzzy ends directly on doll
I used mixture of mohair and acrylic yarn (that I brushed later), and crocheted it directly to doll, using front loops we left free on some rounds.
If you are going to do this, make sure yarn is similar weight to yarn you made your doll with, so your stitches don’t stretch to much being too small or they don’t end up bulky and much heavier than coat or hat or boots.
My yarn was much thinner and lighter that cotton I used for the doll, so I worked with two treads to reach desired thickness. I crocheted directly on the doll, making same stitch count of those front loops left and stitched each piece for 5 rounds. Brushed after I was finished.
2. Crochet stripes and sew them on the doll later
What you can do instead is to make stripes. Use the width of those 5 rounds we left on top of the boots, hat or sleeves.
Make the chain, measure it so the length fits your piece all around and make few rounds with single crochet stitch until you reach the width that suits your piece. If you are going to brush it. Brush it now, before sewing it on the doll. Then sew the stripe using front loops as your guide to position them evenly and sew nicely.
Using this method, what will be the easiest one for many of you, you can add any yarn you have available.
Use scraps and pieces of wool leftovers (you can add them with glue or you can felt them on)
Use scraps and pieces of some fuzzy fabrics you have
Suggestion: add the fuzzy yarn to your doll before sewing the parts together and if possible brush them before sewing as well. On the photo below you can see I brushed arms. Believe me that brushing legs was difficult with both of them stuffed firm and connected to the body. Try to avoid my mistake and brush legs before making body.
And that is it! Your Winter Doll is done. Hope you will enjoy this pattern and this Christmas surprise someone with one of these little cuties. For any help or questions you might have regarding this pattern, please feel free to contact me.
Wishing you all wonderful rest of the week! See you soon with something new!
It is time when most of us are preparing for the end of the month and Halloween. Time of pumpkins and bats, ghosts and walking skeletons; flying witches and black cats. For those brave enough to try something more, I have created voodoo dolls 🙂
Not just plain and simple voodoo dolls! These are very special! They are lovable, huggable, kissable, simple irresistible voodoo dolls that will melt your heart on first sight. And above all they are dolls with feelings, so please take it easy when using pins on them!
These simple voodoo dolls are simple and easy to make and will make great addition to your doll collection or as fun companion for your little ones.
Materials needed to make your voodoo doll:
any yarn of of your choice (any color and any weight), in addition to basic yarn for yoru doll you will need scraps of different color yarns to sew the parts together, scraps for hair, and some black for eyes and stitches lips
crochet hook to go well with your yarn (usually size or size and a half smaller from what yarn recommendation is)
darning needle or any other needle that will make your sewing easy
stuffing of your choice
Abbreviations:
In the pattern US terminology is used
St(s) – stitches
Ch – chain stitch
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet stitch
Inc – increasing stitch (two stitches made in one stitch)
Dec – decreasing stitch (one stitch made out of two stitches – invisible decrease used in the pattern)
Pop-corn – pop corn stitch used to make a thumb on dolls hands (I used pop corn stitch made out f three double crochet stitches; you can also use cluster stitch here-whichever you find easier to make this little thumb popping out, will be fine).
R – round or row
Doll is made in continuous rounds.
Body with the opening n front (if you decide to make one) has part with 10 rows (instead of continuous rounds), that will be indicated under open body part of the pattern given below.
For any questions, please feel free to contact me.
Voodoo doll pattern
Head
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R9 *inc1, sc7* x6 (54 sts)
R10-R19 sc54
R20 *dec1, sc7* x6 (48 sts)
R22 sc48
R23 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R24 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)
R25 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)
Fasten off. Stuff the head nice and firm.
Body
(closed body)
R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 *inc1, sc3* x6 (30 sts)
R6 *inc1, sc4* x6 (36 sts)
R7 *inc1, sc5* x6 (42 sts)
R8 *inc1, sc6* x6 (48 sts)
R9-R18 sc48
R19 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R20 sc 40
R21 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)
R22 sc30
R23 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)
R24sc20
Fasten off and stuff the body.
Open type body (will try to add photo, describing the whole process on how it is done soon)
Repeat R1 to R9 as from the above, for the closed body type
R10 ch1, turn (starting to work rows here (each row finish with ch1 and turn) sc47 (47 sts)
R11-R19 sc47
As you have finished R19, ch1 and single crochet the side of rows. When reaching bottom or single crochet left on R9 slip stitch that one and continue single crocheting other side of your rows.
R20 ch1, do not turn but continue crocheting as you would in any other round. Sc47, ch1 and sl st to chain made when starting this round. From now on continue working in spiral as we sis with the bottom part of the body.
R21 *dec1, sc4* x8 (40 sts)
R22 sc40
R23 *dec1, sc2* x10 (30 sts)
R25 sc30
R26 *dec1, sc1* x10 (20 sts)
R27 sc20
Fasten off , hide end, On the opening we made at the belly part you can lace as lacing the shoe, or you can sew little zipper on. You can add one or two buttons to it. My idea was making little treasures keeping doll out of one of my voodoos and think children will like this idea too.
Arms (make2)
R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4-R5 sc18
R6 pop-corn 1st sts, sc17 (18 sts)
R7-R8 sc18
R9 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R10-R24 sc12
Fasten off, hide end. Stuff the arm nicely, leaving top part of the arm empty or stuffed very light (so the arms can fall over the body nice way).
Legs (make2)
R1 sc6 in magic ring (6 sts)
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
R3 *inc1, sc1* x6 (18 sts)
R4 *inc1, sc2* x6 (24 sts)
R5 bpsc24
R6 sc24
R7 dec1, sc1, dec1, sc1, dec1, sc16 (21 sts)
R8 dec3, sc15 (18 sts)
R9-18 sc18
R19 *dec1, sc1* x6 (12 sts)
R20 sc12
Fasten off hide end
Before sewing the parts together you might want to add some decorative stitches on the legs and arms. Use colors of your choice. When it comes to decorating your voodoo doll it has to be something you like or your children would like you to add. If your children are big enough you can add buttons, beads, sequins…. The rule, less is more is not a rule to follow for your voodoo, so go crazy on this one
When adding hair to your dolls:
For boy I added few strings of yarn I attached on the very first round of the head. For the girls used two strings I waved around several stitches and then tided them together in little pig tails.
For your girl dolls you can ad braids instead or make tassels, or one bigger pony tail on top or back of the head.
Eye(s):
If you decide to crochet your eye(s) they are done this simple way:
R1 sc6 in magic ring
R2 inc6 (12 sts)
Tie off leaving long end for sewing (when making eye lashes sew the eye as the eye lashes are holding it)
With white yarn embroider two tiny little dots to make doll’s eye(s) alive.
On girl voodoo the heart I made on her chest was done using pattern you can find here. Pattern was created by Lucy from Attic24. It is very easy and beautiful tiny heart to make.
At the end, let me tell you about staining the doll, or making it look dirty as I did with two of my voodoo dolls.
I crocheted them in white cotton yarn and I used 2,5 mm hook for boy and 2 mm hook for girl. Liked the idea on making them white, but didn’t like the idea on keeping them so clean and so new
I took some crayons (oil based) that I applied directly on doll. Then with my fingers I tried to smudge the crayon I applied as much as I could all around the toy.
Boy was the first one I made and he ended up too dirty (also the brown I used was too dark and I am not 100% satisfied with the look, but still think both are better than very clean white).
With girl was little bit more careful and she ended up better.
I suggest you try it. Dirty little voodoo it looks great and it is fun to do!
Wishing you all lots of fun making your little voodoo dolls. Hope they bring you lots of joy! And remember to go easy on them when using pins as voodoo dolls have feelings too 😀
Wishing you all wonderful end of the week and blessed weekend to come.
This year I decided to celebrate the October Fest and drink a mug of beer accompanied with two of my little dolls. Last two months have been rather stressful and fun these two little ones brought in just few days is priceless!
I am still smiling and here is why:
Meet Helga and Hans! They are both German, come form Munich and are OctoberFest fans!
Both dolls are made using FairyDoll’s pattern. Slight changes have been made on arms length, hair. Hans has more changes than Helga, because of the trousers but both of the patterns are easy and pretty fast to do. Both are must have for your collection. Both of the patterns are finished and written for you to start working and making your very own Helga and Hans.
Here are some closeups of both dolls:
You have to admit that Hans is very handsome fellow! His mustaches and great looking, very fashionable haircut are absolutely irresistible! 😀
While making this pattern, as I wanted to create real OctoberFest spirit. OctoberFest can’t be OctoberFest without beer and pretzels (but pretzel pattern I forgot, sorry), that is why I tried to make arms moveable a little in order for them to hold the mugs.
Dolls are small (15 cm high), this joining the arms is very simple and works fine on such small dolls. I have prepared little photo tutorial for you as well. In order to see and have better view, ope the photo and zoom in (for better text reading). Use this photo together with the pattern for better understanding how to add arms to your dolls.
For all of you who asked about tutorial on how to make BB Boy’s hair I have made few photos with pattern instruction hoping it will help you understand the process and make your boys looking great.
This tutorial is made made based on the pattern for BB Boys you can find here and it is related on how to make straight hair for a boy doll (or on the photo below the brown haired boy)
For the curly hair boy’s hair you will start the same, but when creating “hair” instead of slip stitching the chains made, 2 single crochet stitches in one chain stitch will have to be made (in order to make each hair curly).
I have gathered all the photos in two collages, for easier following the pattern. On some photos I added text so you can see and compare you work with mine to be sure you are doing it right.
If you will have any comments or will need any additional help with how to crochet boy’s hair,please feel free to write and ask.
Here is tutorial on BB Boy’s hair (open the photos for better, detailed view):
Part one is on how to start and make base of the hair. Finishes with first chain for the first hair made.Part two shows how hairs are made all around and how the final hair piece will look like.
The final stage is adding hair to the head. My first BB Boy’s hair was sewed on the head, but every boy doll I have made since then I used glue to attach the hair to the head. For me it works the best and even after washing the doll the hair stays on. Textile glues are not expensive and I am sure you can find one in your local craft shop. I like to use glue when making dolls and toys. With glue I add hair, eyes and all tiny decorations on clothes, shoes… It really works great and I recommend it. If you prefer to sew the hair to the head, will work great as well. Will take you some time, with back stitch to sew each hair to the head but will look as good as glued.
Let us continue with adding the hair to the head.
Use pins to place and position the hair on the head nicely. Mark with pen or marker (on the head) where your hair will be (if you are not sure you will place it on the same spot after applying glue-mentioning it, because it sometimes happens to me too, so think ahead 🙂 ).
front of the headback of the headHair glued and pinned-waiting for glue to dry
And that is it! Easy as it looks. Attach the head to the body, add arms and your BB Boy is done.
Really hope this short tutorial will help many of you who weren’t sure and asked me for help. Looking forward to hear from you and off course to see photos of your dolls ass well.
With kind regards wishing you all blessed rest of the week.
